The bonsai of deciduous fruit trees can be carried out from late autumn defoliation to spring germination; The bonsai of evergreen fruit trees can be carried out from late autumn when the branches stop growing to before the spring shoots sprout.

The shortcut is to cut off part of the annual branches. Different degrees of mowing, the growth and development of the next year are very different.

Light and short cutting refers to cutting off only one or two buds at the top of branches. This method has little stimulation to branches and is beneficial to promote the growth and early fruiting of short branches. However, because the remaining branches are too long, it is easy to cause the tree shape to be too scattered, and after flowering at the apex, the long bare belt is easy to be exposed at the back, thus destroying the shape of potted trees, so it is rarely used in fruit tree bonsai.

Short and medium cutting refers to short cutting when the middle part of the annual branch is full of buds. This method is suitable for weak trees with weak growth potential or serious pests and diseases. For tree species with short and medium branches, this method will delay the fruiting, form too many branches, and often disturb the tree shape, so it should be used with caution. This method can increase the number of branches in the new pot and shape young trees. The intercept length is often determined according to the needs of modeling, and then it needs to be carried out with flower promotion measures or modeling.

Double short cutting refers to short cutting where the lower buds of annual branches are not full. Bud-cutting branches are weak and stop growing earlier, which is beneficial to shrink trees and form flower buds. Because this method can effectively control the crown and promote the growth of short and medium branches, it is often used to prune short and medium branch trees, such as apple bonsai and pear bonsai.

Extremely heavy pruning refers to cutting off one or two withered buds at the base of annual branches, or even cutting off only dormant buds (latent buds) at the base. Weak branches can be issued in the following year. This method can reduce the position of branches, obviously reduce the tree body, promote the growth of fruiting branches and bear fruit in the tree body, but it is easy to weaken the tree when used too much, and is suitable for the treatment of short and medium branches or individual overgrown branches forming trees.

Shrinking pruning, also known as retraction pruning, refers to cutting off a part from the perennial part of a branch. This method can weaken the whole tree body and effectively inhibit crown expansion. Light pruning refers to cutting off 1/4 ~ 1/5 of the length of perennial branches, leaving strong branches and strong buds to take the lead, which can promote the growth of trees. Heavy cutting refers to cutting off 1/2 ~ 1/3 of the length of perennial branches, and keeping weak branches to inhibit the growth of trees.

Tree species, such as apple bonsai, which mainly have short branches, often adopt the method of promoting fruit shaping in the young tree period, that is, cutting short branches in the light first, and then retracting to the flowering position after the base branches become flowers, so as to achieve the purpose of early fruit and early shaping.

Thinning refers to cutting off from the base of branches (annual or perennial branches). Thinning can reduce the number of branches, reduce the tree body and reduce the growth potential, which is beneficial to ventilation and light transmission and flower bud differentiation in potted trees. The incision caused by thinning hinders the transport of nutrients from top to bottom, which leads to the inhibition of growth above the incision and easy flowering, while the incision below can promote growth. Thinning is mostly used to shape medium and long branches, too dense branches, thin and weak branches in the crown, too straight and too prosperous branches and branches that affect the tree shape and are difficult to transform and utilize. It should be noted that different tree species have different thinning objects. For trees with medium and short branches, the branches that are too strong should be thinned out, and vice versa. When there are many local branches, you can pull them out first and then thin them, so as to prevent too many branches from thinning, resulting in the whole potted tree being empty, scattered and weak.

"Wearing a hat" pruning refers to pruning at the junction of spring shoots and autumn shoots of biennial branches. Cutting in the middle of the joint, commonly known as "wearing a dead hat", can grow short branches under cutting in the second year. Leaving a few dead buds of autumn shoots above the joint is called "wearing a living hat". The following year, the middle branch is in front and the short branch is in the back. Using "wearing a hat" pruning can make tree species such as apple bonsai and pear bonsai blossom and bear fruit in advance, but the bearing part is often at the upper end of branches, so it is necessary to pay attention to cultivating the back branches and retracting them in time to prevent the trees from being too scattered.

Branching is to widen the opening angle of branches that are prosperous and difficult to bloom, change their extreme position and vertex advantages, control prosperity and promote flowering.

Note: during the pruning period, the most suitable pruning period is from early spring after dormancy to before germination for family farming or fruit tree bonsai enterprises with small output in cold regions. Because in the winter cold process, branches and buds are sometimes injured, and the extra branches can play a protective role. After careful pruning, branches and buds have been identified, and once damaged, it is difficult to make up. Because the temperature of basin soil rises rapidly in early spring, basin trees take root early, and if pruning is too late, it is easy to cause bleeding.

All kinds of pruning methods should be applied reasonably. When pruning, it is necessary to identify flower buds, branches and expected flowering parts, and try to make the fruiting parts close to the trunk and main branches to make the whole tree plump and compact. First-bearing trees often have few flower buds, so they should be preserved and used as much as possible. After a year's results, the tree potential can be alleviated and the yield of flowers will increase. When the amount of flowers is large, some buds can be thinned according to the needs of modeling, so that they can be distributed reasonably.

