Question 1: What is the reason why walnut trees do not bear fruit? 1. Non-variety cultivation. Walnut trees grown from seeds are called seedlings. If a walnut tree does not bear fruit, it may be because the seedlings have not been grafted with superior varieties. If the walnut seeds used are not selected, the walnut trees grown will vary greatly, with varying degrees of good and bad, and some will bear fruit late, with fruits appearing only after about 10 years of planting. 2. Poor site conditions and extensive management. Walnut tree planting conditions are poor, the soil layer is thin, and the soil is poor. The trees are allowed to grow without management, resulting in long-term nutritional deficiencies in the tree body, thin branches, no flower buds, and no fruit. 3. Improper management. Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer and not lacking water will make the tree grow taller, have many and dense branches, poor ventilation and light transmission conditions, form short and medium branches that cannot bear fruit, and produce no fruit. In some cases, in order to plant crops under the tree, all the lower branches of the walnut tree crown are pruned. The number of branches in the entire crown is too few and most of them are leggy branches. The tree is upright, strong at the top and weak at the bottom, and no fruiting branches can be formed. 4. Poor pollination. Walnuts are wind-pollinated tree species. Hermaphrodites are monoecious, but the female and male flowers of most varieties are not at the same time, and there are no other fruit-bearing walnut orchards nearby, resulting in poor pollination and few fruits. Of course, if there are cloudy and rainy days during the pollination period, pollination will also be affected. 5. Serious occurrence of pests and diseases. Walnut trees are damaged by diseases and insect pests, such as bud maggots, which will affect growth and fruiting.

Question 2: What should I do if the walnut tree does not bear fruit? Maybe you are planting an ordinary walnut tree without grafting, right? As the saying goes: If you eat three peaches, plums and four oranges for eight years, you will need to eat walnuts for more than ten years! Today's new varieties are all improved through grafting. As for the saying that walnuts take more than ten years to bear fruit, that is because of the childhood period of walnut seedlings. A walnut tree that has not passed the childhood period will not bear fruit, let alone flowers. If it only blooms but does not bear fruit, it means that it is a child. The flowering period has passed and there may be no pollination due to the lack of flowering and fruiting. There may be no suitable pollinating trees of both male and female flowering periods. It is recommended to observe the flowering status of the pollinating trees.

In addition, the following content is recommended for reference:

If the walnut tree is a seedling, that is, it is sown directly from seeds without grafting, this kind of seedling generally requires 7- It takes 8 years of growth to bear fruit; if it has been grafted, it should be a late-bearing variety. The fruiting period depends on the level of cultivation and management, usually 5-6 years. If you confirm that it has not been grafted, you can transplant it in the spring. It is an excellent variety that can bear fruit in the second year after transplantation.

1. Cultivation techniques:

1. Planting time: Walnuts are suitable for warm, deep soil and good drainage. It grows on sandy soil and black loam soil and should be planted on sunny slopes and leeward locations. To develop walnuts in barren hilly areas, terraces should be built first, large fish scale pits should be dug, and soil and water conservation should be done well. Regarding planting time, plant early after the soil thaws in spring, plant early after the leaves fall and the soil freezes, and plant early after the leaves fall and before the soil freezes. In spring drought areas, autumn planting has a higher survival rate than spring planting. The next spring germinates early and grows vigorously. When planting seedlings in autumn, the soil should be cultivated to prevent the seedlings from drying out. Method: Bend the seedling trunk into a bow shape, fix it, and cultivate the soil, mainly without exposing the trunk. In the spring of the second year, break the ground and straighten the trunk.

2. Planting method: The main root of walnut seedlings is very long. Dig a pit with a depth of 0.8-1 meters and a width of 0.8-1 meters. First fill the bottom of the pit with topsoil and base fertilizer, about 20 centimeters from the surface of the pit entrance. When planting, use scissors to trim the roots of the soaked seedlings whose roots have fully absorbed water, then place them vertically in the pit, with the roots extending to all sides, then fill the soil firmly until it is flush with the ground, then fill it with water and seal the soil.

2. Shaping and pruning:

In order to achieve early fruiting, high yield, stable yield and reasonable pruning of walnuts, it is a very important cultivation technique. The pruning period of walnuts is different from that of ordinary fruit trees. It is done after the fruits are harvested and before the leaves turn yellow. In North China, pruning is best between "white dew" and "cold dew". When pruning at this time, although the temperature is low and the wound heals slowly, the loss of nutrients is small. Since saplings have not produced fruit, they can be pruned early, during the "summer heat" season. Spring pruning is generally carried out around the "beginning of summer". If it is too late, the branches and leaves will be too large and consume too much nutrients, which is not good for the growth of the trees.

1. Plastic pruning of saplings: The main purpose is to cultivate the tree skeleton, lay a good foundation, quickly expand the crown, promote early fruiting, and early high yield. The tree shapes of walnuts are generally sparsely dispersed and natural open-shaped.

