The influence of clothing in Ming dynasty
North Korea; South Korea
During the Tang Dynasty, Silla was closely related to the Tang Dynasty, and its clothing characteristics were almost the same as those of the Tang Dynasty. After the middle of the Korean dynasty, Hanfu absorbed the clothing styles of the Ming Dynasty, especially women's clothing developed into high-waisted skirts, while official clothing, court clothing and important court dresses kept the Hanfu system and changed with the changes of Hanfu. For example, the back lace of the official black gauze hat in the Tang Dynasty drooped, and Silla officials wore hats. For example, the dress of Empress Li Chao has always been the style of Empress China. The main differences between modern hanbok and hanbok are: hanbok generally has a right collar and a double-breasted (V-neck), while hanbok has an inconspicuous collar, similar to a small V-neck; The women's dress is very tall, and the hem is very wide and fluffy.
Viet Nam
/kloc-Vietnamese (Tokyo) women and children described by Japanese painters in the early 8th century. Vietnamese ancient name is cross toe (China said? Annan? ), in 968 AD, Ding Bu led the establishment of the Ding Dynasty (Daqu Yueguo) and began to become an independent feudal dynasty. Two years later (970), he proclaimed himself emperor. In terms of clothing, especially court dresses, the royal dresses of emperors and ministers are almost replicas of China's royal dresses in the Han Dynasty. Judging from the crown and robe of the last Vietnamese emperor Baoda, it is exactly the same as that of the Ming Dynasty, but the shape is one size smaller than that of the Ming Dynasty emperor. Take the official clothes of emperors in Han Dynasty as an example. The Ming emperor had twelve crowns, and the Vietnamese emperor had six. For more than two hundred years after the Manchu occupation of China, Vietnam, which is connected with the mountains and rivers of southern Xinjiang in China, still retains the Ming-style costumes. This can be clearly reflected in many precious photos and historical materials left by French colonists in Vietnam from the end of 19 to the beginning of the 20th century. A typical example is the French consul Augustus Thevelin? Ois,1August 20, 857? 1July 4, 935) The picture of the dragon robe is mistaken by many people for the dragon robe of Emperor China or the costume of China opera. In fact, the clothes written by Fang Suya are the royal clothes of the Vietnamese emperor, which are similar in shape to the vassals and ministers of Ming Daizong, but with strong Vietnamese clothing characteristics.
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Ryukyu Kingdom began to pay tribute to Ming Dynasty in14th century. Ryukyu has a close relationship with Fujian, and Ryukyu often sends overseas students to Fujian to study China culture. After living in Fuzhou for a long time, some international students also brought Fujian folk customs back to Ryukyu. So at that time, many Ryukyu costumes were modeled after Fujian costumes.
The Identity Classification of Clothing in Ming Dynasty
The emperor's secret service
Uniforms are also called wing-good crown clothes, that is, wearing black gauze folded towels (also known as black gauze wing-good crown), standing collars, narrow sleeves (the sleeve shape gradually expanded in the middle and late Ming Dynasty), embroidered with golden dragons on the front and back and shoulders, and wearing jade boots on the feet. This suit has many uses. The official robes of the Ming emperor are yellow silk, embroidered dragon, lent text and twelve chapters. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern experienced numerous changes. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are other names such as Tuanlong, Zheng Long, Zuolong, Ascending Dragon and Descending Dragon. Among the dragons embroidered on clothes in this picture, there are two kinds of dragons: ascending dragon and descending dragon.
Huanghou clothing
In March of the fourth year of Hongwu, it was decided that the Queen's official dress would be a crested Dai Long, a red sleeve coat, a long gown, a long red skirt, a red lapel, a special bun with dragon and phoenix ornaments, embroidered gold dragon and phoenix patterns and embroidery ornaments. The rockhopper is a kind of ceremonial crown with wire mesh as the tire and decorated with small green phoenix and jewelry tassels. As early as the Qin and Han Dynasties, it has become the prescribed dress of the Empress Dowager, Empress Dowager and Empress. In Ming Dynasty, there were two kinds of crests, one was worn by empresses, and besides the phoenix, the crests were decorated with dragons. Such as the queen's crown, decorated with four phoenixes in Kowloon, twelve big flowers and twelve small flowers; The imperial concubine has nine crowns and four phoenixes, nine flowers and nine flowers. The other is the colorful crown worn by ordinary women, which is not decorated with dragons and phoenixes, but only with beaded flowers, but also called rockhopper.
