China's dressing system began to appear in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and gradually improved in the Zhou Dynasty, and was included in the category of "rule by courtesy". At that time, the clothes were different according to the identity and status of the wearer. Emperors, queens, officials, and bureaucrats are increasingly strict in their clothes, costumes, and hierarchy.
The clothing form in Shang and Zhou Dynasties mainly adopted the top-down system, and the clothes were positive colors, that is, five primary colors: blue, red, yellow, white and black. Intermittent color of clothing is a mixed color mixed with positive color. Small sleeve is the most popular dress, and the length of the dress is usually at the knee. The collar, sleeves and edges of clothes have different patterns, and the waist is tied with thin strips. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new kind of clothing appeared, called "Deep Clothes", which is a kind of one-piece clothing. The appearance of deep clothes has changed the previous single clothing style, so it is deeply loved by people. It is not only used as a blessing and a dress, but also as a sacrificial dress.
During the Warring States period, the birth of Khufu broke the old clothing style. Khufu's jacket, trousers and boots are designed to be good at riding and shooting and easy to move, which is very popular in the army.
Shoes in the pre-Qin period were mainly shoes, shoes and boots. Among all the shoes, ponding is the most expensive. In the Zhou Dynasty, monarchs and kings had three colors, white, black and red, which were worn on different occasions. Shoes are high-top casual shoes made of leather; Boots come from the Western Regions and are worn by Hu people when riding horses and shooting arrows. Later, the Han people gradually accepted them.
2. Qin and Han costumes
During the fifteen years when the Qin Dynasty ruled China, Qin Shihuang accepted the flags of the six countries and established the system of dressing. The costumes of the Qin dynasty are still conjoined, with wide sleeves and big robes, and it is strictly forbidden to take them.
The rank of costumes in the Han Dynasty is mainly reflected by crowns, hats and ribbons. Different official positions have different crowns and hats. Therefore, the crown system in Han dynasty costumes is particularly complicated, with as many as 16 kinds. There were also strict regulations on shoes in the Han Dynasty: all sacrificial clothes should be worn, the wearing rate of court clothes was high, and shoes should be worn when going out. Women should wear clogs when they get married, and they should draw colorful pictures and tie colorful ribbons on them.
3. Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties costumes
The costumes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties still inherited the old system of Qin and Han Dynasties. When the Northern and Southern Dynasties just established political power, all ethnic minorities still dressed according to their own customs. Later, influenced by the Han culture, they began to wear Han costumes.
The costumes of the people in the Central Plains, especially casual clothes and uniforms, have absorbed the characteristics of many northern nationalities on the original basis, and the form of clothes is suitable for the body. In the Six Dynasties, men wore robes and low skirts, while women wore robes and double skirts, which was very beautiful. For the costumes of this period, please refer to scrolls such as Ode to Luoshen and Biography of Lienv.
The costumes of the Northern Dynasties are characterized by fitted trousers, short robes and various boots. The dress is narrow and short, and the skirt and waist are slightly warped. Women's clothes are mostly decorated with hairpin flowers, pearls and various corollas, which led to the customization of rockhopper in Song Dynasty.
Nanchao clothing beichao clothing
Free and easy Wei and Jin demeanor, embroidered with concentric chicory-gold.
4. Clothing of Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties
The costumes in the early Sui Dynasty were relatively simple. Robes and Hu clothes were the main costumes at that time. Since Yang Di in the Sui Dynasty, the social atmosphere has changed and the costumes have become increasingly gorgeous. This gorgeous style lasted until the Tang Dynasty.
The car and clothing system in the early Tang Dynasty was inherited from the Sui system. It was not until 62 1 year that the car service order was officially promulgated and the crown service system began to be established. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's economy and culture. Painting, sculpture, music and dance in the Tang Dynasty absorbed foreign skills and styles and adopted an inclusive attitude towards foreign costumes. This makes the costumes of this period shine brilliantly and have the characteristics of the times. Due to the exchange of Chinese and western cultures, many novel costumes appeared in the Tang Dynasty, and Khufu had a great influence during this period, especially in the production of pants and pleats. Clothing in Qin and Han dynasties, such as horizontal collar, undressed blouse and long skirt, was gradually eliminated and replaced by standing collar, tight sleeves, fitted blouse and thin skirt. Clothing gradually opens, emphasizing the aesthetic feeling of the body, with shawls or Hu Mao; Besides high heels, there are also small boots. Coupled with the development of textiles, a lot of light and soft fabrics have been developed, so transparent multi-level wearing began to lead the coquettish. The most representative clothing features in this period are: topless, high waist, shawl, colourful clothes, men's clothes, Hu clothes and so-called "fashionable clothes".
