Review and arrangement of China's clothing history
1. Collar-wearing shirt: Fold a dress equivalent to two body lengths, dig a round hole or cut a hole in the middle, and stick your head out after putting it on. The front and back pieces are tied together to form a collared shirt.
2. Service: an official who is responsible for the implementation of the service system and arranges the emperor to wear it.
3. Internal uniform: the official in charge of the Queen's dress at the ceremony.
4. Coronation clothes: including coronation clothes, mystery clothes, belts, front knee pads and mountaineering clothes. Xuan Yi Xun Shang (Xuan: black; Crimson) symbolizes the unknown sky above, the twilight land below, and then it is tattooed.
5. Chapter 12 Decoration: (upper painting and lower embroidery, upper six chapters and lower six chapters) Embroider the sun, moon and stars and take photos of them; Embroidered mountain shape, take stability; Embroidered dragon modeling takes its strain; Embroidered insects (female birds) take its beauty; Embroider Zong Yi and take his loyalty and filial piety; Draw algae to get clean; Embroidered fire takes its light; Embroidered pink rice (white rice) takes its nourishment; Embroider the shape of an axe to make a decision; Embroidered Nuo (two animals are opposite in shape) is different from each other.
6. Knee pads: the waist is tied with a belt and worn under the belt to cover the knees. The form was originally to cover the abdomen and reproductive parts, and then gradually became a part of the dress, and then it was purely to safeguard the dignity of the nobility. It is called "Fu" at coronation and "Fu" or "Fu" at sacrifice. Wei Bi changed into other clothes.
7. A hundred schools of thought contend, which leads to different customs of national costumes:
Confucianism advocates "charter civil and military", "meet with courtesy" and "gentle and sincere"
Taoism puts forward "wearing brown Huai Yu" and "being willing to eat and being beautiful".
Mohism advocates "frugality" and "practicality" without excessive luxury. "Food must always be full and then seek beauty, clothes must always be warm and then seek beauty, and living in peace and then seek happiness."
Xun Kuang: Emphasis is placed on "differences in crown clothing, products and carvings".
Legalist Han Feizi, while denying the destiny, advocated that clothing should "advocate nature and oppose decoration"
8. Deep clothing: The most representative clothing styles prevailed in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, especially in the Warring States Period. "Continue to hook the edge", do not split, add a long skirt to form a triangle at the back, and tie it with a ribbon. Cut it up and down, and then sew the waist into a whole, so that the upper body fits and the lower skirt is wide, which can be worn by both men and women for a period of time until the ankle or the ground.
9. Pre-Qin costumes are of great significance, which laid the foundation for the basic modeling of China costumes, such as upper and lower dresses, and revealed the national traditional cultural consciousness of China, whose patterns are full of meanings (Chapter 12) and colors are symbolic (Xuanyi Xunshang).
10. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, robes were the most important thing for men. Most of the styles are big sleeves, and those with slightly narrowed cuffs are called shifting sleeves, while those with full sleeves are called dressing. Therefore, the wide sleeves are often exaggerated as "wearing a shade cover", and the neckline and cuffs are embroidered with checkered patterns. The neckline is oblique and the skirt is very low. The neckline is exposed to underwear, and the hem of the robe is decorated with flowers, or tied in a row or cut into crescent shapes, which are divided into curves according to the shape of the hem.
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12. There are many styles of crowns in Qin and Han Dynasties:
Crown: "flat crown"
Long crown: "Gao Zuguan" and "Liu" are mostly used by eunuchs and waiters.
Military attache: a military commander
Law crown: a sword crown (sacred sheep) worn by law enforcement officers.
Guan Liang: "Entering the Holy Crown" belongs to civil servants.
13. Officials in the Han Dynasty wear crowns, and the crowns must be lined with stains, which vary according to grades or positions. A civil servant's promotion crown should be accompanied by a letter of introduction, and a military attache's martial arts crown should be accompanied by a towel.
14.: As a kind of hair towel, it can be worn in Qin and Han dynasties regardless of rank. The wearer can wear it under the crown, while ordinary people can wear it alone. It is shaped like a hat, the flat top is called "flat towel" and the roof shape is called "intermediary"
15. Women's dress: Women's dress, similar to a deep dress, but the bottom is surrounded by an arc turntable, forming two sharp corners.
