Jin chai
Hairpin is an essential jewelry for Manchu women to comb all kinds of bun. Usually, Manchu women like to decorate their hair with big earlobes, small earlobes, beaded hairpins, sideburns hairpins, crested hairpins and faucet hairpins made of precious materials such as gold, silver, pearl jade, agate and coral. Although there are many kinds of hair clips, the choice should be based on everyone's conditions and identity. For example, before the People's Pass, Fujin in Nurhachi and Fujin and Gege in Baylor used Dongzhu as the best material for making hair accessories. After 200 years, it was gradually replaced by Hepu Pearl Nanzhu.
Bone hairpin
Compared with pearls, gold and jade are superior materials, such as gold-plated, silver-plated or copper, as well as precious stones, jadeite and coral ivory. They are made into various hairpin ornaments and decorated on the bun, which is much simpler than after entering the customs. After entering the customs, Manchu women, especially court women, paid more attention to hairpin ornaments because of the influence of Han women's headdresses. For example, in the 16th year of Qianlong (175 1), when Emperor Qianlong celebrated his mother's 60th birthday, only the names of all kinds of hair clips were jaw-dropping, for example, All goes well, Mei Caiying wins the hairpin, Jingfu sleeps in peace, and Riyongqin writes the hairpin. These hair clips are undoubtedly the top grade of materials and production.
Diancuizidi
Judging from the hairpin ornaments left by empresses in Qing Dynasty, there are two kinds of hairpin. One is a practical hairpin, which is mostly used to fix the bun and head shape. The other is a decorative hairpin, which is made of precious materials with exquisite patterns and is specially used to comb the bun and wear it in an obvious position. Many realistic palace paintings collected in the Forbidden City now depict queens wearing hairpins. From the picture, some of them put the hairpin in the middle of the bun, and some inserted it obliquely at the root of the bun. Empresses' heads are full of jewels, but their hairpins are the best. Therefore, in the Qing Dynasty, empresses and concubines were all made of jade jewelry, and their production techniques were also very particular. It is often the most precious to make a hairpin with a whole piece of jade, coral crystal or ivory. For example, the white jade in the Forbidden City in Beijing is made of a pure suet white jade, and the hairpin is the last stroke of the birth word. Similarly carved jade plate sausage hairpin and coral bat hairpin are excellent works of hairpin decoration. In addition, there are Jin Fu Qian Guan, Magpie Hairpin, Five Bats Shoushou Hairpin and so on. , with its exquisite carving and exquisite and eye-catching. There is also a kind of head hairpin inlaid with various pearls and gems on a gold base, which is mostly composed of a head and a pin, but it still has a sense of wealth and luxury. With the gradual widening of the hairstyle of the empress in Qing Dynasty, the modeling of hairpin ornaments has gradually developed to two extremes. One is that the hairpin head gradually becomes smaller, such as pimple needle, ear-digging spoon and old crow spoon. The other is that the hairpin ornaments are getting bigger and bigger, which are not only suitable for Manchu women to comb two heads and cover a large area, but also gradually evolve into headdresses, flat squares and other big jewelry.
Hairpins, as jewelry, are worn on the head, which not only beautifies the bun, but also symbolizes the auspicious words made of hairpins and the beautiful pursuit of expressing feelings and wishes. As far as the hairpin ornaments left by empresses in Qing dynasty are concerned, the diversity of forms and patterns is beyond the previous generation. A deformed bead "Boy Ping An" hairpin once exhibited in the Treasure Hall is a rare treasure. Hairpin is an exceptionally deformed pearl, about five centimeters long, and looks like a dancing urchin. On the left side of the deformed bead, a sapphire vase is decorated, and several thin red coral branches are inserted in the bottle mouth to set off the word "An". There is a A Jin Ruyi handle behind the urchin, which is connected with the Aquarius into a whole, and the head of Jinleisi Ganoderma lucidum is exposed on the right side of the urchin. Judging from the urchin decoration, it is a boy. When the whole wishful thinking is linked together, it is called "the boy is safe" or "the boy is happy and safe". The moral ethics of feudal society pays attention to the "three cardinal principles and five permanents", that is, the monarch is the minister's cardinal principle, the husband is the wife's cardinal principle and the father is the child's cardinal principle. The emperor's wives and concubines, of course, take the emperor as the key link and want to have more children for the royal family, so that the royal family can have a strong blood line and the imperial power can be passed down forever. The intention of this hairpin is self-evident. However, the facts are not so satisfactory. Twenty-four of the thirty-five sons of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty grew up, and the princes fought for power and profit, so that Emperor Kangxi died before he was seventy years old. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, two emperors, Tongzhi and Guangxu, had queens and concubines, but no children, which made their mother Cixi listen to politics twice and ruled China for half a century.
Cixi is also a person who loves beauty. She likes gorgeous clothes all her life, especially rubies, red corals, jade peony hairpin and butterfly hairpin. In the 11th year of Xianfeng, Yining died in chengde mountain resort. Cixi became a widow at the age of 27. According to Manchu custom, the wife should be her husband Dai Xiao, and she was released for 27 months. The hair clasp on your head should be made of uncut bone or pure silver. Cixi ordered the factory to produce a batch of headdresses such as silver gray jade and thymelaeaceae. In February of the first year of Tongzhi, this batch of plain clothes jewelry was sent to Cixi one after another. Cixi wears it painfully every day. After the release expires, all the jewels are put in the cold palace. Cixi put on her exquisite and luxurious headdress again, and this habit remained until her later years.
