In autumn and winter of 2020, Chanel will release another batch of maison gripoix jewelry. Whether it's earrings, necklaces, bracelets or rings, this season's accessories such as belts, brooches and leather goods are also covered with shiny and bright colors maison gripoix for house of chanel.

Chanel autumn and winter 2020

Anyone familiar with Chanel will know that maison gripoix is a studio, which was acquired by Chanel House in 2005. Besides Chanel, they also provide services for brands such as Guerlain, tom ford and Elsa Schiaparelli. These artificial jewels may take 100 hours to make, but it's worth it. They can be the brightest places in the whole body.

This time, it is an extended reading at the end of vivienne westwood: Punk Old Lady's Princess Heart.

/kloc-in the 9th century, the Rothschild family joined forces with Britain, France and Austria to create a new aesthetics-le gout rothschild, which has not been translated in China. Literally, it is "Rothschild flavor", which represents the extreme complexity of modern times.

Extremism prevailed in ancient times and modern times. There used to be a romantic word called Qizhen Pavilion, which was also regarded as the embryonic form of Baroque. Especially in ancient times, people filled their rooms with specimens, artworks and animal bones-in the words of Google Art, the cabinets in the museum were a bit weird and spectacular.

Frans II Franken painted a corner of the room at 1636.

Later, French rococo was richer and bolder in color than Baroque. Together with the Art Nouveau movement in Austria and Rothschild's rich family, le gout rothschild was formed. The Rothschild family once unified the banking industry and once developed into five major factions. Legato Rothschild has influenced other big families in the world, including Astor family in real estate, Vanderbilt family in shipping and Rockefeller family in oil industry. It sounds like the crisp sound of gold coins hitting.

/kloc-in the 9th century, two things happened to the Rothschild family. One is that Ansel Rothschild died in Germany, and his son has long been tired of opening a bank. After inheriting his father's wealth, he came to Oxfordshire, England, and began to build his own Legato Rothschild empire according to his own ideal, which is now Wozden Manor.

At the same time, family members are committed to collecting gem necklaces, and the bigger the brightly colored treasures, the better, including Renaissance gems and shellfish jewelry. A large number of unparalleled treasures owned by the family are now displayed to the public at the British Museum and Wozden Manor respectively.

Nicole Kidman of Wozden Manor

In history, le gout rothschild also had a stage of jumping off the street-1957. Almost a century after the manor was built, with the British's aversion to French home decoration, Wozden Manor was also criticized as "ugly to the extreme". By the way, there is le gout rothschild in the fashion field, which is also known as Saint Laurent. His and his partner's home is arranged in strict accordance with Rothschild's le gout.

Mr. Saint Laurent's home in Paris

Hannah Rothschild was born and raised in England. She is a trustee of the National Gallery of Britain, studying art, writing and making movies at the same time. As a frequent visitor to fashion parties, she is the unswerving successor of Le Gott Rothschild. Hannah herself has been looking for19th century jewelry in the market since 1990s.

1995, she found a flame lily necklace in a flea market in Paris-this necklace consists of a string of flame lilies originating in Africa, with two green leaves; Lily petals are inlaid with silver edges and stamens are golden yellow. Warm and bright, you only need this single item to make a boring evening dress shine. This necklace is from the collaboration series of Van Cleef & Arpels and Ms Chanel.

Chanel gripoix specialty store, 1869

This necklace was also exhibited in the 20 13 Metropolitan Museum.

It wasn't expensive at that time (Ms. Hannah's original words), but how expensive was it when she said it wasn't expensive? ), but it is hard to find. In the past ten years, she has only collected five similar jewels in stalls and flea markets. ...

These jewels are man-made, but they are not ordinary man-made ...

The traditional lost wax method is a casting method, which has been used in bronze casting in ancient China. The most commendable thing is the statue tray of the tomb of Zeng Houyi, which is densely packed with exquisite plane patterns and made by lost wax method. This casting method is not popular enough, which is related to the limited amount of beeswax and the complicated production. The lost wax method is generally used to cast products with very complex three-dimensional structure, which is beyond the competence of ordinary matching method. The lost wax method is to carve the product to be cast (wax mold) with wax mixed with beeswax, rosin and butter, and then pour mud washed with clay on the wax mold, and sprinkle quartz sand, broken plant fiber, sawdust (sawdust residue) and so on. When it is dry, pour the mud mixed with clay and yellow mud, and then sprinkle with sand. After repeatedly making the mold shell outside the wax mold, take the mold shell to the fire and heat it. When heated, the wax melts into a liquid state and disappears from the mold shell. After that, the mold shell is sintered (it cannot be vitrified, so the sintering temperature generally does not exceed 800℃), and then the molten metal is poured into the mold shell for casting. (from Wikipedia)

Maison gripoix himself admits that its raw materials are "low cost"

Because the process has not changed, but it is particularly time-consuming.

