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How to Graft Walnut Trees
Grafting method of walnut tree:

Split with 1 to bite the rootstock and insert the scion. Splitting is the main method of branch grafting in spring.

1) rootstock cutting. Saw off the rootstock where the bark is straight and scar-free, smooth the wound with a knife, and then split 1 4-5 cm deep vertical seam in the middle of the rootstock.

2) Cutting the scion. Leave 2-3 buds on the scion, and cut 1 knife on the left and right of the lower part to form a wedge shape. The wedge-shaped outer side of the lower part of the scion is connected with the rootstock cambium. There is no internal connection. The cutting length of the scion is 4-5cm. The cutting surface should be smooth and the angle should be appropriate, so that the rootstock and scion at the interface can be butted from top to bottom.

3) Join. The key is to align the cambium on both sides, and it is best to make the cambium on both sides of the scion face each other. If the two sides cannot be aligned, keep one side of the forming layer aligned. Be careful not to insert all the wounds of the scion into the incision, exposing more than 0.5 cm to facilitate wound healing.

4) dress. For medium or thin rootstocks, insert the scion of 1 into the split (preferably sealed with wax), and then tie the joint with a plastic strip 4 cm wide and 30-40 cm long. When dressing, all cracks, wounds and exposed parts should be bandaged and tied tightly.

2.2 Square grafting When grafting, the buds taken are square, and a square bark is taken from the rootstock, so it is called square bud grafting. Square budding contact surface is large, which is suitable for walnuts that are not easy to germinate and germinate easily after grafting.

1) rootstock cutting. When grafting, compare the length of the incision between the rootstock and the scion, and carve the mark with a knife. Then cut a knife against the xylem, up and down, left and right, and then pick out and remove the root bark with the tip of the knife.

2) Join. Put the bud into the rootstock incision so that it is just closed with the rootstock incision. If the scion bud is smaller, it doesn't matter: if the scion bud is too big to insert, it must be cut to make it the right size.

3) dress. Tie the joint tightly with a plastic strip with a width of1-1.5cm and a length of 30-40cm to expose the bud and petiole.

2.3 Double-door sprouting and single-door sprouting pry open the bark on both sides of the rootstock incision, just like opening two doors, which is called double-door sprouting. Single-door budding is just to pry open the bark on one side of the incision. Other grafting methods are the same. Suitable for grafting varieties that are difficult to survive. After the grafting survives, it can germinate that year.

1) rootstock cutting. Make the length of the bud piece equal to the length of the rootstock incision. Cut the rootstock up and down at the smooth bark with an L-knife, so that the width exceeds the width of the bud appropriately. Then cut the L knife longitudinally in the center to make the incision H-shaped. If it is a single door, cut 1 knife longitudinally on one side of the xylem. Then pry open the bark to form a double door or a single door.

2) Cutting the scion. Carve an L knife around the scion bud and take out the square bud.

3) Join. Put the scion into the incision of the rootstock, and perform double-door budding, that is, cover the left and right sides of the scion bud sheet; Single-door bud, that is, pry open the rootstock skin to cover the scion bud, and the bud should be close to the pried side.

4) dress. Bind the buds with plastic strips with a width of1-1.5cm and a length of 30-40cm to expose the buds and petioles.

In addition, after the walnut tree is grafted, after the scion spreads its leaves, it is necessary to wrap the wound with plastic strips when the "drained" wound no longer flows out, so as to promote wound healing.