Cultivation of kiwifruit:
1. Select suitable varieties: mainly Hongyang (red heart fruit), Heywot, Bruno, Qingcheng 1, Qinmei, Miliang 1, Chuanmi 2, Chuanmi 3 and Chuanmi 4.
Second, raise seedlings.
1, rootstock seedling
(1) Seed collection: fully mature fruits are harvested from early September to the first half of June. After ripening and softening, the fruits and seeds are squeezed out together, put into a gauze bag and kneaded to separate the seeds from the pulp, then washed repeatedly with clear water, and the washed seeds are spread indoors to dry in the shade.
(2) Sand storage treatment of seeds: soak the seeds in warm water at 40-50℃ for 2 hours, then soak them in cold water for one day and night, and then sand storage for 50-60 days to sow. Kiwifruit seeds are afraid of being dry and wet during sand storage, so they should be checked and turned frequently to prevent mildew.
(3) sowing?
Sowing time: generally, it is ideal to raise seedlings in areas above 800 altitude, and sow from mid-March to early April.
Sowing methods: First, the nursery is selected in a place with deep and fertile soil layer and good drainage and transportation conditions; The second is to prepare soil for the box, apply sufficient fertilizer and remove impurities. The width of the box is about 1 m, slightly press the seedbed, water it, and sow the seeds in the sand with sand. After sowing, sprinkle a layer of fine river sand with a thickness of about 2-3 mm, cover it with straw, spray water on the grass or build a plastic shed. Third, strengthen seedbed management to ensure that strong rootstock seedlings are cultivated.
2. Cultivation of grafted seedlings
(1) Grafting period: about 20 days before germination, that is, from mid-February to late March.
(2) Grafting method: Single-bud cutting and other methods are mainly adopted. Specifically, select a scion with full growth and small pith, and cut off a bud and a branch, which is 3-4 cm long. Choose a straight edge to cut off the cortex, the section length is 2-3 cm, and the depth is appropriate to expose the xylem or slightly expose the xylem. Cut the reverse side of the face with a short oblique plane of about 50 degrees. Cut the rootstock at a distance of 10- 15 cm from the ground, select the one with smooth surface and cut down. The length of the cuttings is slightly longer than that of the scion, and the depth is the same as that of the scion, and the rootstock is stripped by 2/3; Then insert the scion, and the scion is required to be basically the same size as the rootstock; Pay attention to the alignment of the cambium of the rootstock, and then wrap it with plastic grafting film to expose the eye of the scion bud.
(3) Management of grafted seedlings: First, grafted seedlings begin to sprout 3-4 weeks after grafting, and the binding film can be removed after new buds grow and basically age. Second, after the survival of abdominal seedlings in spring and autumn, the anvil should be cut immediately, and the incision is about 4 cm away from the interface. After budding in summer, you can fold the anvil first and then cut it. Third, it is the key to survival to erase the new buds on the rootstock in time. Fourth, the nursery should regularly cultivate soil and weed, and be careful not to touch the newly sprouted buds when weeding. Fifth, after the bud sprouts, a post should be erected next to the bud and the new bud should be tied to the post. Sixth, when the seedlings grow to 60 cm high, they should be picked properly. Seventh, combined with irrigation, human manure, pig manure and so on can be applied. , or add 1 {BF} urea to the water, and add appropriate amount of calcium superphosphate when fertilizing in July to promote the aging of seedling branches and full bud eyes. Eighth, in July and August, kiwifruit seedlings should take shading measures to avoid direct sunlight.
Third, garden construction.
1, garden selection
Kiwifruit root system is fleshy, especially fragile, afraid of waterlogging, high temperature, drought, new buds afraid of strong wind breaking, afraid of late spring cold or low temperature freezing injury. Suitable for planting in subalpine areas (800- 1400 meters above sea level). Choose a place with deep soil layer, fertile soil, loose texture, good drainage and convenient transportation to build the garden. For example, when planting kiwifruit in low mountains, hills or plains, proper irrigation and drainage facilities should be provided to ensure no waterlogging in rainy season and timely irrigation in dry season. It is best to build windbreaks around the park.
