pre-Qin period
The establishment of ancient Chinese costume system in pre-Qin period. According to relevant data, the clothing system was established in the pre-Qin period, which had a far-reaching impact on the later historical dynasties.
In the pre-Qin era, the costume of Huaxia nationality was characterized by a top with a skirt and a belt to take off the top. "Shuo Wen Jie Zi" said: "Dress the same day and dress the next day." The dress you are wearing is actually a skirt, not trousers. The "red belt" given by the Emperor of Zhou to his subordinates is a piece of red cloth hanging around his waist and abdomen. It is a symbol of noble clothing and status, also known as Wei. The clothes are right-handed with narrow sleeves, the length of the long clothes is up and down the knee, the collar is lapel, the skirt is decorated with lace, and there are no buttons, while the clothes of the conference semifinals are short sleeves and left sleeve boots. Prince Wu Zhao changed his clothes decisively. Abandon the lower skirt and put on pants, similar to the pants pleats of Donghu people at that time. Pleat refers to the coat worn outside, which is characterized by short and wide sleeves; Or a short robe with left sleeve. The left sleeve is the characteristic of Hu people's clothes, and the wide sleeve is evolved from the narrow sleeve of Hu people's clothes.
Hu people are used to riding horses and often have no fixed place to live, so they need to tie their personal objects to their bodies, so they tie a number of small rings on the leather belt and then tie their personal belongings to the leather belt. This is convenient to use and not easy to lose. King Wu Zhao also adopted this kind of belt.
the Spring and Autumn Period
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new type of clothing called deep clothes appeared. Features of deep clothing: long sleeves, especially for men and women, are the basic characteristics of clothing style and structure. People in the Warring States Period, Qin and Han Dynasties, regardless of rank. Both men and women wear thick clothes. The crown of a nobleman is a dress. The deep clothes of civilians are auspicious clothes. Short brown dress, deep coat connected to the hem. Wear it with a belt. A noble belt woven by nobles with silk. Extreme gentleman. Lateral breathing is very popular. The two ends of the belt are respectively connected with hooks and loops, which is called a substitute hook winding belt.
In ancient times, the style, specification, structure, and sewing of deep clothing were regulated by the system, and it was a kind of ancient clothing in China. From the emperor to the common people, regardless of rank, they can wear it, but the colors, costumes and materials are different. Later, it evolved into a robe-like robe that took off its coat. This kind of clothing has been popular in the later feudal dynasties, and it is a typical clothing style in ancient China.
There was no cotton in the pre-Qin period. The so-called "cloth" refers to clothes made of linen. The fine linen clothes worn in summer are called, and the robes and fur robes worn in winter are jackets worn inside, with silk wool inside. Those who fill some coarse cloth are called wet robes, which are underwear and can only be worn at home, not as dresses, and can only wear formal clothes when going out. A short robe is called a mattress, and a mattress is also called a coat. A mattress with poor texture is called brown, and hair is hair. The pre-Qin period was also dominated by winter clothes.
Qin and Han dynasties
There is no big difference in the clothing system between the Qin Dynasty and the Warring States Period, which keeps the basic form of China's deep service. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are Hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together to become a rigid suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "praising clothes and big skirts". In the Qin Dynasty, clothes were black.
Women in the Han dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts, the most famous of which was the fairy skirt.
According to legend, Zhao liked wearing skirts very much after becoming the queen of the Han Dynasty. Once, she wore a colorful purple dress and went swimming in a pool with Emperor Han Chengdi. Swallows danced and skirts fluttered in the sound of drums. Just then, the wind blew, and she was blown like a light swallow. Emperor Cheng ordered his attendants to hold her, only to catch her skirt in a panic. The queen was saved, but there were many wrinkles on her skirt. But strangely, the pleated skirt looks better than the one without pleats before. Since then, ladies-in-waiting have followed suit, which is the "fairy dress" at that time. 〕
Women's wear in Qin and Han dynasties: wearing long sleeves, long skirts and high-heeled silk shoes is a common style of women's wear in Qin and Han dynasties. Noble women are wrapped in scarves and skirts, embroidered with silk, embroidered with silk. The wall of an ordinary woman is not wrapped in a scarf, but covered with a piece of cloth. Sleeves are not as wide as aristocratic women, and skirts are not that long. In order to facilitate labor, an apron is needed outside the skirt. In the Qin and Han Dynasties, there were some changes in women's clothing, such as "the top is short and the bottom is long", and the skirt of the coat is narrow only to the chest, and the sleeves are still wide, which is called "narrow clothes and big sleeves". The length of the lower body mops the floor, especially the skirts of aristocratic women are longer, and even two maids are needed to support them when walking.
