Planting techniques of Actinidia arguta
1 seedling propagation
1. 1 cuttage seedling raising
1) Cutting time and method: Hard cutting is generally in the middle and late March in Northeast China. It is appropriate to choose annual branches for cutting, and the temperature after cutting should not exceed 15℃. The cutting of green branches is usually in late June, and the semi-lignified new shoots of that year are selected as cuttings.
Hardwood cuttings can be made by using a fire-resistant cutting bed or an electric cutting bed. In contrast, the electric cutting bed is easy to control the temperature. Green cuttings can be carried out in hotbeds or open spaces.
2) Selection and treatment of cuttings: annual cuttings pruned in winter should be selected for hard cuttings, and cuttings with thick branches and full bud eyes should be selected. Green branch cutting is to select completely semi-lignified new shoots as cuttings during the growing season. The length of cuttings is generally 15? 18cm, the lower part is cut at an angle of 450, and the upper part of the bud eye is cut at 1.5cm, which is required to be smooth.
1.2 Grafting seedling raising
Grafting methods mainly include split grafting in spring and bud grafting with xylem in summer. Because Actinidia arguta has a big pith and a cavity, it is difficult to survive by grafting, so it is better to graft in spring, which is easy to survive and has a long growth period, so it can be planted in the same year.
Spring splitting method:
(1) Select annual branches of fine varieties as scions;
(2) symmetrically and obliquely cut a knife at the position 1 ~ 2cm below the scion bud to make the scion wedge-shaped;
(3) Cut the scion with a knife 0.3cm above the bud.
2 cultivation techniques
2. 1 Garden selection and seedling planting
Garden selection. Because the root system is thick and tender, it is shallow in soil, and it is afraid of drought, dampness and waterlogging. Therefore, it is advisable to choose loose and fertile sandy soil with good air permeability or hilly and mountainous areas rich in humus to avoid building gardens in waterlogged depressions. Because Actinidia arguta belongs to semi-negative plants, it is advisable to choose northeast or north slope.
Seedling planting and management. Suitable for spring sowing. After the soil layer is thawed, the plant spacing is 2m? 4m or 2.5m? Excavation and planting of 5m specifications * *, * * is 60 ~ 80 cm deep. When excavating * *, place topsoil and subsoil respectively. Then add 20 kg of decomposed organic fertilizer and 0.5 kg of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and then mix the topsoil and fertilizer evenly before planting. When planting, the roots of seedlings should be slightly higher than the ground or flush with the ground. After planting, cultivate the soil to make a tree tray slightly higher than the ground, and pour enough water to cover it with a layer of soil to reduce water evaporation.
Actinidia arguta is a dioecious fruit tree. When planting, the suitable ratio of male to female is 8: 1.
For newly planted seedlings, irrigation should be done in time when the soil is dry; Appropriate topdressing combined with irrigation, topdressing urea 509 per plant. If there is too much rain, the accumulated water should be removed in time to prevent waterlogging, and the soil of the tree tray should be kept loose and free of weeds during the growing period.
The new tip should be tied to the stringing or post in time to avoid being broken by the wind. 1 ~ 3-year-old plants, before freezing every year, the roots should be cultivated with LO ~ 20 cm loose soil to prevent cold.
2.2 Rack and Finishing
2.2. 1 rack. Actinidia arguta is a deciduous vine fruit tree with slender branches and twisted vines. Under natural conditions, vines mainly rely on technology to climb and grow on other trees. In cultivated orchards, it is necessary to set up supports for them to climb. Due to the vigorous growth of Actinidia arguta, the experimental research shows that the vertical branches grow a lot and are not easy to form flower buds, while the horizontal branches grow in general and have more flower buds. According to this growth characteristic, the horizontal shed is the most suitable for greenhouse cultivation.
Horizontal scaffolding is divided into small horizontal scaffolding and large horizontal scaffolding. The research shows that the large scaffolding has large area, good ventilation and light transmission conditions, and can give full play to its growth and fruiting ability, so it has high yield and good quality. Therefore, large-scale horizontal scaffolding should be used for cultivation. The specifications of the large shed frame are: height 1.8 ~ 2.0m, frame spacing is about 4m, and plants in each row are every 2.4? 2.6m cement columns or wooden columns with a buried depth of 60cm shall be set, and the columns shall be vertical and firm. From the bottom of the rack to the top of the rack every 40? 50cm set a horizontal steel wire, frame surface every 60 ~ 80 cm set a steel wire.
2.2.2 Plant modeling. The purpose of shaping is to make the branches and vines distribute reasonably on the frame, so as to effectively use the planting space, promote the plants to maintain vigorous growth potential and improve the fruiting ability.
What is the plastic adoption of plants cultivated in greenhouses? Multi-main rattan fan? . In the first year after seedling planting, cut the upright branches and vines by 30cm, and 2-4 branches and vines can germinate that year. When pruning in winter, the vigorous branches will be the main vines, but after 60? Cut it short at 80cm to promote the growth of strong branches from the base in the second year, thus cultivating the main vine. Each plant can cultivate 2 ~ 3 main vines. Selecting strong branches on the main vine every 50-80 cm to cultivate side vines; Re-culture fruiting mother branches on lateral vines. However, all new buds sprouting from the ground to the first lateral vine should be removed as soon as possible so as not to affect the growth of the lateral vine of the main vine.
