Bonsai plants, like trees, grow gradually from seeds. However, bonsai plants are usually planted in small containers and are constantly pruned to keep them small and delicate. So what are the methods for growing bonsai? Here are the methods for growing bonsai that I have compiled for you. I hope it will be useful to you. Methods of planting bonsai

1. The relationship between potted flowers and the environment

The living environment of plants is soil, water, light and temperature. Potted flowers are no exception.

(1) Soil: Soil is the indispensable basis for the survival of every plant, especially most potted flowers, which require soil rich in various minerals.

Generally speaking, there are three major types of soil: acidic soil (PH value less than 7), neutral soil (PH value equal to 7), and alkaline soil (PH value greater than 7). Flowers in the south are mostly flowers that like acidic soil and neutral flowers, and there are fewer flowers that like alkaline soil. The soil pH value for potted flowers in the South is generally between 5.5 and 6.5

which is more suitable and the flowers will grow well.

The following is an introduction to the cultivation soil for several types of potted flowers.

The cultivation soil for potted flowers must be loose, breathable, water-retaining, fertilizer-retaining, and free of water accumulation. Natural potting soils include: sandy red soil developed from sandstone, pond mud humus soil, peat soil (i.e. grassy coal soil), etc. The other two need to be artificially synthesized from the ground (that is, mixed in proportion), such as: humus soil and sandy red soil are evenly mixed in a ratio of 2:1 for cultivation of spring taro, monstera, pothos, green giant, and goose. Palm wood, colorful red banana, taro (red, emerald), etc. are called bisexual soil. Another example: artificial bacteria waste (must be crushed corn stalks or rice bran, soybean bran material) pond mud or mountain red sand, river sand or perlite, mixed evenly in a ratio of 3:2:1

The cultivation soil is used to cultivate Brazilian iron (dracaena), various orchids, velvet, arrowroot, etc. Contains nitrogen (N) phosphorus (P) potassium (K) sodium (Na) calcium (Ca) and other inorganic salts, fungicides, plant fibers and other nutrients needed by flowers. One-time cultivation can be done for a long time without the need for fertilization. Top dressing and soil replacement make it an ideal indoor flower cultivation soil.

(2) Temperature and light: The distribution of various plants is also different due to different altitudes, forming a suitable growing area (community environment) for each plant. Different community environments require different conditions for flowers. Temperature, humidity, and light hours also vary. The false betel nut, zebra, manlu velvet, money tree, etc. introduced from the tropics to the subtropics are suitable for indoor and outdoor cultivation in tropical areas. However, when moved to the subtropics, due to the strong ultraviolet radiation, they are prone to burns in summer and frost in winter. If it is damaged, it cannot survive the winter in the wild and must be moved into a greenhouse or indoors.

(3) Water: Water is the lifeblood of plants, and each plant has different water needs. For example: Orchidaceae, Tea family, and Gramineae are three major families of plants. Certain plants in each family have similar water requirements, but they are different in terms of major families. Orchids are negative flowers, while tea plants are semi-negative. The flowers of these two families require less water than the grasses. Most of the grass flower plants are positive flowers. Different varieties of flower plants within the family Moisture requirements are also different.

In central Yunnan, the water supply to flowers varies with the seasons: from late spring and early summer to late autumn and early winter, temperatures are higher, rainfall is abundant, plants grow vigorously, and water requirements are high. For large growth, watering should be done in the morning and evening to avoid burns. Indoor flowers need to be watered only once every 10 days due to the high air humidity during this period and the small amount of transpiration from the indoor leaves. During the period from the arrival of the first frost to the coming of the following spring (i.e. late spring cold), the air is dry, the temperature is low, and the water temperature is relatively low. Watering should be done on sunny afternoons. Be especially careful when watering indoor foliage plants. The water temperature for watering indoor flowers must be between 25°C and 38°C before they can be used.

2. Reproduction of flowers

It is divided into two types: sexual reproduction and asexual reproduction.

(1) Sexual reproduction; seeds are obtained through the sexual (fertilization) process and are used to reproduce new individuals. To obtain excellent seeds, you must have excellent parent plants and properly store the seeds collected from the excellent plants. Some must be picked and broadcast as needed. Such as: star anise, yellow orchid, tree fern, cedar, ailanthus, etc. Stored seeds must be placed in a cool, ventilated and dry room. The storage limit for seeds of pine, fir, cypress, and grass plants is one year. The bulbs of flower bulbs can only be planted for half a year, such as alyssum, white lily, tuberose (herb), Tang Changpu, etc.