16. Yan Qun: Yan is a kind of short clothes, which is waist long and matches the lower body. This is another shape that is different from the top and bottom of the deep clothes, that is, the top and bottom skirts.
17. At the end of the Warring States Period, Zou Yan, a philosopher and a representative of Yin and Yang, founded the theory of five virtues, and linked it with social and historical changes and the rise and fall of dynasties. Qin destroyed Han, and virtue became soil, so yellow became a high-grade dress color.
18. Men's wear in Wei and Jin Dynasties was dominated by gowns (gowns were removed, while gowns were wide-sleeved, with single and double styles, and white was preferred).
Commendation belt became the main clothing style in this period, especially for literati.
19. Bi: A formal scarf, a kind of women's clothing that started in the Jin Dynasty and became popular in later generations, hangs over the neck and shoulders, naturally hangs down, and then hands in the collar.
20. For a long time in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, pants pleats and crotch were the most typical costumes of northern nationalities.
Trouser pleat: It is a kind of clothing style with trousers under the top, called trouser pleat suit, with double-breasted or left-sided split, and a belt at the waist, which is convenient and neat, revealing a rough and fierce atmosphere.
Tie pants: cut the brocade belt into three feet and tie it tightly under the knee of the trouser leg for action.
Crouching: one for the back and one for the chest. It is sleeveless and collarless. At first, it seems to be two pieces, which can be worn by both men and women under the armpits and shoulders. Later, it was used in military uniforms, and it was replaced by armor leaves, which were placed outside the lining robes. This kind of clothing has been used ever since. The south is called vest, and the north is called vest or vest. There are also differences between single, clip, leather, coat and cotton, which can be worn inside or outside clothes. The outside is a little longer and the inside is a little shorter.
2 1. Wotou: It is the most common first dress for men in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. At first, it was wrapped in a handkerchief, which was relatively low. Later, a towel was added under the hoe to ensure the fixed shape of the hoe. At first, the feet droop naturally like a belt, reaching the collar or shoulders, and then gradually become shorter, bend upward, and knot after insertion, all of which are called soft-footed hoes. Shantou foot after the mid-Tang dynasty is round and wide, like hard wings and slightly upturned, with silk thread in the middle to make it elastic to the right, which is called hard foot.
22. The image of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty for more than 300 years can be mainly divided into three kinds of clothes: group clothes, men's clothes and Hu clothes.
23. Half arm and silk:
Half arm is similar to today's short-sleeved shirt, because its sleeve length is between crotch and clothes, so it is called half arm.
Silk weaving: evolved from a narrow scorpion, and then gradually became a ribbon, draped over the arm and dancing around.
24. Women wearing men's clothing, that is, imitating men's clothing, has become a major feature of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty.
25. Sweating: Men's uniforms in Song Dynasty were mainly shirt cloth. That is, a sleeveless gown with a round neck or stand collar on it and a horizontal reed on the bottom to show the old system from top to bottom. Generally, white fine cloth is used, and a belt is tied around the waist. Some people who don't have enough cross braces are called straight or straight. Comfortable and light to wear at home, it can be widely used for officials or junior officials who live in Yanju and retire at home.
26. The style of court clothes of officials in the Song Dynasty basically followed the system of Han and Tang Dynasties, except for wearing a square heart and bending the collar around the neck.
27. During the Song Dynasty, the working people wore all kinds of clothes, but most of them were short coats, tight legs, tied shoes and brown cloth to facilitate their work. All walks of life in industry and commerce have specific clothing styles, which are called various work clothes.
28. Women's wear in Song Dynasty consists of hair clasp, coat, blouse, back, half arm, vest, tube top, Chinese-style chest covering, skirt and trousers. Among them, the back is the most distinctive, which was worn by both men and women in the Song Dynasty, especially in women's clothing.
Back: Straight collar is the main feature, the front is not pressed, the sleeves are wide or narrow, the length of clothes is knee-length, and the skirt is ankle-length, with different lengths. In addition, there are long slits under the left and right armpits, which seem to have the influence of Liao clothes and can't be opened. Dress comfortably and elegantly.
Vest: sleeveless, that is, crotch, straight collar and double-breasted (Difference: Half arm and sleeve length can be used as back; The sleeves of the vest have been removed. ) It's different from some hips and shoulders.
