Reasonable pruning of Shatangju to improve ventilation and light transmission

1. Spring pruning of fruit-bearing trees:

First, rough pruning before flowering, and thin pruning in March Mainly, according to 3, take 1, take 2 from 5 to thin the shoots, cut off fruit handles, dead branches, branches lightly affected by frost, branches with diseases and insect pests; in dense planting gardens, according to permanent plants and temporary plants, adopt "one promotion, one control, one advance, one control". "Retreat" pruning solves the problems of cross-canopy canopy in the entire orange orchard, difficulty in pest control and poor fruit coloring; appropriately thins out the crowded backbone branches and "opens skylights" to solve the problem of reasonable tree distribution and light transmission.

The second is fine pruning during the budding stage (also called re-pruning before flowering). Pruning is based on flowers and yield is determined by cutting. The main purpose is to remove leafless flowers, deformed flowers, dew-styled flowers, and short stems during the bud stage. It has long flower bud branches and is over 7 years old. A full orchard requires 25,000 to 30,000 fruits per mu.

2. Spring pruning of young trees. For new gardens, pruning should be done at regular stems, and for 2-3 year-old trees, pruning should be done by short cuts and thinning. In addition to appropriate pruning of overly dense branches, the inner branches and weaker branches in the middle and lower crowns should generally be retained.

3. Prune frozen trees. The current freeze on citrus is mainly related to last autumn's heavy rainfall and improper fertilization by citrus farmers. During spring pruning, those that are lightly exposed to frost can be pruned normally. Trees that are affected by frost or are more susceptible to disease can be fertilized first (spray the leaves with leaf hexacin 1:1500, once to 3 times in 7 days), manually clear the garden, postpone pruning until after germination, and seal the cuts with Cut the oil to facilitate rapid restoration of the canopy and reduce the repeated transmission of pathogenic bacteria.

4. Pruning of particularly early-maturing trees. For young and mature trees, branches are generally not cut off. The main methods are hanging, pulling, supporting branches and topping to remove excessive and overly dense spring shoots. For fruit-bearing trees, all summer shoots are removed and long shoots are topping to promote early autumn. The shoots should be thinned out and the flowers and fruits that are too dense should be thinned, and the weak branches after fruiting should be shortened in time to promote the hair growth of new shoots and balance reproductive growth and vegetative growth.

Summer pruning: mainly to remove buds and shoots. The first time is carried out in June, mainly by wiping buds to control the germination and growth of summer shoots, improve fruit set, and promote fruit growth.

The second time should be completed before July 20th. It mainly cuts off fallen flower and fruit branches, leafless branches and tops them. Then the shoots can be planted. Dry land can be planted early and paddy fields can be planted late to promote fruit growth. And the neat germination of late summer shoots and early autumn shoots.

Autumn pruning: Carry out in September, by topping and wiping buds, to promote early autumn shoot maturity and prevent autumn shoots from freezing.

Winter pruning: carried out in November and December, mainly pruning the garden to remove diseased branches, dead branches, and cross branches.