Tree grafting method

Grafting methods commonly used in the growth of orange trees can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, especially in autumn, and the general survival rate is above 90%. When grafting, the rootstock should be treated first, and then the buds should be cut. T-bud grafting was adopted. Firstly, cut a T-shaped opening at the position of 3 ~ 5cm from the ground, and the depth is suitable to see the xylem and peel off the bark of the rootstock. Then carefully peel off the bark of the rootstock with the tip of the knife and quickly embed the shield-shaped petiole bud. After that, raise the soil to the height of 10 cm. 10 ~ 15 days later, dig to check the survival. If the bud is fresh and light green, the petiole will fall off as soon as it touches, which means it has survived, otherwise it has not survived, and it should be reattached behind the rootstock. After grafting, the sprouting seedlings are managed, and in the following spring, the cuttings are cut at 18 ~ 20cm above the sprouting point, and the binding is untied.

Reasonable pruning

There are two reasons for pruning oranges. First, the pot is small, the soil is small, and the nutrients provided are limited, which can not meet the needs of citrus growth and must be pruned. Second, through pruning, the rational distribution of nutrients in the tree can be adjusted, so that limited nutrients can be supplied to buds and leaves to form more fruiting branches, thus achieving full flowering and fruiting branches. The spring shoots of oranges must be pruned intensively before they sprout. First of all, we should remove dead branches, diseased branches, clustered branches, inward branches, cross branches and sprouting branches. Weakly cut strong branches, leaving 4 or 5 full buds; Strong pruning of weak branches leaves 2 or 3 buds, so that each branch can grow stronger spring shoots. After the spring shoots are fully grown, in order to control their imaginary length, they can be lightly cut and 3 or 4 branches can be cut off. When the new shoots grow to 6 ~ 8 knots, it is necessary to remove the heart to induce more summer shoots.

"lock water" before flowering

In order to prevent the excessive growth of summer shoots, at the same time, the tree should accumulate nutrients and promote the formation of flower buds, and "withhold water" for oranges before the arrival of summer. Specifically, it is to gradually reduce the water supply to oranges more than ten days before the arrival of the summer heat. In the first five days, the water was stopped, the basin soil was exposed to the sun, a lot of water evaporated and the soil was dry. Due to the lack of water in roots, branches and leaves lose water, and leaves wither and curl. In order to prevent dehydration of leaves, water can be sprayed on the leaves in the morning and evening, and a small amount of water can be sprayed on the soil at the same time, so that the axillary buds of oranges expand day by day without dying, and the color of the buds turns from green to white. When most axillary buds turn from green to white, "withholding water" promotes flower success. At this time, the water supply to oranges should be resumed in time.

Protect flowers and fruits

After oranges bloom, in addition to applying thin fertilizer once a week, they should also be thinned. Sparse some buds before bloom; After the flowers wither and set fruit, some young fruits in inappropriate positions should be thinned out to reduce the consumption of nutrients, so that the limited nutrients can be concentrated on the preserved flowers and fruits, and the fruits can grow bigger and better. In the process of fruit growth, if the fertilizer and water are sufficient and the plants are nutritious, some branches will sprout new buds, and the growth of new buds will inevitably divert some nutrients, which will affect the growth of fruits. In order to protect the fruit, the new buds should be smoothed in time. When the fruit turns yellow, stop fertilizing, reduce watering and keep the soil moist and slightly dry. If we continue to give too much fertilizer and water, the fruit will ripen and fall early, shortening the viewing time.

rational application of fertilizer

Oranges like fat, so we should apply more thin fertilizer at ordinary times. Apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once before the plants germinate, and then apply liquid fertilizer mainly containing nitrogen every 7 ~ 10 days to promote more branches and leaves and more spring shoots. Fertilize in time after each coring to promote the early maturity of branches. During the growth of oranges, you can sprinkle some cake fertilizer on the basin surface, so that some fertilizer will penetrate into the soil every time you water it, thus enhancing fertility. After autumn, fertilization will be reduced, plant nutrition will be avoided, autumn shoots will be promoted, and fruits will compete for nutrients, leading to fruit drop.

Vermicelli basin

Potted oranges have limited nutrient supply due to the lack of pot soil. After years of lack of soil fertility, oranges will weaken year by year, with fewer flowers and fewer fruits. In order to keep oranges blooming and bearing fruit every year, it is necessary to turn over the pots. The best time to turn over the pot is half a month before the oranges germinate. Before turning over the pot, prepare a pot one size larger than the original one, and take the oranges out of the pot without breaking the mud. Cut off the topsoil with a thickness of 1 and 2 cm along the mud lump, cut off dead roots and rotten roots, cut off the soil with a thickness of 1cm at the bottom of the mud lump, and take out the tiles embedded in the original pot bottom. The drainage holes of the new pool are laid with tiles. First, lay a drainage layer with a thickness of 2 or 3 cm, and then lay a layer of nutrient-rich culture soil with a thickness of 4 or 5 cm, which is mixed with a small amount of calcium superphosphate. Then put the orange mud balls into the pot, fill the cultivated soil around the mouth of the pot, slightly compact the pot soil, pour enough water, put it in a ventilated and semi-shady place, and put it back in place for daily management after one week.