Chrysanthemum air compression effect is good.

Han Yuefen

First, cut

It is suitable for growth from June to July, and potted after growth, with one flower per plant, and the maintenance method is the same as that of the only chrysanthemum.

Second, high pressure

From July to September 20th, the chrysanthemum buds are basically colored, and the air pressure is appropriate at this time.

Mash moss and mud first, then peel off the outermost layer of chrysanthemum stem by 0.5 ~ 1 cm with a blade, and bind the prepared moss and mud together with a plastic film to tightly bind the wound.

Third, management.

Keeping the soil moist is the key to the air pressure management of chrysanthemum. After two or three days, observe the moss and soil in the plastic film. If it is dry, it needs to be watered to keep a certain temperature. It usually takes about 18 days to take root. After the long roots grow out, cut them off and plant them in a small pot in time, shade them for 2 ~ 3 days, and then enter the normal management.

After air compression, the height of chrysanthemum can be controlled at about 8 ~ 10 cm, and the flower diameter is 18 ~ 20 cm. Small and exquisite, exquisite and elegant, with a unique flavor.

Overall shape

Chrysanthemum has a variety of plastic methods: ① single chrysanthemum. The single flower is placed at the top of the single stem, and the top is not topped when cultivated, only the lateral buds and buds are removed at the right time. ② Chrysanthemum morifolium. Keep more than 3 to dozens of flower heads. 3 ~ 5 big chrysanthemums are also used for variety display; More than 5 flowers are mostly used for the arrangement of flower beds and flower borders or for scenery, composition, flower cutting, etc. Xiao Ju is usually used for flower beds and flower borders. 3 chrysanthemums. There are hundreds to thousands of flowers on a plant, and the crown width can reach more than 2 meters. There are many varieties of chrysanthemum with long internodes and easy branching, which are selected and cultivated by splitting, dividing plants or cutting. Management measures such as adequate fertilizer and water and coring should be taken during cultivation. Attractions often have separate exhibitions. 4 chrysanthemums. Cultivate chrysanthemums into an upright tower shape. Farmers in Xiao Ju use this root more. When chrysanthemum is grafted into a tower chrysanthemum, the main stem of the rootstock cannot be cut off, it grows one by one with the main stem, and then divides one by one on the side branches, making the whole plant tower-shaped. 5 cliff chrysanthemum. It was planted in Xiao Ju. The top is not cored, and the lateral branches at the base are repeatedly cored. The top is induced by long bamboo slices to grow in an arch shape, forming a tail shape with a wide back and a narrow back. When flowering, the flowerpot is placed high and the branches arch down, which is very interesting. 6 modeling chrysanthemums. Choose Chrysanthemum morifolium or Xiao Ju with long internodes and soft branches, cultivate it into multi-headed chrysanthemum, weave it into fonts or shapes of animals and buildings with iron wire or thin bamboo strips, and tie flowers on it to form a beautiful artistic image. ⑦ bonsai chrysanthemum. Taking Xiao Ju as the material, the bonsai production technology is applied to control the water quantity, and the old stems and branches are cultivated and the flowers of ancient trees are shaped by picking leaves, shaping or wrapping stems on dry stumps.

Yiju management

In the spring, the buds are still afraid of cold, and fertilizer is difficult to water;

In the rain festival, I was shocked and buried in the flower bed.

The spring equinox is sunny, the soil is moist, and the sowing is diligent;

From Tomb-Sweeping Day to Grain Rain, there are many raindrops after transplanting.

Miao Changdeng also stayed in the basin for a while; Long summer is the most suitable time;

Beware of crying rain, and cover the bamboo branches with a shed.

Small and full of beautiful scenery, it should be planned in time;

Pick high seedlings next to low seedlings and carefully grasp the leaves of insect stalks.

Huang Meiyu is thick in summer solstice, and it is a wet stool.

Mud-splash-proof leaf chaff protection, non-corrosive fibrous roots and fine soil sealing.

Little summer fever is crazy, and fertilization is always afraid of harm;

When the water in the pond is poured out through the water tank, we should wait for the cold while the morning is dark.