Ladies in the Tang Dynasty wore skirts, and their waists were particularly high, even higher than their chests. The colors of skirts are red, purple, yellow and green, of which red is the most popular. The dress is topless and short, with a wide shoulder towel and high-headed cloud shoes. Women's clothing shows sexy charm, among which the use of bright-colored clothing is famous. Ming Yi was originally a single garment, made of sheer gauze. In the past, it was only worn as underwear. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, Mingfu was used as a coat and became a costume.
Dressing up as a woman is also one of the costume features of the Tang Dynasty. Wear narrow-sleeved round neck robes, belts and trousers. In addition, you can wear Khufu, Hu Mao and women disguised as men. These clothes have wide sleeves, narrow sleeves, round neck, lapels and uppers, which were very distinctive at that time.
5. Song Dynasty costumes
In the early Song Dynasty, all the costumes followed the costume system of the late Tang Dynasty. After the promulgation of the new system, it was gradually divided into sacrificial clothes, royal clothes, official clothes (also called official clothes in the Song Dynasty), seasonal clothes (clothes for civil and military courtiers in season), military uniforms and mourning clothes. The costumes of women in Song Dynasty are similar to those of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, wearing elegant long skirts in various colors. Long-sleeved double-breasted lapels are usually worn on the outside of clothes, and embroidered edges are painted on the neckline and the front of lapels, which is called "wiping the lapels". The main features of Song Dynasty costumes are freshness, simplicity, naturalness and elegance.
In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had pants. Its pants are a special form, including not only close-fitting pants, but also multi-layer pants. In the Song Dynasty, women had the custom of binding their feet, so the skirts didn't reach the ground to show their feet. Women's elbow boots are small and exquisite in shape.
In the Song Dynasty, fabrics were very developed, and clay, printing, gilding, painting and embroidery were widely used in clothing. The texture of the fabric is light and elegant, giving people a sense of beauty.
6. Clothing in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties
After the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, China society successively appeared political power with Liao, Xixia, Jin, Yuan and other ethnic minorities as the main body. Although some of the costumes of these ethnic groups have been preserved in Chinese, they reflect the characteristics of ethnic minorities more.
The dress system in Liao Dynasty was not unified. The costumes of the Jin Dynasty were not complete at first, and it was not until the Yuan Dynasty that the costumes became more and more mature and gorgeous. The costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were collectively called robes, and there was little difference between men and women. Made of gorgeous woven gold cloth and precious fur; However, due to the national nature, it can be divided into Mongolian and Chinese. The typical Mongolian crown costume is a robe with "menstruation crown" as the main part. Long skirt and knee-length soft leather boots are the dresses worn by imperial concubines in the Yuan Dynasty. Women's dresses made in the Han Dynasty generally followed the style of the Song Dynasty, with long sleeves or narrow sleeves, and often wore long sleeves and narrow sleeves, pleated skirts, trousers and shallow shoes, which were the characteristics of clothing at that time.
7. Ming dynasty clothes
The Ming Dynasty attached great importance to rectifying and restoring the traditional etiquette of the Han nationality. First, the clothing system of the Yuan Dynasty was abandoned, and then according to the traditional customs of the Han nationality, the Zhou Dynasty and the Tang and Song Dynasties were adopted, which made new regulations on the clothing system.
Men's wear in Ming Dynasty restored the traditional characteristics of Tang and Song Dynasties, with robes and shirts as the main features. The robe is still bareheaded; Civil and military officials wear Guan Liang and red clothes when offering sacrifices; The number of beams on the crown and the level of ribbons worn; Officials wear robes, collars, right slits, sleeves three feet wide and made of silk or yarn. Color customization of robes: one to four items, five to seven items of green, eight to nine items of green, and various patterns are embroidered according to grades. Uniforms are relatively simple, generally consisting of a black hat, a collared shirt and a belt.
