1. Variety selection: The varieties with strong branches, short internodes, edible and gorgeous fruits, early flowering and fruiting, high fruit setting rate, strong disease resistance and adaptability to potted environment are the best. At present, the more suitable potted varieties are Xing 'ai No.2, Xing 'ai No.3, Xing 'ai No.4, Xing 'ai No.5, Aixiang pear, Hongqie pear, Honganjiu and so on.
2. Selection of flowerpot and preparation of nutrient soil:
(1) Selection of flowerpot: Pot has good ventilation, is beneficial to root growth, and is inexpensive and most commonly used; You can also choose porcelain pots, which are beautiful, but have poor permeability. The size of the basin can be determined according to the needs. Generally, if it is placed indoors or on the balcony, it is appropriate to choose the one with an inner diameter of 25-45 cm and a height of about 2-35 cm. If placed on the roadside, flower beds or conference halls, you need to choose a larger basin.
(2) preparation of nutrient soil: the preparation of nutrient soil should be carried out according to the requirements of pear trees for soil. Pear likes fertile sandy loam and neutral soil, and generally can grow well in the soil with pH of pH5.8-8.5, but the types of rootstocks used should be considered, such as Yamanashi, Douli and Duli. First, the abandoned leguminous crop stalks in rural areas are mixed and piled up with field soil, and after about one year, they are piled into granular fertile soil, and then 1/2 compost +1/4 garden soil +1/4 sandy soil (or cinder) is used to make pot soil, and 1 kg of NPK compound fertilizer is added to each cubic meter of pot soil and mixed well, which becomes the nutrient soil for potted plants.
3. Pot loading and pot changing:
(1) Pot loading: Generally, pot loading is carried out in dormancy period, especially in early spring before germination. Seedlings can be grown into seedlings, semi-grown seedlings, or directly planted with rootstocks. Select the seedlings with well-developed root system, many fibrous roots and strong roots and put them on the pot, cover the small holes at the bottom of the pot with 1-2 pieces of broken tiles or small stones, put a layer of coarse sand on the bottom of the pot and fill in part of the pot soil; Cut the roots of seedlings into new stubbles, spread them out, and then fill the pots with soil. When filling the soil, keep lifting the branches lightly to make the basin soil compact. Pot soil should not be too full for watering. The seedlings should be located in the center of the basin, and the root neck should be even or slightly downward with the soil. If planted too deeply, the plant will grow slowly;
too shallow, affecting survival. After planting, it should be watered in time.
(2) change pots: generally, change pots once every 2-3 years. It should be carried out in the dormant period of pear trees. Two days before changing the basin, water should be poured first, and then gently vibrated when changing the basin to separate the basin soil from the basin wall. Then buckle the pot downwards, and lift out the soil together with the plants, and then slowly remove the soil, retaining 2%-4% of the soil in the original pot. At this time, the long roots, aged roots and redundant roots should be pruned, and then new culture soil should be put on, and the plants should be planted in the original basin or a larger basin, and filled with water.
4. Shaping and pruning: Potted pears are used for ornamental purposes, such as natural round head shape, curved round head shape, loose shape and phoenix tail shape. If the variety itself is a natural round head shape, such as Xing 'ai No.2 and No.3, there is no need for tough shaping. If there are many branches, pay attention to proper thinning and keep ventilation and light transmission; If individual branches stretch too long, they should be adjusted by pulling branches and retracting them. In order to slow down the top advantage of pear, the core should be picked repeatedly in the growing season to improve the nutritional status of the back branches and buds and promote the development of branches and flowers. In addition, we should pay attention to reasonable fruit retention. If it exceeds the load, it will often lead to insufficient nutrition, less fruit setting or small fruit development, which will weaken the growth of the tree and make it difficult to renew. It is advisable to keep 2-3 fruiting branches in each short fruit branch group.
5. Fertilizer and water management: Due to the limited space in the basin, sufficient fertilizer and water supply must be ensured to ensure the normal growth, flowering and fruiting of pear trees. Fertilization began after pear trees germinated in the basin. Use fermented organic liquid fertilizer, add more than 1 times of water and apply it once every 7-1 days. Foliar spraying can also be used, and .2%-.3% urea solution is better in the early growth stage, which can be sprayed for 3-4 times. Spraying .1% borax at the peak of flowering to improve the fruit setting rate. After flowering, the fruit expansion period is also the vigorous growth period of new shoots, which requires more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. .2%-.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed 3-4 times to promote fruit maturity, branch enrichment and flower bud differentiation. The fertilization principle of potted pears is to apply less frequently, which not only prevents root burning, but also facilitates full absorption and reduces fertilizer loss. Pear leaves are sensitive to water supply and prone to drought and wilting. The water content of pear fruit is more than 85%. If the water supply is insufficient, it will directly affect the fruit growth. In spring and autumn, the watering frequency should be determined according to the soil and leaves, and it is generally watered every 1-2 days. In the hot summer, it is advisable to water the leaves before 8 am and after 5 pm every day, and spray them to wash away the dust on the leaves and promote photosynthesis. In winter, the soil moisture in the basin should also be properly watered.
6. Pest control: The main disease is pear scab. The disease damages leaves, shoots and fruits. In the early stage of leaf injury, there are round, oval and irregular yellowish round spots between the main and branch veins on the back of leaf. Gradually expanding, the affected part is slightly sunken, and black mold grows on it. Commonly used drugs to prevent this disease are 5% Anfu 15 times solution, 1% Shigao 4-6 times solution and 4% Fuxing 8 times solution. Pear psylla is the main pest that harms pears. The control method is to spray 2.5% Kung Fu EC, 2% Miesanli EC, 2.5% Baode EC, 2% Fenvalerate EC, 2.5% Fenvalerate EC, 5% Beta-cypermethrin EC with 2-fold solution before the overwintering adults lay eggs. Spraying 5% beta-cypermethrin 2 times solution, 3% Baiphosphorus 15 times solution and 3% Cyanide-Horse EC 15-2 times solution in the first generation larval concentration period after flowering (open cultivation).
7. overwintering management: potted pear trees should be placed in places with stable temperature and humidity, such as corridors or empty houses without heating conditions. If you put it on the balcony, you should do a good job of cold protection. You can wrap it in old cotton sleeves and wet sacks and wrap it with plastic film for external use. When there is a small courtyard, it can also be buried in the ground with pots covered with 25-3 cm thick. It's best to put it in the cellar if conditions permit.