1. Slow down the speed of pulling branches.

In the first ten days of August, during the vigorous growth period of autumn shoots, in order to alleviate the tree vigor, balance the branches and buds, and increase the lighting in the inner room, the growth angles of each branch must be opened in time for the flourishing tree with small branch angles and closed inner room. Generally, the main branch angle (especially the sharp angle) should be pulled to 75 ~ 80, and the auxiliary branch should be pulled to more than 90. The specific method is: before the branch is pulled, soften the bottom angle to make it reach the standard of branch pulling, and then pull the branch to the required position and angle. The degree of pulling branches is not round, bow, sky and ground, so that branches become a line. In addition, attention should be paid to keeping the central trunk upright, that is, strengthening the central trunk and adjusting the correlation of branches.

Touch the branches to soften them.

From the first ten days of August to the last ten days of September, when the new branches nearly stop growing or lignification, 3 ~ 5 erect annual new branches sprouting on the lower part of the extension head in the middle of the trunk or the competitive branches on the back of the main branch, and the 1 ~ 2-year-old robust auxiliary branches in the crown cavity should be smoothed and softened. The method is as follows: firstly, hold the branch base 7 ~ 10 cm by hand, and then bend (pinch) the branch repeatedly from inside to outside to avoid damaging the leaves and tissues of the branch until the vascular bundle in the branch makes a crisp fracture sound and cracks appear on the outside (back) of the branch. Generally, after smoothing the branches, the branches should droop or be horizontal, and at the same time bend to the parts with space. In order to enhance the pruning effect, it is best to do it continuously for 2 ~ 3 times every 7 ~ 10 days, which can inhibit the top growth, promote the germination of lateral buds and form short branches, and lay the foundation for the formation of flower buds in the current year or the next year.

3. Thinning branches adds luster

From the first ten days of August to the last ten days of September, first of all, for the big trees with full fruits and the middle trunk, the interlayer branches (i.e. auxiliary branches) that seriously affect the illumination in the inner room and disturb the tree structure should be removed, and at the same time, all the thick and tall branches on the back of the main branches should be compressed and the side light (commonly known as "skylight") should be turned on. Secondly, for the first-bearing branches and young trees of 2-3 years old, the peripheral upright branches, competitive branches, clustered branches with dense cavities and tender autumn shoots sprouting behind cutting and girdling (cutting) parts should be thinned out to supplement the internal light and prevent nutrient consumption. Third, sparse "skirt branches". It is necessary to shrink the lower branches, enhance the "lighting", improve the surface air circulation, promote the growth of the inner chamber and lower branches and leaves, which is beneficial to the fruit color. However, it should be noted that if there are fruits on the branches that need to be thinned, the branches should be thinned after the fruits are picked or when they are cut in the spring and summer of the following year, when the fruits remain temporarily and the branches have enough leaves. When there is too much autumn rain, the thin shoots in the inner room keep sprouting and growing, so it is necessary to wipe the buds frequently and thin the branches.

Gently cut the stone.

From early August to late September, all the auxiliary branches (buds) that have not stopped growing are lightly cut and peeled or trimmed with hats. The outer extension of the close-planted orchard is pitted every 25 cm 1 time, and the inner branch tip is pitted every 15 cm 1 time, and picked to the semi-lignified place. This can inhibit the vigorous growth of the tree, enrich the development of branches and buds, increase the number of branches of the tree, promote the hypertrophy and fullness of axillary buds, especially the formation of secondary branches and buds, and promote the compactness of fruiting parts, so that the tree grows moderately and is conducive to safe wintering.

5. Take root and control prosperity

From the first ten days of September to the middle and late days of 10, after the fruits are picked, the medium-ripe apples are deeply ploughed, and the roots are cut off by applying base fertilizer in autumn (early stage). Generally, it is required to open a ditch with a depth of 40-60 cm at a distance of 0.8- 1 m from the trunk, and cut off thick roots with a diameter of 2-3 cm, which can control vigorous growth, slow down growth, promote flowers, promote fine roots, increase the number and proportion of medium and short branches, and realize high and stable yield year after year. Root-cutting orchard should be mixed with fertilizer, potash fertilizer and organic fertilizer.