Pruning should be closely coordinated with modeling and shaping, and its flowering results and modeling form should be considered every time pruning. It should be pointed out that the shape of fruit tree bonsai changes greatly every year or even every quarter, including the fruit, the branches of that year, the bearing parts of each year and so on. Once its basic shape is determined, it will be continued and improved year by year. In order to avoid unreasonable pruning contrary to modeling, the whole body can be bent and stretched according to the needs of modeling, so as to determine the main branches or necessary branches, remove the interfering branches, and finally deal with other branches. "First overall, then local; Setting the shape first, then setting the fruit "should be the principle that must be followed in the pruning process of fruit bonsai (including summer pruning)." "

Pruning during dormancy is usually combined with changing pots. Because there are many root injuries when pruning roots in the process of changing pots, the pruning of aboveground parts should be aggravated accordingly, that is, the growth points (the number of sprouting branches in the second year) and the amount of fruit hanging should be reduced appropriately. The operation period should not be too late, and it is best to do it after the leaves fall in autumn, so as to restore the root system as soon as possible. When it germinated in spring, a large number of new roots had already occurred, and the growth and development of that year were completely normal.

Growing season pruning (summer pruning)

Pruning during the growth period removes some branches and leaves, reducing the synthesis of organic nutrition. At the same time, because of the stimulation of pruning, it germinates again, increasing the consumption of nutrients, so it has a strong inhibitory effect on the growth of trees and branches. At this time, the pruning amount should be less, and it is difficult for trees with lush branches to bloom and grow many times in a year. Proper application can adjust the contradiction between growth and fruit, which is beneficial to normal growth and development and early flowering.

Picking is to pick the tender tips of new buds that have not stopped growing. Core-picking can control the growth of branches, increase branches and promote flower formation. It is not advisable to cut the glue too early, otherwise too few leaves will be left, which will seriously weaken the tree potential and branch potential. Peaches, for example, will be picked two or three times in the first half of May, which is conducive to promoting flowering. The auxiliary tip of the fruit picking table can improve the fruit setting rate.

When the annual upright branch with twisted top is about 10 cm long and the lower part is semi-lignified, twist it by hand 180 degrees to make its top droop or tilt. Due to the damage of xylem and bark of branches and the change of growth polarity, it is beneficial to alleviate the growth potential and promote the formation of flower buds. It was applied to apple bonsai from late May to early June, and the effect was good.

Ring cutting (ring cutting) In the growing season, the middle and lower parts of branches and stems are cut with a knife one or several times to reach the xylem without peeling. Because the wound hinders the transportation of nutrients up and down, it can slow down the growth of trees and promote flowering. The spacing of multi-cutter ring cutting is generally around 10 cm. In order to promote plants to form flower buds and become good flowers, the method of three-time ring cutting is often used, which is the secret that fruit farmers often say, "May is not idle, June is effective, and July is full of flowers." You can only cut one or two rings at a time, you can't cut more than one ring, and you can't cut the ring repeatedly on the last wound.

Thinning branches and smearing buds has a great weakening effect on the growth of the whole tree, and it is only suitable for dense flourishing trees. Some fruit trees, such as peaches and grapes, have high germination ability and branching ability and grow many times a year. Improper pruning management will easily lead to closed branches and poor ventilation and light transmission, so some branches that are too dense should be thinned out. In order to avoid wasting too much nutrients and weakening the tree, the branches should be thinned early, and the germination and tillering can also be early.

Pruning in flowering period When pruning in dormancy period, it is often because the flower buds cannot be confirmed, or in order to prevent the number of flower buds from being affected by frostbite and mechanical damage, so more flower buds are reserved for pruning before flowering in spring or flowering period. The purpose of this pruning is mainly to set flowers and fruits. If there are too many flowers, you can locally thin or cut off the leaves and buds at the base. For "short fruit clusters" or "cluster flower buds" (axillary flower buds), the top can be cut off and some flower buds can be properly thinned to make the fruit compact. The number of flower buds per branch of large fruit type is not more than 3, and the number of small fruit types can be more according to their strength, position and overall shape.

It is necessary to keep more branches and leaves before pruning in the growing season to meet the nutritional needs of fruit development. There are many fruits in bonsai in autumn, but the direction, length and position of some branches are not suitable, which further affects the overall shape of potted trees. Therefore, before leaving the garden as a commodity or exhibit, the above branches should be cut short or pulled to change direction to improve the ornamental effect. In addition, because the potted trees are small and the fruits are concentrated, when some fruits are covered by leaves, some leaves can be removed appropriately, so that all the fruits in front are exposed and half the fruits in the back are exposed. It is not normal to pick too many leaves.

Matters needing attention in operation period, different tree species have different pruning periods. Peach, grape and other fruit trees need to germinate many times a year, each time the purpose is not exactly the same, and the treatment methods are also biased. Another example is that apple, pear and other tree species are concentrated in late May to early June, but they can be cored and circumcised many times.

It varies from tree to tree and has a clear purpose. The purpose of summer pruning is to adjust the relationship between the growth and fruiting of potted trees, and it should be just right to prevent the growth from weakening due to overweight. In practical application, it should vary from tree to tree, be used for strong and fruitless trees, and be used with caution for sick trees. According to the growth performance of potted trees and the need of promoting control, one or more pruning measures and one or more pruning measures can achieve good results.