First, planting

It is best to plant in spring in the north and autumn in the south. Ground planting should be selected with good drainage and strong water retention performance. Sandy loam rich in humus. Pot culture is made of humus soil, sandy soil and manure with 65,438+0/3 each, or mixed culture soil with 4 humus soil, 5 peat soil and 65,438+0 coarse sand. The pH value is 5-6.5. The planting place should be where there is no water and no sun exposure. Potted camellias should be placed in a ventilated and light-transmitting place in winter and in a shade shed or other cool places in summer. Camellia should avoid moving its position randomly, otherwise it will be bad for its growth.

Second, the soil

Camellia is suitable to grow on neutral or slightly acidic mountain red (yellow) soil with high humus content, loose ventilation and good drainage and PH value between 5.5 and 6.5. Camellia is not suitable for planting in alkaline soil, cohesive soil or waterlogged land. Camellia planted in acidic or alkaline soil will grow poorly and even lead to plant death. Red yellow soil in the south, chernozem in the north, and humus soil (mountain mud) on the hillside are usually slightly acidic. But try not to use river mud, because the river water pollution is more serious now. If your camellia leaves gradually turn green and yellow, it means that the camellia soil is alkaline. Ferrous sulfate can be diluted according to the above instructions and then poured until it turns green again. Soil preparation: 50% of mountain soil (mature red loam for crops), 40% of sawdust or edible fungus residue, 65,438+00% of cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder, all of which are evenly mixed, properly watered, bagged and aged for more than 20 days in summer and autumn and more than 30 days in spring and winter. This kind of soil is not only loose and breathable, but also can keep fertilizer and water, which is suitable for the growth and development of camellia.

Third, sunshine.

Camellia is a semi-negative flower with long sunshine. Camellia leaves have phototropism, so they need suitable illumination, and they are afraid of direct high temperature and scorching sun, so they should have sufficient diffused light. Flower buds can only be formed in the environment of day length 12 hours. The optimum growth temperature is 18- 25℃, and the optimum flowering temperature is 10-20℃. If it is higher than 35℃, it will burn the leaves. Therefore, it is forbidden to burn the leaves due to long-term exposure to the hot sun. When the temperature is above 35℃ in summer (it is recommended to cover it with a fence and spray water around the ground several times a day to increase the air moderately.

After beginning of autumn, the temperature dropped, and camellia entered the flower bud differentiation stage, so the whole plant should gradually receive sufficient light. In winter, it should be placed in a sunny place indoors. If the indoor light is too weak, camellia will grow poorly and be prone to pests and diseases. In spring and late autumn, Camellia should be moved to the balcony or the ground with more sunlight to receive all-day illumination, so as to promote the growth and development of the plant, promote the differentiation of its flower buds and make the flower buds strong. When the sun is strongest in summer, it is necessary to move the flowerpot to a sunny and well-ventilated environment for maintenance. It can also be moved to the lower edge of the north balcony or Nanyang platform for maintenance. You can also cover plants with 75% sunshade net from 9: 00 am to 5: 00 pm to avoid direct sunlight, causing leaf trauma or plant withering. If possible, move the camellia under the shed to spend the summer safely. You can put it indoors in winter, but it is generally dry indoors in winter, so you should always spray water on the leaves of camellia to form a humid microclimate. But avoid spraying water in rainy days.

Fourth, temperature.

Temperature is an important condition for physiological activities of camellia. Camellia likes warmth. The optimum growth temperature is 65 08℃ ~ 25℃ and the relative humidity is 60 %~ 65%. At this time, it needs enough water and nutrients. The growth rate slows down above 35℃. Camellia is relatively cold-resistant, and generally -7℃ is not a big problem. If the indoor overwintering temperature is kept at 3 ~ 5℃, it can safely overwinter and bloom normally, and can tolerate the low temperature of-10℃ for a short time. Flowers will bloom above 0℃, and germinate ahead of time when it exceeds 16℃. In severe cases, it will cause defoliation and bud loss.