Folding branches

From early August to mid-September, for the perennial competitive branches on young trees and the low-level auxiliary branches on big trees in the fruiting period, before thinning immediately, because of the difficulty of opening angle, branches can be cut off to control prosperity and promote flowers, and the effect is extremely ideal. The method is as follows: cut the inner side (or upper part) of the base of the upright branch into 1/3 ~ 2/3 with scissors or a saw, and then pull it out hard to make it half-folded. A Xiao Mu wedge can be added at the folding mouth to fix its angle. The physiological function of broken branches is similar to girdling and sawing.

Pruning techniques of apple trees in winter

1. Key points of different apple tree pruning techniques in winter

Generally, the fixed trunk of slender spindle-shaped trees should be increased to 70 ~ 90 cm, and the higher the planting density, the higher the fixed trunk. If there is a good branch more than 50cm from the ground, it can be fixed about 30cm above the uppermost branch. If the branch on the seedling stem is not ideal, you can leave 2 ~ 3 buds on the branch, and then fix the stem at 80 ~ 90 cm. In order to ensure the strength of the central leadership, the central leadership can be tied to a temporary stick; In the first few years after planting, there is no need to cut short the central leadership; If the leading trunk is weak, it can be shortened to full bud to support the middle trunk. The main branches, small corner branches and competitive branches that are too thick and flourishing should be resolutely thinned out, so that the distance between adjacent main branches is 20 ~ 30cm and the distance between main branches on the same side is about 50cm. When the height of the tree reaches more than 3m, the head should be controlled in time. The extension branches of the main branches are generally not short and light, and all the main branches extend flat on one axis, and the branches on the main branches should not be too long. When the branch length exceeds 40cm, if the branch droops and weakens, it should be retracted in time to raise the branch; If the main branch bears too thick fruit for many years, or the fruit-bearing ability of the main branch decreases due to aging, the short pile of 1 ~ 2 cm should be left for thinning.

The trunk height of free spindle-shaped trees is generally 1m, and the minimum is 80cm. When more than 50cm above the ground, the buds should be carved according to the plastic requirements before germination, and the weight should be greater than the weight. When pruning in winter that year, the head of the weak branch was extended by the central trunk, and 40 ~ 50 cm was cut off, while the head of the strong branch was exchanged with the branch with lower competition. The doctrine of the mean slowly extends the head, and the main branch extends the head in the middle. The upper main branch angle is 60 ~ 75, and the lower main branch angle is 70 ~ 80. When cutting in the winter of the following year, the extension heads of the central trunk and main branches should be kept as long as possible without cutting. After 3 ~ 4a (year), the central trunk should pay attention to cutting buds and promoting branches, and leave small main branches according to the needs of plastic surgery. When the height of the tree grows to 2.5 ~ 3.0m, eat, drink and be merry in time.

The sparse tree with small crown is fixed at the full bud of 70 ~ 80 cm, and three directional and well-spaced buds are selected to promote the first layer of the three main branches. When pruning in winter that year, all the three main branches and the middle trunk were cut off with full buds, and 1 lateral branch was selected for each of the three main branches. The main branches at the base open to 60 ~ 70. 3 ~ 4-year-old trees are lightly cut, and the lateral branches and secondary and secondary main branches are selected according to the requirements of plastic surgery every year. If there is space, the extension head of the main side branch should be cut light and short, otherwise it should be put slowly but not short, and the temporary auxiliary branch should not be short. Through successive years of slow release and ring cutting, it can promote its flowering and fruiting. After the age of 5, there are plans to clean up the temporary auxiliary branches. When the tree is 3 meters high, it will bow its head happily.

