Lead: 20 1 1 Spring and Summer Fashion Week has come to a perfect end, but the attention paid to this fashion feast has not stopped there. We will take you back to London and new york to feel and taste the designers' infinite wonderful ideas again.
Hannah Marshall 20 1 1 London Spring and Summer Show 20 1 1 Spring and Summer Fashion Week has ended perfectly, but colorful Chinese clothes are still all over the network, just like the back of the last model who left in high heels on the show seems to remain in people's minds. Looking back this autumn, whether it is the London show that realized the collision between ancient palaces and modern atmosphere, or the new york show that emphasized pragmatism, it left us enough topic space to discuss and take stock of this spring and summer fashion week.
London after the retreat of the avant-garde
On the occasion of the opening of London Fashion Week, the memorial service for British designer Alexander McQueen was also held. Compared with the other three fashion weeks, London has always considered itself avant-garde. Even though McQueen doesn't perform in London, the British are proud to have such a talented designer. He is the backbone of the British avant-garde trend. But perhaps at this moment, we should not only mourn for our old friends, but also feel sad for the avant-garde temperament of London Fashion Week.
Alternative nobility, retro concept
Christopher Kane 2065438+01London Spring/Summer Show christopher kane, a Scotsman, chose a series loyal to the royal family and inspired by Princess Margaret, rendering the rice flower fabric in Liang Cheng green and orange, blending the classical with the modern. Although these fashions are beautiful and dazzling, they remind people of Prada's design, far from Kane's futuristic sense of belonging to the post-90 s. Fortunately, he found a transit point in futuristic printing and retro embroidery, which also lit up the whole fashion show.
Sexy and neutral style is popular.
Burberry prosser 20 1 1 London Spring/Summer Fashion Week is one of the highlights of London Fashion Week. Burberry prosser contributed several topics this time. The efficient and comprehensive communication forms of live model catwalk, off-site projection live broadcast, and simultaneous live broadcast of 20 specialty stores around the world not only let us see coats and trousers covered with rivets, but also let us see high heels that even models can't walk in, rather than just a model taking off high heels and walking out of the audience, which is rare in the history of fashion shows. Even with the fashion decorated with rivets, women are as strong as soldiers, and women still can't control these high heels as men do with motorcycles.
Today, paul smith is no longer the focus of London Fashion Week, but it is also a bright spot that cannot be ignored. At least his sexy tailored suit pants are still the taste choice of many professional women. This season, he blended the autumn colors of Khaki, Pulan and Burgundy red wine into the metallic luster fabric, giving women more space to match between seasons.
Three-dimensional tailoring wears feminine charm
Kate Phelan, the fashion director of British Vogue magazine, described Erdam's new collection as "a gorgeous tea party in the modern world". His design can arouse every woman's desire, using lace, silk and embroidery. The red lace skirt is presented to us in the simplest and most tense way. The matching of transparent silk blouse and flowered trousers reminds people of Alice in Wonderland. His design can really make people forget the boundaries between age and identity.
Antonio berardi loves white, and this time is no exception. All kinds of white suits and jumpsuits start with upturned piping, highlighting the delicate curves of women. Then the black dress, like an angel at night. Without too feminine decorations such as embroidery or beading, tulle is the only finishing touch.
Peter Pillot, whose selling point is gorgeous printing, started with a series of three-dimensional cut white long skirts, and then used pants embedded with printed fabrics to draw heavy colors. Of course, this so-called thick ink is only relative to the light main color of this season. Crossing is the key word of Pilotto's design this season. From the overlapping of tailoring, to the crossing of fabrics, to the ingenious transition of colors, Pilotto found a perfect fit in the comparison.
New york, a pragmatism that keeps pace with the times.
Calvin Klein20 1 1 new york In spring and summer, when Europeans held fashion shows in ancient palaces, new york people simply set up big tents in Bryant Park, which also gave new york fashion a relaxed and pleasant mood like a picnic. The spirit of putting practicality first keeps pace with the times, and Lincoln Center has become the main venue of the new fashion show. Here, the fashion editor comes to the security checkpoint with the barcode in the mail. Without paper invitations and seat cards, fashion editors are obviously a little uneasy. Designers included are reluctant to part with the big tent that has appeared twice a year since 1993, but after using the advanced equipment of Lincoln Center, most people keep up with the times. There is a high-speed wireless network here, which is undoubtedly a great progress for fashionistas who always need to upload information to the company or Weibo () to share with fans.
