I heard that there are many kinds of pasta in Yinchuan, such as minced mutton noodles, wild mushrooms, raw noodles, wormwood noodles, rubbed noodles, lamb chops ... you can count a lot by counting them.
Buyi Band, who was founded in Yinchuan, once sang in their songs: "Go home. When you are in trouble, mom will make your favorite mutton noodles. "
As a northerner who loves noodles, I can understand this kind of food related to homesickness, just as I can't recommend a decent bowl of noodles to my friends who come to Beijing.
Fortunately, the standard of Yinchuan noodle restaurant is not inferior to that of Beijing.
The "mutton noodle" mentioned in the song is the mutton noodle that Ningxia people can cook.
The food in every place has its own "background color". For Yinchuan people, "minced mutton" is the "changeable background color" of noodles. It is a common practice in the north to cut mutton, potatoes, fungus, carrots, tomatoes and tofu into pieces, fry them until they are fragrant, and pour boiling water into them to make handmade noodles.
On this basis, add wild purple mushrooms in Helan Mountain, that is, wild mushroom noodles; If mutton is replaced with lamb chops and noodles are replaced with noodles, it is lamb chops with small Lamian Noodles; When using wormwood seeds to make noodles, wild wormwood seed powder and alkaline noodles are added to make the noodles taste like miscellaneous grains, and the noodles are elastic and tough.
On the western edge of xingqing district, it is the old city of Yinchuan, and it is also the border where the most delicious food is concentrated. Behind my hotel, there is a clean noodle restaurant named "Yu Lian". The boss is a warm and hearty girl, and the noodle restaurant has spread to her, which is the third generation.
"Help yourself, my noodles are delicious, but the most famous one is mutton noodles with minced meat."
When it was topped, there was attractive red oil in the soup, which was not spicy, and it was caused by tomatoes. Tofu is tender, mutton is fragrant, and noodle gluten is excellent. The ingredients are fried first and then cooked, and the umami flavor has been melted into the soup. Who said that "the north eats noodles and the south eats toppings"? Ningxia noodles have done both.
At first glance, the pasta in Ningxia inherits the northwest style. For example, minced meat noodles are easily reminiscent of Qishan minced meat noodles in Shaanxi next door, and Lamian Noodles's noodles are very similar to the common "noodle soup" in northwest China. It was not until the boss casually asked, that the other side of "plugging in Jiangnan" was refined.
"Would you like some side dishes?"
Cold mixed noodles are a common way to eat, but the fineness of the side dishes in Yinchuan noodle restaurant completely subverts my stereotype of "more noodles and less vegetables" in northwest pasta.
Side dishes are generally only two yuan, and the places you order are all lined up: crispy shredded radish, shredded potato, pickled lotus, bean sprouts mixed with shredded tofu, and various small pickles. At most, you can spell three or four kinds. Eating with noodles is really delicious. Although the food is not big, the boss will pile it up for you, which is more than enough with a bowl of noodles. It's really worrying whether the noodle restaurant will lose money.
To some extent, the level of side dishes and noodles is directly linked. The side dishes are delicious, and the noodles can't be worse. Those seemingly tasteless side dishes make people sweat for the noodles that are about to be served.
In 1950s and 1960s, young people from Beijing, Shanghai and Shaanxi responded to the national call and came to Ningxia to support the construction, which also brought their eating habits. Ningxia noodles have the style of "paying equal attention to noodles and dishes", which has both the style of northwest pasta and the delicacy of southern food.
After I left Yinchuan, I went to Henan to eat mutton and Huimian Noodles. The weight and price of cold dishes have a tendency to catch up with the above, so it is easy to waste if I eat it alone. I miss Yinchuan people's delicacy and compassion in eating more and more.
It's a pity that I didn't order side dishes when I ate "rubbing noodles" the day before. That restaurant is next to Yu Lian, and it is one of the few noodle restaurants in this city that still retains its old craftsmanship.
