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What are the characteristics of red Fuji apple pruning?
(1) tree selection

Red Fuji with rootstock should be in the form of sparse layer or small crown. Dwarfing and close planting can be in the form of free spindles. The main branches should be cut short normally every year, the auxiliary branches should be lightly cut, and the upright and competitive branches should be thinned or leveled.

(2) Young trees

(1) Cut lightly, cut less, and properly drain the branches. The extended branches should be cut off when the middle part is full of buds, and some vigorous upright branches and dense branches should be leveled, while the oblique branches and drooping branches can be kept motionless for a long time, slowly released for several years, and uniaxially extended to relieve the strength and increase the proportion of medium and short branches.

(2) Adjust the angle, and control the strong Fuji tree to be strong and weak. Therefore, the lower branches with large opening angle should be raised and more branches should be left to encourage the trend; The upper branches should be inclined, the redundant upper strong branches should be sparse, and the useful ones should be leveled to promote their early flowering and early fruiting.

③ Straighten out the relationship between main branch and side branch. The lateral branches of Fuji trees have strong germination ability and vigorous growth, and often compete with the main branches. To avoid this situation, the lateral branches must choose the anticline direction, extend the branch residence time if necessary, or widen the branch angle to make it lower in height and weaker in strength than the main branch.

(4) On the basis of strengthening summer pruning (wringing, leveling, coring, peeling) to promote flowers, carry out light and long top grafting and appropriate thinning. Except for the full buds of the backbone branches at all levels, the remaining branches should be put slowly and leveled as far as possible, and attention should be paid to thinning the upright branches, competitive branches or leveling to promote flowers.

(3) Trees at the first fruit-bearing stage

(1) Continue to cultivate backbone branches, and pay attention to adjusting the angle, the number of branches and the master-slave relationship, so as to make the skeleton open and firm, with heavy load.

(2) Cultivate branches and increase production year by year. For strong branches, the top branches are thinned and the rest branches are not cut; Oblique branches and transverse branches are released slowly, and extend uniaxially year after year, which makes the strong branches on them thinner, some upright branches are short, and 3 ~ 4 leaves are left in the new shoots during the growth period. Before germination, properly carve buds on the long branches, and trim too many flower buds, flowers and young fruits on the bundle branches, which are generally not easily retracted to increase the leaf area and prepare for branching. Young trees with trunk circumference 10 cm or more should be peeled to promote flowering, and budding branches and auxiliary branches should be leveled in autumn. After induction, the tree vigor is moderate and robust, and the yield increases year by year.

③ Early high yield parameters

The first fruit period in dry week is 20 cm, and the uniformity of garden appearance is 100%.

The number of branches is 667 meters, and the number of branches is 20,000 to 40,000. Dwarf rootstocks are 3-6 years old and arbor rootstocks are 5-8 years old.

The annual growth of new shoots is about 30 cm.

The ratio of long branches, middle branches and short branches is 2 ∶ 1 ∶ 7, and the early capped branches (before the end of June) account for about 80% of the total branches. The ratio of flowers to leaves and buds is1:4-5, branches (more than 5 leaves): fruits = 5-6:1,leaves: fruits = 50-60:1.

Yield and quality 667 m2 Yield: 300-500 kg arbor, dwarfed by 500-1000kg; The weight of single fruit is 200 ~ 300g, and the first-class fruit is over 85%.

(4) Trees in full fruit.

(1) Tree height control should be limited to 3.5 ~ 4m. The main branch of the first floor is 0.6 ~ 1 m from the ground. The base angle of the main branch is about 60, and 4 ~ 6 branches of the main branch left in the young tree period will be gradually eliminated, and the main branch will be fixed, and the rest will be reformed or thinned year by year. In order to make the canopy fully exposed to light, pay attention to making the main branches in the south lower and the main branches in the north higher. The middle main branch is selected in the south, and the lowest main branch is left in the north.

② The lateral branches should be kept inclined. The lateral branches growing from the lower part of the main and lateral branches droop, which is beneficial to stabilize the tree potential and fruit; Once the lateral branches become weak, they will retract to improve the angle and glow with strength. When the branch spacing is small, thin and drooping branches should be thinned.

(3) The opening angles of the main branches and the lateral branches should be open, 70 ~ 80, extending around. Auxiliary branches can be pulled to 90, but at this stage, they should be cleaned up and reformed year by year.

(4) To improve the density of trees and branches under strong light, the auxiliary branches should be thinned first, especially the "door" branches at the base of the main branches should be treated as soon as possible to avoid the phenomenon of pinching. The remaining branches are still lightly cut. When the tree is stable, leave fewer branches; For the full crown, the dense branches and long branches near the trunk 1 m and the smooth and usable upright branches that affect the fruit coloring should be removed. Orchards with high planting density can be thinned appropriately, and there should be a channel of 1 ~ 1.5 meters between rows, so that trees do not cross. When the height of the tree is more than 5 meters, according to the requirements of the tree shape, it needs to fall down and be willing to solve the top illumination.

⑤ When pruning the cultivated branches, thinning is the main method, with less pruning and more spreading, thinning the dense branches in time, controlling the long branches and supporting the spreading branches. Long branches with axillary flower buds can bear fruit when they are young. According to the size of the space and the strength of the branches, the aging branches that have been bearing fruit for many years should be appropriately retracted. Some branches have been girdled and twisted at the base, and can be pulled out from the base after bearing fruit. Because the medium and long branches of Fuji bear better fruit than the short branches, the branches with stable strength should be lightly cut and more medium and long branches should be made. However, fragile branches should be cut harder than other varieties to strengthen the tree. Attention should be paid to adjusting the flower bud retention rate and flower-leaf bud ratio of branches and the whole tree, so as to make all kinds of branches distribute reasonably, make full use of the fruits of 6-7-year-old branches, and update the rejuvenated and aged branches in time.

⑥ On the basis of strengthening artificial pollination and insect pollination, strictly thinning flowers and fruits, strictly controlling the number of flowers and fruits, and advocating keeping single fruit, central fruit and drooping fruit to ensure stable production and high quality.

⑦ Winter felling will be carried out in the easy-to-peel area from 1 1 to 65438+February. At this time, the soil has not yet frozen, and the water loss of the saw mouth and the shear mouth can be replenished in time, because the temperature is low and the water loss is less. Because useless branches are cut early, water evaporation naturally decreases, and the water content of branches is 2% ~ 3% higher than that of late winter cutting, which is beneficial to water conservation of overwintering trees and reduces the occurrence of leaf peeling in early spring.