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Jewelry creation
Choosing a jewelry design major seems to be what Chai Jichang is destined to do, although he has been studying painting and fashion design before. More and more, he feels that he is not so keen on communicating with soft materials such as canvas and cloth.

heavy metal

This work is made of gravel, black zircon and copper. The series of ruins it belongs to expresses struggle, suffocation, heaviness and persistence in the concept.

He prefers hard objects, such as polished metal. Under the action of fire, metal can also become liquid and then reshape. Beating, changing and regenerating ... Chai Jichang was obsessed with this process and turned to the door of jewelry design, and founded his personal brand FRANKCHAI on 20 13.

In order to preserve the craft, Chai Jichang will still use precious metal materials. But he gave up mass production and dense mosaics.

Different from the general jewelry design, he weakened the excessive display of the material itself, and instead emphasized the humanistic theme, that is, creating "narrative jewelry" and telling it with jewelry narrative.

Shakespeare at sea

The work was inspired by an accidental pearl, which the designer discovered just at the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare's birth and made this unrepeatable brooch. The background of the photo is Mr. Lu Xun's English anthology. Under the careful design of time and space, opportunity and designers, the two writers completed an encounter.

Animals are one of Chai Jichang's favorite subjects. Unlike written works, design works can directly write their own thoughts and feelings, so he gave some emotions and ideas to animals with strong knowledge. For example, the rhinoceros and the rabbit are in the same scene, which is stronger and which is weaker is self-evident, and he doesn't need to express it in words.

A flying heart

This series of works takes birds, maps and simple natural gems as the main elements; Plus letters and maps, it's all human feelings In fact, you just need to summon up courage and fly to see different scenery.

In addition, there are many fables and metaphorical stories about animals, which also gives Chai Jichang a lot of creative inspiration.

The work Rabbit from Sunshine City comes from an animal story: the traveler fell down in the forest because he was so hungry. After the fox, bear and rabbit found it, they looked for their own rescue methods. With wisdom, the fox found sweet fruit; With his strength, the bear caught delicious fish; Only the weak rabbit found nothing. Finally, it jumped into the fire.

Rabbit from Sunshine City

Summer Christmas

In the story of "hunter, bear, fox and rabbit", the designer felt that the rabbit saved the hunter with its flesh and jumped into the fire, which was quite a feeling that "the weak made the greatest sacrifice", so he made a series of designs with the rabbit as the theme.

Chai Jichang was deeply moved by the image of the seemingly weak but most willing to sacrifice and powerful rabbit in the story. He is creating a series of works to accompany the rabbit through this journey.

Chai Jichang's love and understanding of stories can be traced back to childhood. At that time, his mother always told him stories about Europe and put him to sleep. So in his works, the European theme is very obvious. Then came the voice of questioning that he didn't use the theme of China.

Sleeping Poseidon

In the work, two seahorses stand back to back, with their heads slightly lowered, and look serene, guarding Poseidon's noble weapons with starfish, which means Poseidon doesn't have to patrol the sea with sharp weapons at this time, hence the name.

"It's not that I don't want to, it's not that I don't like it, it's that China's culture is profound. I don't think I am qualified to touch the aesthetic things handed down by my ancestors. "

Speaking of which, Chai Jichang showed a solemn appearance. He hopes that one day he can make good use of China culture. But at any time, he will keep a heart of awe.

On the other hand, Chai Jichang thinks that his status as a designer in China can represent that his works have China elements. However, these works are the presentation of European culture by a China designer.

The designer's thinking and consideration process itself is a part of the work, and China's design will flow out of the work, making it clear at a glance.

Books are the ladder of human progress. The works use soft pottery to make mini old books and special accessories, and make special effects with unique skills, which has pinned the love of all literati and the hearts of craftsmen.

lighthouse

Along the way, Chai Jichang also formed his own thinking on the creative trend of jewelry design industry.

Jewelry for people, the use of short time, single function, often lying in a jewelry box. Unlike industrial design, fashion design, painting and other design arts, it can be used frequently and can also be used as a long-term decoration of space.

Dressage

Dressage was originally an equestrian event, but now it has been replaced by motorcycles, adding bright colors and mechanical beauty.

How to make jewelry closer to life? In addition to the theme, Chai Jichang has also made great efforts in the modeling of jewelry, so that it can also become an ornament of the family environment when not in use.

"I hope that when people hang a meaningful and picturesque jewel on the wall, they can see the story of their own lives."

Chai Jichang

Jewelry designer

Director of Jewelry Design, Zhejiang College, Tongji University

Q: What do you think of basic painting?

A: It is very important to attach importance to basic training. But when training basic skills, we should pay attention to: we can't be rigid. Our training is not to draw those plaster heads, but to help you show your final thoughts. At this time, even a little scribble, even a little simple, as long as it is in line with your own creative intentions, it is enough to express and record yourself. Therefore, I think we should not only attach importance to basic skills, but also pay too much attention to them.

Q: What are the plans for the future development of the brand?

A: At present, you can only see contemporary jewelry in art galleries and other places. But some companies from other industries will come and invite them to do some cross-border cooperation. I think this is the best state: there is no production, but the brand also has traces of cooperation and innovative design. In this way, designers will not get tired of brand operation, abandon and eliminate their own designs for the sake of the market, and the brand will not have no market prospects.

In the story of the little mermaid, she accepted all the warnings of the witch. Therefore, the witch in the work only has the mouth part, because the medicine swallowed is just an obsession, and those warnings are the final outcome she will face.

witch

Q: So you opened your own studio?

A: Partly for this reason. Besides, I really don't want to give up making jewelry by hand. In fact, as long as I have time, I will do it myself and carry out the customization of precious metals. For example, in The Witch, I carved my face myself. I think designers should participate in the production as much as possible, because customization is actually paying for the designer's overall service, not just drawing a picture and then communicating with the factory.

Q: What is your consumer group?

A: They know how to introspect life and have their own rules. The price of my work, if judged by the materials, is obvious. Fortunately, they won't judge by it. Also, I think the appearance of the wearer is the last step of my work. For these jewelry, with me, with the creator, with the right person to wear, it is truly complete.

conqueror

The designer has been to several European countries, and the magnificent buildings are vivid in my mind. At that time, the powerful empire left endless works of art. Today, they have replaced the powerful army and continue to conquer the world.

Q: As a college teacher, how much do you know about the employment situation of design students?

A: I have always said on the podium that higher education is not to solve the employment problem, from the bachelor's degree of undergraduate education to the subsequent master's and doctoral degrees. I think receiving higher education is not to solve the employment of a certain major, but to learn the ability of interdisciplinary learning and job-hopping.

Designer: Tell the inspiration, ideas and stories of designers.

Creative ambition, listening to everyone's interests.

This article was published in Life Weekly 1754. Please contact me for reprinting. The picture is provided by the interviewee and the copyright belongs to the original author.