2. Planting period: The best planting period in southern producing areas is from defoliation of kiwifruit to completion of planting before germination of kiwifruit in early spring of the following year, that is, from early February to early February of 65438, the earlier the better.
3. Allocation of pollinated trees: Kiwi is a dioecious fruit tree, and the selection and allocation of pollinated male plants is one of the conditions to ensure normal fruit. The selection of male plants should pay attention to the same or slightly earlier flowering period as the main varieties, with large pollen quantity and long flowering period. The ratio of male to female plants is 6: 1 or 5: 1, which has high yield and good quality.
4. Planting density: The general planting density is closely related to the cultivation frame. Planting density away from home is 2m×4m, T-frame planting density is 3m×4m, about 56 plants are planted per mu, and flat-top planting density is 3m×5m.
5. Scaffolding: Generally, scaffolding will be erected in the winter of the year after planting, which is divided into columns (cement columns, wooden columns, stone columns, bamboo columns, accompanying trees, etc.). ), beam (cement column, wooden column, bamboo and metal, etc. ), as well as the wire on the shed surface. According to local conditions, wooden frame, steel frame, concrete frame and accompanying tree frame are selected, and Y-frame and T-frame are the main frames.
6. Planting frame: There are three kinds of frames commonly used in kiwifruit production, namely hedge frame, T-frame and flat top frame.
(1) Hedgehog: The length of the column is 2.6m, the thickness is 12cm, the buried depth is 80cm, and the clear height of the ground is1.8m. Four rust-proof iron wires are pulled from bottom to top, and the first iron wire is 60cm from the ground. A pillar is erected every 8 meters, and branches and vines are tied to the wire on the surface of the frame. This framework is widely used in production.
(2)T-frame: A horizontal beam is arranged at the top of the column to form a small T-frame. The total length of the column is 2.8m, and the total length of the beam is1.5m.. Three high-strength rust-proof iron wires are pulled on the beam. The depth of the column is 80 cm, and the clear height from the ground is 2 meters. Set a column every 6 meters.
(3) Flat-topped frame: the frame is 2m high, and a column is set every 6m. The columns in the whole garden can be arranged in a square. The total length of the column is 2.8 meters and the buried length is 80 cm. The pillars around the scaffold are connected with triangle iron or steel bars, and the grid is drawn between the pillars with thick and thin iron wires to form a flat shed.
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Four, cultivation management technology
1, planting technology
(1) Planting site preparation:? It is best to turn over the garden 60-80 cm last autumn, determine the plant spacing of 6×4 m or 4×4 m or 5×4 m, dig planting ditches or holes with a depth of 60-80 cm and a width of 80- 100 cm, and evenly mix and apply 50- 100 kg farm manure to each hole when backfilling topsoil.
(2) Variety configuration:? Generally, male and female plants in large orchards are matched according to the ratio of 10- 12: 1, while male plants in small orchards are required to be matched according to the ratio of 8: 1 or 6: 1. The specific planting method is: every three rows, every two female plants, plant a male plant.
Planting period and method:
Planting date: Kiwi, like other deciduous fruit trees, can be planted in autumn and early spring.
Planting method: If there are many plant stems buried in the planting hole, let them sink before planting. When planting, the seedlings should be placed in the center of the planting hole, and the roots should not be in direct contact with the fertilizer. Stretch the roots around by hand, cover the roots with fine soil, then cover them with soil, step on them steadily with your feet, and fill them with water. The planting depth should be even or slightly higher than the root neck and soil surface, and the joint should not be buried in the soil.
2. Management technology
(1) soil management? ：
Deep tillage and soil improvement: combined with basic fertilization, deep tillage and ditching should be carried out at the periphery of the root system every year or every other year, and the crown should be shallow. After pruning and garden cleaning, the soil outside the fertilization ditch should be deeply cultivated for 20-30 cm.
Intertillage and weeding: the suitable tillage depth is 10- 15cm, shallow tillage near the tree tray in spring, weeding and loosening the soil in June-August in summer, which makes the soil loose and breathable, and enhances the ability of moisture retention and drought resistance.