(2) Asexual propagation: Use the vegetative organs of the plant to reproduce. Methods include: cutting, root dividing, layering, grafting, tissue culture, etc., to make it a new plant. Bougainvillea (bougainvillea), many kinds of papaya and crabapple, cherry, five-color plum (3 kinds), oleander, rose, rose, juniper, boxwood, rose, gardenia, bamboo, crape myrtle, etc. Asexually propagated flower varieties will affect the survival rate due to seasonal changes. Bamboos, special correspondent of this newspaper, bougainvillea, oleander, winter jasmine, purple asparagus, crape myrtle, etc. have higher survival rates in spring. From autumn to before erecting, the survival rates of Rosaceae and Salicaceae are higher. The survival rate of breeding after autumn is very low. In order to improve the survival rate, the following hormones can be used, namely: anthocyanins, gibberellins, cytokinins, abscisic acid, ?-naphthylacetic acid, indolebutyric acid, ethylene and growth retardants.

3. Classification of potted flowers

At this stage, potted flowers in Yiliang can be roughly divided into three types according to their biological characteristics and commercial production requirements: positive flowers and negative flowers. and neutral florals.

(1) Positive flowers: Generally, they can grow vigorously under strong light, such as: bougainvillea (i.e. bougainvillea) 10

More than one species, white orchid (Burmese osmanthus), Osmanthus (3 species), lotus (2 species), crab orchid, cactus (3 species), prickly pear, Milan, banana smile, Araucaria, boxwood (4 species), rose (more than 10 species), rose (4 species) , five-needle pine, dragon cypress, autumn chrysanthemum (105 species), aster (2 species), cherry blossom (3 species), winter cherry blossom (Little Yangchun), knotweed, tiger-thorn plum, gulixiang, magnolia (3 species ) German orchid (2 species), nandina, jasmine, poinsettia, cypress, cypress (6 species), gardenia (2 species), geranium (5 species), cinnamony, petanthera, Chinese dianthus , carnation (7 types), bamboo (5 types), cosmos, rudbeckia, marigold (3 types), calendula, canna, dianthus (5 colors) golden grass, hibiscus (3 types) , alyssum, wood sorrel (2 species), alyssum, woody baby's breath, yucca, mountain magnolia, damula, loquat, rose (5 species), red magnolia, plum, tangerine, grape Cypress, red coral, crabapple, peach, Jiujunliang, hypericum, pomegranate (5) species, etc.

(2) Negative flowers: Generally, they can grow and develop normally under low light conditions with a shade degree of more than 50%, such as: spring taro, monstera, false betel nut (only in Yiliang), Xianglong Blood tree (only in Yiliang), taro (red, emerald), pothos, green velvet, mountain dragon, lucky bamboo, watercress green, Strelitzia reginae, cyclamen (various), saxifrage, hanging Bamboo plum, primula, cineraria, horse chestnut (Yiliang only), money tree, palm bamboo (3 species), Schefflera, Belgian azalea, calla lily, ferns (various), begonia, dry high autumn , Camellia, Begonia, Echinacea (Needle Sunflower), Palmetto, Alocasia, etc.

(3) Neutral flowers have little to do with light intensity, such as: sasanqua (2 species), June snow, show ball, winter coral, violet, azalea (except Belgian azalea), Neutral flowers between masculine flowers and feminine flowers, such as iron tree (5 species), daffodils, asparagus, wheatgrass, butterfly vine, ivy (3 species), podocarpus, etc., are relatively speaking, and are not It has nothing to do with light.

IV. Shaping of potted flowers

Potted flowers are divided into herbaceous and woody. Herbaceous flowers can often be reshaped by topping and pruning 2-3 times. Woody flowers require multiple toppings. Plastic surgery can be completed through eight steps: picking leaves, picking flowers, picking fruits, peeling buds, peeling buds, binding and shaping. Bonsai woody flowers include flower bonsai, fruit bonsai, landscape bonsai, rock bonsai, pile bonsai, etc. Among them, flower and fruit bonsai does not take a long time and can usually be completed in one to three years. Landscape, rock and pile bonsai require more than three years to mature, and some require decades to complete the entire modeling process.

5. Cultivation and management of potted flowers

Potted flowers are divided into four types: open field flowers, greenhouse flowers, promotion and inhibition cultivation, and soilless cultivation. The first two are generally used. .

(1) Open field flower cultivation and management: including soil preparation, propagation, thinning, transplanting, irrigation, fertilization, cultivating and weeding, pruning, cold protection and overwintering, and crop rotation.