29. The official uniforms in Shanghai in the Ming Dynasty were patched to distinguish grades, which seems to have originated from the beginning of Wu Zetian's grading of official uniforms. In the Ming Dynasty, the tonic was marked by animals, and civil servants embroidered birds, military officers embroidered animals, and robe color patterns also had their own regulations. A robe with a right collar and a sleeve width of three feet, with patches, a black hat and soapy boots, became a typical official costume of the Ming Dynasty.
30. Yipin: Wen Xianhe; Martial lion; Crimson; Large flowers are 5 inches in diameter.
Second, the scarlet floret of golden pheasant and lion is 3 inches in diameter.
Triple product: peacock tiger's scarlet scattered flowers, no branches and leaves, 2 inches in diameter.
Four products: the scarlet flower diameter of Yunyan Leopard is 1.5 inch.
Five products: the flower diameter of the small blue flower of the silver pheasant bear is 1.5 inch.
Six products: the diameter of the small blue flower of the egret is 1.5 inch.
Seven products:? Mark the diameter of small blue flower 1.5 inch.
Eight products: oriole rhinoceros is green and flowerless.
Do: quail hippocampus green
Miscellaneous duties: practice finches
Judge: Embarrassed.
3 1. Gaby: This is a Mongolian clothing style, and women of northern nomadic people are good at embroidering gold on the outside of their coats. Later, it spread to the Central Plains, and Han women also wore it more. In the middle of Ming dynasty, it was more fashionable than armor. The style is sleeveless, and it is also a double-breasted vest, which is longer than the vest of later generations, and is generally a skirt length.
32. Paddy field clothes: The typical dress of women's wear in Ming Dynasty, that is, the patchwork of various colors of fabrics, is an artistic masterpiece in the hands of folk women, and it can still be seen today, that is, "hundred clothes"
33. "Ten Shun and Ten Inverse" in Qing Dynasty:
Men do not follow women, life does not follow death, yang does not follow yin, officials do not follow officials, old people do not follow young people, Confucianism does not follow Buddhism, prostitutes do not follow women, officials do not follow marriage, national titles do not follow official titles, and service taxes do not follow language.
34. In the Qing Dynasty, men mainly wore robes, tops, shirts and trousers, and all of them took off the big sleeves and narrow sleeves of tops, and the skirts were tied with buttons instead of ribbons commonly used by Han people. The neckline has been changed a lot, but there is no collar and a collar has been added.
35. The official clothes in the official clothes are only worn by the emperor. Embroidered robes are the most expensive clothes worn by ordinary officials, also known as "flowered clothes", which are special clothes worn by officials and their maids. The grades are distinguished by the number of pythons and the number of claws of pythons.
First to third: Embroidering five claws and nine pythons.
Four to six products: embroidered four claws and eight pythons
Seven products to nine products: embroidered four claws and five pythons
36. Hanging: A short coat with sleeves covering only the elbows, commonly known as a "jacket".
Vest: sleeveless short coat, also known as "vest" or "vest", which can be worn by both men and women. In the early Qing dynasty, I wore it inside, and in the late Qing dynasty, I wore it outside. Points: pipa; Broad-minded; In a word.
Collar: Because clean clothes generally don't have a collar, it is necessary to add a hard collar to wear formal clothes, which is called "collar", because it looks like a cow's tongue, commonly known as "cow's tongue", with cloth or satin at the bottom, split in the middle and tied with buttons.
Collar: around the neck and over the shoulders. It is water chestnut-shaped, embroidered with patterns, and is used for court official clothes. Sable or stone blue fabric is used in winter.
The first dress: a warm hat (August) and a cool hat (March). Warm hats are round, with an upturned brim, mostly leather and black. The top is decorated with a red hat, and the top is made of various materials, such as red, sapphire, coral, lapis lazuli, water gold, plain gold and plain silver.
Cool hat: the big hat looks like a cone and has no eaves. Woven with jade grass, rattan silk and bamboo silk, with white, lake blue or yellow silk as the surface and red yarn as the lining. Blue copper ore is woven with gold. The hat stand is also decorated with a red hat, and the beading is like a warm hat.
Zhu Chao: This is a symbol of the rank of senior officials. It's made of amber, beeswax, ivory, Phoebe bournei and other materials. There are 108 * * pearls, and there is a big pearl every 27 pearls. * * * is divided into four sections, symbolizing the four seasons of the year, with three strings of small pearls beside it, symbolizing the middle, upper and lower 30 days of a month. There are 30 pearls in each string.
