First, plant and build a garden.

(A) the choice of gardens

The selection of natural environment must meet the requirements of temperature, light, moisture and soil for persimmon growth and development, that is to say, the base must be in the area suitable for persimmon planting. Specifically, the temperature for producing high-quality astringent persimmon should be within the annual average temperature 1 1 ~ 20℃; To produce high-quality sweet persimmon, the temperature should be within the range of annual average temperature 13 ~ 18℃, the annual rainfall should be above 500mm, the sunshine should be above 1400h, and the sunshine in autumn should be above 300h. The soil should not be too sticky or not pure sand, and there should be no places that are harmed by bad weather such as strong winds and hail. In addition, the traffic is developed, adjacent to or close to the main traffic trunk lines, which is convenient for the transportation of production materials and products; Have irrigation conditions; There is a relatively concentrated area for farming.

(B) the choice of garden site

The quality of the garden is the key to success. Although it can be cultivated in both flat and mountainous areas, it is very necessary to choose a garden in order to produce large and high-quality persimmons and improve market competitiveness. The following aspects should be considered when selecting:

1, topography and landforms should not be cultivated in valleys or low-lying areas where cold air is easy to stay, nor should you choose to build gardens at the tuyere; The slope should not be too large, so it is best to build the garden on a gentle slope of 5 ~ 15 degrees. Sweet persimmon likes light, and sunny slope is suitable.

2. Choose a place close to the water source to build a garden for irrigation during drought.

3. Try to choose soil with deep soil layer, rich organic matter content, good ventilation, underground water level below 1m, good drainage and no shortage of alkali.

4. Traffic should be built near highways or main roads.

(3) Planting techniques

1, planting time has two stages: autumn planting and spring planting. Autumn sowing is carried out after defoliation11~ 65438+February; Spring planting will be carried out after the soil is thawed in March. The climate in the south is warm, so the planting time in autumn can be appropriately postponed and the planting time in spring can be appropriately advanced; The frozen soil layer in the north is thick, and the seedlings planted in autumn are easy to drain if they are not cultivated, so it is suitable to plant in spring, but it is suitable to plant with leaves after the autumn rainy season in spring and dry areas.

2. Planting distance: within 65,438+05 years after persimmon planting, the crown of persimmon keeps expanding every year, and it is basically stable after 20 years. The size of the crown is related to the variety and fertility of the land, so the planting distance is different. The reasonable planting distance should be: when the crown is stable, adjacent branches do not touch each other, and the whole tree is well ventilated and transparent. In order to get more benefits in the early stage, intensive cultivation can be carried out between plants or rows. After planting for 8 ~ 10 years, the branches are contacted, and then thinning is carried out every other plant. Generally, 2.5×3 meters is suitable for the initial planting of sweet persimmon; 2.5× 4m is suitable for astringent persimmons.

3. Planting method

(1) The size of the planting hole will vary according to the soil quality. The root system with fertile and loose soil is easy to grow, and the planting hole is 0.8m square. Where the soil is hard, barren or even stony, the root system is not easy to stretch, and the planting hole should be large, the depth and width should be greater than 1 m, and if necessary, it should be dug larger. Dig holes before planting, and it is best to dig holes in the autumn of the first year in spring planting, so that the hole soil can be weathered in winter, which is beneficial to the growth of trees after planting. When digging, the core soil and surface soil are placed on both sides of the hole respectively.

(2) When planting seedlings, first mix the heartsoil with manure or compost and add a small amount of calcium superphosphate to fill the hole, and then put the seedlings when the hole is 20cm away from the upper surface of the hole. While filling, the seedlings are vibrated to make the soil flow into the gaps in the roots. After filling, a ridge is built around the holes, and then water is fully poured. After the water seeps down, it is covered with fine soil to prevent evaporation. The depth should be 5 ~ 10 cm, and the root neck should be flush with the ground or slightly deeper. If you find that it is planted too deep when watering, you can lift the seedlings a little, protect the foundation with soil immediately, and then cultivate and protect it after water seepage.

(D) Measures to improve the survival rate of persimmon planting

1. It is best to choose high-quality nursery stock after root cutting. The seedlings are strong and the joints heal well. The base diameter is more than 1cm, the plastic band is full of buds, the root length is more than 25cm, and the lateral roots are more than 5, without major injury.