Annual flowers: mostly tropical flowers or herbaceous flowers. Tropical flowers are not very cold-tolerant and will die when exposed to frost. Biennial flowers are more cold-resistant than annual flowers and are best sown in spring. First and second-year flowers degenerate quickly. In order to prevent structural and biological mixing of varieties, cover them with pine needles or disinfectant grass after sowing, and water them in a timely manner. Transplant the seedlings when they reach 10cm, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and timely remove the hearts, leaves, flowers, and shape them.

Perennial flowers penetrate deeply into the soil, grow vigorously, have strong adaptability, and have strong ability to withstand adverse natural environments. Once planted, it can bear fruit for many years. During the seedling stage, it prefers humus-rich and loose soil, and after the second year, it prefers acidic soil. During the seedling stage, pay attention to water, fertilizer, cultivating, weeding and other maintenance measures. One year after planting, the plant will grow vigorously and have many and large flowers. It is best to apply top dressing when the new buds come out in spring. Apply top dressing once before and after flowering. In autumn, you can apply decomposed manure or compost around the plant.

Bulb flowers are mostly cultivated on the ground, and it is required to choose a well-ventilated and well-drained plot for planting. The planting depth varies depending on the soil quality, planting purpose and type. The planting depth is generally 3 times higher than the seed bulb.

Most aquatic flowers are propagated by divisions, and most of them are not cold-tolerant. They should be planted in divisions in early summer. The method is similar to that of perennial flowers.

(2) Cultivation and management of greenhouse flowers; repotting and mid-term management of greenhouse flowers are similar to those of ground-planted flowers, as is fertilization. The watering of greenhouse flowers is inconsistent with the outside environment in the greenhouse. Therefore, the frequency, time and amount of watering must be determined scientifically. Generally, it is watered every 3-4 days in spring and summer, and once every 1-2 days in autumn and winter. Just water it thoroughly every time.

(3) Promote and inhibit cultivation: This method can accelerate and delay the flowering period, ensuring balanced production of flowers in the four seasons and supply of flowers during festivals.

(4) Soilless cultivation: including hydroponics, substrate cultivation, and other soilless cultivation methods.

(5) Fertilization of flowers: Flowers absorb a large amount of nutrients from the cultivation soil to meet their own needs. The main ones are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), carbon (C), hydrogen (H), oxygen (O), magnesium (Mg), sulfur (S), iron (Fe), copper ( Cu), boron (B), manganese (Mn), chromium (Cl), etc. Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen (C, H, O) constitute the main elements of flowers, accounting for more than 90% of the dry matter weight. They can be extracted from the air and obtained from soil. The content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (N, P, K) in the soil is far from meeting the needs of flowers and trees, so it must be supplemented by frequent fertilization; in the south, there is a lot of rain, and calcium and magnesium (Ca, Mg) are easily lost, so appropriate Add supplements. Fertilizer should be applied at the right time, in the right amount, sparingly and frequently. Orchid plants generally do not require fertilization.

The amount of fertilizer for potted flowers placed indoors (two tanks in the dog head pot in central Yunnan) is 10-30 grains of compound fertilizer per pot each time. When fertilizing, chemical fertilizers should not be placed at the base of the roots to avoid burning. The roots are not conducive to absorption. Fertilizer should be applied on the edge of the pot and try not to dissolve in water. Fertilizer should be applied to avoid spreading on the leaves and burning the leaves. Apply 1-2 times a month in spring and summer, apply once a month or not in autumn and winter. Due to the large outdoor temperature difference, sufficient heat in spring and summer, and sufficient water supply, flowers in the open field grow vigorously and lose fertility and minerals due to rain leaching, so they must be constantly supplemented with fertilizers and minerals. Generally, fertilize once a week in spring and summer. Depending on the specifications of the pot and the size of the plant, 10 grains of compound fertilizer should be applied each time for pots over seven inches. For potted flowers over four feet, the amount of fertilizer per pot can be increased to 10-20 grains; The amount of fertilizer for potted flowers of the following specifications should be appropriately reduced to 4-5 grains per pot. How to make bonsai

　(1) Operating skills

In the process of making stump bonsai including cultivating, various techniques are often used interchangeably, such as splitting, chiseling, carving, engraving, etc. Tearing, grinding, touching, etching, dyeing, burning, etc. The tools and methods used in each craft are different.

① Split: Use a sharp tool to chop the tree trunk and other parts that need to be processed, or split the trunk in half to cause damage. This is a processing method for shaping old dead tree stumps, but it will It leaves traces of ceremonial axes and stereotyped facial injuries.

② Chisel: Use carpentry steel to chisel the trunk and branches to the appropriate depth (width, length) and changes in undulations and concavities. Improper handling and artificial scratches are obvious.