2. Key points of pruning techniques for apple trees of different ages in winter.

The pruning of young apple trees in winter is mainly plastic, and the plastic results are equally important. The pruning principle of "light is the main factor, combining light with light" is adopted to make young trees take shape quickly, and at the same time, auxiliary branches are used to bear fruit early. The slender spindle shape is adopted when the plant spacing is 2m×3m, and the spindle shape or improved spindle shape is adopted when the plant spacing is 3m×4m. Pruning should be based on thinning, combined with short cutting, to prevent competing branches and long branches. Branches should maintain a good subordinate relationship with the main branch and the middle trunk, and focus on slowly releasing moderate branches on both sides of the main branch. Under the premise of not affecting the subordinate relationship and light, leave more auxiliary branches appropriately, put them out slowly and bear fruit early.

The pruning of apple trees in winter at full fruit stage is mainly to adjust the ratio of branches to fruits and light conditions, update the bearing branches, and achieve stable, high-yield, high-quality and high-efficiency. The pruning method of combining cutting, thinning and slowing is adopted. First, according to the space size, the auxiliary branches and super-large branches with large growth are thinned or shrunk to make the leaf curtain spacing reach 40cm；; The second is to remove the auxiliary branches within 25cm from the main branch to form upper and lower cylindrical light-transmitting columns; Thirdly, thinning the skirt branches and low-position main branches to improve the utilization rate of reflected light; Fourth, the falling head that has reached the tree height requirement is happy and makes full use of glazing. For large and medium-sized branches that have reached the renewal age, when there is no room for growth or strong branches around them, they should be thinned at one time. For branches with a certain growth space, strong branches, strong buds or short tails should be used for renewal, and branchlets will generally shrink in time after 2 ~ 3 years. The ratio of flowers to branches should be controlled between 1: 3 ~ 4 in winter pruning. In the New Year's tree, the redundant big branches, massive branches and twigs should be properly drained, the medium and long fruit branches should be broken, and the nutrient branches should be slowly released. In the next year, try to keep the flower buds, the middle branches are not folded or thinned, and the nutrient branches are appropriately cut short to prevent excessive flowers in the next year, and the delicate branches should be thinned.

3. Winter pruning of different apple trees

The pruning of wangshu is mainly to relieve the tree vigor, and the method of dispersion is adopted, such as increasing the angle of main branches, pruning as little as possible, cutting less or not, and carving more buds on 1 annual branches. For large branches that must be thinned or shrunk, branches can be left before flowering, and more flowers can be left at the same time to press the fruit tree.

The pruning of weak trees is mainly to rejuvenate the trees, and the centralized pruning method is adopted. When pruning, you should leave less flowers, cut short medium and long branches, use strong branches to extend branches, dilute weak branches, not big branches, so as not to cause damage, concentrate nutrients and restore the vitality of the tree.

The main reason is that the angle of the main branches at the grass-roots level is too large and there are too many branches left in the middle trunk. When pruning, the angle of the lower main branch should be raised appropriately, the angle of the upper main branch should be increased, the larger auxiliary branches on the middle main branch should be thinned out, the thick main branch should be replaced by auxiliary branches with appropriate orientation and angle, or the branchlets and side branches behind the base should be used for shrinkage pruning. There are fewer buds on the lower branches and more buds on the upper branches.

The main reason why the lower branches are strong and the upper branches are weak is that there are many main branches at the grass-roots level, the spacing between layers is small or strong branches of the same age are used, so pruning should be controlled to promote the upper parts. When there are too many main branches at the grass-roots level, 65,438+0 ~ 2 thick main branches should be uprooted every year, and the major branches and branches on the main branches should be drained or cut. For the strong main branches, switch heads with back branches and side branches, leave more flowers on the main branches at the grass-roots level, and press the branches to bear fruit. In the middle trunk, there should be fewer branches and fewer flowers, and in the middle trunk, short branches should be extended to enhance the tree potential. When pruning closed orchards, it is mainly to adjust the group structure and open the light path. Dry or shrink the thick main branches and auxiliary branches year by year, compress the large branches, dry the weak branches, dry the temporary plants when there is no space, control the height of permanent plants, keep the spacing between layers, and create conditions for long-term stable production.