2. Moisturize after emergence. After grading and bundling, immediately dip in the mud mixed with rooting powder, wrap it with agricultural film, and fill wet sawdust between the roots to keep moisture.

3. Plant persimmon trees in time, both in spring and autumn. Autumn planting should be early (late September-65438+1early October) and spring planting should be late. Root wounds with ground temperature above 14℃ are easy to heal and regenerate. Generally, it is planted in autumn in the south and in spring in the north. However, due to the spring drought in the north, leaves can also be planted in the autumn rainy season.

4. Strictly control the planting quality. The size of planting holes should depend on soil conditions. Hard planting holes in soil are larger, and loose planting holes in soil can be smaller. However, enough organic fertilizer must be applied to improve the soil in the cave. When planting, smooth the thick roots, straighten the roots when burying, fill the soil, fill it with water, and cover it with plastic film to keep moisture.

5. Strengthen management. The soil moisture in the planting hole cannot be dried within one year after planting, which is the key to survival, and the hole must be kept moist.

Insect prevention and cold protection are also crucial. Those planted in autumn in the north must be cultivated in the foundation to prevent freezing injury; In areas where rabbits are harmed, they should be pricked for protection.

Second, the management of soil, fertilizer and water.

soil management

Persimmon is a deep-rooted tree species with a long age. In order to make the trees grow normally and prolong the full fruit period, it is necessary to improve the physical and chemical properties of the soil, so that the soil is loose, rich in organic matter, good in air permeability, strong in fertilizer and water conservation and soil erosion. This can increase the absorption capacity of root system, improve fertilizer efficiency and avoid physiological injury.

1, intertillage weeding can make the ground soft, rain water easy to penetrate, increase ventilation, promote organic matter decomposition, and be beneficial to tree growth. It is also convenient for all kinds of management, and can reduce the places where pests and diseases lurk. However, too many times of intertillage weeding will promote soil erosion, reduce soil humus, destroy soil aggregate structure and affect soil fertility. Therefore, the number of intertillage should not be too much, so as not to form a grass shortage.

2. With the growth of tree age, before and after harvesting, combined with the application of base fertilizer, the tree hole is deepened and expanded year by year outside the planting hole. The depth depends on the soil quality. The depth of barren and hard soil should exceed 80 cm, and the depth of deep soil should be about 60 cm.

(2) scientific fertilization

1, the fertilization period should be applied before the most needed nutrients, and the advance time should include the decomposition time of fertilizer. That is to say, when applying quick-acting chemical fertilizer, it can be closer to the fertilizer demand period; If the after-effect organic fertilizer is applied, the time is far from the need, and if the organic fertilizer is not decomposed, it should be earlier. Generally, organic fertilizer is the main base fertilizer, which is applied before and after harvest (June 65438+ 10 to February 65438+February), and chemical fertilizer is the main topdressing, which is applied after the first physiological fruit drop and the second fruit expansion period. When the soil is fertile and the trees are strong, the secondary topdressing can be omitted; On the contrary, if the soil is barren and the tree is weak, it should be applied again in March-April when it germinates. 60% ~ 70% of nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the base fertilizer, and the rest is topdressing during the growth period; All phosphate fertilizer is applied to the base fertilizer; Potassium fertilizer is easy to lose and is essential in the process of fruit hypertrophy, so it is appropriate to apply base fertilizer and topdressing evenly.

2. Fertilization method

(1) Apply fertilizer annularly at the edge of crown width, dig annular ditches, each ditch is 30 ~ 40 cm deep, mix the fertilizer and topsoil evenly, then apply it and bury it. This method is mostly used for young trees.

(2) Dig radial ditches around the trunk, with a depth of 20-40 cm, a width of 30 cm and a length of 65,438+0-2 m (depending on the crown size), and fill 4-8 radial ditches with deep outside and shallow inside after fertilization. This method is mostly used for mature trees.

(3) This method can be used to fertilize young trees and big trees. When labor and fertilizer are insufficient, furrows can be dug alternately line by line, combined with deep ploughing.

