Sit down and hold the rim with the inside of your knees, and knitting will be easy to complete. People who knit all day put all the spokes on the wheel hub first, and then connect them to the wheel rim one by one. That method is more in line with the principle of industrialization, but people who occasionally weave circles have a great chance of making mistakes. Non-industrial weavers often install a set of spokes at a time. The traditional wheel has four sets of spokes: one half is connected to the right rim of the hub, and the other half is connected to the left rim; On each rim, there are half "trailing" spokes and half "leading" spokes. There is a definition at the back. In a word, tailing means that the wheel hub pulls the wheel rim forward, or tries to make the wheel rim pull the wheel hub from behind.
"Key" spoke (first spoke)
The first spoke to be installed is the main spoke.
This spoke must be in the right position, otherwise the nozzle hole will be in the wrong position, and even the hole on the rim will not match the angle of the spoke. The key spokes will be the trailing spokes on the flywheel side. It is easiest to drag spokes from the tail because they start from the inside of the hub edge. If you start with the front spokes, it will be a little troublesome to install the rear spokes, because the front spokes have already occupied the position.
The key spoke is the trailing spoke, which should be pulled on the inside of the rim. The spoke head is outside the rim. (See "Which side of the rim?" Part)
Traditionally, the rim is oriented so that its label is positive when read from the right side of the car. If there are labels on the bucket of the hub, the hub is positioned to read these labels only from the air nozzle hole. These things will have no effect on the performance of the wheel, but a good wheel knitter will pay attention to these things out of quality awareness and aesthetic requirements.
The rim will be punched in the "right hand direction" or "left hand direction". This refers to the positional relationship between the nozzle hole and the spoke hole. The spoke holes are not located in the center line of the rim, but staggered from side to side. The hole on the left is used for the spokes on the left edge of the hub. Some holes in front of the valve hole on the rim are to the left, while others are to the right (as shown in the schematic diagram). Which is the "right hand direction" and which is the "left hand direction"? I've never met anyone, even if I'm just guessing.
Key spokes are close to the air nozzle hole or separated by spoke holes.
As shown in the figure, the key spoke passes through the right side of the wheel hub (flywheel side), moves counterclockwise, and is connected to the first (as shown in the figure) or second spoke hole on the right side of the valve hole (depending on the punching method of the wheel rim). The purpose of this is to make two of the four spokes on both sides of the valve hole face away from the valve hole, which will enlarge the valve hole and facilitate the installation of the valve.
Turn the spoke nut twice to maintain its position. Then put the spokes on the hub from the second hole, so that there is an empty hole between the two spokes on the rim. This spoke is placed on the fourth hole of the key spoke, so there are three empty holes in the middle (excluding the air nozzle hole).
Continue along the wheel until all 9 spokes of the first group are in place. Carefully check their positions on the wheel hub and rim. There is an empty hole on the hub between them, and three empty holes are arranged on the rim according to a spoke (excluding the air nozzle hole). Make sure that all spokes pass through the holes on the same side of the rim. Then it looks like this:
Add a picture: this is what the first group looks like after editing.