After picking the seedlings, beginning of autumn presented them with many branches, and Gao Shuang welcomed them.

It is advisable to support fine bamboo at the place, and hook branches with hemp poles.

See the pistil head in the Millennium season, and move sideways to stay;

Thick colored flowers have no magic, as long as the golden juice of the autumnal equinox is cast.

Pay attention to the desire to cultivate rewards, and the cold dew is open and the garden is full of fragrance;

First, first frost arranged a reward at the bottom of the eaves to praise the seal by imitating the color.

Avoid freezing, bask in the sun, and water the fertilizer. The cultivation of the three subjects should not be bad.

Four main points of chrysanthemum watering

Hu ailian

Determine the watering amount according to different growth stages. At the beginning of April, chrysanthemum and Artemisia annua seedlings grafted with chrysanthemum were transplanted from pots to vats, and watered once, but not at the seedling stage. When Artemisia seedlings resumed normal growth, grafting began in mid-April, and normal watering management was carried out. But at this time, the root system is underdeveloped, and the growth of the aboveground part is not large, so it can be watered once every two or three days. May-July is the peak period of chrysanthemum and chrysanthemum grafting. During this period, the underground root system gradually developed, the growth of grafted chrysanthemum seedlings on the ground gradually increased, and the water demand also increased. Water them every day, and fully water them on sunny days. From the end of July to the end of September, when grafting is finished, chrysanthemum and Chrysanthemum morifolium enter flower bud differentiation and bud pregnancy from the vigorous growth period of chrysanthemum seedlings. At this stage, the water demand is large, and the climate is hot, the sunshine is long and the transpiration is fast, so it needs to be watered twice a day. After 65438+ 10 in June, all the buds formed and gradually entered the full bloom stage. Although the weather is getting colder and colder, water should be poured once a day.

According to the weather in different seasons, determine the amount and time of watering. In winter and spring, artemisia seedlings should be watered less because of the low temperature and low water consumption. The watering time should be from 9 am to 3 pm. High temperature in summer, long sunshine and dry climate in autumn. The grafting and growth of chrysanthemum and chrysanthemum are in summer and autumn. So it consumes a lot of water and is fast, so it needs to be watered more and watered permeable. The watering time should be arranged in the morning and evening. Chrysanthemums like to be wet, but they are not allowed to accumulate water, so are grafted chrysanthemums and chrysanthemum morifolium. If the soil in the bucket is kept too wet for a long time in the rainy season, the root system will suffocate and rot due to lack of oxygen, so it is necessary to drain the accumulated water in time to prevent the side bucket from getting wet. There are short-term showers or thunderstorms in summer and autumn, and the rainfall is very small, often only wet topsoil. At this point, it is still necessary to pour water in time. In the middle and late stage of chrysanthemum and chrysanthemum morifolium cultivation, because of their large plant types and vigorous growth, they need to consume a lot of water even on cloudy days, so they should pay attention to observation and water them in time. After a long rain, it suddenly cleared up. Although the soil in the bucket of Chrysanthemum morifolium and Chrysanthemum morifolium is very wet, the branches and leaves will wither or shrink due to lack of water. This is because it rains for a long time, the soil is too wet, and the absorption function of roots will be weakened. Once exposed to the sun, the water consumption of branches and leaves will increase, leading to an unbalanced state in which water cannot make ends meet. At this time, you must not water the chrysanthemum and the chrysanthemum bucket, but let it gradually recover.

Tanks of chrysanthemum and Chrysanthemum morifolium need enough water, but the more water, the better, not too wet, not half dry and half wet. We should master the principle of watering when we are dry, not watering when we are not dry, and pouring enough water into 1000 holes. Dry penetration refers to the surface soil, not the whole bucket of soil, and irrigation refers to the water penetrating into the bottom of the bucket, and the water flowing out from the bottom of the bucket is zero. In summer and autumn, each barrel of Chrysanthemum morifolium and Chrysanthemum morifolium must be watered with a plastic bucket and a bucket of water (15 kg of water). In the hot, hot and dry climate, two plastic buckets of water (30 kg of water) must be poured every morning and evening to meet the water demand of one bucket of chrysanthemum or chrysanthemum morifolium.