(2) Fertilization management: First, base fertilizer: after picking fruits in late June 65438-1late October165438+1late October, immediately dig an annular ditch with a depth of 35cm and a width of 30cm around the tree tray or furrow along the tree line, and apply decomposed organic fertilizer, oil cake and phosphate fertilizer. Apply residual fertilizer 1500-3000 kg, oil cake 150-200 kg and phosphate fertilizer 100- 150 kg per mu. 2. Topdressing before germination: from late February to early March, apply quick-acting fertilizer mainly nitrogen fertilizer, combined with irrigation, and apply urea 6- 10 kg per mu. 3. Fertilization during fruit expansion: One week after flowering (from late May to mid-June), apply compound fertilizer 100- 150g and human and animal manure 6- 10kg to each plant. 4. Fertilization in the later stage of fruit growth: from late July to early August, apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, control the amount of nitrogen fertilizer to prevent the branches from growing slightly, and apply 200-250g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to each plant. 5. Topdressing outside the root: topdressing outside the root with 0.3 {BF} potassium dihydrogen phosphate or 0.2 {BF} urea solution at full flowering stage and fruit setting stage.
(3) Water management: Kiwifruit root system is shallow, which is neither drought-tolerant nor waterlogging-tolerant; Growth requires high air humidity and sufficient soil moisture. First, before germination in spring, irrigate with fertilizer, 25-30 kg per plant, and irrigate 2-3 times depending on drought; Second, during the summer drought, depending on the drought, irrigate 2-3 times; Three, during the autumn rain, to timely ditch drainage in orchards or plants.
(4) plastic trimming:
Shaping: the trees are mainly hedges with horizontal shaping, and there are few free fan-shaped vines and T-shaped sheds. Light cutting and slow release, strengthening pruning in growth period, slowing down the trend and promoting flowering and fruiting.
Pruning in summer: 1. Except sprouting: that is, erasing the sprouting tillers on the rootstock and the long branches sprouting at the base of the trunk or main vine, and erasing all except the branches; The second stage is the fruit-setting stage, when the spring shoots are semi-lignified, the buds of the long branches are picked above the last fruit 10 leaves or 7-8 leaves; Picking at the15th leaf of the vegetative branch of the spring shoot, if the secondary bud germinates, 3-4 leaves can be left for coring; Third, thinning branches: that is, thinning out the weak branches in the summer shoots and two new shoots sprouting between the same leaf axils that are too dense and too long to affect the growth of fruits; Fourth, bending branches: that is, in March, in the young tree stage, the clustered new shoots are twisted and pulled to control the overgrowth, and the branches and vines are laid flat in early August to promote the differentiation of flower buds.
Pruning in winter: first, thinning branches, that is, mainly thinning excessive branches, dense branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, diseases and insect pests, weak and short-shortened branches, sprouting branches with no use value and fruiting branches without regeneration ability; As a result, the robust vegetative branches on the mother branch are good mother branches that will bear fruit in the next year. Depending on the growth situation and variety characteristics, the buds of 8- 12 should be cut short, the weak branches should be cut short, and the strong branches should be cut off after 15. The fruiting mother branch that has been fruiting for about 3 years can be shrunk to the place where there are strong branches and strong buds at the base of the fruiting mother branch for regeneration. The second is the treatment of fruiting branches: the long fruiting branches are cut short, with 3-4 buds in the fruiting part, and the medium-long fruiting branches can be cut short, with 2-3 buds in the fruiting part, and the short fruiting branches are generally not cut. 5-8 buds are left in the regenerated branches.
Five, pest control
1. The main pests and diseases are flower rot, anthracnose, stem blight, brown spot, fruit soft rot, Phytophthora, root rot, scarab, winged moth, bud maggot, fruit sucking moth, etc. Comprehensive control methods such as strengthening management, strengthening tree potential, strengthening soil disinfection and strengthening prevention are mainly adopted.
Second, fruit sunburn mainly strengthens tree potential management and reasonable pruning. Bagging can prevent sunburn during fruit growth and development (late August).