Young people of the new trend of thought like to follow the trend, and then expand to workers and servants. Moreover, because western clothing and materials entered the domestic market in large quantities, it directly affected the clothing reform at that time. Women's wear has also accepted the western concept of convenience and simplicity.
After the New Culture Movement, great changes have taken place in women's clothing, which quickly reached its climax. With the introduction of western clothing and the promotion of the media, women's clothing, which was already at the peak of change, has been further promoted. Women's enrollment in 1930s was a great revolution in their thoughts, and the direct result that affected their clothes was the appearance of unique student clothes. Female students' clothing can be divided into two categories: one is Chinese dress, and the other is western dress. Western-style clothes are often paired with short skirts or trousers, which are more common among international students and students of foreign-run missionary schools, and now they are not far from ordinary clothes. After the 1920s, the traditional form of women's clothing gradually faded, and the western exquisite patterns gradually replaced the mainstream clothing. Western-style fashion styles are different in spring and autumn, and the combination of Chinese and western styles is also very popular.
From the end of 19 to the beginning of the 20th century, China was forced to open its doors. While western-style clothing for men and women is widely accepted by the public, traditional national clothing has also rushed out of a new way in the transformation, drawing on the elements of suits and integrating national and times characteristics.
More and more western designers are also looking for inspiration from China's clothing elements. The so-called "China element" refers to the design elements with typical national characteristics of China, including: China's silk, brocade, linen, blue printed cotton and other fabrics; Cheongsam, Chinese tunic suit, full belly, stand collar, inclined lapel, double lapel, split and other styles; Decorative patterns such as group flowers, peony flowers, bound flowers, dragons and phoenixes, Chinese characters, etc.; Colorful national colors such as big red, big green, bright yellow and blue; China crafts such as inlay, inlay, rolling, winding and embroidery. Throughout the excellent fashion design works, they all pay attention to the ingenious combination of traditional culture and fashion. As the essence of art and culture, China element plays a very unique role in modern fashion design and is an important means to express individual beauty. On the one hand, it promoted the inheritance and innovation of China traditional clothing elements, and pushed China traditional clothing to the world clothing industry.
Among many China elements, the application of traditional fabrics, traditional colors, traditional patterns and traditional crafts can best reflect the characteristics of China:
First of all, fabric is the material basis of clothing, which directly determines the style and style of clothing design. With the rapid development of textile technology, all kinds of new fabrics have brought unlimited imagination to modern clothing design. However, the unique style of traditional fabrics still maintains its irreplaceable charm. Silk, brocade, linen and blue calico all have strong China characteristics and play an important role in the stage of modern fashion design. Silk is famous for its softness, exquisiteness, elegance and magnificence, and women's dresses made of silk can better reflect women's charm and gentleness. In recent years, because many international fashion designers use silk fabrics to design unique clothes on the world fashion stage, the charm of silk shines brilliantly. In addition, modern clothing with strong decorative effect is made by using the characteristics of strong layering, strong color and strong impact of brocade and brocade patterns.
Secondly, in the international fashion stage at that time, when it comes to red, people will think of China, especially red and green are widely used in traditional costumes in China. As a unique color of the royal family, yellow gives people a solemn, dignified and sacred feeling in the traditional costume culture of China. It should be said that yellow is widely used in all kinds of clothing design because of its unique brightness and gorgeous, giving people a luxurious and elegant temperament and feeling.
Furthermore, Chinese traditional patterns often become the essence of modern fashion design. The most representative clothing patterns in China are tuanhua, peony, boughs, dragons and phoenixes, and Chinese characters. The dragon and phoenix figure is a unique design of the Zeng royal family in China feudal society, with strong totem traces, but it has been skillfully used in folk costume decoration. In modern fashion design, these traditional patterns have been improved, and they are widely used in various fashion designs that show China characteristics. Designers use embroidery, printing and dyeing, hand-drawing, sticking embroidery, knitting and other different methods to decorate these patterns on the decoration of various clothes and accessories. Through various typical patterns and shapes, it is dotted in different parts of the clothing, which makes the clothing not only contain the rich charm of China traditional culture, but also have a strong modern aesthetic feeling.
Furthermore, the wonderful embellishment of China's traditional crafts in modern clothing design, China's traditional clothing adopts straight cutting, emphasizing plane decoration, and the decoration means include traditional crafts such as inlay, inlay, rolling, rolling and embroidery. Decorating the surface space of clothing with plane embroidery is a common practice in China's clothing design. In particular, exquisite embroidery technology and silk fabrics make the clothing full of oriental charm. In recent years, with the popularity of Tang costumes again, several techniques such as inlay, inlay, rolling, plate and embroidery have been widely used in modern clothing design and become fashion embellishments of fashion.
Finally, the flexible application of China's traditional style in modern fashion design: Although China's traditional clothing has developed and changed with the changes of the times, it still belongs to two-dimensional plane cutting. Clothing pays attention to "seamless", reducing seams as much as possible, and doing seamless treatment is appropriate. In this way, its spiritual temperament will have elegant and smart beauty. It does not emphasize the morphological characteristics of the human body, but uses styles, colors and decorations to distinguish between men's and women's clothing. Clothing presents a natural, gentle, lingering and continuous state, which will achieve the harmonious integration of man and nature. In the west, designers actively draw nutrients from the traditional costumes of all nationalities in the world and turn them into eternal fashion art. It is Chinese haute couture that pours out a quiet temperament and becomes a beautiful scenery that people stop to enjoy in this colorful world, and with its heavy sense of history and fresh sense of fashion, it has swept the ever-changing fashion stage. All this benefits from the diversity of design techniques of top international brands and their extremely flexible application, and there is no trace of copying them mechanically.