Women in Ming Dynasty mainly wore shirts, jackets, summer clothes and skirts. Most of the styles of clothes were copied from the Tang and Song Dynasties, which restored the customs of the Han nationality. Ordinary women's dresses in the Ming Dynasty can only be purple coarse cloth, and gold embroidery is not allowed. Robes can only be used in light colors such as purple and green, and red and yellow are not allowed. Women's wear in Ming Dynasty can be divided into formal clothes and casual clothes. Formal clothes are wide coats and long sleeves, while casual clothes are fit, narrow and slender, mainly long coats and long skirts. During this period, the use of Yun Jian and Gaby (long vest) is the most distinctive. Ladies in Ming Dynasty wore pleated skirts with narrow sleeves, advocating narrow body. In the Ming dynasty, women liked to wear Gaby as a kind of clothing for traveling, with thin pants or big pants.
Foot-binding was popular in Ming dynasty, which is very beautiful. Clothing is mostly decorated with flowers, like purple, green, pink and all kinds of light colors. As for red, crow green and yellow, only royalty can use them.
8. Qing Dynasty clothing
The winter clothes of Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi and Empress Dowager Cixi are all decorated with gold pieces, sea dragons, red gold satin and azurite satin.
Great changes have taken place in the costumes of the Qing Dynasty. The content of women's wear in Qing Dynasty is mainly flag dress, including: cheongsam, blouse, gown, wide trousers, wide pleated skirt and so on. This kind of clothing is mostly closed collar and right slit. The collar, lapel and sleeves are decorated with wide hem, and the sleeves are short and wide, reaching to the hands. The side of the robe has a high slit, and the bottom is wide pants and flowerpot shoes. Some Qing dynasty costumes followed the style of Ming dynasty, with long clothes and big shirts as coats, short sleeves on the right sleeves and wide; Wear a wide pleated skirt, all over the floor, wide-mouth pants and no embroidered shoes.
The costumes of the Qing Dynasty combined the styles of Han and Manchu, including Manchu gowns, turtlenecks, wide sleeves and knee-length gowns, China hairstyles, long skirts, embroidered shoes, and sometimes long coats, which are the legacy of the Ming Dynasty. Some coats have a sleeveless top with a high collar and right shoulder. Collars, lapels and skirts are also decorated with wide edges, and they are wearing wide trousers and pointed embroidered shoes. These are typical dressing styles in Qing Dynasty.
9. Modern clothing (the transformation of the west wind to the east)-clothing after the Revolution of 1911
Since Qianlong, western goods have been imported into China, and foreign manufacturing and packaging materials have greatly attracted domestic women, so there have been obvious changes in clothing and furniture, forming an atmosphere of advocating "new style" and "western style".
After the Revolution of 1911, the form of service changed greatly, and the official uniforms and high hats of the Qing Dynasty were eliminated. The most prominent thing is to cut the braid. At that time, "cutting" and "staying" have become the watershed between innovation and conservatism. The pioneers of braiding are city officials and intellectuals, but it is still not easy to accept in remote villages. At that time, although the flag-bearer costume disappeared, cheongsam still existed, and the "blue cloth coat" among female students was the dominant style, which became increasingly popular.
Due to the appearance of movies, movie stars have become increasingly prominent figures, Shanghai has become the base camp of women's wear in China, and Guangdong and Hong Kong clothing has become a branch of Shanghai-style clothing. In the early years of the Republic of China, women's lives changed. Influenced by foreign ideas, modern women living in metropolises go out of the boudoir and rush to the society to join the film industry, commerce, handicrafts, teachers, dancers and even officials. Because of the requirements of this kind of occupation, changing clothes has become an inevitable thing.
