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Bright? The jewels/claws are gone! Van Cleef & Arpels Hidden Mosaic Hyun 3 Technology
Reporter Chen Yayun/

When it comes to the secret inlay method which can show the beauty of precious stones without exposing the metal inlay, the first association is the French jewelry brand Van Cleef &; Arpels), since 1933 was patented, this technology is most commonly used in the works of ruby, sapphire and emerald. Gems, such as gorgeous fabrics, are perfectly attached to the surface of jewelry, and the secret lies in the metal mesh below. Keeping pace with the times, the brand has launched a mysterious Vitrail suit that can show transparency in recent years. The secret mosaic method of colored glass and the secret mosaic method of Navette mysterious suit, which create three-dimensional effect, continue to perform mysterious tricks.

▲ Caress D' with traditional white diamonds and rubies? O 'Leffer brooch (left) and Louvre brooch.

The traditional secret inlay technology originated from the secret inlay technology of 1933, which embeds gems in a metal grid less than two tenths of a millimeter thick, so the gems are suspended on the metal and covered on the jewelry surface without external support. According to Van Cleef & Arpels' calculation, it takes at least 300 hours to make a brooch, so the annual output is very scarce. The most representative work is the fairy-shaped Fu D? Ole fairy brooch, Louvre brooch shows vivid petal lines.

▲Vitrail mysterious suit is secretly inlaid to create a translucent relief effect.

▲ Secret inlay technology was first seen in Libellule brooch (left) of 20 14 years, and Panache Mystérieux brooch inlaid with diamonds and colored sapphires.

If the traditional secret setting is to highlight the rich colors of gems, then the secret setting technology of colored glass published by Van Cleef & Arpels 20 14 is to show the transparency of gems. The wings of the first work, Libellule dragonfly brooch, show the effect of increasing reflection and relief. The secret of making another piece, Panache Mystérieux feather brooch, is that one side of the gem is cut into a vault, the back side is cut in a faceted way, and hidden gold inlays are embedded to create a translucent effect like colored glass.

▲ Pomme de pin pinecone brooch inlaid with horse-eye emeralds and diamonds is the first work of Navette Mystery Set secret inlay technology.

After 65,438+00 years' research and production, Van Cleef & Arpels launched the Pomme de pin pine pin brooch in 2065,438+08, using brand-new horse-eye gems. The first challenge is for gemologists to select ***92 crystal emeralds, and the second challenge is to polish them into a micro-arched posture to show the pinecone curve, but emeralds are fragile, which greatly increases the difficulty of inlay. At the same time, we should also consider avoiding the influence of metal claws on diamond clarity. The workshop took 4,500 hours to form a three-dimensional layer like a pine cone with overlapping emeralds and diamonds, which is lifelike.

? Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Grass Necklace adds good luck, and short training and hand training are fashionable.