Official clothes
The costumes of civil and military officials in the Ming Dynasty mainly include court clothes, sacrificial clothes, public clothes and regular clothes. Kirin robe is the official's royal dress. Its clothing features a large front, diagonal collar and loose sleeves, and the front waist is covered with wrinkles. Embroidered patterns, in addition to the chest and back group, are also distributed at the upper end of the rotator cuff and under the waist (a horizontal bar). In addition, a natural color wide edge was sewn under the left and right ribs, which was called? Swing? . Liu Ruoyu, the eunuch of the Ming Dynasty, described this kind of clothing in his book Proceedings. He said:? It has a continuous back placket with a pendulum on both sides. The front placket is divided into two sections, and there is a horse face pleat under it, starting from both sides. ? According to the regulations, the materials and patterns used in this kind of clothing have a certain system. "Ming history? Yu Fuzhi said: In the thirteenth year of Zheng De, he stored yarn red silk for ministers. Its clothing color, bullfighting one product, flying fish two products, python three products, Kirin four or five products, tiger six or seven products; Hanlin technology is not limited to achievements; Only Cao's five tastes are not harmonious. ? The clothes in this painting are embroidered with unicorn patterns. Kirin is an animal in ancient legend, which looks like a deer, with scales, horseshoes and horns. Later generations regarded it as a symbol of good luck and widely used in the decoration of various utensils. The image of Kirin has also undergone some changes. The head is painted as a faucet with two horns, and the tail is painted as a lion's tail. In the Ming Dynasty, it seems that the official dress of embroidered Kirin is not limited to four or five products, but can also be worn by a Royal Guards with special duties.
Officials often
On weekdays, officials in the yamen of this headquarters will wear uniforms. The rules of uniform are: wear a black hat, a collar shirt and a belt around the waist. In the twenty-third year of Hongwu, the length of the official uniforms of civil and military officials was defined as: civil servants, white-collar workers to future generations, one inch to the ground, sleeves over their hands, back to elbows, and public servants, Hou and Xu. The military attache is five inches to the ground and his sleeves are seven inches longer than his hands. In the twenty-fourth year of Hongwu, Pin Guan's "Buer Pattern" was formulated, stipulating that the materials of official uniforms can only be used for silk storage, silk and variegated embroidery. Officials' clothes and curtains are not allowed to use propaganda, yellow and purple, nor are they allowed to embroider dragon and phoenix patterns. Anyone who violates the ban will be guilty of dyeing and weaving.
Wearing a black hat and mending clothes are the main costumes of officials in Ming Dynasty, and officials distinguish them by mending clothes. This kind of robe is the main clothing style of men in Ming Dynasty, which can be worn not only by bureaucrats but also by ordinary people, but with different colors. The collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid dark black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow, and other colors such as blue and ochre are not limited. Mottled collar? . Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must put patches on the chest and back of the robe, with birds for civil servants and beasts for military officers to show the difference.
Classification of Clothing Use in Ming Dynasty
Menfu clothing
Ming dynasty clothes
Coronation: Since the Song Dynasty, there has been almost only one coronation of the emperor.
Hanbok: There are Tian Tong's crown clothes, leather clothes, Hanbok and so on.
Public service: the official service of 100 officials. Everyone uses it.
Uniforms: Restore the uniforms of the Tang and Song Dynasties.
Nvfu clothing
Clothing:
Clothing: delete for the queen, visit temples and attend meetings.
Put it on.
Zhai Yi: This is the Queen's second dress.