The first time I went to Lhasa, Tibet, I went to Potala, Jokhang Temple and Sera Temple, but after I left, I still remember Pabangka (Pabenggang) in the northern suburb of Lhasa. Originally a casual walk, I was deeply moved by its unique beauty.
Chapter 1
distant view
Pabangka is located on Nianre Mountain in the northern suburb of Lhasa, near Sera Temple. On the mountain, you can overlook the back of the old city of Lhasa and Potala Palace and watch the sunset in Lhasa.
I started from the General Hospital of the Military Region, entered the village to the west and walked up the mountain. Near the foot of the mountain, a ladder was drawn on the stone by the roadside. From a distance, the humble Pabangka is located in a ravine, surrounded by mountains on three sides, and its position is excellent.
Dense trees cover the nearby buildings, making it look like an old stone castle. Next to it stands a prayer flagpole, like its loyal guardian. Below are long walls and buildings that protect it safely.
chapter two
The three temples of the Lord
Go along this road, and on the left are three temples in Zhu Xun. The carved eye can be seen on the rock outside the northeast corner of this temple; You can also see the six-character mantra written by the earliest Tunmi Sanbuza (that is, the words "rice", "horse", "ni", "ba", "rice" and "yi") embedded in the far left of the right wall outside the entrance. (I don't know when I went, I miss it very much)
chapter three
Three white pagodas
Go up the broad steps next to the three main temples, and first reach the three big white pagodas. Some staff are painting the tower, and the white color is even more dazzling against the "Lama Red" wall. Highland barley is scattered on the base of the White Pagoda, which should be put by devout prayers. There are several wind chimes on the top, which jingle when the wind blows. People hold their breath and listen, adding a little silence.
chapter four
Pabangka Palace
Pabangka, which means "Stonehenge Palace" in Tibetan, was built on a huge stone. It is said that the original nine-story building has three floors after being destroyed. Surrounded by cliffs, the south side is semicircular; The lower part of the west side is recessed to form a cave, and the outer side is slightly equipped with stone walls, doors and windows, which is the "Ten Days Hall"; The north is square, the gate faces north, and there are steps to enter.
The top floor can overlook three directions, and the wall has several windows, like a stone castle with defensive function.
chapter five
Visual impact of red, yellow and white
Climbing up the stairs along the bright yellow wall is a palace with the color of "Lama Red", and further east is an ancient relic. Inside the palace, there is a huge stupa, all wrapped in silver and inlaid with all kinds of jewelry and gold, similar to the horn stupa of the Dalai Lama in Bugong; There are exquisite murals inside; Turn to the back and look up at a yellow house, which is said to be where Princess Wencheng lived.
There is also a white pagoda forest below, which turned out to be 108. It is said that Master Zong Kaba, the founder of the Yellow Sect, used 108 beads.
I am deeply impressed by this place, because white, red and yellow are simple, but they are full and can directly hit the viewer's heart.
Chapter vi
This mountain
You can reach the back hill through these buildings.
The first thing I saw was a tree full of blessings, and cows and dogs passed by freely.
There is also a white tower built on a big stone on the mountain. You can walk all the way up the faint steps on the stone. There is a white hada hanging on it.
You are not allowed to hang prayer flags behind the mountain. You will be particularly surprised when you see the only big prayer wheel array.
See the practice cave in the distance: bright images are painted on the rocks, and doors and windows can be seen. If you see a cave surrounded by Hada and others. That means someone is practicing, don't bother!
Pabangka also has a celestial burial platform, which we didn't watch up close.
A wall covered with cow dung cakes
Chapter VII
Pabangka's previous life
After visiting Pabangka slowly, I was moved by the quiet and simple beauty here, as if I had entered a paradise. But this is not the whole story. Although this temple is small in scale, it is one of the most important temples in the hearts of Tibetans.
Before the completion of Bugong, it used to be the residence of Songzan Gampo and Princess Wencheng, and it was the political and Buddhist center during the Tubo period. Its history is longer than Jokhang Temple and Jokhang Temple, and it is called "the first palace in Lhasa".
This is also the place where Tibetan was born. After returning from school, Tommi Sambuza continued to specialize in Pabangka and created Tibetan characters. The six-character mantra tablet written by Tunmi after he created Tibetan is also the first six-character mantra tablet in the world.
Therefore, it is not only beautiful, but also "Pabangka has a thickness of 1,400 years, like a reclusive wise man, silently taking care of the origin and extinction, forming a bad void"? ⑴。
Meeting Pabangka in this life is an encounter that spans thousands of years.
At 3: 00 15, the bell rang at the top of the stone hall and the young monk began to debate the scriptures.
The wind is blowing, the wind chimes are ringing, and we are going down the mountain.
hear about
The most beautiful thing is when the peach blossoms are in full bloom in April.
......
postscript
Walk slowly from the General Hospital of the Military Region to 1 hour, and go 3 kilometers west to the asphalt road. There are volunteers at the bus station who can help find drivers who are willing to go up the mountain; "Pabangka" is required for navigation, but "Pabon Gang" cannot be found;
The whole Pabangka area consists of three parts: the Pabangka Palace on the boulder, the cave "Ten Days Hall" in the lower part of the west side of the boulder (also known as Cejilakang) and the "Three Main Temples" on the south slope of the boulder (also known as Risong Kampot);
Special thanks: Sister Lu.
I met Sister Lu on the mountain. After listening to Sister Lu's words, I realized that Pabangka is the birthplace of Tibetan with a long history. Thank sister Lu for giving us a serious explanation: murals, court decoration, celestial burial masters and so on; This is the back garden in her heart. (1) also from sister lu's article.