(1) The sooner the bud is smeared, the better, so as to reduce nutrient consumption and use limited nutrients and water economically and effectively. After the bud eye germinates, it can be smeared 1 time. However, due to the different germination time of the bud eye, it is necessary to smear the bud eye many times. The buds sprouted by adventitious buds on the main vine have no use value except for the renewal and rejuvenation of aged grapes, and should be erased in time. When it needs to be used, it should be pulled out as soon as possible to promote rejuvenation, and then used. Results The weak buds among the two or three buds sprouting on the mother branch should also be erased as soon as possible, leaving only the 1 strong buds on each node, abnormal buds and buds that may affect the tree shape, and should also be erased as soon as possible. If potted grapes are grafted seedlings, the buds germinated by rootstocks should be smoothed as soon as possible so as not to affect the germination and growth of varieties. After the first 1 smear, the germination and growth of bud eyes should be observed in time. When the inflorescence can be judged, the buds can be fixed by combining the secondary bud smearing. When the branches are fixed, except for a certain number of fruiting branches, the redundant buds and weak branches should be smoothed or thinned in time.
Potted grapes, because the pot soil is limited, store little water and nutrients. So it is not advisable to leave too many branches. Generally, 2-year-old potted grapes leave 3 ~ 4 new shoots per plant; Potted grapes for more than 3 years, 4 ~ 6 new shoots are selected for each plant, and after they are cultivated into fruiting branches, they can bear fruit in turn. If the container for growing grapes is particularly large, you can also leave a few more branches. After two times of bud smearing and bud fixing, if there are still redundant buds, they should be erased in time.
(2) Picking can adjust the nutrient distribution of grape shoots, slow down the growth of nutrients, promote the differentiation of flower buds, and make use of limited water and nutrients to blossom and bear fruit. Picking the core before flowering can also improve the fruit-setting rate of grapes, but if there are less than 5 leaves above the inflorescence, the fruit-setting rate can be improved, but because of the small leaf area, the accumulated nutrition is not much, which has an adverse effect on the later berry expansion.
Picking can also force some grape varieties to sprout summer buds or winter buds, and obtain multiple fruits a year. Because of the limited growth time of grapes cultivated in the open field, the third fruit often cannot mature normally, while potted grapes can be moved indoors to ensure the normal maturity of multiple fruits.
The coring of potted grapes can be divided into: new shoot coring, fruiting branch coring and auxiliary shoot coring.
The core picking of new shoots refers to the core picking of new shoots of main vines. That is to say, in the year of grape planting, when the main vine is elongated to the required length, picking the stone is conducive to accelerating the formation, promoting the bold growth of new shoots, increasing nutrient accumulation, promoting flower bud differentiation, and creating conditions for the next year's fruit.
Results: Before flowering, 6 ~ 7 leaves were left above the inflorescence to pick the core, which changed the transport direction of nutrients, improved the nutritional status of grape ears and increased the fruit setting rate. If only four leaves are left above the inflorescence or four leaves are left below to remove the core, the fruit setting rate can be improved, but the area of leaves left is too small, which is not conducive to the accumulation of organic nutrition, so it will affect the later development of the fruit. Therefore, when coring above inflorescence, the number of leaves left should not be less than 6.
The tip is first-rate. After the core of the main vine is removed, the secondary buds of summer buds will germinate. Potted grapes with different tree ages have different treatment methods for secondary branches. When planting trees in the same year, you can leave 4 ~ 5 leaves for the top buds. If the secondary branches germinate again, leave 1 ~ 2 new shoots on the top, 4 ~ 5 leaves on each new shoot, and 1 ~ 2 leaves on the lower secondary branches, which will help to expand the leaf area, increase nutrient accumulation and promote the main vine. When planting grapes in that year, you can leave more leaves, but you can't let them go, so as not to affect the normal growth of that year and the fruit of the next year.
Grapes usually bear fruit in the second year after planting After fruiting, only the top 1 ~ 2 branches are left, and 4 ~ 5 leaves are left for coring, which is conducive to expanding leaf area, increasing nutrient accumulation and promoting ear expansion; The remaining auxiliary tips need to be erased as soon as possible to reduce nutrient consumption and facilitate ventilation and light transmission.