Zhu Chao: a symbol of high rank. All literate, armed and above are equipped with Zhu Chao. Take amber, beeswax, ivory, Qin 'an and other materials as examples. There are 108 pieces with three strings of beads, two strings of male beads on the left and two strings of female beads on the right. In addition, there are slightly larger beads hanging on the back, which are called "shadow clouds", a string of officials, three strings of maids and a string of auspicious signs. The lines that run through the beads are bright yellow for the emperor and gold or blue-green for the next emperor.
37. Cloud shoulders: At that time, decorations were widely used, and the form was satisfactory, and they were put on the shoulders. Can be used as a dress, father and daughter salute in the early Qing Dynasty or as a decoration when they get married. By the end of Guangxu, Jiangnan women hung their shoulders with a low bun, which was used by women.
38. A major feature of women's dress decoration in Qing Dynasty. Embroidery and piping lace are usually applied to collars, sleeves, foreskirts, hems, slits and trouser legs.
39. There are different kinds of shoes: a flag girl has a wooden sole with a height of one or two inches or four or five inches. The high heel is installed in the center of the sole, the flowerpot is the "flowerpot bottom" and the horseshoe is the "horseshoe bottom". In fact, it reflects the clan style. Women in China bound their feet, wore wooden-soled bow shoes, and the slopes were embroidered with jewels. Southern women wear clogs, and prostitutes like to carve on their buttocks to store spices or hang golden bells on them.
40. Chinese tunic suit: a domestic costume based on the reform of students' clothing. The original style was nine buttons and a big pocket. Later, according to the meaning of Zhouyi and Zhouli Ji, for example, according to the four dimensions of the country (etiquette, righteousness and shame), the front lines of four pockets were determined; According to the separation of three powers (administration, legislation, justice, examination and supervision) that distinguishes the Kuomintang from western countries, five fronts are established; According to the Three People's Principles (nationality, civil rights and people's livelihood), cuffs must be three buttons. And add China's traditional consciousness to the basic style of the suit.
Review of western clothing history
1. What kinds of theories are there about the motivation of human dress?
Protection, shame, amulets and decorations.
2. Briefly describe the clothing characteristics of ancient Egypt.
A composition is very simple and there are few kinds. From the essence of modeling, it can be summarized into two forms, namely, there are no folds and there are folds. B beauty is composed of two phenomena: relatively fixed style and changeable surface decoration. As a supplement to simple modeling, ancient Egypt exhausted all kinds of decorative means. C the main material is linen fabric, and all grades of clothes are linen fabric.
3. What kinds of men's and women's clothes were there in ancient Egypt?
Men's wear: A rope (Rigachua) B waist (Luo Yinkros) C tube (Junik) D through head (Kalasiris) E robe (Rob) F shawl (Shore) Women's wear and men's wear are basically the same in shape, but women's wear in Junik and Shore is more diverse than men's wear and richer in color patterns and decoration.
4. What were the main materials of ancient West Asia?
Wool fabric (brought by Yoshiko Yura Colt and wool in the history of civilization)
5. Briefly describe the dressing methods of Dorian Heaton and Ionia Heaton?
A: Dorian Heaton: First of all, one long side of the rectangle is folded outward by an amount equal to the length from the neck to the waistline. Then fold the two short sides together, wrap the body in the folded cloth, lift the cloth from the back at the left and right shoulders, and fix it at the front with a pin of about 10cm. Excess cloth naturally hangs on the body, forming a beautiful sense of hanging. In order to emphasize the beauty of pleats and facilitate sports, the belt is tied, and the cloth is lifted up when it is tied, so that the cloth forms a bulging edge at the waist.
B: Heaton, Ionia: Two short sides are folded in half, one hand is extended to leave a side seam, and the rest are sewn into a tube. Secure from shoulder to arm with safety pins (about 8- 12). In order to facilitate movement, the belt is tied, and the clothing effect is different.
6. Take Toga as an example to illustrate the social function of ancient Roman costumes.
Toga is the most representative costume in Rome, which embodies a kind of dignity and pays attention to the symbolic significance of clothing. It is the identity card of a Roman male citizen. As a symbol of Rome, it is one of the things that the Romans boast to the world. However, with the decline of Rome, this kind of large-scale clothing expanded horizontally after repeated wrapping, giving people a feeling of being heavy and cumbersome, which was inconsistent with the situation at that time, so it gradually became smaller and formed a belt, and its changes could show the whole process of the rise and fall of the Roman Empire.