The costumes in the Qin and Han dynasties were richer than those in the pre-Qin period. The Book of Rites says, "Clothes are not silk pants." This is because pants are underwear, and Confucianism advocates simplicity and believes that underwear should not be cut with silk. In the Yuan Dynasty, those aristocratic men actually made trousers out of white silk, so they were called "dude". Ancient pants usually had no crotch, only leg tubes, which were connected together and tied around the waist with a belt, so they were called pants. "Interpretation of Names" said: "Yes. And the name of the service is different. " It's underwear. It can only be exposed. You must wear a skirt or thick clothes outside. Wear a short coat at work at the end of the year and hang a pocket of pants in the trench, just like the clothes used by sumo wrestlers. In the early song dynasty, you can still see this way of wearing. Squat shorts and scream. Short as a cow's nose, collectively known as nose pants. Sima Xiangru returned to Chengdu with Shan Wenjun, wearing oxnose pants as a furnace washer to humiliate Zhuo Wangsun.
Wei, Jin, southern and northern dynasties
In the history of our country, this period is basically divided, and the costumes of each dynasty are different. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, clothing changed twice. First, the pattern of China costumes was broken, and second, Hu costumes were absorbed and integrated into Han costumes.
Women's clothing: in terms of clothing style, it is greatly influenced by Hu fu, with a left front outside the robe and a short top and a long bottom. "undressing" means putting pants on your chest, and the skirt is long. The skirt of a noble woman is five feet long. Ordinary women, such as ordinary people or handmaiden, wear a leader's shirt, only covering the waist, and a long skirt with a long belt at the waist.
Sui and Tang Dynasties
In 58 1 year, Sui destroyed the northern country and established a powerful country. After the demise of Chen in 589, China was unified, just like the Northern and Southern Dynasties, which further integrated the northern and southern costumes. Sui was soon replaced by the Tang Dynasty, which ruled China for nearly 300 years. After a long period of inheritance and evolution, coupled with the strong national strength and extensive exchanges in the Tang Dynasty, the clothing system showed the continuity of the previous dynasty.
Women's clothing: Women's clothing in the Sui and Tang Dynasties showed a distinctive style, which was also related to the aesthetics at that time. At that time, plump figure was beautiful, and young women liked to wear men's clothes.
During this period, the dresses of the Queen, Crown Princess and other dignitaries were also very complicated and hierarchical. For example, the queen's costumes include: clothes, bow clothes, cymbals and clothes; There are three kinds of clothes for the Crown Princess: Zhai Yi, Juyi, Zhouyi and Yiyi. But there are fewer jewels than the queen's clothes; The dresses of other celebrities are simpler than the last two.
At that time, women's general clothing was also very rich.
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, both men and women wore double-breasted "suspenders", and a few were "pullovers". The neckline is wide and bare, and the short-sleeved ones have no sleeves. Because suspenders are more convenient to wear, ladies in the palace like to wear them, so they were designated as dresses at that time. Usually, women also wear suspenders, but they are inferior in clothing fabric, decoration and workmanship. The neckline, cuffs and hem are only made of dark thick fabrics, and the clothing is generally white.
At that time, another kind of clothing without sleeves was "monk", which was similar to and comparable to "monk". Wearing outside clothes, you can often see this kind of costume among Tang servants. There is also a kind of clothes worn outside the clothes called Shoushan, which is very short in shape and is usually worn by dancers. It is said that dancers usually wear Shoushan when they first appear, and they take off Shoushan halfway through the performance, revealing the beautiful embroidered dresses they wear inside, which makes the guests look brand-new.