The thickness of the dough is equivalent to chopsticks, and the difference between manual and mechanical is difficult to distinguish with the naked eye, but you can feel the difference between cloud and mud at the entrance. Only by rubbing out the noodles one by one by hand can the teeth bounce, and every bite can make people praise "Emmm".
I tried to search among dozens of kinds of noodles I have eaten and found that rubbing noodles is so unique. If you can only choose one kind of noodles to represent Yinchuan, I think it should be rubbing noodles. It is smoother than Wenzhou handmade noodles, softer than Xinjiang drawstring, and stronger than ordinary handmade noodles.
The skill of this noodle restaurant is quite good, as good as that of Yu Lian. Soup head makes mutton soup delicious but not greasy. Noodles are good and soup is good. How beautiful it would be to eat with such a small cold dish!
Ningxia's "fusion" is not only reflected in noodles, but also in the mix and match of staple foods.
There is a kind of food called "instant-boiled mutton" in the noodle restaurant, which sounds quite puzzling. Because "harmony" means "halogen" in some areas in the north, which is equivalent to the toppings in the south. Is mutton mixed with mutton noodles in gravy?
"Harmony means putting rice and noodles in a bowl and pouring mutton on it. In the past, old people liked to eat like this. Now many young people don't know what it is, and there are not many shops that can be reconciled. " The boss said proudly.
It turns out that "harmony" is equivalent to "mixing". Sichuan's "Yuanyang buckwheat noodles" are mixed with sweet potato flour and buckwheat noodles, and Henan's Hu spicy soup is mixed with tofu brain, but it is the first time I have heard of rice and noodles. In fact, this practice is very similar to the "folding basket" for dealing with leftovers in daily life, but it also reflects the unique diet composition of "mixed rice and flour" in Ningxia.
Ningxia is located at the junction of Gansu, Shaanxi and Inner Mongolia. Different from the desolate impression given by the northwest, there are many inland rivers and lakes in the province, and the Yellow River and its tributaries have bred an oasis in Wuzhong and Yinchuan. People in Ningxia who live in the northwest enjoy the treatment of "land of fish and rice" in the south of the Yangtze River.
The "Haibao Park" in the city center is a good place to feed red-billed gulls, which is easy to remind people of Kunming Cuihu at this time.
The only place in the north to break the pattern of "south rice north" is in the northeast and Ningxia. Many people in Ningxia have the eating habit of "a bowl of rice at noon and a bowl of noodles at night".
This reminds me of a few days ago, in the Paomo restaurant, my rice partner ordered a bowl of "stew" (which can be understood as a big bowl of mutton soup with meat). The boss gave a piece of cake and asked, "Is it enough to eat? If it is not enough, I will give you another bowl of rice. "
It is difficult to describe the magical reality of being asked "Do you want rice" when drinking mutton soup in the northwest, so the dimensional wall of "mutton soup biscuits" was broken.
Ningxia's tolerance to the north and south has both historical factors and natural interests. This is probably the charm of Yinchuan, an "atypical" northwest city.
Yinchuan guide to eating noodles
1. Yu Lian noodle restaurant: mutton noodles with minced meat, mutton offal.
2. Ya Ya rubs noodles: Mutton rubs noodles (I like this restaurant very much, it is a small restaurant).
3. Long-term stewed chicken: Yinchuan people recognize the old name of eating noodles. Noodles and stewed chicken are operated separately, but the store name is the same.
4. Old neighbor wild mushroom noodles Muslim: mutton wild mushroom noodles (this family's noodles are mechanical, so you don't have to eat the head, just order ordinary scorpion noodles, which is not as delicious as Yu Lian and Yaya).
5. Handmade noodles of Shen Meiying's lamb chops: Handmade noodles of lamb chops, small Lamian Noodles, and wild mushroom noodles. This shop is known as the "God of Handmade Noodles" in Yinchuan, but I went there twice for nothing, feeling that the boss's business hours are more casual.
6. Fuyuan noodles: mutton noodles
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Wenxiaxia
Figure | Xixia & Network