When chrysanthemum and chrysanthemum are cultivated in barrels, the barrels are large and deep, and it is forbidden to water them "half-water", that is, only the topsoil is watered when watering, while the roots in the deep soil layer are still in a dry state. In the past, it will "cause the roots of water shortage to die, and the whole chrysanthemum and chrysanthemum will wither or even die." In case of improper watering, drought and dehydration, and withered branches and leaves, it is best to water twice. After the first watering, fully water it after 2 to 3 hours.

Pay attention to water temperature, rain, river water and pond water. Well water contains many impurities, so it is best not to use it. Tap water is common, but it contains a lot of disinfectant, so it is best to store it for one or two days before using it.

Water temperature can't be ignored when watering in summer. The temperature is high in summer, so is the soil temperature. So to prevent the water temperature from being too low, it is advisable to water it in the morning and evening. At this time, there is little difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature, so try to use the water stored in the pool or water tank to prevent the soil temperature from suddenly dropping during watering and causing damage to the system.

How to keep the color of chrysanthemum

Bright color is an important aspect of chrysanthemum quality, and the color of chrysanthemum is influenced by temperature, sunshine, PH value and inorganic salts.

The effect of temperature on color is because the pigment of anthocyanin system changes under the influence of different temperatures. The color of autumn chrysanthemum cultivated in cold areas is brighter than that cultivated in warm areas, so it is a phenomenon that the color of autumn chrysanthemum becomes lighter in short-day treatment and blooms in high temperature season in advance. However, the long sunshine treatment delayed the flowering in cold season, and the color was brighter than that in autumn. Therefore, in order to keep the color of chrysanthemum, the temperature should be reduced from bud formation to flowering.

Chromogen is the source of anthocyanin, which is the main pigment of flowers. It is generated when the light is strong, but it is not suitable for generation under astigmatism. Therefore, some dark-colored varieties are cultivated in the open field with bright colors, while dark-colored varieties will gradually fade when they are moved indoors for a long time, because strong light can promote the formation of anthocyanins, while shading can inhibit the formation of anthocyanins. However, green chrysanthemum varieties, such as green peony, Lv Yun and so on. When the bud is about to bloom, it can keep delicate and bright green and enhance the ornamental effect.

This paper introduces several methods to keep the bright color of chrysanthemum:

First, when the buds of green flowers are to be released, they should be less exposed to the sun and watered with 0.2% ferrous sulfate and 2% vinegar instead of phosphate fertilizer.

Second, when white flower varieties are in bud, they should be less exposed to the sun and watered with 0.3% ~ 0.5% clarified lime water.

Three, yellow flower varieties in bud, should be more sunshine, 0.2% ~ 0.5% sulfur water.

Four, safflower varieties in the germination stage, should be more sunshine, at the same time, the application of 0.5% ammonium nitrate or urea, less potassium fertilizer.

Five, pink flower varieties in the germination stage, should be more sunshine, at the same time 1% ~ 3% calcium superphosphate.

Six, purple varieties in the bud, should be more sunshine, at the same time, the application of 0.3% ~ 0.5% alum water.

Through these treatments, the chrysanthemum will be more bright and shiny after opening, and its ornamental value will be improved.

Four methods to prevent chrysanthemum from falling leaves and yellow leaves

First, the correct choice of soil. Chrysanthemum likes fertile, permeable and acidic soil. When the PH value is 7.5, it will easily lead to defoliation or yellowing of the whole plant, and humus soil is most suitable for planting chrysanthemum.

Second, water it in time. If chrysanthemum is not seriously short of water, plants have life-saving instinct. Under the condition of water shortage, the lower leaves naturally wither, reducing water loss.

Third, foliar fertilization. Spraying two thousandths of urea solution on the leaves once a week in September can make the leaves firm, dark green and plump.