Generally speaking, women's dresses in Sui and Tang Dynasties are varied and colorful, with gorgeous, gorgeous, free and easy and sloppy artistic style. Through these costumes, the beautiful and full charm of beautiful women in Sui and Tang Dynasties is fully displayed.
Back, half arm, vest and crotch are worn by both men and women. Among them, Beizi changed greatly in the Song Dynasty, and Beizi was also called Xunzi. Although this style was worn by both men and women in the Song Dynasty, the requirements for its use form and time are different, and different people wear it differently.
Song Yuan Ming Qing Dynasty
Generally speaking, women's clothing in the Song Dynasty was narrow, thin, long and strange, except for the long sleeves and fat skirts that were popular in the Northern Song Dynasty.
Women's Clothing in Song Dynasty
Women's clothing in Song Dynasty is more complicated. This is also the essence of clothing development from ancient times to the present. At that time, many costumes were unique and varied, showing the grand occasion of a hundred schools of thought contending. Later, the government had to order that women's clothes should obey their husbands' clothes, and women in ordinary families were not allowed to wear colorful clothes made of silk. But people didn't abide by this rule at that time, and the atmosphere of fashion and prosperity increased. At that time, there was a preference for "exotic clothes" and foreign clothes were adopted. Later, the emperor ordered everyone who wore Qidan clothes to be beheaded, but the fashion at that time was unprecedented.
Ladies' casual clothes in Song Dynasty are fashionable, thin and long, which is different from previous periods. The color matching of clothes also broke the convention that red, purple, green and cyan were the main colors in the Tang Dynasty, and various colors such as purple, black, purple, scallion, silver gray and agarwood were used. The color tone is elegant and quiet, and the relatively advanced neutral gray tone is reasonably used. Clothing patterns have also been changed from more regular Tang dynasty patterns to sketches, which are more lively and natural.
Ordinary women, especially professional women or servants, still wear narrow-sleeved shirts. Only thinner and longer than those in the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the color is mainly white, and the others are light crimson and light blue. Tight pants are also short, and blue and white are the most common colors. Shirt is one of the most common clothes, and most of the shirts of women in Song Dynasty are decorated with embroidery. Most of them are round neck, horizontal collar, straight collar and double-breasted with thin waist, many hems and long openings. Generally, the fabric is made of light and soft materials such as yarn, twill and silk.
Tui and coat are similar clothes. Tui is short in appearance, generally with open waist, double-breasted hem, long sleeves and narrow body. There are single pairs, single pairs of similar shirts and coats. Usually, the clothes of aristocratic women are mainly purple and yellow, with embroidery and embroidery. Ordinary women are mostly green, white and brown, and elderly women also like to wear purple clothes.
A coat is mostly a winter coat with lining or cotton pad, which can be used instead of a robe. In the Song Dynasty, the wearing of robes was restricted, and most other folk women were not allowed to wear them except maids. After that, it was stipulated that the robe color of the servant girl should be purple above grade three, embroidered with crane grass, yellow below grade three, and not embroidered. As for the color of the coat, there is no restriction except white as a "fierce suit", and you can choose according to your own preferences.
Narrow-sleeved clothes are a kind of casual clothes popular among women in Song Dynasty. The style is double-breasted, crossed collar, narrow sleeves and knee-length clothes. It is characterized by being very thin and narrow, even close to the body. Because this kind of clothing is novel and saves materials, it quickly became popular. Not only noble women like to wear them, but ordinary women also follow suit. This also shows that Song people pay attention to economy and practicality, and try to save clothes except bun, which is not only convenient for action, but also exaggerates the curvaceous beauty of women.
At the same time, there is also a popular lapel style, knee-length narrow sleeves. When making, add two narrow embroidered edges to the lapel. Lapels are generally triangular, and sometimes you have to wear silk and lace at the waist, both of which are made into various chain knots.
At the end of the Song Dynasty, narrow sleeves were popular, and the front and back sides were slit. There are many buttons at the seam as decoration, which is called "Secret Door" and "Demon Clothes", and it is one of the strange clothes in ancient times.
