Take the latter branch as an example. In many places, fruit farmers like to leave a short pile when draining the back branches. In this way, many dry piles or piles will be formed in the coming year. When thinning the back and the branches on the back, the incision is kept neat, which leads to many leafy branches growing on the incision of the back branches in the next year, but the branches on the back can not grow, making the back more leafy and strips constantly emerge.
How to leave a hole? There is a formula: "supernatant on the back, ear on the back, leaf buds on the back." This means that when thinning the back branches, the incision should be flat and hard, and no piles can be left; when thinning the back branches, the incision should be downward and outward inclined, like a horse's ear.
The advantage of this is that no branches will grow on the cutting mouth in the coming year, and the branches under the cutting mouth will not grow vigorously because they are close to the back: when thinning the branches on the back, you should leave a bud to promote them to grow new branches in the coming year, and at the same time, you should "promote the lower part and restrain the upper part" to prevent the back from falling off (because the back has advantages). In this way, the back, the back and the back are mutually restrained, and the growth of the whole branch will be in a balanced and stable state, which is also conducive to good flowers and excellent fruits.
Similarly, when you go to the big branches, you should pay attention to using the saw. You should "put the back of the saw next to the tree and leave a centimeter under it to make the kerf smooth and protect the wound". That is, when sawing, the saw should be sawed from top to bottom, the back of the saw should be close to the tree body, the saw blade should be slightly tilted outward, and the kerf should be horseshoe-shaped. The lower part of the kerf should be 1cm long from the trunk (so-called oblique saw to keep the pile), and the kerf should be flat. If it is rough, polish the edge surface with a knife and finally apply a healing agent to protect the wound. This will not weaken the growth of the hollow stem, but also help the wound to heal, and there will not be too many branches at the incision in the coming year.
Because the nutrients absorbed by the roots should be left a little when they are transported up to the incision, and the nutrients made by the leaves should be left a little when they are transported down to the incision, and the wound will heal quickly. However, if the kerf is attached to the tree, it will weaken the growth of the trunk, which is not conducive to the healing of the wound, because the upper and lower channels for transporting nutrients here are broken. However, if the kerf is too long, it will be beneficial to wound healing, but in the coming year, many branches will be distributed on the kerf, wasting nutrients.
So the method of cutting down trees seems simple, but if you don't master the essentials, the effect will be counterproductive.
Error correction of apple tree pruning in winter
With the coming of winter, the annual apple tree pruning in winter will begin again. However, some fruit farmers still have some wrong practices in apple tree pruning in winter, and even bring adverse consequences, so corresponding "error correction" measures should be taken.
1 Too many branches.
Some fruit farmers are influenced by the pruning method of "cutting lightly and releasing more" advocated in previous years, and think that the more branches left, the better. The remaining branches can not be controlled and reformed in time, and can be allowed to grow for a long time. The concrete manifestations are: the trees are messy, regardless of primary and secondary; The verticillate branches are severely stuck; The branches are heavily crossed and the back is bare. The consequences are: the tree body forms a laissez-faire tree, and the trunk is weak or seriously skewed.
Error correction measures: redefine the tree according to the planting density in winter, determine the main branches according to the tree requirements, adjust the angle and orientation of the main branches, and then deal with the branches other than the main branches. Select the necessary branches on the tree, and remove the flagella branches with less branches and fewer flower buds that extend uniaxially every year as soon as possible. Fruiting branches that do not affect the growth of main branches should be temporarily used for fruiting, and then gradually drained or shrunk into branches in stages and batches.
The tree is super tall.
The concrete manifestations are as follows: after thinning and shaping, the medium-density orchard failed to turn around in time, and the crown was out of control and super-high.
Consequence: After entering the full fruit stage, the intercropping between plants is closed, and there is less light in the inner chamber and lower layer, forming crown fruit. As a result of the periphery, it has become an "empty tree of joy" that is "full of trees and fruitless".
Error correction measures: In the new year, except for the main branch of 1-2, the big branches with serious shading on the upper part should also be removed, and other branches should only be shrunk and not cut: choose appropriate parts to be happy, and pay attention to cultivating compact fruiting branches; The problem of illumination in the inner cavity is solved by retracting and drying, so as to stabilize the fruiting part in the middle of the crown.
3. The configuration of branches is unreasonable.
The concrete manifestations are: uniaxial branches formed only by sustained and slow release, resulting in loose branches, poor ability to bear fruit continuously and weak trees. Consequence: the output is unstable, with large fluctuation range and obvious year.
Error correction measures: cultivate the fruiting branches in a planned way, and prune them not only to see the yield in the second year, but also to prepare for the yield in the second and third years. This problem can be well solved by winter pruning techniques such as assisting the regeneration of two or three shoots and reducing the number of fruiting branches from large to small year after year.
Why is the seed setting rate of Aidang pear low?