③Carving: Use a carving instrument to carve out the wood to make the unsatisfactory parts more natural and reasonable.

④Carving: The contents of carving and carving are similar, and the techniques are different. The carving instrument is used to carve carefully to further shape the tree branches, which is in line with the natural French style and has the meaning of ancient withering. It is especially beneficial to carve the skin around the wound evenly. heal.

⑤Tear: Tear off the bark or xylem fibers of the shaped part with a vise to make the branches vigorous and natural.

⑥Grinding: Use manual or mechanical means to polish the artificial heat of the processed surface to make the damaged surface naturally smooth and natural-looking.

⑦Bump: Bump the epidermis with a blunt instrument such as a hammer to cause physical stimulation to cause damage. Later, after the wound is healed, "tree knots" will be formed, making the trunk simple and unique.

⑧Erosion: Use acid and other chemical treatments to process the carved xylem to achieve natural aging of the processed surface (to prevent contamination of the bark and dripping into the soil).

⑨ Dyeing: Paint the exposed branches with pigments, sulfur, etc. (remove the bark to expose the xylem) to make it simple and natural,

It looks like a branch that has been dry for many years. , white branches, and the texture of the newly peeled xylem is obviously different.

⑩ Burning: Use an electric soldering iron to burn the xylem (carved parts), causing changes in shades of color, and imitating the ancient appearance caused by lightning strikes and fires, making the natural appearance of the carving more clumsy (carving) Although the surface is processed naturally, the color is consistent and becomes more natural after burning).

To make a good bonsai, the important factors are the materials, knowledge and understanding of the materials, and the techniques for handling the materials. The creation of bonsai is the whole process of thinking and doing. Thinking is conceiving, doing is making. It is a process of implementing techniques. Using technical means to achieve the form and charm envisioned by the concept completes the creative process.

The unfinished ideas come first, the ideas come before the work, and the ideas are further refined during production. The following focuses on the modeling process from a technical perspective.

(2) Material selection

The different growth years and different growth environments of various trees will form their own appearance characteristics and inherent style and interest.

Generally speaking, it is very difficult to choose the material of medium-sized tree stumps, because unlike small and miniature bonsais, they have great plasticity and can be modified at will; unlike old (large) bonsais , only take the old, big, ancient and pale materials for their shape and meaning, and only need partial transformation. Medium-sized tree stumps are in between the two. They are less beautiful than old (larger) tree stumps and more difficult to shape than small tree stumps, especially in the difficulty of shaping the main trunk.

There are two situations in material selection. First, the producer first has a basic idea, then looks for materials, and calmly selects from many materials. Those who feel that they meet the conditions of the design can be selected. This method is called selecting materials according to the topic, that is, targeted selection.

The second situation is to analyze what kind of shape is suitable based on the materials you have at hand, or find the ideal materials accidentally, and apply the accumulated experience to apply the technique according to the materials. This is improvisation.

Generally, the requirements for materials for making solitary bonsai are relatively high. Because the solitary ornamental tree exists independently in the pot without any foil or cover, the aesthetic effect will be affected if you are not careful. Comprehensive ornamental bonsai is organized into a landscape by a variety of factors, which constitute an integral part of the entire picture. Various materials can learn from each other's strengths and complement each other's strengths and cover up deficiencies.

Therefore, when selecting materials for solitary bonsai, the stump must be carefully examined from roots, trunks, branches, leaves, etc. The roots should not only be tall and winding, but also vigorous and powerful, with the artistic conception of being rooted in the earth and unshakable. The trunk, the upper and lower thickness should be measured with a knife. It is both thick and ancient, including the wrinkles of the trunk's epithelial layer, the gnarled oldness, and even the decay and exposure of the xylem, which are the marks of time; it is also necessary to consider whether it can be bent, which is The key to making bonsai. Sometimes the main trunk is not easy to bend and the planting angle can be changed. The arrangement, quantity, mutual relationship, length, thickness, and contrast of side branches must also be considered overall. The skeleton that makes up a tree stump is the trunk and side branches, while the flesh and blood body often relies on the combination and changes of twigs and leaves. In addition, the original height of the material and the height obtained after shaping, that is, the final height after the trunk is bent or pruned during the technical processing, whether the ratio of these two heights is harmonious with the space in the pot, whether the growth of the material is vigorous, and whether the fibrous roots The growth conditions are all factors in material selection.