Verb (abbreviation for verb) water

Water directly affects the growth and development of camellia, and is the lifeblood of camellia. If there is too much water, camellia will grow white, inhibit flower bud differentiation, and even cause root rot or soaking death; If there is too little water, camellia will wither again, and normal life activities cannot be carried out. Camellia has many leaves, large leaf area and fast transpiration. Camellia likes humid climate and moist soil.

Potted camellia should be dried in winter, usually once every three days. When the temperature is high at noon, avoid accumulating water or pouring half water. This is because the growth of camellia in winter enters a dormant period, and the physiological water demand is reduced. In addition, it is too humid in winter, which is easy to cause the basin soil to freeze and damage the root system.

Pot soil should be wet in summer. This is because summer is hot and dry, and it is also a period of vigorous growth of camellia, which needs a lot of water. If the temperature is too high at noon, water it once every morning and evening. If the ground is dry, water or spray water 1 2 times on and around the flowerpot. It depends on the weather and the dry and wet conditions of the soil in the basin.

Camellia requires high fertilizer and water, and neutral and alkaline loam is not conducive to its growth. In the north, it is particularly important to pay attention to the acidification of alkaline water before watering flowers. The specific method is to store tap water in a bucket for a day or two to allow chlorine to volatilize. It is best to put 1% ferrous sulfate (about 0.5% of water) in the water to improve the water quality (you can also spray the leaves with 5% to 8% vinegar solution). Camellia usually needs to be watered with acidic surface water, which is suitable for dry and wet and dry. Too dry will affect the normal growth of plants, and too wet for a long time will cause defoliation. In rainy season, potted plants should be moved indoors in time to avoid water accumulation in flowerpots, but care should also be taken not to be too dry to keep the potted soil and surrounding environment moist. Don't spray water during flowering. Generally, water should be stopped at the end of spring shoots before germination to facilitate the transformation to reproductive growth, and water should not be stopped before flowering.

Six, fertilization

Camellia needs sufficient fertilizer to make it flourish and have certain ornamental value. If compound fertilizer is applied, the contents of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are 26%, 20% and 20% respectively, which is especially suitable for the growth and development of flowers. Nitrogen fertilizer can promote the growth of camellia and form lush plants; Phosphate fertilizer can promote the bright color and developed root system of camellia. Potassium fertilizer can promote the growth and health of camellia and the development of root system, which is beneficial to overwintering.

It should also be noted that in different growth stages of camellia, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium fertilizer and various trace element fertilizers should be applied in a timely, appropriate and appropriate manner to achieve good results. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed before application, and it is generally based on the principle of small amount and multiple fertilization. More nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in March before spring shoots germinate; In June of flower bud formation, more phosphate fertilizer should be applied; More phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied in September and after bud formation and flowering. Fertilization interval should not be less than 10 ~ 15 days.

Generally, when putting or changing pots, apply foot fertilizer at the bottom of pots. According to the size of the flowerpot, apply 3-80g of decomposed cake fertilizer powder or dried chicken and duck manure to each flowerpot, and put it under the flowerpot and mix well with the subsoil.

Generally, fertilization is not applied in February-April, and attention should be paid to the growth potential of planted beads. For weak seedlings with poor growth, we should apply less. The concentration should be light, and watering should be stopped before fertilization, so that the basin soil can be easily absorbed and dried. Don't splash the fertilizer solution on the stems and leaves when applying fertilizer, so as to avoid yellow spots on the leaves. If it is stained with fertilizer solution, it should be washed with clear water. Generally, a small amount of liquid fertilizer can be applied in April-May after germination in spring, once every 17 days, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied in summer. In the vigorous growth period of camellia, 1 time or twice a month should be used for root fertilization, and 0.2% to 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1% to 2% auxin should be sprayed on the leaves. Fertilization principle: light should not be heavy, light should not be thick, and less should not be more. We must adhere to the method of applying thin fertilizer often, especially not applying raw fertilizer.

