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Question: Where is the bottom line for photographers to fix films?
In those days, how were these photos taken? All the photos were taken on film, in black and white and in color. At that time, computers were not popular, digital cameras and Photoshop retouching technology did not appear, and photographers believed that light was supreme. Some people like to use strong light (such as direct sunlight), while others like softer light (such as reflected light). For me, it is important to grasp their essence through their eyes, their bones and the time I spend with them. Most of the photos in the book are published for the first time, because they are actually the rest of the star photos I took for the magazine. At that time, I often received the task of shooting musicians and actors, usually to promote their upcoming concerts or upcoming new films. The big star in the photo has just emerged. Therefore, this book records a little-known history. So, are you against computer retouching? J.R.: I have no objection to computer retouching. But when I saw those negatives and samples, I felt that the characters in the photos were beautiful, just like in front of my camera, and there was no need to beautify them by retouching. What does it matter if there are a few wrinkles on your face? Through this photo album, I also want to show people how charming and true it is to omit those artificial false beautification portraits. Nowadays, excessive retouching makes photography more and more fake. Johnny Rozsa Works B: How much influence does B:Photoshop have on fashion photography? J.R.: The appearance and popularity of Photoshop completely subverted the photography industry. In my opinion, art directors and film repairers have replaced photographers to some extent and become dreamers in the fields of commercial photography and fashion magazines. Photographers just become the tools of creative directors, and all they do is put the pre-set pictures into practice. With the help of photoshop, fashion designers can now replace another person's head with another person's head at will, change the color of the model's hair or eyes, and the color of clothes, all with just a few buttons. Today, no photographer will hand in photos without computer processing, which is the general trend. B: Although your photography style is very old-fashioned, we also notice that you have a very cool personal website. In this way, it is impossible for any photographer to turn a deaf ear to the new technology. I like all kinds of new technologies. As long as you sit at your desk, you can improve your work, which is of course a very pleasant thing. I set up my own website. Now people can create an atmosphere on the website to set off their works. It is necessary for photographers to keep learning new techniques. The days of visiting the artistic director with a thick portfolio are over. Now everyone just wants to see your personal homepage. B: Actually, it is a long-standing tradition for photographers to retouch photos. Even before the invention of computers, photographers used various manual methods to decorate photos. In fact, retouching is a very common step in photography. Do you agree? J.R.: When I was growing up, one of the photographers who had the greatest influence on me was George Hurrell. In the heyday of the old Hollywood studio, he was an excellent photographer. He often shoots Hollywood stars such as marlene dietrich and joan crawford. He will add long and dense black eyelashes to them, or modify the shape of their lips. Indeed, retouching is an indispensable tool in portrait photography. Johnny Rozsa works B: You were engaged in painting in your early years, and then you picked up a camera. To some extent, retouching is a bit like painting, don't you think? J.R.: In the past, portraits were all painted with brushes and pigments. In France before the Revolution, great men like Marie Antoinette always showed their best in the works of painters, which was completely different from me. In fact, there are fleas hidden under those wigs. Their teeth are rotten and their bodies are dirty. But in portraits, they are always so dazzling. So is photography. I believe that portrait photos should present the best side of a person as much as possible. However, I also believe that there are right and wrong ways to achieve all this. Sometimes, I look at an advertisement and think it is a piece of plastic. Everyone has pores and wrinkles. In real life, no one can look like the cover girl of In Style magazine, right? B: But this is what many women really dream of. In America, people have a strange obsession with young appearance. Last time I saw the new movie burlesque starring Cher, her skin, eyes and hair all looked so perfect. A 65-year-old woman can't have such a beautiful appearance without the help of a soft-focus lens and a lot of plastic surgery. I didn't mean to judge her right or wrong, but I was really surprised. People spend a lot of money to control their diet, buy cosmetics, dye their hair and practice hard in the gym. I think western women (even men) wear too much makeup, too much blush and lip gloss. Perhaps ordinary people's eyes have been trained to see themselves as bright and flawless as magazine covers or HDTV. Johnny Rosa works B: Who is your favorite fashion photographer today? I like Steven Klein. He has a pair of wonderful eyes, and the photos he takes are sexy and humorous. I also appreciate Peter Lindbergh's works, especially the black and white photos he took in natural light. Besides, I think steven meisel has a steady stream of creativity and sense of humor. B: So, what do you think of Motaras? What about Marcus Piggot and Pascal Dankin, the most famous filmmakers in new york? Some works by Mert & Marcus are too easily deformed for me. Of course, I also appreciate them. Their works are enlightening after all. Dan Jin is a master of film repair. He is the best. As I said before, I have no objection to retouching, but I don't like retouching badly. Dan Jin is very clever and has a pair of sharp eyes. Proficient in art history and human body, with business mind and strong communication skills. He can always grasp the photographer's ideas correctly. I admire him very much. B: So, how do you define the scale of computer retouching? What is a bad retouching? J.R.: In this era when everyone likes to take photos with iPhone, everyone wants to look more beautiful. Who doesn't want to get rid of dark circles and decrees? Who wants to see their big pores and blue veins stand out in the photo? Even I don't want this. I also want to retouch my photos, but it's enough to make me look better than in real life. And retouching away from reality is not good. Editing is inevitable, but now many photographers have gone too far. The key is to strike a balance. To grasp the personality temperament of the subject, at least leave a few laugh lines and a few strands of hair. I have a good friend. She is an 83-year-old German woman, a survivor of the Nazi Holocaust in World War II. There are countless wrinkles on her face and all her teeth have fallen out. But she has a pair of beautiful blue eyes, very interesting and kind. Therefore, even with so many physical defects, she is still an excellent subject and very photogenic. There is too much history and pain on her face. If I trim all her wrinkles and make her lips full, her whole personality will be lost.