Fourth, prevent soil from splashing on the blade. It is best to put some small things like tiles, gravel or eggshells on the surface of chrysanthemum pots.

breeding method

(1) asexual reproduction

Chrysanthemums usually reproduce asexually in common cultivation. Asexual reproduction is a method to regenerate new organisms by using any part of plants (such as roots, stems, leaves, flowers, etc.). ) By cutting, plant division, layering, grafting and tissue culture, the excellent varieties can be maintained. The asexual propagation of chrysanthemum must first select good plants and strengthen maintenance, so as to provide high-quality propagation materials.

1. Selection and maintenance of seed plants

In order to prevent variety degradation and cultivate excellent seedlings, it is necessary to strictly select and carefully maintain chrysanthemum seeds and select enough seeds according to the predetermined plan.

(1) Selection of seed plants: In the blooming season of chrysanthemum, select a disease-free chrysanthemum plant with pure variety, strong growth and characteristics of this variety as the seed plant, insert the mark and number, and make records.

(2) Maintenance of seed plants: after the seed plants bloom, leave about 10 cm at the base to cut off the upper residual plants, remove the residual branches and dead leaves, move the pot forward over the winter and cut off the tapetum fibrous roots growing along the wall of the pot, keep part of the host soil, and spray carbendazim evenly. If there are residual aphids, spray pyrethroids to control aphids. Then, according to the variety number, plant it in the high ridge with Gao Qian terrain and sunny lee. When it is particularly cold, you can simply cover it with straw and straw to prevent colds. For example, if the cultivation site is small or the family raises flowers, they can spend the winter in the original pot, and rare varieties and varieties with poor cold tolerance can be moved indoors or in the greenhouse.

In winter, the ratoon of chrysanthemum seeds needs less water, so it is not necessary to water more, as long as the soil is kept properly moist. Seed plants should be fully exposed to natural low temperature to promote the growth of foot buds and improve the quality of cuttings. In winter and spring, the top of underground buds of perennial roots gradually unearthed and sprouted foot buds, so that foot buds could grow sturdily. More dry or liquid fertilizers should be applied as appropriate. Weak buds that grow too densely should be thinned out in time. The germinated foot buds should not be directly used as cuttings or scions. Because the shoots of foot buds grow too thick and hollow, if they are used as cuttings, it is often difficult to grow seedlings or grow poorly after cutting. If it is used for cultivation and cut down prematurely, it will easily produce willow leaves and rosette branches, which will bring difficulties to future maintenance and management. In March, the temperature gradually increased and the growth of foot buds accelerated. When the buds grow to a height of about 20 cm, they can be picked. Foot buds that germinate late can't be picked until they grow up, and the picked buds are mostly discarded. However, in the case of insufficient provenance, in order to expand propagation, it can be used as a small mother plant after cutting, that is, after cutting into seedlings, the core can be picked to promote the early development of lateral branches, and then cutting can be used to expand propagation coefficient.

After the foot buds of seed plants are centered, the lateral buds sprouting from leaf axils gradually grow into tender buds, which can be picked as cuttings or grafted scions. In mass propagation, ears can be picked repeatedly. However, more than 2 leaves must be left at the base of the lateral branches each time. The first and second segments of the lateral branches of some varieties are very long. If we don't observe carefully, we will mistakenly think that there are long internodes when cutting, but in fact there are no leaves at the base, so that new lateral branches can't germinate.

In order to ensure that the cuttings are tender, it is necessary to keep coring, that is, the lateral branches grow to a certain extent, and coring is carried out before natural branching occurs. You don't need to cut it for the time being, but you should also pick the core or cut it short regularly. The appropriate time for coring is to predict when ear picking is needed next time. How many days will it take? It depends on the growth, weather and maintenance management level of chrysanthemum plants. Under good environmental conditions, the ear can be picked again 20-25 days after coring.

Spray pesticides before each harvest to prevent pests and diseases. In order to obtain strong cuttings or scions, topdressing should be done in time, and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.2% urea should be sprayed after coring. Topdressing can be done once every 10- 15 days. Top dressing should be balanced and moderate, and nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much to avoid excessive fertilization, otherwise the cuttings (scions) are too soft and easy to rot after cutting. Fertilization should be stopped one week before cutting and water should be controlled properly.