(1) Sparse-layered scattered shape: The central leader tree is relatively obvious, with 5-7 main branches divided into 2-3 layers. In this way, the tree shape has many branches, a large crown, and high yield. The focus of shaping is to determine the shape of the tree. The stem height is 1.5-2.5 meters, the soil conditions are poor, the stem should be kept low, and the position and direction of the main branches should be properly configured. The distance between the main branches is 1-1.5 meters, and cannot be too close. The first side branch of the three main branches at the base is about 1.5 meters away from the main trunk. If it is too close, it will form a gate. The distance between the side branches should be narrowed toward the periphery of the crown. Pay attention to maintaining the growth advantage of the central leading branch. Under normal circumstances, the head cannot be changed easily, which is an important feature different from other fruit tree pruning.

(2) Natural open shape: the central leading trunk is not obvious, 2-3 main branches, a 2- or 3-fork structure, in order to accelerate the expansion of the crown of walnut saplings, increase the number of branches, and achieve results To achieve high yields in the early stages, summer pruning and autumn pruning can be used to promote more lateral buds to sprout new branches.

During summer pruning, when the growth of broken branches is about to end, cut off the top 2-3 buds of developing branches over 50 cm in order to promote the germination of side buds and the enrichment of branches, and increase the number of branches in the coming year. Autumn pruning is carried out before the leaves fall. Cut off the unfulfilled top part of the outer-extended developing branches or one-third to one-quarter of the branch length, and make the cut on the full and plump outer buds in the middle and upper parts, so as to expand the crown year by year and produce more developing branches. . Thin 1-year-old branches that are too dense can be appropriately pruned.

2. Pruning of fruit-bearing branches: The top buds of walnut fruit-bearing mother branches are mixed flower buds. Generally, they should not be cut off. Only densely grown thin branches, dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and overlapping branches should be cut off to allow ventilation. Light transmission promotes the growth of fully solid and strong fruiting mother branches and developing branches.

(1) Pruning of fruit-bearing mother branches: The strong branches that have grown for one year on the outside of the crown are often next year’s fruit-bearing mother branches. Generally, they are not pruned short, but when there are too many fruit-bearing mother branches, they will... .>>

Question 3: Why does the family walnut tree not bear fruit? Your walnut tree should be a seedling, which is sown directly from seeds without grafting. This kind of seedling generally takes 7-8 years of growth to bear fruit; if it has been grafted, it should be For late-fruiting varieties, the fruiting period depends on the level of cultivation and management, generally 5-6 years. If you confirm that it has not been grafted, then replace the grafting with high-quality varieties next spring, and the fruiting period will be available in the second year after grafting.

Question 4: What’s wrong with walnut trees that don’t bear fruit? Haha, walnut trees need to be grafted. If they are not grafted, the walnut trees will bear fruit very late, and they are not good fruits.

Question 5: Why is my walnut tree still not bearing fruit even though it is 5 years old? Maybe you are planting an ordinary walnut tree without grafting, right? As the saying goes: If you eat three peaches, plums and four oranges for eight years, it will take you more than ten years to eat walnuts! Today's new varieties are all improved through grafting. As for the saying that walnuts take more than ten years to bear fruit, that is because of the childhood period of walnut seedlings. A walnut tree that has not passed the childhood period will not bear fruit, let alone flowers. If it only blooms but does not bear fruit, it means that it is a child. The flowering period has passed and there may be no pollination due to the lack of flowering and fruiting. There may be no suitable pollinating trees of both male and female flowering periods. It is recommended to observe the flowering status of the pollinating trees.

Question 6: My walnut tree is eight years old, why doesn’t it bear the same saplings as it did in that year? I guess you planted it in the north, so it’s normal for it not to bear fruit in 5 years, or maybe you didn’t plant enough 5 years at all. Years, it’s the sum of the age someone said when you bought the seedlings and your current age. Generally, walnut saplings begin to bear fruit only after 5 years, but they cannot be retained. It is estimated that the fruit will be ready in another two years. In addition, the main trunk of the tree should be more than 10 centimeters now.

Question 7: Why does the walnut tree not bear fruit after being planted for several years? It takes four years for the saplings to bear fruit. It is very likely that there is a lack of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer

Question 8: What is the reason why my walnut tree has not produced fruit for 5 years. Some people say: It is not grafted well. Yeah? In recent years, grain has become less and less valuable. With the strong support of the government, more and more people are planting walnut trees. Walnut trees are easy to manage, resistant to storage, and have high returns. They are deeply loved by growers, but many people plant them. Problems have also arisen. Many farmers have reported that their walnut trees do not bear fruit. Let me analyze the reasons for the fruitlessness:

1. Non-variety cultivation.

Walnut trees grown from seeds are called seedlings. If a walnut tree does not bear fruit, it may be because the seedlings have not been grafted with superior varieties. If the walnut seeds used are not selected, the walnut trees grown will vary greatly, with varying degrees of good and bad, and some will bear fruit late, with fruits appearing only after about 10 years of planting.