Reasons for low fruit setting rate of 1
1. 1 climatic factors The optimum temperature for Aidang pear to bloom is about 25℃. Abnormal high temperature will shorten the life and activity of pollen, and the stigma is easy to dry or even dry up. Low temperature is also easy to cause poor pollination.
1.2 lack of pollination tree preparation.
According to the survey, although Aidang pear is a variety with high seed setting rate of white flowers, its ability to resist risks is greatly reduced when it encounters disastrous weather. Even if the temperature is suitable, the pollination and fertilization time of pear trees is only three days. By arranging pollination trees, the pollination time can be appropriately extended and the harm caused by adverse weather can be reduced.
1.3 planting technology The high-density cultivation technology of Aidang pear is still immature, but many pear orchards are cultivated according to high density, but they still adopt the management mode of large crown and sparse planting, which is full of water and fertilizer. New shoots are cut short, forming a tree shape with strong top and weak bottom, with early crown and poor lighting conditions, which loses the significance of early high yield.
2 countermeasures
2. 1 scientific management
First, according to the management method of planned close planting, permanent rows, permanent plants, temporary rows and temporary plants are determined and managed separately. In the long run, the permanent trees should be gradually released and the crown should be cultivated. Temporary trees should consider the production life and take measures to make them bear fruit as soon as possible, and remove them when they affect the growth of permanent trees. Second, through strict crown control measures and meticulous management, control fertilizer, water, tree height and lateral branch diameter. Slow down more and cut less in summer, loosen the upper competitive branches, strengthen the flourishing branches, open the branch angles in time, slow down the growth of branches, promote their early fruiting, achieve the purpose of controlling the crown by fruit, and realize early high yield and long-term benefit.
2.2 Grafting pollination
Trees and pollinated trees are grafted on permanent rows and permanent trees. From the production practice, Hongxiangsu has consistent flowering period and high fruit setting rate, so it is a variety suitable for pollination of Aidang pear.
2.3 Flowering and spraying water
If the weather is dry or the temperature is too high during flowering, you can spray water 1-2 times in the afternoon to improve the environment and increase the fruit setting rate.
2.4 Auxiliary pollination
When the effect of replanting pollinated trees has not been achieved, auxiliary pollination measures should be actively taken, such as releasing bees during flowering, and the number of beehives placed in the orchard should be set at every 3000-7000 square meters, and the spacing between each box should not exceed 500 meters. You can also take measures such as hanging flower branches in the upper part of the crown and artificial pollination such as spraying to assist pollination.
Cut the grapes carefully in winter.
The main purpose of pruning grapes in winter is to ensure a certain number of buds, adjust growth and fruit, and ensure good new shoots every year, so as to achieve the goal of increasing production and high yield year after year.
1 Prune as soon as possible
Grapes should be pruned as soon as possible after defoliation, so as to be buried in the soil to prevent cold, and never pruned before germination in spring, so as to avoid the outflow of nutrient solution and lead to the decline of trees.
2 pruning method
2. 1 thinning In order to ensure that each main vine can be equipped with a group of fruiting branches at a certain distance, unnecessary or unusable branches should be completely cut off from the base.
2.2 nipple
When pruning in winter, it is customary to cut the mature 1 year new branches to the required length. Generally short pointed leaves 1-2 nodes; Leave 5-7 knots in the middle tip; Leave 8- 12 knots for the long tip. New shoots with good maturity and strong growth potential can be cut properly; The growth potential is weak, the maturity is poor, and the essence can be left short; Varieties with low bearing strength at the base of branches and vines should be trimmed with medium and long shoots; Where the branches and vines are sparse, you can stay for a long time in order to make full use of the space; Summer pruning can be shortened, and for new shoots that are not checked, it is necessary to leave them for a long time.
2.3 update pruning will shrink branches and vines that move up or forward too fast, and replace them with mature new branches at or near the base. Here is a brief introduction to the two-branch regeneration method: a fruiting branch group usually consists of a fruiting mother branch and a preparatory branch. Results The mother branch was kept long, the long and middle branches were pruned, and 2-3 buds were left in the lower branch, which was repeated every year. This method is reliable and suitable for varieties with weak branching ability.
3 Preventive measures
Grape vines have loose tissues, large pith, and easy loss of water and nutrients. When pruning the branches, it should be cut 3-5 cm above the buds or at the first section at the upper end of the buds. When pruning, cut off dead branches, pests and diseases, useless secondary branches and long branches. Long branches with long internodes and small buds are easy to cause serious blindness, so they should be thinned or shortened to keep fully mature new shoots with full and fat buds as far as possible. When thinning branches, the cutting mouth should be controlled at about 65438±0cm from the base, and do not cut near the base. When the residual pile is dry, cut it off from the base. The secondary buds of summer buds or winter buds, with a thickness of 0.8 cm, have good maturity, and can choose 2-3 nodes, and the ones with weak growth potential should be cut off.