2. Asexual reproduction method

(1) Cutting method: Cutting is a propagation method of cutting off a part of the vegetative organs of the mother plant, making use of its function or regeneration ability to make it take root and sprout under suitable environmental conditions and gradually grow into new plants. This method is simple, fast rooting and high survival rate. It is the main breeding mode of chrysanthemum.

There are two kinds of cutting propagation: bud cutting and branch cutting.

① Bud cutting: foot bud cutting is adopted in autumn and winter. This method is generally used for the introduction and cultivation of chrysanthemum. It is also used for the cultivation of single-branch chrysanthemum in the north. From the budding of autumn chrysanthemum to the following spring, the underground stems of chrysanthemum plants germinated and unearthed one after another. When it was first unearthed, it was a bud whose leaves had not been released, which was called a bouquet. Later, the leaves gradually developed into big buds. After cutting, the buds take root quickly and survive easily. As the foot buds of cuttings, it is better to choose the first generation of foot buds with full head, neat internodes and germination in late autumn and early winter. Such foot buds grow healthily, have strong vitality and are not easy to degenerate. However, the foot buds germinated in early spring may be underground stems of new branches in autumn, and the second and third generation foot buds are weak and easy to degenerate, which is not suitable for cutting.

If it is introduction and propagation, it is best to carry out it at flowering stage. At this time, the morphological characteristics of varieties can be observed for easy selection. However, there are not many foot buds sprouting at this time, especially those with weak growth potential, which will bring difficulties to introduction.

When digging the foot bud, you can insert the knife into the soil along one side of the foot bud, cut off the base and take it out. The dug foot buds had better be cut at once. If you want to carry it, you should pay attention to moisturizing to prevent water loss. The foot buds after cutting are numbered and marked, registered according to varieties, and recorded.

(2) Cutting: This is a method of cutting chrysanthemum twigs in spring and summer, which can be propagated in large quantities. This is the most widely used chrysanthemum propagation method. The cuttings can choose the shoots germinated after the foot buds of overwintering mother plants are cored, and the shoots at the top of strong branches are the best. For example, when the cutting materials are insufficient, the middle shoots can also be used, but the rooting is slow, which affects the growth. Cutting can be carried out from March to July, and May to June is usually the suitable time for a large number of cuttings. Because of the different characteristics of varieties, the needs of various shapes and the requirements of cultivation purposes, shoots can be picked in stages and cuttings can be used to raise seedlings.

(2) Plant dividing method: the new plants produced on the roots, tillers and stolons of plants are artificially divided and planted to make them become plants that can live independently. This method is called plant division. After the perennial roots of chrysanthemum overwinter, many rhizomes germinate and grow foot buds. These foot buds with roots are separated in March-April, watered after transplanting, shaded properly, delayed to see the light, applied with thin fertilizer after survival, and then grow into new plants. Branched seedlings with roots are easy to survive and grow fast, but the number of reproduction is small. Long-term propagation by branching method is easy to degenerate because plants are not completely updated. This method is mostly used for the introduction and cultivation of chrysanthemum.

(3) layering method: bend the branches of chrysanthemum plants and bury them in moist and loose soil, so that the tops of the branches are slightly exposed from the soil surface or high pressure is applied, and the parts covered by the soil are appropriately peeled or cut off to promote the generation of adventitious roots. The propagation method of cutting off branches after rooting and separating new plants from mother plants is called layering method. This method is rarely used and can be used for excellent mutants and dwarf plants.