In the Northern Song Dynasty, women liked to split their skirts to facilitate riding, and rich women also liked to wear them at home. This custom remained even in the Yuan Dynasty (mainly in the court).
In Song Dynasty, women's trousers were not exposed, that is, skirts, most of which were covered inside. However, there are also people who wear pants alone and don't wear skirts outside, but this is the costume of lower-class women. There was embroidery on the pants in the Song Dynasty, but also the crotch-less pants were kept.
At that time, women's underwear had tube tops and belly wraps. The shape of the two is almost the same, but the top of the tube is short and the belly is long. A tube top can sometimes be worn outside. In the Song Dynasty, women and men wore a waistline around their waists, that is, "waist yellow" was also tied up with blue and white strips of cloth.
In Song Dynasty, women wore a short jacket with narrow sleeves and a long skirt. Usually, they wear small long-sleeved coats and double-breasted jackets, much like vests today. The neckline and front of the coat are embroidered with beautiful lace. In the early Song Dynasty, all the costumes followed the costume system of the late Tang Dynasty. After the promulgation of the new system, it was gradually divided into sacrificial clothes, royal clothes, official clothes (also called official clothes in the Song Dynasty), seasonal clothes (clothes for civil and military courtiers in season), military uniforms and mourning clothes. The costumes of women in Song Dynasty are similar to those of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, wearing elegant long skirts in various colors. Long-sleeved double-breasted lapels are usually worn on the outside of clothes, and embroidered edges are painted on the neckline and the front of lapels, which is called "wiping the lapels". The main features of Song Dynasty costumes are freshness, simplicity, naturalness and elegance.
In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had pants. Its pants are a special form, including not only close-fitting pants, but also multi-layer pants. In the Song Dynasty, women had the custom of binding their feet, so the skirts didn't reach the ground to show their feet.
Khitan and jurchen usually wear long coats and boots with narrow sleeves and knees, which are suitable for hunting immediately; Women wear narrow sleeves with a collar and a full back. They are all left-handed. Contrary to the Han people, the fishing piers they used to wear are widely popular in the mainland.
Women's Clothing in Yuan Dynasty
Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty also includes the costumes of Mongolian women and local women. Han women still retain the dress system of the Song Dynasty, including thin backs, shirts and cloud shoulders. And they wear pleated skirts and usually comb their hair. Later, under the influence of Mongolian women's clothing, more and more people put on robes made of dark brown coarse cloth or silk, with narrow sleeves and large belts. In addition, all kinds of single-breasted jackets, cotton-padded double-breasted jackets and half-sleeved jackets were popular among women in this period. Different from the costumes in the Tang and Song Dynasties, Mongolian women's costumes had their own national characteristics. Mongolian women wear robes. Mongolian women wear a wide and long robe with a collar on the coat on the right. The sleeves are big but the cuffs are narrow, which is equivalent to the current bat shirt form.
Women's wear in Ming dynasty
The dress of women in Ming Dynasty was different from that of the previous generation, but the influence of Scheeren and Yuan Dynasty could still be seen in the early Ming Dynasty. The left hand and narrow sleeve robes can still be seen. Generally, narrow-sleeved shirts, suspenders and long skirts are all women's fashions. Women's skirts in Ming Dynasty changed a lot, and they were popular clothes. In the Ming Dynasty, aristocratic women used Zhen Hong, crow green and yellow, while ordinary women could only use purple green, pink and light color.
Beizi is one of the costumes of aristocratic women in Ming Dynasty, also known as "cloak", which is similar to Beizi and vest of the previous generation. Generally worn in autumn and winter, women generally wear it as a gift. The style is big sleeves and wide body. Musicians can wear black backs.
