Pruning is very important in grape cultivation. Pruning can adjust the balance between growth and fruit in time, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and reduce pests and diseases; It can help flower bud differentiation, promote the full development of fruit ears and grains, ensure that branches and fruits can mature in time and fully, and create outstanding conditions for the fruits of the current year and the following year. Grape pruning is a highly technical job, and the posture patterns adopted by small trees and fruit trees are different.

"123" rapid branching technique is often used for pruning young grape trees, that is, strong seedlings are cultivated in the first year, vines are released in the second year, and fruits are produced in the third year. Strengthen the management of fertilizer and water in the year of planting, realize the whole seedling, remove the seeds at least three times in summer, and the transverse diameter of seedling base will reach more than 8 mm at the end of the year. In winter, cut 70 ~ 100cm for main vines with good maturity, full buds and basal diameter greater than10 mm. The weak plants remain 1 bud stubble, and new branches sprout from the base in the second year. In the second year, I asked the main vine to be 2 to 3 meters long and the transverse diameter 15 mm or more to pick my heart many times in summer. When cutting in winter, the main vine is generally cut from the transverse diameter 12 mm, and the over-dense secondary branches are removed, and the retained secondary branches are pruned short or ultra-short. In the third year, the result of vine laying is correct, and it is required to lay vines for more than 2 meters to realize early fruit and early harvest. When cutting in winter, the main branches are cut at the transverse diameter of 8 ~ 10mm, and the length is generally no more than 40 winter buds. Leave 2-3 fruiting branches in each fruiting branch group, trim short branches and secondary branches, and leave 20-30 new branches per square meter in the whole frame surface, so that the fruiting mother branches are evenly distributed and high yield can be achieved year after year.

The following focuses on the methods of pruning young grapes in summer. Pruning young trees well in the summer of the year of planting can make grapes bear fruit early and ensure a certain high yield in the second year after planting.

1. Wipe the bud

Time is when the quality of buds can be distinguished. Leave the strong to the weak, leave the strong buds to grow close to the ground, and erase the rest.

Remove tendrils

Tendrils are harmful in the case of artificial cultivation, which not only hinders the growth of plants, but also consumes nutrients, so they should be pulled out in time when they are young.

Pick a heart

When young grape trees grow to 8- 10 leaves, they should be picked for the first time. After that, except for the top secondary branch, all other secondary branches should be smoothed, cultivated into main vines, and tied in time (but not too tightly). When the top secondary branch grows to 10- 12 leaves, the second coring is carried out. After coring, 1-2 leaves are left for repeated coring except for a pair of new buds at the top. However, in the rainy season, it is necessary to leave more leaves and pick cores to ease the tree potential, prevent the winter buds of the main vines from sprouting due to excessive rain, and ensure that they can bear fruit in the next year. After the second coring, when the main vine grows to about 1.6 m, core again. After that, 2-3 secondary buds are left at the top, and 4-5 leaves are repeatedly cored. From 10, all the growing points were cored once, and the young trees were pruned in summer.