(4) Grafting: The method of combining the organs of two plants to form a plant is called grafting. Grafting includes splitting, butting and budding. The grafting of chrysanthemum mostly adopts split grafting method, with twigs of chrysanthemum plants as scions and Artemisia annua with roots as rootstocks. Taking Artemisia annua as the rootstock, it mainly uses its advantages of strong adaptability, strong resistance, developed root system and vigorous growth to provide rich nutrition for scions and grow into thriving chrysanthemum plants. This method is mostly used to cultivate chrysanthemum, chrysanthemum and so on. The specific method is as follows: take 5 cm buds from chrysanthemum plants as scions, and cut the base of the scion into wedges with a sharp knife; At the same time, cut off the lateral branches of Artemisia annua, and the thickness of the cut part should be moderate. After topping, it should be split longitudinally, with a depth of 2-3 cm, slightly longer than the scion section. Immediately after splitting, the scion is inserted into the splitting seam of the rootstock and into the bottom of the grafting crack, so that the scion is aligned with the cambium of the rootstock. Then tie the joints with plastic film strips, and the joints can be wrapped in paper to prevent sun exposure and rain intrusion, which is conducive to healing. After grafting, scions can often be properly sprayed with water to prevent scions from wilting and improve the survival rate. About 20 days after grafting, remove the adhesive and Artemisia leaves from the rootstock below the joint.

(5) Tissue culture: Plant tissue culture rose in the 20th century and has become a new technology and discipline after more than 70 years of development. It is a method to cultivate an organ, tissue and cell of a plant by aseptic method, so that it can produce callus and form a complete new plant after induction, differentiation, growth and development. Because it can be carried out under strict artificial control, it grows rapidly and is a rapid asexual reproduction method. When cultivating plant tissues and organs, it is necessary to have certain laboratory equipment for cleaning, disinfection, sterilization, preparation of drugs and culture media and control of culture conditions. Tissue culture of chrysanthemum mostly adopts in vitro stem segment culture, taking the tender part as the experimental material, because the tender part has strong cell regeneration ability and is easy to succeed. The working procedure is as follows:

(1) medium: When MS medium is used for induction, 6- benzylamino adenine (BA) 1-3mg and NAA 0.1~1.0 mg are added to each liter of medium; During rooting culture, NAAO. 1 ~ O.3 mg was added per liter, and the PH value was adjusted to 5 ~ 6.

② Materials: Chrysanthemum tissue culture, the stem tip is the main culture site, and other parts can also be used, such as stem segments, receptacle, petals and leaves. For rapid propagation and accelerated propagation, shoot tips larger than 1 cm can be used. If virus-free seedlings are cultivated, the virus-free effect is good if they are cultivated with stem tips less than 0.6 cm.

③ Disinfection: The culture medium and culture container can be sterilized by moist heat method. The specific method is: keep the culture medium at 1. 1 kg/cm2 and 12 1℃ for 15-20 minutes, and the sterilization time of the culture medium should not be too long to avoid changes in components. Cloth products such as glassware and work clothes can prolong the disinfection time by 25-30 minutes. Metal utensils can be sterilized by dry heat.

Because most of the materials for plant tissue culture are taken from the field and contain a lot of miscellaneous bacteria, they need strict disinfection and sterilization. The method is as follows: tap water washing (10-20min) → 70% alcohol soaking (15s) → autoclaved distilled water washing (twice) → 10% bleaching powder clear solution soaking (20min) →

④ Inoculation: On the ultra-clean workbench, cut the sterilized materials into pieces over 65438±0mm (virus-free vaccine should be less than 0.6mm) on the sterilized filter paper and inoculate them on the sterilized culture medium.

⑤ Culture: Inoculate the stem tip material on the induction medium, and then move it into the culture room for culture. The temperature of induction culture is maintained at 26-27℃. After budding, subculture can be continued to expand the propagation coefficient, and the induced buds are transferred to rooting medium for culture to produce roots. The rooting culture temperature was kept at about 20℃, and the light intensity was 2,000 le per day 10- 12 hours.

⑥ Transplanting exercise: take out the seedlings from the container, wash off the culture medium, transplant them into the substrate of vermiculite and rice bran ash with sand, supplement fertilizer with half amount of MS culture solution, cover them with perforated plastic bags for heat preservation and moisture preservation, and put them under the shade shed. After 3-5 days, remove the plastic bag and see the light in the morning and evening. After survival, it can be moved into a mud basin for culture and then maintained as usual.