The root system of this tree has covered the whole garden in the fruitful season. At this time, part of the fertilizer can be scattered in the tree tray and turned into the soil, so that the fertilizer can be combined with the depth and the effect is better. But it is easy to lead to root growth, so it should be used in combination with other methods.

3. External fertilization. External fertilization is also called foliar spraying. It is a fertilization method that the quick-acting fertilizer is prepared into a solution with a certain concentration and sprayed on the leaves.

(1) Common types and concentrations:

① Nitrogen fertilizer: 0.3% ~ 0.7% urea.

② Phosphate fertilizer: the leaching concentration of superphosphate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate is 0.3% ~ 3%, and ammonium phosphate is 0. 1% ~ 0.5%.

(3) Potash fertilizer: 3% ~ 10% plant ash leachate is used as the main fertilizer, and other concentrations such as potassium chloride, potassium sulfate and potassium phosphate are 0.5% ~ 1%.

④ Trace elements: 500ppm is generally suitable.

(2) Spraying method: Generally, urea is sprayed once every half month in the flowering period (mid-May) and the physiological fruit-dropping period (late May to mid-June), and some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be sprayed in the later period.

(3) Irrigation and soil and water conservation

Generally, in the arid areas in the north, each adult tree is watered 100 ~ 150 kg, and the young tree is watered 60 ~ 100 kg. Water more in years with more fruits, and the number and quantity of irrigation can be relatively reduced in years with less fruits. Irrigation period depends on soil drought, soil water equivalent and climate. Generally speaking, spring is dry, with little rain and windy. Water should be watered once before germination and before and after flowering, and once after fertilization to promote the timely absorption and utilization of nutrients. There are many irrigation methods, including grid method, furrow irrigation method and hole irrigation method:

1, the grid method is mostly used for flat persimmon orchards with sufficient water, that is, each tree is surrounded by soil or made into a tree tray, and water can be introduced into the grid from the waterway during irrigation. After water seeps into the soil, cover the soil or grass in time to moisturize, or intertillage to moisturize when the soil is slightly dry.

2. The furrow irrigation method generally uses a plow to open a ditch near the persimmon tree and draw water into the ditch until it is full. Similarly, after water permeates the soil, it covers the soil.

3. Cave irrigation method: Dig several holes 30 ~ 40 cm square under the canopy, fill the holes with water, and cover the soil after the water seeps into the soil.

Third, flower and fruit management.

(A) flowers and fruits management principles

The purpose of flower and fruit management is to produce even and high-quality large fruits every year, and supply them to the market to prevent the phenomenon of fruit hanging every other year. Therefore, we should follow the principle of adjusting tree potential and controlling yield, and maintain moderately strong tree potential with limited yield in order to achieve the goal of high and stable yield.

(2) Result adjustment technology

1. Young trees promote flowering. Young trees tend to flourish and grow early, but it is difficult to bloom. In addition to angle opening, girdling and girdling combined with summer cutting, the solution of 1000- 1500 ppm paclobutrazol can be sprayed twice before the rapid growth of new shoots in late April, with an interval of 10 day each time; Soil can also be applied before germination in autumn or early spring. According to the standards of dry diameter 1cm and 1 g, the growth of new shoots can be reduced by 30-40%, and the flowering rate can be increased by 20-30%. Spraying 1500ppm rare earth +30ppm gibberellin solution in full bloom can make the fruit setting rate reach 90.7%.

2. When the fruit is in the full fruit stage, the quantity of the fruit increases greatly, and the contradiction between yield and quality is very prominent. Generally speaking, the higher the output, the worse the quality. In order to produce high-quality big fruits, it is necessary to limit the output per unit area in order to achieve the goal of stable production and avoid the occurrence of big and small years. At present, the goal of per mu yield in China is 1500 kg ~ 2500 kg.