2. Changes in various periods, both men and women wore them in the King's period, and became men's clothes in the * * * and the times. In the imperial period, it rose to a low-grade costume, and its shape became extremely huge. It needs the help of others to wear, so it has become a special dress for powerful people. When the empire declined, Toga became smaller, then became a long strip and disappeared in the 7th-8th century.
7. Luo Yin Cross: Ancient Egyptian men's clothes were mainly wrapped with a piece of white linen around their waist. Cross "【 waist cloth, waist cloth. In French, it's called "divine body". There are many forms and types, some are wrapped and tied with belts, some are tied with crotch, and some are hung on the shoulders with belts.
8. Zunik: Except slaves, women usually wear Zunik. Chunik is a kind of tubular tights from chest to ankle, which has many forms. It's the formal dress of ancient Egyptian women.
Kalasiris: With the introduction of Kalasiris from West Asia during the New Kingdom period, women in ancient Egypt used this kind of dress as a dress in religious ceremonies, just in a slightly different way from men.
7. Kavuna Keyes
8. Dorian Heaton: The material is a rectangular white wool fabric, which is twice as long as the distance between the elbows after the arm is straightened, about 6 feet (contract 183 cm), and the short side is the length from the neck to the ankle plus the length from the neck to the waist line (this length is called "Abotaigema"). Short-sleeved tunic, all-round material, knee-length.
10. Ionian Heaton: Ionian Heaton is also a rectangular piece of cloth, which looks like a knee-length short-sleeved tunic. The material is thin linen fabric, wrinkled fabric or fabric processed into pleats (straight pleats formed by ironing). The color is mainly white, and there are green, yellow, gold, brown and other colors. Yellow is mostly used by women. The long side is equal to twice the distance between the wrists when the hands are horizontally extended, and the short side is the distance from the neck to the ankle. Coupled with the amount of lifting when wearing a belt, the upper body does not fold outward, but the loose long skirt can be tied by the belt at will.
1 1. The difference between Dorian-style Heaton and Ionian-style Heaton is that the former is made of wool fabric, with thick and rough folds and simple and solemn male characteristics; There is Abbott Taigema back; Fix two points on the shoulder with a pin; Side seams are generally not stitched; Sleeveless ingredients. The latter is made of hemp fabric, thin and pleated, with feminine and elegant female characteristics; No hymns; Use safety pins to fix the shoulders to multiple places on both arms; Side seams must be stitched; Consists of sleeves. These two styles have been popular in Heaton, but in many places, young people prefer Dorian Heaton, while middle-aged people prefer Ionia Heaton.
1 1 simachun: It is a wrapped long coat worn by men and women in ancient Greece. Like Heaton, it is a rectangular woolen cloth, which is generally as wide as the length and three times as wide. The color is mainly white or white, as well as brown and black. If Heaton is underwear, then Sima Chun is a coat wrapped around Heaton. Ximachun has no fixed shape, and it can be divided into two kinds from the use: going out with lining and ordinary wearing without lining, and there are many sizes. The most common way to wear it is to put the cloth on the left shoulder first, so that the front part is as long as the ground, and then the back part bypasses the right armpit from behind, then bypasses the front and then returns to the left arm. The four corners of the material are decorated with small metal ornaments, which can be pulled up to cover the head against the wind and rain when going out and taken off when sleeping. This is a style deeply loved by Greek philosophers. Women in the upper class use a lot. They usually spread the cloth covering their left arms and shoulders and wrap their heads and hands. Himadon's dress status can be divided into the following categories: almost whole body; Most packages are fixed on one shoulder; A shoulder wrapped around the upper body; Wrap your shoulders and hang down.
12 Togatoga's shape category: Togatoga's shape is oval, its vertical length is three times of its body length, and its horizontal width is twice of its body length. It is the largest costume in the world and a symbol of rank. It is divided into different categories, indicating different positions and occupations: citizens are natural white with no decoration, upper members are made of silk with two wide crimson decorative ribbons, and senior officials, generals and emperors are made of purple fabrics embroidered with gold thread.
Junica: lingerie Junica is a kind of wide bag-like dress similar to a robe. It is T-stitched at the shoulders and armpits, with elbow-length sleeves, long sleeves and sleeveless ones. Junica is knee-high for men and ankle-high for women, with a belt around her waist. Qiu, a nobleman or official, also decorated the front and back with two purple stripes-"crab", indicating the size of the grade by its width.