Cathy Horyn, a fashion critic in The New York Times, is full of praise for Calvin Klein designed by Francesco Costa: "Costa has given fashion all-round expression space, and there is a feeling that there is too much added value. There is no feeling that the design is too hard, and the design is reflected in leaving no traces. " Pants and long skirts are Calvin Klein's favorite. The pockets hidden inside are not only convenient but also add a sense of styling, which may be the reason why professional women are loyal to him.
The long-awaited tom ford women's wear almost stole half of the New York Fashion Week. There is no fashion show, only the display in the Madison Avenue store. The more private, the more curious. In the overexposed fashion world, this opposite approach is more appreciated. Photographer terry richardson, who is famous for taking outstanding photos, was invited to capture every amazing moment. Julianne Moore, emmanuelle seigner and lou doillon, which are famous for their tastes, have not missed the exhibition "Perfect Combination of Classic Hollywood Temperament and Saint Laurent Style". From the end of February next year, these "mysterious" fashions will appear in tom ford stores all over the world, including the store that just opened in the center of Shanghai.
Standing on the giant's shoulders may be able to see further, but whether you can climb the giant's body is the key first step. Reed krakoff, the current designer of Helmut Lang, is facing such a dilemma. "I want to make clothes look more amazing and 3D." His understanding of design was not praised. Suzy Menkes, a senior critic of the International Herald Tribune, hit the nail on the head: "He may have used the right fabrics and colors, but on the whole, it is not popular. The problem lies in the shape! Every single item is well designed, but it is obviously a bit far-fetched. "
Classic reappearance
Marc Jacobs20 1 1 Design of Altuzarra in new york Spring and Summer This New York Fashion Week is a practical version of the original tribal style in the future. Joseph altuzarra said backstage that these tribal styles, the influence of electronic elements and the inspiration of youth party costumes, which combined 1960, all came from the Internet, and he "smashed" them together.
At the birthday party in Cannes, naomi campbell, marc jacobs saw girls in long skirts. He seems to have returned to the1970s, which is why he gave such a performance. Of course, this show will also remind us of Louis Vuitton's autumn and winter series, high-waisted long skirts and trousers, and off-the-shoulder clothes; Exaggerated decorative patterns from hair to neck, from waist to handbag are the key points that cannot be missed.
Narciso rodriguez used a series of adjectives to describe his design "Happy, sexy, sweet, fragile and sad, which are closely related to my heart." He went back to his early 1990 to look for that bright spot. A series of long skirts, or high slits or ankle-length, make a woman's figure in the skirt? Introverted beauty is born in swaying.
More mature design concept
Tommy hilfiger 2011tommy hilfiger, who has been the ambassador of folk costumes in new york in spring and summer, is particularly happy when he enters the 25th year. "I am ready to face the next 25 years. If Gio, Carl and Ralph can do it, so can I! " Let's take a look at this memorable moment. What has Hilfe brought us? It is still the American preppie route he has been pursuing for many years, the same red, white and blue plaid leisure suit, but this time they have all grown up. Whether it is color or collocation, the collocation of long skirt and belt makes the sense of maturity jump.
Alexander wang "I always push forward and look for new ideas." This time, black was completely removed from the design, because the designer wanted to bring optimistic and pure fashion series to the world. Compared with the high street fashion that made him famous at one fell swoop before, he seems to grow up very fast, and the feeling of sports is still there, but everything makes people feel sloppy and powerless.
Diane von Furstenberg, the godmother of the fashion industry in New York State, found Ivan Misperera to replace Nathan Jenden as her right-hand man. For this upgraded DVF, the designer himself said in a romantic tone, "This is like an interesting encounter." The wavy pattern and geometric zigzag are very visual, and the combination of black, white and yellow emphasizes the maturity of DVF women.
A New Interpretation of Gorgeous "Chinese Style"
Alberta Ferretti's Philosophy is a little careless, and it is taken as a beach by Alberta Ferretti who moved from Milan to new york to watch the show. This time, the brand set its sights on China. A series of elements, such as cheongsam, dragon pattern, hat and bright yellow, are considered to be/kloc-the feeling of foreigners holding binoculars in the early 9 th century, which is neither foreign nor Chinese.
The magical encounter between clothing and sculpture
Victoria beckham dress 20 1 1 victoria beckham, who was out of control in new york's spring and summer fashion design, introduced her design appropriately: "I focus on contours and curves, just like Brancusi's sculpture." Without her iconic tunic skirt, the abdomen and waist are still the parts she wants to emphasize, whether through collage tailoring or belt outline.
Phillip Lim and Beckham, two new recruits, found the figure of * * on Brancusi's sculpture. Whether it is a metallic brown collocation or a clearly cut skirt, there are staggered lines jumping in the middle. Both Lim's design itself and his design style are becoming more and more mature.