In Paris in A.D. 1860, a young Parisian craftsman named Angustin Glip used this ancient method to burn colorful glass and ceramics, which were pure, transparent and took into account the colors. She quickly attracted the then actress Sarah Benhard. The actress not only wears a stage performance, but also happily recommends it in the sister circle. Soon, grip's studio was crowded with the wives of royalty and senior ladies, who were eager to pin her stained glass on her hat and fur.

1920, angus Ding passed the workshop to her daughter Susan, and she also noticed the fashion changes of young French girls-they cut their hair short and put on short skirts. They prefer jewels to diamonds. Susan began to adjust the design of maison gripoix, and soon she attracted the attention of Ms. Lang Fan and Ms. Chanel.

1937 vogue released hand-painted maison gripoix.

What Ms. Chanel said about jewelry must be familiar to everyone-"It doesn't need to be genuine, just shocking", and there are more radical things, such as "hanging a pile of expensive jewelry around your neck, it is better to stick money all over your body" ... She has a gold and silver jewelry given to her by her ex-boyfriend and ex-lover, especially Byzantine jewelry with rubies and a lot of pearl necklaces. She simply asked Susan to "follow these lettering" and said, "Let others think it was an old thing dug up at the construction site near Kangpeng Street."

Therefore, in terms of time, not only maison gripoix has a longer history, but also the cooperation between the Glip family and Chanel House is ahead of the cooperation between Duke Fortula and her. They will also cooperate with each other in three aspects, such as this 1950s brooch, which was designed by Duke Verdura and polished by maison gripoix. Because I am too old to know what it is, some people guess it is a flame. Looking at a brooch with your chin cupped is like archaeology.

Gripoix, the house of Chanel in the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s.

In this way, the Glip family has been cooperating with Chanel House. From glass-fired fake pearls and artificial metals to semi-rare colored treasures, to diamonds and colored glass, they have developed various possibilities of these artificial jewels with design and technology. Now it is said that there are only two craftsmen left in maison gripoix?

Chanel autumn and winter 2020

Of course, if you can find the gripoix House of Balenciaga, the gripoix House of christian dior and the gripoix House of Yves Saint Laurent in street stalls, the gripoix House of christian lacroix and the gripoix House of Ba Erman are even rarer. They are all customers of the gripoix House.

Since 1990s, artificial glass jewelry outside France has become cheaper and cheaper. Nowadays, the design of maison gripoix is more and more concise, which may be the reason why le gout rothschild school like Ms Hannah is only interested in medieval models. I'm just thinking, in 2020, I won't choose poverty wind, and I won't choose frigidity wind. Maybe the darker it is, the more I need complicated decorations to arm myself. If you want to buy maison gripoix, there are physical stores in Paris, and flowers are always the best choice for maison gripoix.

Of course, these fancy glass beads have always been expensive, and it is not impossible for bold male students.

With the rise of online websites, Ms. Hannah no longer needs to look hard at the stalls. She began to buy maison gripoix and maison gripoix for Chanel's medieval jewelry online, but most of them failed: some of them had no size at all, and some were even fakes, wasting a lot of money.

Not every seller on the internet will show the back of these medieval jewels-but this is exactly what I find interesting: you can see the "original" completely different from its front, which is the best mark of ancient handwork.

For young people who want to collect medieval jewelry, especially the jewelry of Chanel House, Ms. Hannah has something to say.

A) Don't use them as value-added tools, you can't afford those maison gripoix in the British Museum;

B) Don't try to pass them on to the next generation. Translated, don't use "you can pass on your daughter" as an excuse to swipe your card when your brain is hot. Her own children have no interest in "minimalism" when they grow up, but they like "minimalism" like their grandparents. You see, your next generation may not like your collection;

C) Establish a trusted seller relationship and make friends with the same hobbies. Ms Hannah, who no longer tries to pay tuition online, only recognizes a few sellers who are fixed in Paris, Morocco and new york, and also exchanges things with fans through her circle of friends.

Calm down, the above seems to be the general law of consumption: buy what you like, find what you like, and close the webpage to find it. After all, the process of searching is more enjoyable than five minutes of swiping a card, and each process is different. So I reflected on myself. I don't seem to have bought the same model with pictures on my mobile phone, nor did I watch the live broadcast to buy goods.

After listening to her words, I was relieved.

end

Co-ordinate | hit hard

Typesetting | yellow

The above text ends. Open it, and you will see some information about Chanel House in auction houses and flea markets. You don't have to open it. Sotheby's and Christie's have public files to check at will.

Last year, Ms. Hannah had a whim and invited an expert from the auction house to evaluate the value of her 60 collections, which surprised her-