Gabby was originally a clothing style in the Yuan Dynasty, but it was especially popular with women in the north. As daily wear, there are stand-up collar double-breasted buttons, rolled collar or cross collar, sleeveless or short sleeve, which are as long as arms or knees, and some are longer than one foot from the ground. Since buttons were introduced in the Yuan Dynasty, buttons have also been used in Gabby, which is a new change in clothing. Gabitong often wears a skirt under a big sleeve shirt and coat, so the color matching of Gabitong's shirt, coat and skirt can show a sense of hierarchy. In the Qing dynasty, except for the old lady who was afraid of cold and wore cotton cloth, Gaby was generally not worn.
Long coats and long skirts are a kind of casual clothes. The style of long coats is stand-up collar, cross collar or double-breasted collar, the collar is fastened with metal buttons, and the narrow sleeves, collar and hem are edged. Unlike coats before the Ming dynasty, they generally reach the knees, so they are called "long coats"; Purple and green are commonly used in clothing colors; The material of the coat is generally satin, satin, and the pattern on the coat is similar to a large sleeve shirt, which is usually embroidered.
In the Ming Dynasty, due to the prevalence of foot binding among women and the pursuit of "walking without showing your feet", aristocratic women all wore long skirts to cover the feet of Jinlian. The skirt is embroidered with winding branches, or embroidered with lace an inch or two below the skirt as a presser foot. At first, six skirts were used, which was also a ritual in ancient times. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the so-called "skirts dragging six Xiangjiang rivers" had become eight.
Women in the Ming Dynasty also had a kind of underwear called "waist-girding". It is a kind of dress that surrounds a woman's chest, exposing her shoulders, arms and the upper part of her chest. It is different from the Chinese corset. It is made of wide tulle, some buttons and embroidery.
In the Ming dynasty, women used to wear a blouse or a cloud shoulder over their skirts. Bi Xia, Guan Feng, is the dress of women in Ming Dynasty, and it is also the dress used by empresses when they attend sacrificial ceremonies and other important ceremonies. The whole crown is decorated with dragons and phoenixes, which are worn with Xiaguan. Buttons were widely used in the Ming Dynasty, mainly used in dresses, but rarely used in uniforms, and became popular in the late Ming Dynasty.
Women's Clothing in Qing Dynasty
The most remarkable thing about women's wear in Qing Dynasty is the function of buttons. In the past, buttons were mainly used in dresses, but in the Qing Dynasty, buttons became an indispensable part of all kinds of clothes. Buttons were originally just decorated on the collar, which changed the collar of the collar and the collar of the plate from the ancient straight collar to the high collar. It turns out that the neck is always exposed, and with the button, it can be avoided.
In Qing Dynasty, Han women generally wore narrow-sleeved tops, shirts, waistcoats, skirts and trousers.
Cheongsam is a very popular robe among Manchu women, and later became one of the main clothes of Han women. The cheongsam worn by Manchu in Qing Dynasty was very different from the dress later called cheongsam, but later cheongsam was developed on the basis of Manchu robes. Qipao, which is extremely wide at first, has a tubular waist, and then gradually becomes smaller. Round neck, right collar, high collar or low collar, the high collar can reach about two and a half inches in the late Qing Dynasty. Cheongsam is divided into single, clip, cotton and leather, all of which are distinguished according to the changes of seasons. Robes are generally light in color. When Manchu women wear cheongsam, most of them like to cover it with vests.
Most of the costumes of Han women in Qing Dynasty followed the Ming Dynasty. Usually I put on a coat, shirt and skirt, and then I don't wear a skirt, but wear pants instead.
Coat shirts are mostly round neck, right lap, big lap, double lap, pipa lap, big sleeves and exquisite tailoring. Coat materials are mostly cotton, satin, yarn, silk and so on. And there are batik prints. Colors are sky blue, lake blue, pink, white and red. Fur such as mink and fox skin is also used in winter. The wrapping is also extremely complicated and exquisite. At that time, there was a saying of "eighteen embedments".
Generally, a good skirt has many styles. For example, the women's "white pleated skirt" in Suzhou has hundreds of "horse-face skirts" with similar knees and left and right pleats, which are also called "Yuet dress". Because every pleat of the skirt is covered with five colors, it is named Mingyue. There is also a kind of "playing with ink skirt", which plays with ink on the skirt mouth, elegant and chic, like an ink painting, rendering various changes; In addition, there are phoenix-tailed skirts, fish-scale pleated skirts, foreign-printed skirts, golden-mud butterfly skirts, embroidered phoenix skirts, full-flowered skirts, a jade skirt, a devil railing skirt, a rolled skirt with ornaments, and a jingling skirt, each with its own characteristics, which only highlights the slender women.