3. Maintain a certain ratio of leaves to fruits, and sparse buds and fruits. It starts when the first flower on the fruiting branch blooms and ends when the second flower blooms, which is the best time for bud thinning. During bud thinning, 1 ~ 2 flowers are reserved except for the 2nd ~ 3rd flowers with upward base, and all buds with late flowering on the fruiting branches are thinned out. For young trees that have just begun to bear fruit, all the buds on the main branches and side branches should be thinned out to make them grow fully. Fruit thinning can improve fruit yield. If fruit thinning is early, the fruit left behind will grow easily. However, due to the serious physiological fruit drop of persimmon trees, fruit thinning should be carried out in early July when the physiological fruit drop is about to end. Pay attention to the leaf-fruit ratio when thinning fruit, and 20 ~ 25 leaves per 1 fruit is the most suitable fruit yield; And attention should be paid to the quality of the fruit left behind. Remove stunted small fruits, upward fruits, injured sepals, deformed fruits, diseased fruits, etc.

Fourth, plastic trimming.

(A) the principle of persimmon pruning

1, which should conform to the characteristics of persimmon trees, be tangible and immortal, and follow the tree; The tree potential is balanced, and the master and slave are distinct; Give priority to sparse, restrain the strong and help the weak.

2. Suitable for site conditions: the fat crown is large and scattered, and the bald crown is small and dense; Slope crown height; In places with insufficient light, the main branches should be thin and the leaf curtain layer should be thin.

3. Young trees with strong growth potential have enlarged crowns and early fruits; Results The mother branch was quantitative. Fruit burns when it sees light; As a result, the site is near the main branch.

(B) plastic pruning methods

1, winter pruning (dormant pruning)

(1) After pruning, the young trees grow vigorously, but stop growing in the later stage, with strong apical dominance, small branching angle, long new shoots, obvious layering and strong budding ability, and the new shoots can sprout 2-3 times after being pitted. Pruning principle: cultivate skeleton, open angle and adjust tree shape. And timely plucking the core to promote the growth and fruiting of the mother branch; Proper pruning will promote transformation and lay a good foundation for early high yield. When pruning, according to the requirements of plastic surgery, select branches with appropriate positions as main branches and side branches. Sparse branches in the same direction, so that the extension heads of backbone branches at all levels are in a favorable position. For other branches that do not hinder the growth of extended branches, some are too dense to be thinned out, and some are too long to be properly retracted.

(2) Pruning the fruiting trees after persimmon trees are formed. Gradually entering the full fruit stage, the tree is stable, the yield is rising, and the tree body is expanding more and more slowly. With the increase of tree steps, the inner branches gradually weaken or even die due to shading, and the resulting parts move outward. Pruning principle: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, strengthen the regeneration of fruiting branches, and make the fruiting parts as close as possible to the main branches. Pruning of extension heads of main branches and side branches: Extension branches are in the leading position of main branches or side branches, and their subordinate relationship with other branches should be clear, and their extension direction should be consistent with that of main branches and side branches, so as to make their skeletons straight and transport nutrients quickly. At 1/3, the extended branches are firmly chopped above the complete buds; If the main side branches are too strong, remove the strong branches and replace them with weak branches; If the extension head is too weak, go weak and stay strong; If the extension head is deviated in the horizontal direction, it should be re-cut, and the cut buds should have internal buds to reduce curvature; If the main branches and side branches are too open, they should be leveled and tilted; If the branch angle is too small, go straight and leave an oblique angle. Pruning of fruiting branch group and fruiting mother branch: Whether the fruiting branch group is reasonably arranged on the backbone branch is the key to high yield. When arranged, the top is small and the bottom is large, so that the main branches and side branches are triangular in horizontal and vertical directions. The growth of fruiting branches growing in different parts is different, the upper branches are too strong, the lower branches are too weak, and the fruiting branches with a little horizontal extension are the most ideal. Results the arrangement of main and lateral branches should be staggered and updated every 4 ~ 5 years. Pruning of developing branches: thinning the twigs in the inner room or under the big branches; For developing branches with 2 ~ 3 secondary branches, the unfinished part should be cut off; The developing branches with the length of 20 ~ 45 cm are the easiest to form fruiting branches, and should be treated appropriately according to the specific situation. Generally, one-third of the branches that are too long can be cut off, and the short branches can be left uncut. If they are too dense, they should be thinned appropriately.

2. Pruning in summer (pruning in growing season)

(1) A large number of hidden buds will germinate near the incision or arch of the bud-smearing branch. Before the new branches lignified in May-July, the upward or downward shoots were erased, leaving the new branches at the lower side, so as to cultivate the fruiting mother branches.