2. Poor site conditions and extensive management.

Walnut tree planting conditions are poor, the soil layer is thin, and the soil is poor. The trees are allowed to grow without management, resulting in long-term nutritional deficiencies in the tree body, thin branches, no flower buds, and no fruit.

3. Improper management methods.

Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer without lack of water will make the tree grow taller, have many and dense branches, poor ventilation and light transmission conditions, and form short and medium branches that cannot bear fruit and will not bear fruit. In some cases, all the lower branches of the walnut tree crown are pruned in order to interplant crops under the tree. There are too few branches in the entire crown and most of them are leggy branches. The tree is upright, strong at the top and weak at the bottom, and no fruiting branches can be formed.

4. Poor pollination.

Walnut is a wind-pollinated tree species. Monoecious plants are monoecious, but the female and male flowering periods of most varieties are inconsistent, and there are no other fruit-bearing walnut orchards nearby, resulting in poor pollination and few fruits. Of course, if there are cloudy and rainy days during the pollination period, pollination will also be affected.

5. Serious occurrence of pests and diseases.

Walnut trees damaged by diseases and insect pests will affect their growth and fruiting.

So how to deal with the above situation?

1. If you buy seedlings that are not of the same variety, you need to reshape them. Choose a reliable company. It is best to visit the company on site and buy its scions or do door-to-door grafting.

2. In case of improper management, you need to know more about walnut tree planting and management, prune and shape it properly, and apply less nitrogen fertilizer to control the growth. For specific pruning methods, please contact the author for details

3. Some old varieties planted are monoecious but have inconsistent flowering periods, resulting in poor pollination, which requires artificial pollination. Apply boron fertilizer during the fruit-bearing period to increase the fruit-setting rate.

4. Early detection and early treatment of pests and diseases.

Based on the above, the most important thing for planting walnut trees is the selection of varieties. Be sure to choose varieties that are disease-resistant and easy to manage. If you don’t know how to manage, choose a regular company that will provide you with technical support. In order to help those who have not yet planted seedlings choose good varieties of seedlings, I have the following suggestions:

1. Suitable trees in the right place for planting

There are many varieties of walnuts, which can be divided into early fruiting and late fruiting. The difference between thin skin and thick skin affects the taste. When planting, we must first consider the ecological adaptability of local varieties, whether the varieties have passed national identification, and whether the varieties have been introduced locally and perform well. The next step is to see if it is an early-fruiting variety? Is it a thin-skinned walnut? How is the output? How does it taste? Is it a dwarf one or a tall one? Good high-quality varieties: the single fruit must exceed 12g, the shell thickness should not exceed 1.2mm, the kernel yield rate should be above 60%, and the color of the walnut kernel should be light (the lighter, the better).

2. How to distinguish genuine grafted seedlings from fake ones

In the past two years, there have been more and more fake grafted seedlings. We locally call them fake stoma seedlings, or fake grafted seedlings. Most of these seedlings are made from ordinary seedlings (either early seedlings or late seedlings). Use a knife to cut four slits directly around a certain sprout, cut off the upper part of the sprout, and then add it to the sprout. Plastic film was wrapped around the sprouts, making them look like grafted seedlings. In fact, this is just an ordinary seedling or an ordinary early seedling, and its quality is incomparable to that of real grafted seedlings. The difference between the upper and lower colors of the grafting interface: The upper and lower colors of the grafting interface must not be exactly the same. If they are exactly the same, it is fake. The grafting survival rates in nurseries that are very high are basically fake. For a real grafting nursery, excluding those that cannot survive grafting and those that are too small for grafting, the general grafting survival rate should be below 80% to be considered reasonable. Therefore, seedlings are divided into cheap and expensive ones

3. Look at the strength of the company

If you have the conditions to buy walnut seedlings, you still need to conduct an on-site inspection to see the size and strength of the company. See if it is a mature company. It has been making walnut seedlings for several years. How big is the nursery base? There is a nursery base of dozens of acres or one or two hundred acres. There is no need to consider this. Just imagine, just this small nursery base. If there are hundreds of thousands of seedlings and there are a few big customers, you can imagine where the seedlings will come from. Next, we need to look at the demonstration garden. What is the scale and results of the demonstration garden? Does the company have mature technology and after-sales service?

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Question 9: Why does the 8-year-old walnut tree not bear fruit? What should I do? Haha, walnut trees need to be grafted. If they are not grafted, the walnut trees will bear fruit very late, and they are not good fruits.

Question 10: Why don’t walnut trees not bear fruit? Ungrafted walnut trees take about 7-8 years to bear fruit.