In early autumn, the fertilizer can be stopped for about 65 months, 438+0 months and 9-1month, and appropriate topdressing is applied, and 20%-30% decomposed soybean water or chicken and duck manure solution is applied twice a month; 1 1 month later, in order to promote flower bud hypertrophy, liquid fertilizer can be increased (the concentration of liquid fertilizer can be increased to 40%-50%). Due to the rapid development of flower buds in autumn and winter, decomposed light liquid fertilizer should be poured once a week, followed by 1 ~ 2 times phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Too much nitrogen fertilizer is easy to scorch the flower buds, so we can apply less or no chemical fertilizer after flowering.

Usually, 10g cooked cake (pot diameter 25-30cm) can be used for fertilization; Compound fertilizer 2g/ pot; You can also use 0. 1% urea and 0. 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10-20 days, and the above fertilizers are used alternately. If the new shoots are yellow due to iron deficiency, 0.2% ferrous sulfate can be applied once a week until they recover. Apply 0.2% ferrous sulfate every 15-30 days to prevent yellowing and root rot in the north. Except when it is coldest and hottest in winter and summer, apply 1 to 2 times of decomposed cake water every month. Fertilization method: peel the soil around the basin for about 2 minutes, and apply liquid fertilizer into the ditch, that is, cover the soil to avoid odor. You can also spread the decomposed cake fertilizer powder on the edge of the pot and mix it well with the pot soil to let the flowers absorb it slowly.

Seven, suitable for the environment

Camellia likes to grow in an environment with moderate air flow, and the breeze is the best. It likes the water vapor brought by the southeast wind, but it is afraid of the northwest wind and strong wind, which makes the water evaporate too fast, the supply and demand of camellia lose balance, the leaves are easily damaged, and the phenomenon of falling flowers appears. Camellia in winter should be kept in a shady and sunny environment with a certain temperature and humidity. In spring and autumn, the flowerpot should be moved to the balcony, so that it is ventilated and transparent, and the breeze blows. This will not only help plants grow well, but also help flower buds to differentiate and grow, and reduce the occurrence of diseases and insect pests. Through years of practice, it has been shown that moderate ventilation and proper illumination can prevent diseases and insect pests.

Eight, plastic pruning

Camellia planted on the ground mainly prunes dead branches, weak branches, cross branches and over-dense branches, which obviously affects the branches of trees and sparse redundant buds. Besides the above work, potted camellia should be pruned according to personal preference, but it is not suitable for re-pruning because of its weak growth potential. Camellia is not intensively pruned. Its flowers, leaves and buds take a long time to develop, and the crown is relatively uniform. Basically, no special pruning is needed. Just cut off the branches of pests and diseases, too dense branches, weak branches and shortened branches.

Nine, flowering control

Mainly through variety selection, temperature control, hormone treatment and other means to achieve the purpose of early flowering or delayed flowering. For example, in order to delay flowering, late flowering varieties can be selected, and low temperature control (refrigeration above 2 ~ 3 degrees, storage of wrapped cold-proof plants) can delay flowering in January. In order to make it bloom early, it is necessary to choose varieties that bloom early, such as small powder, snow tower and scenery all around, and then apply heavy fertilizer and hormone treatment. The method is to stop the growth of camellia in spring. After the flower buds are formed, heavy fertilizer should be applied to make the shoots mature as soon as possible and stop growing. In mid-July or early August, apply 500 ~ 1000 ppm gibberellin to flower buds with a brush once every three days, and add reasonable water and fertilizer; Gibberellin should be applied in September according to the hypertrophy of flower buds. If it can't meet the requirements, it should be applied several times, supplemented by water spraying and topdressing, so that the flower buds will grow rapidly and bloom from late September to165438+1October.

Pests and diseases and their control

The main diseases of camellia are ring rot, anthracnose, shoot blight, leaf spot and bituminous coal disease. The main control agents are: bactericide 800 times; Carbendazim 500 times; Chlorothalonil 800 times; Kemeiling should be controlled 800 times regularly, and attention should be paid to the prevention and control of gray mold and flower blight before flowering.

Camellia pests mainly include red spider, aphid, scale insect, leaf roller moth, bridge builder and so on. The main control chemicals are cypermethrin15ml+isocarbophos 20ml or monocrotophos 25ml-30kg water spray.