In the Qing dynasty, underage women all wore pants. Pants with high waist, folded crotch and long feet are not as fat as men's pants. When you wear it, tie the waist with a long belt and use the rest as decoration. Women's trousers are richer in colors and patterns than men's trousers, so you can choose according to your own preferences. In addition, women's trousers have a * * * similarity, that is, there are all kinds of frills on the trouser legs. In Guangxu, there were several layers of edges on trousers. The first layer was the widest, and the second and third layers were narrow. It's time to go to Xuan Tong. The trouser legs are thinner and narrower, and the hem is less than before.
The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them.
Republic of China women's dress
In 1930s, cheongsam entered its heyday. On the basis of tradition, the style of cheongsam in this period widely absorbed the characteristics of western suits, making it a combination of Chinese and western clothing, and constantly innovating and changing. It is the clothing industry in Shanghai that dominates its changes. At that time, there was a popular song: "Everyone learns from Shanghai, but it is difficult to learn from Shanghai. By the time he learned from it, Shanghai had already pulled out its tricks. " It can be seen that the speed of women's wear change at that time and people's fascination with Shanghai style clothing. During this period, the style of cheongsam changed mainly in the collar, sleeves and length. First of all, the high collar is popular, and the higher the collar, the more fashionable it is. Even in midsummer, on a cheongsam as thin as a cicada's wing, it must be accompanied by a hard collar as high as the ear. But soon, low collars became popular again. The lower the collar, the more "modern". When it is too low, simply omit the collar. The same is true of the change of sleeves, sometimes longer than wrists and even longer; Sometimes short is very popular, as short as bare elbows. As for the length of cheongsam, there are many changes. At one time, it was popular to sweep the floor without clothes. Later, it was changed to be short to the knee and even exposed to the thigh.
Since the 1940s, the style of cheongsam has changed slowly. The general trend is more and more simple, the length and sleeve length are shortened, and the collar is mostly low-necked. Especially in summer, sleeves are mostly omitted, and many complicated lace decorations are omitted, making it more concise, light and fit.
For a long time, the cutting method of women's wear in China has been straight, and the chest, shoulders, waist and buttocks are completely straight without obvious twists and turns. This kind of clothes is usually stored in wooden cases and can be folded into squares. After the 1920s, women in China had a sense of "curvaceous beauty", changed their traditional habits and began to tailor their clothes. These clothes are not only equipped with shoulder pads, stiff collars, but also with chest straps, so they are suitable for hanging in large cabinets and rarely folded for storage. From the style point of view, the waistline of women's coats in this period is relatively narrow, the collar is very low and the sleeves are slightly shorter. The hem of clothes is mostly curved, and the collar, sleeves, lapels, ruffles and other parts are edged with lace. The skirt is obviously shortened, rising from the instep to the knee, and the skirt pleats are removed to let it droop naturally. The edge of the skirt is embroidered with various kinds of lace, and some have added colorful jewels to make it shine. During the Republic of China, women liked to hang necklaces around their necks, and some pendants were made into heart-shaped boxes containing jade photos. Stud earrings hang in the ear. Because there was no perforation at that time, mobile phone clips were often used to make earrings. Most of them wear rings on their fingers, and gloves or watches on their wrists are better. There is a pin on the chest. When women go out, they usually carry small and exquisite handbags and beautifully made silk umbrellas. Jewelry used by women in upper-class society strives to match each other, and requires consistency in material, style and color. In terms of wearing methods, there are also differences due to different ages: for example, young women wear long earrings, while middle-aged women wear rice-shaped, bead-shaped or ring-shaped earrings, which are close to the earlobe; Young women's necklaces are usually hung higher, and the colors of pendants are brighter, while older women wear gold and silver chains.