There are two main design methods to integrate China's traditional clothing elements into the world's clothing industry: one is the integration of modern fashion contours and China's clothing elements; Second, the use of China elements is not China, that is, "China appearance" and "non-China design".
First of all, the modern fashion silhouette and China clothing elements are mixed.
When foreign designers absorb China elements, they often make local articles on the basis of modern fashion outline, in order to seek innovation and breakthrough, so as to realize the perfect combination of modern design and traditional national elements. The most commonly used design technique is to use China craft materials and pattern colors, or to decorate or break the basic fixed style. In the application of craft materials, brocade and embroidery with China characteristics are the most widely used. Vivid embroidery is common, using hollow or three-dimensional Chinese embroidery to show the most enchanting gesture of flowers and make the fabric full of three-dimensional sense. In terms of design color, Western designers not only simply copied the dragon patterns and flower patterns in the past, but also further explored paintings with more China humanistic flavor, such as China's ink painting.
Secondly, "China appearance" rather than "China design"
When we talk about the styles and shapes of China elements, we will naturally think of China's cheongsam, jacket, vest and so on. Designers in China may add buckles, decorative patterns, embroideries, etc. according to fixed thinking patterns, while foreign designers just take these styles and shapes as the constituent elements of clothing, integrate modern life concepts into their designs, and reinterpret traditional styles and shapes. They often break the fixed pattern of China's traditional costumes intentionally or unintentionally through another mode of thinking by virtue of cultural background differences. In addition, in the process of creation, they always run through the concept of modern life and integrate elements of China traditional culture into the concept of modern life, which is mainly manifested in the use of post-modern deconstruction techniques, taking the typical styles, lines and colors of the Chinese nation as symbols and vocabulary, combining traditional elements through unconventional methods and integrating them into their own designs, thus forming a new beauty of combining ancient and modern Chinese and western crafts with modern technology.
While international fashion masters are scrambling to express their understanding of oriental style through their latest masterpieces, we in China can't be indifferent to this. Compared with people from other countries, we have more original traditional oriental clothes to choose from. Cheongsam, Tang suit and household clothes are all carrying out their clothing reform revolution.
1, cheongsam has a unique charm.
Speaking of China traditional costumes, I believe many people will see the ladies in old Shanghai wearing cheongsam. A fitted cheongsam can always perfectly show the oriental charm of Miss China. As Zhang Ailing described, a woman wearing cheongsam is "as charming as gardenia forever". At first, cheongsam was not the style that we are familiar with now, which is "narrow sleeves and high collar close to the body". Cheongsam, which originated from women's clothing in Qing Dynasty, is a style of "straight tube with long sleeves and hard collar". Only with the passage of time, the cheongsam style that can highlight the female body curve has been recognized by modern people. Today's cheongsam incorporates more fashion elements. The original silk is replaced by breathable silk on the fabric, and the styles are also diversified: the hem is not open, and it is replaced by a fashionable mini trumpet skirt, the straight collar is replaced by a small basin collar, and the right hand skirt is replaced by a small middle collar, plus three buckles, which is charming and dignified. Cheongsam can also be worn alone. Suit-style cheongsam is divided into two parts, elegant and avant-garde, with a wide variety of prints and colors.
2. Chinese pajamas are soft and beautiful *
China household clothes, which are characterized by silk and embroidery techniques, have now become a major category of clothing in China. Pajamas, nightgowns and nightgowns made of elegant silk and thick brocade are of high quality, comfortable to wear and warm.
It is said that the beautiful patterns on pajamas or nightgowns embroidered with flowers and traditional dragon and phoenix patterns are handmade by skilled embroidery masters for several days, with smooth feel and vivid patterns. Such silk household clothes can only be kept in the best condition in China by hand washing.
3, improve the cheongsam, see fashion in the classics.
Traditional cheongsam and Tang suit in China require a high figure, and the figure proportion will seriously affect the overall wearing effect. So at present, many Chinese-style clothes have been improved more or less. On the basis of retaining the original traditional features of China, some improved Chinese dresses have incorporated European tailoring and design, making them more comfortable and convenient for people to wear.
Older people have a special preference for authentic Hanfu, but many young people can't fully accept formal styles such as cheongsam and Tang suit. As a result, those clothes that combine western-style tailoring and oriental characteristics find a balance between tradition and modernity, and make a modern interpretation of China's traditional costumes. For example, in the past, Chinese clothing did not pay much attention to the design of shoulders, but now it has added shoulder pads to increase the three-dimensional sense of clothing. The lower skirt of some improved cheongsam has also greatly reduced the height, and the style that only exposes the calf is very convenient to wear. Women in pear shape, in particular, try their best to develop their strengths and avoid weaknesses in their lower bodies, instead of emphasizing the design of self-cultivation, and adopt the loose hem style of western-style skirts, which is both classical and can cover up the defects. The most special thing is to add some traditional China crafts such as piping, embroidery and buttons to some seemingly modern clothes, so that the clothes immediately have a quaint China charm.
4. See the charm in the tradition of Tang costume.
Printed cloth, small stand-up collar and middle buckle are typical patterns of Tang suit. This pattern of Tang suit not only inherits the styles and fabrics with rich cultural charm of China traditional clothes, but also absorbs some characteristics of three-dimensional tailoring of western-style clothes. In terms of color, it is mainly bright crimson, burgundy, sapphire blue and brown, and there are also some special colors like bright yellow and emerald green. The pattern of the fabric is also dominated by China's distinctive Rotarian flowers, or figures such as Fu Lushou.
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