13 Buryat Xianzi Xiao Si Bleda Mal Ti casla Show
Characteristics of clothing in Roman times
Men and women are the same type, and there are almost no other gender differences except that men wear pants. The basic varieties are underwear-Xian Zi, coat-Brio, cloak-Mante.
13 Kurt Shore Kokotar Dipulbowan
14 how is the gothic architectural style expressed in clothing?
Gothic clothing is influenced by Christian church architecture, which emphasizes the overall slender effect while strengthening and exaggerating the three-dimensional sense. The tall conical roof, long pointed shoes, and the sharp lower end of the skirt are serrated, which is exactly the same as the appearance of the Gothic spire.
15 What are the applications of Slaxiu in clothing?
(The main feature of German style is the decoration of Slaxiu), which means to slit, cut, horizontally, vertically and obliquely. It is not only used on the chest and sleeves of coats, but also on pants, shoes, gloves and hats in its heyday. The slits of the whole body are also patterned. (Lining and white underwear of different colors can be exposed at the crack, and both ends of the crack are also decorated with various gems and pearls. )
16 what are the characteristics of Byzantine clothing?
The early Byzantine clothing basically followed the style of the late Roman Empire, but with the development and popularization of Christian culture, its clothing gradually lost the simplicity and simplicity of ancient Roman clothing, and its modeling became rigid. Its characteristics are as follows: (1) The colors are gorgeous, tassels, piping and gem decorations are very common, and the focus of performance shifts to the texture, color and surface decoration of the materials, which is full of the characteristics of oriental culture.
(2) The emperor's clothes have a very strong religious flavor, and the clothes of ministers and attendants are also strictly regulated according to their status and responsibilities. Clothing has become a tool of "showing dignity, showing dignity".
17 why is the gothic period the intersection of ancient and modern clothes and things?
In the 2nd/kloc-0th century, influenced by architectural style, the garment cutting method made a new breakthrough: the new cutting method removed the redundant part of the difference between chest and waist from the front, back and side. From the sleeve root to the hem, several pieces of shuttlecock-like triangular cloth are added to the edge, and between these irregular triangular cloth, many diamond-shaped spaces are formed at the waist, which is the "province" of clothes now. This has formed a side that has never been seen before. It is precisely because of the formation of this side that the cutting method of clothes completely broke away from the coat-taking-off formed by the ancient plane two-dimensional space, and established the narrow clothing foundation formed by the modern three-dimensional space. Moreover, it was at this time that the western suit and the eastern suit completely parted ways in the form and concept of composition. In other words, no matter from the vertical (ancient to modern) or horizontal (east and west), the watershed of clothing composition is here.
18: Brief introduction to the characteristics of Renaissance costumes
The characteristics of the Italian period: the underwear is partially exposed from the gap of the coat, which is in contrast with the gorgeous brocade on the surface, further setting off the beauty of the cloth.
Men's Pulbowan: There are three remarkable characteristics of technology and clothing structure: first, quilting, using inverted needle method; The second is to open in front; Third, it changed the cutting method of medieval robes.
Split gown: the appearance seems to be connected up and down, with seams at the waist.
The characteristics of the German period: hollowed-out clothing, using fur as the decoration method of collar or hem.
Oral cutting, also known as mercenary infantry style, originally meant to cut, stab, cut, etc. Decorations sewn with knives and swords and extending to cuts, cracks, slits, or clothes.
The characteristics of the Spanish period: the pursuit of extremely peculiar modeling and exaggerated performance, superb sewing technology.
The popularity of wrinkled collar: closed wheel type, open vertical collar type and shawl type. Corset: whale corset, Buner corset. Support skirt: bell hoop support skirt, ring hoop support skirt
Sleeves can be divided into bubble sleeves, leg sleeves and shrew sleeves according to the shapes of fillers.
19 What's the difference between French Fachengale and Spanish Fachengale?
The skirt (1) is bell-shaped in Spanish style. Several circles of wheel bones made of whalebone are sewn on linen, sometimes made of rattan, palm or metal wire, and the diameter of wheel bones gradually increases from top to bottom. Wear it under the skirt, so that the skirt opens in a conical shape. (2) French style is something similar to a tire made of ponytail fabric, which is filled with filler and shaped with iron wire. When you wear it, tie it around your waist and cover it with a skirt, so that it protrudes horizontally from your waist and then hangs down naturally. (3) The British style covers the French style with a round cover. The inner ring of the round cover is connected with the skirt, and the edge of the outer ring is rounded with metal wire or whalebone, so that the skirt expands around and the outline is clearer when the skirt hangs down.