Cixi emerald hairpin
The queen wears hairpins seasonally. They wear golden hair clips in winter and spring. In the long summer, they put on gold hair pins and jade hair pins. Until beginning of winter became a food hairpin. In the late Qing Dynasty, Ms. Yu Deling, who worked as a female translator beside Cixi, recalled that April 24 of the lunar calendar 1903 was a long summer. On this day, everyone should put on a gold pin and a jade pin. This foot, Cixi gave Yu Deling's mother, sister and herself a jade hairpin. "The Queen Mother chose a beautiful hairpin for my mother, saying that all three queens had worn it, and two beautiful ones were given to our sisters, saying that these two were a pair, one was often worn by the Queen Mother, and the other was worn by herself when she was young." At the end of the Qing Dynasty, most of the empresses' hairpins were relics handed down by their ancestors, and all the empresses in the palace regarded them as treasures. People that Cixi likes can be rewarded at will, and there is no constraint. But Emperor Guangxu hated a Hosta so much that he would never forgive him until he died. After the failure of the Reform Movement of 1898 in the late Qing Dynasty, Cixi imprisoned Guangxu in Yingtai. One day, the Jade Dragon Queen went to see Guangxu, and Guangxu was very disgusted. Although he and Yulong are nominally husband and wife, they are not separated. Therefore, when Guangxu saw Yulong, he was so disgusted that he couldn't breathe evenly. Guangxu didn't want to see the arrival of Yulong, and even said, "Kneel down!" Yulong was very angry and pretended not to hear. Guangxu saw that she didn't leave, and his hands trembled with anger, trying to push her out. I didn't expect him to push too hard and hit the hairpin on Long Yufa's bun. Hosta fell to the ground and immediately shattered. This Hosta is a relic of the Qianlong period. It was given to Cixi, and she gave it to Yulong. As soon as Jiang Yu saw it, she cried and told Cixi about it. Cixi was furious and hated Guangxu even more. From then on, she sent people to closely monitor Guangxu, sent meals and cold soup, and treated Guangxu as a sinner. Political differences made the relationship between Cixi and Guangxu like strangers, and a hairpin became the fuse of their mother-child relationship, and Guangxu's early death became a historical necessity.
In the folk, generally speaking, the rich use jade and silver, and the poor use bones. Silver hair clips are also essential for ordinary people to marry their daughters. Women cherish it very much, because it is a more valuable thing to accompany them, some of which will never be lost or damaged. Most of the hairpins widely used by the people are bone, so people are always used to calling them "bone hairpins". Hairpins are usually three or four inches long, and there are some longer ones, but they are rare. The hair clip has a thin head and a round knot at the tail. The thin head is easy to insert into the bun, and the small protrusions at the tail can make the bun strong. There is also a flat hairpin with thick ends and thin middle, mostly made of silver and copper. The two sides of the flat hairpin are divided into two sides, the front is decorated with flowers and auspicious patterns, and the back is light-colored, and the overall shape is slightly curved. The flat hairpin has obvious decorative significance, and it shines when fixed on the hair. Hairpin is an indispensable ornament for many ethnic women to modify their hair. It is an effective product for fixing women's hair and hairdressing, which is the main reason why it has been used for thousands of years.
The headdress flower is jewelry developed from hairpin. It consists of a flower head and a pin. Because Manchu women's hair styles developed from soft-winged head to two fingers, then to shelf head, and finally produced big wings, the hair styles on their heads became wider and wider, so a headdress with a large coverage-Touhua was produced. Most headdresses are made of pearls and precious stones, so they need a stable support, that is, some corresponding changes have been made on the basis of hairpins. For example, a cross-shaped cross brace is welded at the top of the pin, and the cross-shaped cross is used as the main body of the headdress. Decorative flowers, branches and leaves, birds and animals, insects and butterflies, auspicious symbols and so on surround the main body. This mutual collocation not only makes the primary and secondary relationship of composition obvious, but also makes the headdress flower with treasures as raw materials share the load reasonably. When a Manchu woman combs her hair, she wears a big flower between her two heads, which is called a headdress. Some women will also choose two kinds of flowers with the same color and shape to be inserted at both ends of the two heads, commonly known as pressed hair flowers, also known as pressed temples.
Besides flags and hairpins, Manchu women generally like to decorate their hair with flowers. Wearing big flowers on the head has always been a traditional custom of Manchu. Pu Zhiyuan recorded in the Diary of Jehol that Manchu women are "full of wild flowers, regardless of age" and "over 50 years old" is still "full of flowers, full of golden flowers, a precious journey". "Even if you are nearly seventy years old, even if you are bald and shiny, you will still be full of flowers." In northern Liaoning, some Manchu women even put a small bottle full of clear water on their hair bun, and a few flowers were inserted in the bottle, which was full of vitality, reflecting their strong pursuit of beauty. In the early Qing Dynasty, the country was on the rise, and people's living consumption remained largely in the traditional mode. In order to satisfy the desire for beauty, Manchu women often wear seasonal flowers and a kind of "honeysuckle wisp" on their heads. In other words, the table is made of paper tires, and some are made of copper wire. They are packaged into all kinds of flowers, no more than two or three inches high, and the largest is nearly a foot, decorated with extremely delicate pearls and jade. In the early years of Shunzhi, the family members of Manchu military camp often used this honeysuckle as a decoration on the bun. With the establishment of politics in Qing Dynasty and the consolidation of state power, the headdress worn by Manchu women also appreciated. Although flowers can be seen everywhere, women prefer headdress flowers with precious texture. These women grow their hair to show off, not to be beautiful.