The diagonal trunk can be in an oblique inverted herringbone shape, with a height of 20 ~ 30 cm, and the two main branches extend to the southeast or northwest respectively. The waist angle of the main branch is 70 degrees, reaching 80 degrees when a large number of fruits are produced. When a tree is planted, it will stand upright and will not dry. After the seedlings germinate, pull them to the southeast at a waist angle of 70 degrees, choose a good bud at the corner, 30 cm from the ground, and cut it off above the good bud to promote the emergence of upright branches. In that win of the following year, the upright branch cultivate on the first branch is pulled to the northwest. In order to cultivate two main branches, it is necessary to control the upright branches on the main branches. The upright branches on the back of the two main branches are generally erased after germination, and the new upright branches are pulled into horizontal branches in summer when there is space. The extension of the main branch is not a shortcut. If the tree is weak, the extended branches can be slightly shorter. Small branches are planted on the two main branches, and cultivated by the method of releasing first and then shrinking, so that there are many branches without squeezing, the density is appropriate, the branches are left and right, and the branches bear fruit. Pay attention to the adjustment of branch groups. When there are few lateral branches, the upright branch group can be pressed down. When there are few drooping branches, the lateral branches can be pressed down, the young branches remain still, and the old branches do not fade. Branches are often updated by retraction, making branches shorter and stronger, rather than growing in vain. After bearing a large number of fruits, the branches adopt three sets of pruning methods, that is, the bearing branches in the current year account for 1/3 of the branches forming flower buds and growing branches, so that the bearing, flowering and growth are correct.
The bent trunk can be simulated as a folding fan, the crown is flat, and the trunk is bent into four horizontal main branches. The seedlings are not dry, and after they survive, they are pulled to a level. Choose a good bud at the bend and carve a wound on the top of the bud to promote the second main branch to grow upright and thrive. In the second winter, the second main branch is pulled horizontally in the opposite direction to the first main branch, and good buds are selected at the bend of the second main branch, and the third and fourth main branches are also cultivated. Branchlets are arranged on each main branch, and the sprouted new branches and upright branches on the main branch should be pulled into a horizontal or drooping state and cultivated into small fruiting branches. In the future, it is mainly to prune the fruiting branches.
The bent stem type does not need to pull branches, because the xylem of pear branches is brittle and easy to break. The trunk can be made into 2 ~ 3 bends with metal wires, and a main branch is distributed at each bend. Each main branch is also tied with metal wire to make it arc-shaped. Small and medium-sized fruit branches are planted at the top, and each branch group needs Pinza to make it bend horizontally. The bent stem type does not need to pull branches, because the xylem of pear branches is brittle and easy to break. The trunk can be made into 2 ~ 3 bends with metal wires, and a main branch is distributed at each bend. Each main branch is also tied with metal wire to make it arc-shaped. Small and medium-sized fruit branches are planted at the top, and each branch group needs Pinza to make it bend horizontally. Potted pear trees should be kept short, complete and compact after they enter the fruiting period. For potted trees with tall and thin trunks (less than 2 cm in diameter), they can be bent directly to dry. When the trunk is thick (more than 2 cm in diameter), they can be twisted and bent or forced to dry with multiple saws to reduce the height of the trunk. For pear tree stumps suitable for cliff stump bonsai, they can be bent down from the pot surface 10 ~ 20 cm, and tied and fixed along the pot edge.