First look at the pot button. The highest part of the pot is the pot button, and the traditional pot button forming process of light element circular devices is generally divided into four types:
1. Molding with the help of the mold-two pieces are closed. The rough worker can see the dividing line, but the fine worker can't see any trace at all. Round and full, with beautiful lines, but the mud door will be loose. If it is a hand-shaped bucket, the mud structure of the pot buckle will be different from the mud door of the bucket.
2. Pure hand molding (rough work)-Use Dorobou to rub out the shape while rotating, and then slightly reshape it. This kind of pot buckle is irregular in shape and has a high probability of crooked buckle, which belongs to the routine practice of early pots and ancient pots.
3. Hand shaping (second rough work)-pinch a slightly larger solid pot button, put it on the turntable and twist it into a shape with a lathe tool, and then apply grease to cover the lathe tool marks. The lower half of this pot button is often scratched by a horizontal wire drawing pattern and a horizontal knife, which belongs to the pure manual rough work of modern pot, and the mud door structure will be destroyed.
4. Pure hand molding (Seiko)-First, dig out a pot button according to the third method; Then, a bamboo tool is made by comparing the object on the car with the edge radian line. Make sure that the bamboo tools can just snap into the pot button, which is exactly the same as the pot button when leaving the car. Then according to the second way, rub out a pot button, press out the shape with a bamboo piece tool until the shape of the pot button is completely consistent with the radian inside the bamboo piece, and then light the needle. This kind of pot button has a compact mud door structure and will be beautiful.
Second, look at the cover. This part of the molding process is generally divided into two types:
1. Molding with the help of a mold-the conventional practice is to press the clay into a concave half-moon gypsum mold, forcibly push out the radian, and then round it. The appearance of this dummy will be very loose, and the particles of the burnt product will be collected. If the barrel is made by hand, the texture of the dummy will be different from that of the barrel. If soaked for a long time, you will find that the lid and barrel will change color to varying degrees.
2. Pure hand molding-the conventional practice is to spread the clay tablet on the "fan", which is a half-moon tool (such as eggs or spheres) that arches outward. Spread the mud on the "fan", pat the shape with a beat, and cut off the excess mud to get the shape. Because this virtual sheet is stressed inward, the mud door is more dense after being punched out, and the finished product effect is that the particles are extruded and raised.
Third, watch your mouth. This part of the molding process is generally divided into three types:
65438+ This kind of mouth looks even, round, stiff, inactive and unnatural.
2. Molding by means of a mold (2)-The dummy can be molded by hand, and the sub-opening part can be covered with a steel ring, and then connected to the cover after the shape is marked. This approach is very close to 1. The way to distinguish is the same.
3. Pure hand shaping-using skilled basic skills to manually punch out the mud pieces, splicing them by hand, and rounding them with tools. In this way, the thickness of the mouth is uneven, and the lines are full and natural.
Fourth, look at the barrel. This part is generally divided into three types:
1. Molding by means of a mold, that is, blank molding. There are Huff lines on the front and back of the barrel body, and there are many transverse drawing lines on the inner wall of the pot, which are horizontally arranged with the blank lines or have no traces at all. The appearance of the clay door is loose, the pulp is negative, and the particles are mostly adsorbed.
2. Pure Hand Shaping-The pot made by hand has been introduced many times before. The traces of the finished product include mud marks, shrinkage marks, appearance marks, uneven wave marks when backlit, etc ... The part to be emphasized here is the work of pure hand molding, and the mud door is tight, because the mud sheet is constantly stressed inward during the molding process, the particle structure is squeezed, and the sintered particles are squeezed outward. If you look at the real thing, it's easy to tell it apart.
3. Imitate manual marking-first, make clay tablets by hand, make barrels into seventy or eighty shapes, put them into plaster molds without putting negatives, then put on plastic film gloves and push them out slightly, then push them out of shape before putting negatives. Imitate the method of hand molding. This kind of pot has all the characteristics of pure manual molding process, including mud stool pattern, shrinkage cavity pattern, local pat mark, internal sealing of the pot and so on. But! Due to the outward part after being put into the gypsum mold, the structure of the mud will be loose, and the external structure of the sintered product will change. The more parts are pushed, the looser the structure of the mud door will be. In the end, it will imitate a hand-shaped pot, and there is no part that is externally stressed, and the particles will protrude in the backlog, and the part that is externally stressed will retract and flatten. Careful observation shows that there are many physical objects, which are easy to identify.