(2) Generally, all the long branches should be drained, and the branches used to fill the gaps should be cored at 30 ~ 40 cm to promote the growth of branches.

(3) High-branch trees grow vigorously, with erect branches and easy crown closure, which affects the shaping and early yield. Pulling branches can relax the tree potential, expand the crown, change the branch direction and facilitate shaping. Whether cultivating main branches or lateral branches, when the direction of new branches is appropriate and the angle is small, the branches should be pulled at an ideal angle and direction before the new branches are lignified in June, and then pulled at an ideal angle in July and August when the new branches grow to a certain length, so that the branches can grow at an ideal angle. You can also bend the branches with E-shaped wire clips to make them at an ideal angle before lignification.

(4) Pruning branches stopped growing late and the top was not full. From late August to early September, the unfinished part of the top of the flourishing branch was cut to reduce the consumption of nutrients, promote the development of lower buds or form fruiting mother branches, and lay the foundation for increasing the number of branches in the next year.

(5) The flowering period of girdling (May) can make young trunk girdling bear fruit earlier, and as a result, the fruit setting rate can be improved. The peeling width is positively correlated with the thickness of the main body, and generally the peeling width is about 0.5 cm. Annular, spiral and staggered semicircles can be used.

Five, pest control

(1) Main diseases of persimmon trees and their control

1, persimmon angular leaf spot, which harms persimmon leaves and stems. At the early stage of the disease, yellow-green spots appeared on the front of the leaves, and the edge was not obvious. Later, the color of the spots gradually deepened to black, and the center of the spots was light brown. Due to the limitation of veinlets, polygonal spots with dense black spots in the middle were formed. In severe cases, most spots merge with each other and cover most leaves, so that they wither and fall off. Persimmon victims often occur around persimmons, which are dark brown and have no certain status quo. The disease occurs quickly, with the most lesions at the base of the main pulse. The pathogen overwinters in diseased pedicels and diseased leaves, spreads by rain from June to July of the following year, and invades from the back of leaves. So in rainy years from June to July, the disease is serious. Pathogens generally start to infect and invade in June and July, and August is the peak of the disease, with a large number of diseased spots, and then leaves and fruits fall off. The diseased stems can often remain in the trees for 2 ~ 3 years, and the pathogenic bacteria can continue to survive, becoming the main source of the first infection every year.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) Remove branches and leaves. Thoroughly removing the stems, dry branches and fallen leaves of persimmon trees on the ground is the key measure to control the disease. Because diseased stems, dead branches and fallen leaves are the main sources of infection, the control effect of removing burned stems, dead branches and fallen leaves is equivalent to spraying Bordeaux mixture.

② Chemical control. In mid-June and mid-July, 0.2% ~ 0.4% times of lime Bordeaux solution can be sprayed once, and each growing tree can be sprayed with 7.5 ~ 10 kg, taking the degree that wet branches and leaves do not drip. You can also try spraying the following chemicals: 65% thiram wettable powder 300 ~ 500 times; 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 500 ~ 600 times, 70% thiophanate methyl wettable powder 1500 times, 50% carbendazim wettable powder 1000 times, 70% mancozeb 600 ~ 800 times, etc.

③ Improve fertilization and water conservation. Increase fertilizer, pay attention to water saving, make trees strong and enhance disease resistance.

(4) Stop planting monarchs. Junqianzi soft persimmon is an important host of this fungus, and it is extremely difficult to remove the diseased branches after infection, so it is best not to plant Junqianzi in persimmon areas.

2, persimmon round spot disease This disease harms persimmon leaves and persimmon stems. At first, small yellow-brown spots appeared on the front of the leaves, and the edge color was lighter, which gradually expanded into round brown spots. Generally, the diameter of the lesion is about 3 mm, and the maximum is 7 mm. As the leaves turn red, green or yellow halo appears around the lesion. In severe cases, the leaves quickly turn red and fall off. If the tree is strong, the diseased leaves will fall off and not turn red. When the veins are damaged, the leaves are deformed; The disease on persimmon stems is late and there are fewer spots. The diseased fruit is small, tasteless and easy to soften and fall off early. Pathogens overwinter in diseased leaves or pedicels with hyphae. Ascomycetes form from April to May of the following year. Ascomycetes mature in mid-June, spread by wind and rain, and get sick in August-September, and only invade once a year. It is more serious in rainy years or when the climate is humid.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) Sweep the fallen leaves and burn them centrally to eliminate the overwintering pathogens.