It is best to use materials that have been potted for medium-sized bonsai. There is an adaptation process after the shaping operation. If it is a wild or ground-grown bonsai, it lacks the transitional stage of potting. After shaping and potting, the damage will be greater. It is more difficult to adapt to than potted plants, which affects growth and survival. Some medium-sized tree stumps still look old, but their actual growth potential is declining. Once the shape is pruned and transplanted, it is difficult to recover and become stagnant and sluggish. This is a shortcoming of the material. Pay attention to it when selecting materials. .

Multiple trees should be used for landscape layout. In addition to considering the above conditions, we should also pay attention to the reasonable coordination and contrast between each other. The more trees there are, the more complicated the contrast will be, and we must choose carefully to ensure that the guests and hosts are harmonious. The space should coordinate with the theme. Don’t simply think that more trees can make up for each other’s shortcomings, while ignoring the various organic connections between them. Materials can also be divided into front and back. When making, you cannot insist that the original sunny side be the front. You should find its best angle, including a comprehensive inspection of roots, trunks, branches, and tops, and determine the new shape based on the up and down, front and back relationships of the future form. The shape of the viewing surface.

By the way, do not take back the materials for production after rain or when there is water accumulation. On the one hand, the root soil is wet and muddy, making it inconvenient to loosen the soil for planting; on the other hand, the leaves are wet and stick to your hands, making it difficult to operate. The leaves and needles are easy to break, especially the stems and branches containing too much water, which are more likely to break during shaping. The root soil must be dry during production. You can water less or stop watering beforehand to ensure smooth production.

(3) Thinning

This is the first step to clear the obstacles for modeling. Although the rough and wild appearance of the material was already in mind when selecting the materials, and the preliminary framework of the new form was considered, because useless and obstructive branches would interfere with observation and thinking, and hinder the modeling, in order to sort out the outline, it was necessary to understand the material. Carry out moderate thinning to facilitate the next step.

Be sure to think carefully when you start, where is the front, what is the angle, the shape of the main trunk, whether it is to use the trend or completely transform it, the length of the branches, the angle of expansion, where to keep, where to cut, etc. Although it is not the final decision, it still needs to be sorted out.

Thinning itself is an artistic treatment technique, which lays a solid foundation for future modeling and removes obstacles that bind wires. It is different from general tree pruning, which only considers simple gardening techniques such as ventilation, light transmission, and basic balance. When thinning and pruning, the attached old leaves, yellow leaves, diseased and dead branches, and stiff and weak branches should be removed as appropriate. Some dead and dead branches can be retained to balance the picture and enhance the ancient and wild appearance.

Thinning must be done with caution. It is better to be less than too much, to be long rather than short. Cut less and leave more. This leaves room for carelessness during conception and production. Further processing can be done after the shape is finalized. Set the shape, otherwise the action will be irreversible.

(4) Modeling

After carefully observing and studying the materials, I have the creative intention and desire, and I feel confident to express this intention and desire in a vivid form. This The performance process is called production.

Making bonsai is like playing chess. Don’t care about the gains and losses of one piece to affect the overall situation. The same is true for bonsai. Don’t pity the removal of one branch or leaf to affect the entire shape, and don’t care about the overall situation. prune.

① The reference of modeling to nature: Making bonsai is not simply a technical process, but more importantly, the expression of artistic conception. We must place our affection on nature, and the quality of the imagined shape must be realized by our hands.

The beauty of a pot of works lies first in the beauty of the shape. The beauty of the shape is the absorption and summary of the various peculiarities of trees in nature.

For large trees and ancient trees growing in the wild, the lower branches are flat or drooping, the middle branches are flat or slightly upward, and the upper branches are upturned. The overall crown forms a triangular relationship with a large bottom and a small top. The reason why the branches form this regular relationship is for the leaves. Spread wider and get more light. In this way, the lower branches will inevitably stretch out to compete for sunlight and gradually droop due to the influence of gravity. The upper branches are in the range that receives the most light, growing upward without obstruction or obstruction. The middle branches Between the two, different branches are formed. Furthermore, when trees grow to a certain height, their tops resist the elements and the branches become curved. This is commonly known as a tree attracting the wind. A tall tree is swayed and rubbed by the wind. The branches are often exposed to physical stimulation and become short and curved. From a biological point of view, the branches are Short, good physical properties, not easy to break. These have become the basis for reference in tree stump modeling. Of course, artistic pruning in future maintenance will also be required to further improve the shape and meet aesthetic requirements.

②Root protection: Regardless of potted plants or ground planting, pay attention to check the condition of the root surface after collecting materials. If it is not exposed, you can gently remove the surface soil and observe whether there is any usable area for viewing. Combined with The condition of the trunk determines the main surface of the shape. Do not bury the ornamental parts of the roots or deviate from the direction of the main surface.