Some potted grapes grow vigorously, even as long as 2 ~ 3 meters, but they just don't bear fruit. One of the reasons is that they don't pick their heads, which leads to the vegetative growth of branches and vines consuming a lot of nutrients and unable to bear fruit.
(3) Cutting ears and thinning grains is an effective measure to improve the quality and ornamental value of potted grapes. The number of tassels in potted grapes depends on the container size, management techniques and varieties. In general, it is appropriate to leave 1 ear for each fruiting branch of Fujiminori and Kyoho grape varieties, and the redundant inflorescences should be thinned out as soon as possible; Small-grain varieties such as Saba Pearl can leave 2 ears for each strong fruiting branch, and only 1 ear for medium fruiting branches, without weak branches. Don't be greedy, if you leave too much fruit, the effect may not be good.
The purpose of pruning is to concentrate nutrition to ensure fruit setting and make the ear neat and beautiful, which is especially important for large-grain varieties with many flowers and heavy fruits.
In general, a grape inflorescence with a size of 1 grain usually has 300 ~ 500 florets, and some have more than 500. But in general, the nutrients in the inflorescence are limited, and every small branch in the inflorescence is competing for this limited nutrient, thus causing the dispersion of nutrients. Those flowers that don't get enough nutrition will fall off quickly, so the ears formed are neither neat nor beautiful. If 50% ~ 60% of the flowers are artificially thinned before flowering, so that limited nutrition can be supplied to the rest of the flowers, the flowers can bloom and set fruit normally, and the ears are neat and beautiful, thus enhancing the ornamental effect.
The time of ear pruning can start from before flowering 1 week to flowering. During this period, the secondary spike on the inflorescence was cut off first, then the larger branches on the main spike were cut off 1 ~ 2, then the spike tip of the main spike was cut off 1/4 ~ 1/5, and finally the remaining inflorescence was renovated. For long inflorescence branches, when the whole ear is adversely affected, a small part should be properly thinned, and only 15 ~ 16 twigs should be given to 1 ear to make it conical.
On the basis of pruning the ear, some fruit grains should be properly thinned, and a certain number of fruit grains should be kept in each ear to make them evenly distributed, uniform in size, neat and beautiful. Fruit thinning is mostly carried out when the fruit begins to swell. Generally, the underdeveloped small grains are thinned first, and the fruit grains with the same size are retained, and then the excessively dense and deformed grains are thinned. For large-grain varieties such as Kyoho, only 35 ~ 40 grains can be left per ear, with a maximum of 50 grains; Fujiminori grapes generally only keep 25 ~ 30 fruit grains per ear.
When selecting fruits, 4 fruits are left in the upper 2-3 branches of the ear, 3 fruits in the lower 2-3 branches, 2 fruits in the lower 6-7 branches, and 65,438+0 fruits in the other branches. This kind of ear is neat and beautiful.
(4) In addition to tendrils, under natural conditions, tendrils of grapes can climb trees or other objects and stretch upward to get more light to survive. However, under cultivation conditions, especially in potted plants, tendrils are artificially supported and bound, which simply consume nutrients and water and often entangle fruit ears and new shoots, which has adverse effects on their growth and development. Therefore, the tendrils of potted grapes should be removed in time in combination with operations such as pinching new shoots and tying branches and vines, and the sooner the better, so as to save water and nutrition.
(5) When the new shoots are bound to a certain length, it is necessary to bind the new shoots in time in order to make them extend normally, avoid wind bending, and distribute them evenly on the shelf, and make full use of space and light and heat resources.
The new shoots of potted grapes should also be tied to the needs of modeling, that is, through the new shoots, not only should the grape branches and vines be evenly distributed on the shelf surface, so that they will not block each other, make full use of space, but also be tied into a designed tree shape at the same time, so as to achieve the effect of both producing grapes and enhancing ornamental value.
When tying the new tip, tie it firmly, not too loose or too tight. If the binding is too loose, the friction between the branches and the brackets will damage the branches, lead to the spread of pests and diseases, and weaken the growth of trees. If the binding is too tight, there is no room for the branches to thicken, which will hurt the new shoots, not only affecting the thickening growth of the branches, but also prone to wind folding. In order to bind the grape branches loosely on the bracket, it is best to use parallel "∞" shape when binding. The tether should be moderately elastic and tied with a slipknot to untie it.