② Strengthen cultivation management, strengthen tree vigor and improve disease resistance.

③ in mid-June, spray 1: 2 ~ 5: 600 times bordeaux mixture to prevent infection.

3, persimmon anthracnose This disease mainly harms the branches of the fruit, rarely occurs on the leaves, even if it exists, it is limited to the petiole or vein, and the fruit mainly occurs near the pedicle. Branches usually start to get sick at the beginning of June, and fruits get sick later, usually in late June, early July, or late August to early September. At the early stage of the disease, small black spots appeared on the surface of the fruit, which gradually expanded into a round or oval shape with a slight depression. The diameter of the lesion is about 65438±0cm, and there is a black spot in the center with dark gray mucus (conidia) on it. Damaged fruits tend to soften, fall off or turn sour. The lesions on the new shoots are mostly oval, black or dark brown, and the surface is slightly concave. There are scattered dots (spore layer) on it. When the lesion surrounds the new shoot once, the branches on the upper part of the lesion will dry up and fall leaves due to the destruction of the conducting tissue. The pathogen overwinters on diseased branches and fruits, and can move at 9 ~ 36℃, but 25℃ is the most suitable for its reproduction and development. When a fruit or branch has a wound, it is easier to invade.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) Collect and burn diseased branches and fruits.

② Select varieties with strong resistance.

③ Strictly select seedlings and scions to prevent the spread of diseases.

(4) Spraying a mixture of stone and sulfur with Baume degree of 5 degrees before germination.

⑤ Chemical control: spray 1: 2 ~ 5: 600 times of Bordeaux solution after June. You can also choose 40% Baikening 900 ~ 1200 times solution, 60% John John Bowring 800 ~ 1200 times solution, 70% mancozeb 400 ~ 500 times solution and 50% carbendazim 800 times solution. Spray any of the above medicines. Specially recommended are 30% persimmon disease clearing and other drugs recently developed by Shenzhen Ruidefeng Pesticide Company.

(2) Main persimmon pests and their control

1, persimmon fruit worm is also called persimmon fruit moth, persimmon fruit worm and stem borer.

It is widely distributed in the main persimmon producing areas in China, and it is a pest that specifically harms persimmon fruit. The damaged fruit softened and fell off in the early stage, which led to a sharp drop in the yield of severely affected areas. Usually there are two generations a year, and the mature larvae overwinter in the gap between the trunk and the branches, in the dried fruit of the tree and in the soil more than an inch deep near the root. Overwintering larvae pupate from late April to mid-May of the following year, with the peak of pupation in mid-May, adult emergence from early May to early June, and emergence peak in mid-May. The first generation larvae are damaged from late May to early July, and the peak period is in mid-June. The second generation larvae began to damage in mid-July until harvest. In mid-August, the larvae matured and began to shed fruit and cocoon for the winter.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) In winter, the overwintering larvae can be eliminated by scraping off the wing skin and rough skin on the branches, picking off the remaining persimmon stems, and centralized burning.

(2) In the middle and late June and from mid-August to early September, the harmful fruits of larvae must be removed in time, picked, washed and buried deeply, so as to eliminate the pupae and larvae of that year.

(3) In mid-August, straw stalks were tied to the trunk and main branches with rough skin to lure the larvae to overwinter in them, and then they were burned out with fire.

④ In the peak period of adult occurrence, use 20% Juma EC 1500 ~ 2500 times solution; 20% fenpropathrin EC 2500 ~ 3000 times; Or 3,000-5,000 times of 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate; Or 20% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate 2500-3000 times; Or 1000 times of 50% chlorpheniramine EC. Good results can be achieved by controlling 1 ~ 2 times.