Plant pruning. Pruning should be combined with winter pruning and summer pruning. Pruning in winter should be done two weeks before defoliation and bleeding in early spring, so it is easy to dry the bud eyes near the cutting mouth prematurely; It's too late to cause bleeding and damage trees. According to the growth and development of different tree ages, the relationship between vegetative growth and reproductive growth of plants, pruning in winter makes fruit trees take shape as early as possible, bear fruit at the right time, make fruit trees grow vigorously, bear more fruits, rejuvenate old trees and prolong the fruiting period.
The key is to determine the amount of branches left in different periods and the pruning length of annual branches. Generally, 4 ~ 5 medium and long branches are left per square meter, and if the short branches are not too dense, try to keep them; The pruning intensity of annual branches is mainly short, medium and short; Except the main spreading extension, the cutting length should not exceed 80cm, and the fruiting branch usually leaves 4 ~ 5 buds above the fruiting part. If the fruiting part moves outward, the fruiting mother branches with more light bands should be updated in time; If there are abundant and robust fruiting branches or developing branches at the base of the mother branch, the fruiting branches can be retracted to the robust fruiting branches. Results When the growth potential of the mother was weak, the latent buds at the base of the mother were cut off during pruning to promote the germination of the latent buds. When the main vine is old and weak, healthy new branches should be selected at the base of the plant in time for culture and regeneration.
Summer pruning is mainly carried out in the bud stage and vigorous growth stage of new shoots. Pruning in summer is beneficial to adjust the nutrient distribution of trees, improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions in the crown, and benefit the growth and fruit of trees. The main method is to wipe off inappropriate or too dense buds on the main vines and branches when new buds germinate, leaving a double bud. When the new shoots are more than 30cm long and the inflorescence is recognizable, it is advisable to remove too many developing branches and thinner fruiting branches, and keep 9 ~ L 1 new shoots every n, 2, so that the new shoots can reach 40% and 80? When you are down, take off your heart.
2.3 Orchard management
2.3. 1 soil management. After the garden is built and planted, the tree tray should be continuously managed, combined with weeding, and the tree tray should be plowed 2 ~ 3 times a year, and gradually expanded with the expansion of the crown. The depth of loosening the soil is mainly not to harm the root system, and the soil in the tree tray should always be loose and free from weeds.
Deep ploughing and ripening of soil can improve water and air conditions, which is beneficial to the reproduction of aerobic microorganisms and the improvement of fertility. Therefore, the combination of deep tillage and fertilization is the key measure to improve the growth environment of root system, and the suitable period is after fruit harvesting, generally about 50cm is the most suitable. At the same time, the tree disk is expanding year by year.
2.3.2 Fertilization. Early application of base fertilizer is better than late application, and early application after harvest is beneficial to maintain leaf photosynthesis in autumn and delay leaf senescence and flower bud differentiation. The fertilizer is mainly organic fertilizer, mixed with a certain amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Organic fertilizer 15 per plant? 20kg, N fertilizer 2009, P fertilizer and K fertilizer 1509 respectively. Fertilization method is plant, furrow application between rows or * * application. Top dressing twice a year, once before flowering. Supplementing the nutrition needed for flowering is mainly to improve the fruit setting rate and promote new shoots; The second time is in the rapid growth period of fruit, which lasts from the end of June to the beginning of July, which is beneficial to fruit growth and quality improvement. Note that the first topdressing is mainly nitrogen, and the second topdressing is mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; Each mature fruit tree contains 400 ~ 500 grams of nitrogen, phosphorus 1509 and potassium 2009.
2.3.3 Drainage and irrigation. Actinidia arguta is a fleshy shallow-rooted plant, which likes wet and is afraid of waterlogging and drought. Therefore, it is necessary to plan a complete drainage system when building the garden. Clean the drainage ditch before the rainy season every year to ensure smooth drainage. Every year, the roots of trees should be combined with loosening the soil to raise the soil, so that the height of the tree tray is slightly higher than the ground to avoid low-lying water around the trees. Irrigation and moisture preservation in dry season.
3 Harvest, storage and transportation
Soft and juicy berries of Actinidia arguta fruit. As a high-grade fresh fruit, reasonable harvesting, storage and transportation are very important measures to enter the market.
Due to the inconsistent ripening of fruits, it is necessary to master the principle of harvesting in batches with ripening. The maturity standard of harvesting is: the green husk has obvious luster and a little elasticity; When the soluble sugar reaches more than 10%, it is the best time for artificial harvesting. Is soluble sugar available? Handheld sugar meter? .
Fruits collected in the field should be packed in small plastic boxes or cartons, and should be handled with care. On the second day after storage, the boxes should be emptied or sold separately. The purpose of the dumping box is to dissipate the heat in the field and the moisture on the surface of the fruit for storage. Fruit can be stored at 0 ~ 2℃ in low-temperature cold storage 10 ~ 15d. If it is used as raw material for processing, it should be processed in time.
