Cherry pruning is divided into summer pruning, autumn pruning and winter pruning, with summer pruning and winter pruning as the main ones.
(1) summer pruning
The purpose of summer pruning is to improve the lighting conditions, reduce the ineffective growth of new shoots, and make the trees grow early, blossom early and bear fruit early. The main pruning methods are: sprouting, twisting branches, thinning branches, taking branches, coring, ultra-short shearing and so on.
Bud removal and bud wiping: In the leaf cluster stage, all the competitive buds of the main branches, lateral branches, trunk and strong branches and extended branches near the big incision are wiped off. Cut off double buds, leaving single buds, dry branches, branches of diseases and insect pests, and waste buds, so as to reduce long fruit branches that have not set fruit. The sprout of rootstock should be cut off as soon as possible. By removing sprouting and smearing buds, useless new shoots can be reduced, nutrition can be concentrated, and the remaining branches can be fully developed, and flower buds and leaf buds are full. Sprouting can improve the light condition of the crown, greatly reduce the workload of pruning in summer and the damage caused by pruning branches in summer.
Twisted branches: Twisted branches mainly refer to the long branches in the parts where there are few branches or the main side branches are easy to get sunburned. When the new shoots are semi-lignified, cut off the competing branches near the main branches and the extended branches of the side branches, and cut off the vigorous long branches and upright branches that have room for side branches or large and medium-sized fruiting branches.
Thinning: Branches whose main lateral branches and fruiting branches are too dense can be thinned from the base. The thinning amount should be controlled at 1/3 of the number of new shoots in the thinning position, and it is not advisable to thinning too many branches at one time.
Branching: It is mainly to change the growth direction of 60 cm long lateral branches with the characteristics of vain growth at high temperature.
Core-picking: Core-picking can easily lead to too many secondary branches and closed crown. At present, except for young tree pruning, it is necessary to remove the core from the extension branches of the main branches, and summer pruning generally does not advocate removing the core from the new shoots.
Ultra-short cutting: before June, long branches with space on the main side of the trunk can leave 1~2 knots at the base for ultra-short cutting, which can cultivate small and medium-sized fruiting branches.
(2) Pruning in winter
Winter pruning refers to pruning after the trees enter the winter dormancy period. The main methods are: short cutting, slow release, retraction, refinement and so on.
Thinning: Thinning branches from the base is called thinning, also called pruning. Thinning branches can improve the ventilation condition of the crown, reduce the branch density in the crown, make the storage nutrition in the tree relatively concentrated, and promote the growth of new shoots; Pruning will inhibit the upper part of the wound and promote the lower part of the wound. Removing useless twigs, pests, overgrown, overlapping and shady branches can promote the growth of the remaining branches.
Internal contraction: refers to the short cutting of perennial branches, also known as reduction. Retraction can supplement nutrients and water to the remaining branches, promote the growth of the lower branches, and is conducive to the rejuvenation of trees. Its function is to improve the light conditions in the crown, reduce the fruiting position, change the extension direction and angle of the extension branches, control the crown and prolong the fruiting period.
Shortcut: Cutting off part of annual branches is called a shortcut. There must be leaf buds when the short branches are cut. The function of short cutting is to reduce the number of leaf buds and flower buds on short cutting branches, strengthen the growth ability of new shoots of short cutting branches, reduce the branch position and enhance the branch ability. Light and short cutting: cutting off less than 65,438+0/5 of the total length of annual branches. The new shoots germinated in the second year are weak, but there are many new shoots, which are mostly used to cultivate medium, short and bouquetlike fruit branches. Or increase the number of fruiting branches and control the growth of new shoots after lightly cutting strong fruiting branches. Medium and short cutting: cut off 1/2 of the total length of annual branches, and all the buds under the cutting mouth are full. The new shoots germinated in the second year have strong growth potential, and a large number of robust new shoots are extracted, which are mostly used to prune the extension branches of the main side branches. Heavy and short cutting: 2/3~3/4 of the total length of annual branches is cut off, and the plumpness of buds under the cutting mouth is poor, but the pruning amount is large, so the new shoots sprouting in the next year have strong growth potential, but the number of new shoots is small, which is mostly used to control the pruning of strong branches. Extremely heavy and short cut: more than 5/6 of the total length of annual branches is cut off, and the branches sprouting in the second year are weak. This cutting method is mostly used to cultivate fruit branches with developing branches and overgrown fruit branches.
Long release: annual branches are not cut and allowed to grow naturally. Too long fruiting branches or long fruiting branches with excessive growth potential will weaken the apical dominance and promote the formation of short and medium fruiting branches. Long-term planting can keep the most buds on branches and slow down the growth of new shoots in the next year.
(3) Pruning in autumn
Autumn pruning is a necessary supplement to summer pruning and winter pruning. Because the growth is basically in a semi-stop state after entering autumn, the tree body is not sensitive to pruning. Cutting off the light green tips of branches in those years can save nutrition and promote the development and enrichment of branches themselves, flower buds and leaf buds. Too dense branches with shading on the periphery should be properly dismantled, and the long branches should be retracted 1/3, so as to open the light path and promote the development and enrichment of the inner branches. Protective agents should be used to promote the healing of large incisions.
As the saying goes, cherries are delicious but difficult to grow. In order to create good growth conditions for cherry trees and make them bear beautiful fruits every year, pruning, as an essential technology for scientific management of cherries and increasing production and efficiency, plays an increasingly critical role. Under normal circumstances, small cherry trees should be trimmed into vase-shaped (spindle-shaped) to promote the circulation of light and air and make the air fully distributed around the branches. After entering the young adult period, the dead branches and infected parts should be cleaned up in time every year to ensure the health and strength of the tree. When pruning, we should also distinguish the specific situations to avoid copying mechanically. The main points should be paid attention to: 1. Pruning methods should be determined according to variety characteristics, tree age, tree potential, planting density, cultivation methods and cultivation level. In addition, we should pay attention to the reaction after pruning, and adjust in time when problems are found. Second, when thinning branches, it should not be too much at a time. If thinning must be done, it should be done step by step in different years, and timely and appropriate amounts should be mastered to prevent rushing. When thinning large branches, the wound should be smooth without branches, and the wound should be inclined or downward. It is forbidden to cut into "scar" wounds, and apply wound protection agent after disinfection. Third, the twisting tip should be carried out in the semi-lignified part of the new tip. In addition, the twist tip should be operated by hand and cannot be replaced by pliers. Washing and cutting branches and leaves with dirty and blunt pruning shears will make them infected with diseases. Make sure your scissors are sharp, so that you won't damage the branches when pruning. Disinfect the pruning shears carefully before pruning your tree every time. Fourth, some varieties, such as Jixin and Short Purple, will weaken the number and growth of developing branches and even form small old trees, so we should pay special attention to them.