2. Small leafhoppers with blood spots are also called floating dust with blood spots.

There are almost all persimmon producing areas. Nymphs and adults live on both sides of the veins on the back of leaves and suck juice. The damaged chlorophyll was destroyed and white spots appeared on the front of the leaves. In severe cases, the whole leaves are pale, which makes the fruit smaller, the taste lighter and the yield lower. It occurs 2 ~ 3 generations a year, and overwinters with eggs on new shoots. It hatches in late April of the following year, and its peak period is in early and middle May. In late May, nymphs became adults, and their offspring overlapped with adults.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) clear the garden, clean up weeds and fallen leaves under trees, and reduce the source of overwintering insects.

(2) In late May, when the first generation nymph appeared in large numbers after persimmon blossom, 40% dimethoate emulsion can be used for 2000 times, or 50% octane sulfonic acid emulsion 1000 times, and 50% chlorpyrifos emulsion can be used.

③ Protect natural enemy red insect-eating mite.

3. Chelidonium majus is distributed in most persimmon producing areas. The insect feeds on leaves or new shoots, and it is easy to induce coal disease when leaves are damaged. One generation occurs every year, and the fertilized female overwinters on the twigs. Laying eggs from early May to late June of the following year. It hatches from early June to early July, and the male pupates from mid-August to mid-June. From late August of 10 to early October of 10, males emerge and then mate with females. From mid-August, female insects climb from persimmon leaves to branches of one to five years old, and enter winter at the affected area. At the beginning of mid-June, the hatched nymphs crawled out from under the wax shell, clustered on the surface of persimmon leaves, fixed and sucked the leaf liquid. In late July, male and female worms can be distinguished, and the body type of male worms remains unchanged. It pupates in mid-August, begins to emerge in late August, and then flies to the female to mate. After fertilization, the female worms are transferred to branches for the winter.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) Before the winter solstice and spring germination, use a broom to sweep away the overwintering insects on the branches.

(2) In the foggy weather in severe winter, there are often ice ridges on branches, and tortoise scales are also buried in ice packs. When the ice melts, we can organize manpower to knock it down in time.

(3) Combining pruning and drying branches, cutting off individual branches with more insects and burning them.

④ In mid-June, nymphs were sprayed with 20% fenpropathrin EC 2500 ~ 3000 times, 2.5% deltamethrin EC 3000 ~ 5000 times, 40% dimethoate 1000 times and 50% wettable carbaryl 500 times, all of which had good effects.

4, yellow thorn moth: this insect is almost all over the country. Eating too much is harmful to many kinds of fruit trees. Larvae eat mesophyll when they are young, and the residual veins are basket-shaped. In the later stage, the larvae eat the leaves into nicks, and in severe cases, they can eat all the leaves. The poisonous hairs on the larvae will sting people's skin, causing redness and pain. 1 year the second generation of yellow thorn moth in Shaanxi. Overwintering with mature larvae cocooning on branches (big trees), main lateral branches and rough trunk (small trees). In the 1 generation area, adults emerge from mid-June to early July, and larvae occur from mid-July to late August. In 1, overwintering larvae generally pupate in early May, and overwintering adults emerge in late May and early June. Adults lie in the daytime and come out at night, and their phototaxis is not strong. From late August to September, the larvae gradually mature and cocoon on the trees for the winter.

Prevention and control methods:

(1) Artificial control: combined with the pruning of fruit trees in winter, thoroughly remove or pierce the overwintering cocoons and remove the cocoons in the shelter forest around the orchard. In summer, the larvae are artificially killed in combination with breeding operations such as pruning in summer;

(2) Biological control: when the leaves of fruit trees are cut in winter, the cut overwintering cocoons are collected in iron net cages and hung in orchards, and fly away after the emergence of parasitic natural enemies, so as to collectively eliminate adults; The natural enemies mainly include Shanghai Qingfeng, Black Bee and Korean Apodemus.

③ Chemical control: the key period of control is the early larval stage, and 50% chlorfenapyr 1000 times solution can be sprayed; 10% cypermethrin 2000 times solution; 2.5% deltamethrin 3000 times solution; Or 600 times of 25% phoxim emulsion; 25% diflubenzuron No.3 colloidal suspension 25 ~ 50 ppm, entomogenous fungi 1000 times solution (20 billion /g).

China Organic Agriculture Network Organization