Key points of planting Actinidia arguta
First, colonization
Before planting, it is best to choose sandy loam or sandy soil with convenient transportation, abundant sunshine, water source, moderate rainfall and slightly high humidity, or hilly and mountainous areas with loose soil and rich humus as the garden. After the site is determined, seedlings can be planted. Generally, three-year-old seedlings are selected for planting.
Second, the framework.
The main scaffolding methods used in kiwifruit planting are: T-frame, hedge frame, tripod, large shed frame and so on. Large flat-topped scaffolding is often used, and the original small-diameter trees can be used as live piles on the spot, and some replaceable bamboo and wood soil can be added, and concrete piles can be used in key parts. The local frame height is 1.8m, crossed with 10- 12 iron wire. Hmm? Sawtooth network, the line spacing is about 60 cm.
Third, fertilization.
According to kiwifruit varieties, planned yield and soil fertility, determine the amount of fertilization. Before planting, 2.5 kilograms of fruit-bearing wood fertilizer can be applied to each plant in the pit, and a small amount of fertilizer can be applied to young trees. After that, fertilization is generally carried out three times a year, with base fertilizer 1 time and topdressing twice. After the fruits are harvested, apply the base fertilizer, that is, winter fertilizer, 20kg organic fertilizer per plant, and mixed application of phosphate fertilizer 1.5kg. After germination, apply 1 time topdressing, and apply 2kg compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to each plant to enrich spring shoots and fruiting trees. The second time, before the vigorous growth period, fruit and wood fertilizer or compound fertilizer can be applied. Because the root of kiwifruit is fleshy, we should dig a shallow ditch a little far from the root, apply chemical fertilizer, seal the soil and avoid burning the root. Irrigation must be given after fertilization in dry season.
Fourth, plastic surgery.
The shape of branches depends on the way of scaffolding, so we should make full use of the surface of scaffolding to make branches evenly distributed and achieve the goal of high yield and high quality. Kiwifruit pruning is divided into winter pruning, summer pruning and male pruning. Pruning in winter is carried out during the period from defoliation to germination in early spring 1 month, with thinning as the main method and proper cutting. Keep more main vines and fruiting branches and cut off dense branches.
Twigs, cross branches and pest branches. Summer pruning is mainly carried out from mid-May to early July, such as sprouting, coring, thinning and binding, and timely erasing the buds on the trunk to arrange space for the branches and vines. Male plants are pruned after flowering in May-June. Leave 3-4 branches per plant, and each branch has 4-6 buds. When the new branch length is 1 m, pick the core. Generally, fruit is thinned in the field 1 month after flowering. Leave intermediate fruit and thinning fruit, reaching 1 fruit every 4-5 leaves. Generally, there are 1-2 fruits per 20 cm branch, and 5-6 fruits per 20-25 cm weak branch. 50 kg per plant, leaving 500-600 fruits.
Five, pest control
The main diseases that harm kiwifruit are anthracnose, root-knot nematode, damping-off, damping-off, root rot and fruit soft rot. Among them, anthracnose not only harms stems and leaves, but also harms fruits. Spraying 800 times carbendazim for 2-3 times in germination period can prevent and control it. The management of fertilizer and water should be strengthened, and methyl isofenphos or 30% carbofuran toxic soil should be used to control root-knot nematode disease. The main pests of kiwifruit are mulberry Bai Dun scale, Penang comb scale, cutworm, scarab, leafhopper, fruit sucking moth and so on. The overwintering insects of scale insects are controlled by omethoate or 1500-2000 times killing liquid; Stir-fried bran for underground pests and carbofuran are mixed and applied to the ground according to the ratio of10:1.
For scarabs, trichlorfon or malathion 1000 times solution is sprayed in the evening from late March to early April, or pyrethroid insecticides are used. Use 50% phoxim EC or 1000 times cartap to control cicada. Fruit-sucking moths occur in September when the sugar content of the fruit begins to increase, and they come out at night to harm the fruit, causing the fruit to fall or the damaged part to form lumps. Bagging, dark light or sweet and sour solution (1: 1) can be used for trapping and killing, or mirex can be sprayed 65438 times every 10- 15 days.
Use of Actinidia arguta
Actinidia arguta fruit is edible and has high nutritional value. It contains a lot of vitamin C, starch, pectin and so on. Can be processed into jam, fruit juice, preserved fruit, canned food, wine or used to make cakes, sweets and other foods. It can also be used as medicine, and has the effects of strengthening body constitution, relieving fever, invigorating stomach and stopping bleeding. Root and root bark have certain therapeutic and inhibitory effects on digestive tract cancer. Branches and leaves can be used as pesticides, and the oil content of seeds is 35.62%, which is a good drying oil.
Actinidia arguta is rich in vitamins C, P, E, various micronutrients and 17 amino acids necessary for human body. It also contains proteolytic enzymes not found in other fruits, which can promote the digestion of food entering the body, especially for difficult-to-digest meat dishes.