The second set of spokes now turn the wheel over and observe the hub. The hole on the left wheel rim of the hub is not on the same axis as the hole on the right wheel rim, but between two holes on the right wheel rim. If you can't see it, you can use spokes to pass through the hole of the left rim parallel to the axle, and you can find that it finally hits between the two holes of the right rim. Turn the wheel so that the air nozzle hole is located at the top of the wheel. Because we look at the left now, the key spokes will be on the left side of the valve hole. If the key spoke is facing the valve hole, insert a spoke into the left wheel rim and make it just to the left of the position where the key spoke passes through the hub. Then it passes through the first hole on the left side of the key spoke on the rim. At this point, the rim looks like this from the right:
On the rim in the figure, the key spoke is close to the right side of the valve hole. Some rims are punched in the opposite "right-hand direction", so this may be different from your wheels. If there is an empty hole between the key spoke and the air nozzle hole, at this time, a spoke should be inserted into the left rim, just to the right of the position where the key spoke passes through the hub (the air nozzle hole is at the top when viewed from the left side of the wheel), and then inserted into the hole between the key spoke and the air nozzle hole. If you do it correctly, this spoke will not cross the key spoke. At this time, turn the wheel over and look from the right. If the tenth spoke (the first in the second group) is on the left side of the key spoke, it will also be on the left side of the key spoke at the rim position. Like the first set of spokes, it will be a trailing spoke, which is also connected from the inside of the rim, and the spoke head is on the outside of the rim. Install the remaining 8 spokes of the group in the same way. After completing this step, all 18 tail spokes of the wheel are installed. The spokes on the rim are arranged according to two spokes and two empty holes. Then it looks like this:
Pull the spokes forward and turn the wheel to the flywheel facing you. Put the spoke in any hole, but this time it will pass through the rim. Turn the hub clockwise as far as possible for easy installation. Because we are going to make a three-wheel cross this time, this spoke will intersect with three trailing spokes on the same side of the hub. Note: Two intersections intersect with two spokes, and so on. And the zero-crossing point do not intersect and become radial. At the first two intersections, this spoke passes through the outside of the trailing spoke, but the farthest intersection needs to be "woven" to make it pass through the inside of the last trailing spoke. You must bend this front resistance spoke to bypass the last rear resistance spoke. After the front drag spokes cross three times, there will be two holes on the rim that can be installed. Use the hole in the rim on the same side as the rim where the spokes are located. This hole will not be next to the spokes on the same side of the hub.
Install other 17 spokes in the same way. If some spokes cannot be connected to the spoke nuts, you can check whether the spoke nuts of other spokes are in their holes, and then you can do it. Carefully check the entire rim and make sure that any two adjacent spokes are connected to different rims of the hub.
Preliminary adjustment of spokes
Once the rim is completed, adjust all the spoke nuts so that they can be screwed into the spokes as much as possible. It can be done with a screwdriver (electric is better). A good starting point is to tighten them all, so that the threaded part of the spoke will disappear into the spoke nut. If the spokes are a little short, maybe you should leave a small part of the thread exposed. In this step, it is important to make all 36 spokes as uniform as possible, all spokes are only loose, that is, all spokes are just tight. If some spokes are too tight or too loose, they must be adjusted in the same way to provide a reference line for adjusting the circle. If you find that some spokes are much tighter than others, please carefully check the spoke weaving style. On some rims, the joint of the rim is thicker than other parts, so you may want to loosen the two spokes closest to the joint (usually opposite the air nozzle hole) for one or two turns.
At this step, the spokes will not be straightened, but will be obviously bent near the hub. In particular, the front trailing spokes will protrude outward, keeping them away from the hub, and then gradually bend back to the rim. Before you start to tighten these spokes, you should stick them neatly on one side of the hub edge by hand. This can be easily done by pressing each spoke with your thumb about an inch from the hub. If you don't do this, the spokes of the wheel will still bend slightly after completion. In the first few hundred miles of the road, these bends will gradually straighten and the wheels will loosen and deform.
Tighten plastic surgery. Now, you must put the wheel on the adjustment frame. If it is already quite good, then you are lucky, but if it is still far behind, you don't have to make a fuss. If the spokes are still loose, you can easily swing the rim back and forth. You should tighten each spoke once. Do it in one direction from the nozzle hole until it returns to the nozzle, so that it will not leak. Make sure you turn the spoke nut in the right direction. When you use a screwdriver, you can easily point out the tightening direction, that is, clockwise. When you start to use the spoke wrench, you will be a little confused because you are working on the back of the clock now. Continue tightening in this way for one week at a time until the wheels start to strengthen. Once the wheel starts to have a little tension, you should start to adjust its shape. You need to control four different elements to complete the adjustment. They are: end-face runout, circular runout, symmetry and tension. The original text is horizontal shaping, vertical shaping, dish-shaped and tension. I think my name is more in line with the custom of China industry. Throughout the process, constantly check all four elements and adjust the worst one.