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How to prune the vines after flowering, and what should I pay attention to? How can we make grapes grow well? Please speak in a popular way, too professional to understand? (native products)
(1) The effect of picking new shoots and fruiting branches is usually the most obvious 3 ~ 7 days before flowering or at the early flowering stage, and most varieties in our city are picked in mid-June. Leave 2 ~ 3 leaves in front of the inflorescence for big leaf varieties, 3 ~ 4 leaves for small leaf varieties, and cut off the rest. Generally, after the end of June, 65,438+00 ~ 65,438+05 leaves are left in the vegetative branches, and 65,438+05 ~ 20 leaves are left in the extended branches in July and August. Nucleation is beneficial to the maturity of branches and vines and the differentiation of flower buds, which lays the foundation for high yield in the next year.

(2) As a result of secondary shoot treatment, the secondary shoot below the branch spike was removed from the base, and 1 ~ 2 leaves were left on the upper part for coring. Remove 3 ~ 4 secondary branches from the base of developing branches, and leave 12 leaves on the upper part for coring. Before flowering, the secondary branches in the middle and lower parts of the vine have sprouted and grown. Therefore, the secondary branches are treated at the same time as the bearing branches are denucleated, that is, the secondary branches are pinched for the first time, and then pinched every 10 ~ 15 days, which needs to be done 3 ~ 5 times a year.

(3) Defibrillate inflorescences, pinch off inflorescence tips properly, and remove too many or poorly developed inflorescences, so that the remaining inflorescences can get more nutrition and the quality of spikes can be improved. Some varieties have large inflorescences, but the fruit setting rate is low. If the fruiting branches are picked in time, the small inflorescence is thinned or the inflorescence tip is pinched, the density of the ear can be effectively improved.

(4) Tie the vines and remove the tendrils. When the new buds grow to about 40 cm, start to tie vines to facilitate ventilation and light transmission, and avoid strong winds blowing off the new buds. When tying tendrils, remove them at the same time, because tendrils not only waste nutrients, but also entangle branches and spikes everywhere, hindering their growth. After the tendrils are lignified, it will bring difficulties to winter shears, so they should be pulled out at any time when they are tender.

(5) Cutting off the root of the scion When the plant interface is flush with the ground, the scion is easy to take root, and the root system on the scion occurs in large numbers, which will reduce the cold resistance of the plant. Therefore, in July and August, the buried scion was torn and the root produced by the scion was completely cut off from the base. There is no need to carry the cut soil back to the base of the plant to avoid rooting again after rain or irrigation.

(6) In autumn, after cutting off new shoots and coloring deciduous fruits, in order to better and faster promote the ripening of fruit ears and branches, and reduce the occurrence of diseases, the excessively long part at the top of new shoots can be cut off by 20-30 cm. Cut off leaves with reduced assimilation such as aging, injury, pests and diseases, yellowing, etc. It is also conducive to ventilation and light transmission and fruit ripening, and can promote the ripening of branches and vines.