Due to the frequent communication between the city and the outside world, the styles and materials of clothing change rapidly, but in remote mountainous areas and rural areas, the difference is almost 150 years. For example, when women in Shanghai have begun to perm their hair and wear high heels, women in Sanhe County, Hebei Province are still wearing crowns three or four hundred years ago with a pair of "three-inch golden lotus" at their feet; When the aristocratic women in Beiping were already wearing close-fitting cheongsam, Gansu also had big sleeves that were popular in Shanghai thirty years ago. In the first year of the Republic of China, the government stipulated the shape of men's and women's dresses, with men having big dresses and women having uniforms. There are two kinds of big dresses: day dresses and evening dresses, both with black underwear and bow ties. There are two kinds of clothes: western and Chinese. Chinese clothes are robes and mandarin jackets. Women's dress is knee-length, with collar and double-breasted. The front and back of the skirt are mirror images, and both sides are tied. Urban women wear white gauze, silk dresses and white bouquets to get married and hold a "civilized" wedding. Peasant women still wear red coats and rosary beads and ride in red sedan chairs, maintaining an ancient custom. In the early years of the Republic of China, some areas in Fujian even continued to use the wedding clothes of the Ming Dynasty. Women wear corrugated hats or square towels, sharpay and Zhu Guan, while men wear top hats with red satin braids or red silk threads. This is a mismatch between men's and women's clothing, and it is also a greater distance from the city.
After the Northern Expedition, the government stipulated a new clothing system, and men adopted tunic suits and suits. These two kinds of clothes are western-style, which are commonly used by officials and intellectuals. In summer, they are white, and in other seasons, they are black or dark. A robe and jacket is still a uniform. Stand-up collar, three guarantees and seven buckles are mainly uniforms of colleges and universities. It is also common to use robes, vests and vests. In addition, wearing shirts, trousers or skirts (long skirts or short skirts) is a common clothing for men and women in rural areas. During this period, women's clothing changed greatly, and some of them kept Qing underwear; There are jackets and skirts that imitate western styles; In school, most female students are big cardigans, round bottoms, elbow sleeves and black silk skirts. Cheongsam is still the main dress of women in society, and it became popular again after 20 years of the Republic of China. The general trend of new clothes can be divided into two types, one is the arc-shaped long cheongsam with various plain colors or printed fabrics, which is characterized by adding inserts, patchwork or vests and scarves at the edge of the dress, and the other is the dress with a separate top and skirt.
In 1930s and 1940s, due to the entry of foreign goods and the infiltration of western life customs, women in big cities in China frequented communication places, which changed the social atmosphere, especially the fitted clothes. The dress is more fashionable and romantic, with glasses, watches and umbrellas in hand. Modern European and Japanese fashions have influenced women in China from short skirts, underwear and colors, and more and more people are imitating them. There are even simple clothes that imitate the United States. Sports-loving ladies wear red pleated skirts with silver bells and replace old-fashioned Chinese corsets with bras. In addition, "the dress that the Soviet Union called" Blagi "in the 1950s" is also common. Tracing back to the source, the traditional dress style in ancient China was a coat and a skirt, but it was more simplified and easier to move when it was introduced from the west again. From the 1920s to the 1940s after the Republic of China, fur clothes were still popular in rich people's homes. Wool-proof coats have been expensive clothes since ancient times. The "end cap" in Qing dynasty is also a kind of double-breasted coat with anti-wool, but the difference is that it is not lapel. Cloak is a common clothing style when going out. It was chic and elegant, and it was very popular among men, women and children in the upper class at that time. Although there are only a few types of the above-mentioned clothes, due to China's large population, vast territory and great regional differences, clothes in many areas can be selected and varied from several types of clothes by using the differences in color, decoration and raw materials.
Leather shoes, bags and umbrellas are all brought in by Japanese "Oriental women". This kind of dress appeared in Guangzhou at the end of Guangxu, and was called "free women's dress", which showed their open mind and behavior. In the early years of the Republic of China, some people began to "get married in a civilized way", do "civilized undertakings" and set up "small families". The modern clothes they wear are called "civilized clothes". The influence of western clothing on China was mainly in the period after World War II. Many female students in China seek spouses in famous cities in Europe and America, so they bring oriental decorative arts to the west, and also bring European costumes, ornaments and cosmetics back to China. These women naturally become promoters and consumers of foreign goods.
The rise of fashion has also promoted the development of children's wear, forcing the narrow cheongsam and short coat that are not conducive to children's physical development to be replaced by new children's wear that is suitable for physical development.