20 Basel Baroque Rococo Tartar
2 1 A Brief Introduction to the Characteristics of Men's Wear in Dutch Style Period
22 Abikile Robpani Elaf Krabat
23 Briefly describe the modeling characteristics of women's clothing in Rococo period.
Rococo costumes developed slender and gentle characteristics on the basis of baroque costumes, which made the costumes more feminine, so Rococo period was a female-centered artistic style. Moreover, the feminine characteristics in men's wear are becoming more and more prominent. By the middle of the18th century, rococo clothing reached its peak, women's clothes became sexier, skirts reappeared and became bigger and bigger, and the oval shape with horizontal width developed, with bare chest and beautiful shoulders. A large number of lace, lace, ribbons and artificial flowers are used to decorate women, which is called "walking garden". By the end of the term, the skirt disappeared, the skirt became soft and the hip pad replaced the skirt. The headdress tends to be tall and gorgeous, the wig is more exquisite, and the overall decoration is full of curve interest.
Compare the modeling characteristics of French Rob, Polish Rob and British Rob.
Briefly describe the modeling characteristics of Yufeng.
Emphasize high waist and high chest, long thin skirt, short bubble sleeve in the shape of melon skin and wide and low square neckline. Skirts are popular with two colors overlapping to form a layered feeling. Clothing surface is developing to decorative modeling. With the increase of skirt, pleats or other colors of cloth will increase the weight and expansion of skirt and make it plump.
26 Briefly describe the characteristics of women's wear in The Romantic Period.
The waistline gradually decreases from the high waist to the natural position, and the waist is narrowed by the waist. Extremely swollen sleeves, leading to drooping shoulders and exaggerated leg sleeves. After the skirt is unfolded, the skirt appears to be unfolded outward and truly forms an X-shape.
Briefly describe the characteristics of women's clothing in the new Rococo period.
In order to show the slender waist, a new skirt was born, called Klinolin, which means horse hair and hemp. 1850 at the end, whale bones, bird feathers, thin iron wires or rattan are used as wheel bones, which are connected by belts to form the skirt of the birdcage. It is transformed from a bell into a birdcage shape, and finally forms a pyramid shape, or an inclined or tilted abnormity, all of which have obvious traces of imitating rococo clothing. The hem is more than 9 meters in diameter.
28 Briefly describe the modeling characteristics of women's clothing in Basl period.
In the Basl period, women's dresses used corsets to hold out the chest at the front, flat the abdomen, and raised the rear buttocks with hip pads, and the outer skirts were popular in the form of mopping the floor. The surface of the clothes emphasizes the decorative effect, and the whole appearance is characterized by standing forward and leaning backward.
Briefly describe the characteristics of women's clothing in S-shaped period.
S-shaped style uses corsets to hold out the chest in front, flatten the abdomen, narrow the waist, and the back is close to the back, naturally showing full hips. From the waist to the hem, the skirt opens naturally like a trumpet, forming a trumpet-shaped wavy skirt. Viewed from the side, it looks like an "S" shape. When using leg of lamb sleeves, the upper half is in the shape of a big bubble or lantern, and the sleeves are tightened and narrowed from below the elbows.
Division of the 30 th century
The Middle Ages can be divided into "cultural dark period" from 5th to10th century, "Romanesque period" from12nd century and "Gothic period" from13rd to14th century.
First, the blending of costume culture, including the blending of different ethnic styles in Byzantine costumes, the great integration of northern and southern ethnic costumes brought about by the great migration of western European nationalities, and the great integration of eastern and western costume cultures brought about by the Crusade; Second, the spiritual implication of Christian culture permeated the development of costumes in various regions of the Middle Ages, and this religious concept had a far-reaching impact on western costumes in the future; Third, in the late Middle Ages, western costumes took a turning point. From ancient times to modern times, from east to west, from plane to three-dimensional, from the form of taking off the coat to the narrow form of clothing, the transformation was reflected in the Middle Ages.
3 1 Division of modern chronicles: Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo.
Similarity characteristics of clothing in the past century
33 characteristics of clothing in Spanish style period