There are three kinds of cymbals: phoenix cymbals, full cymbals and semi-cymbals. The inner tube is made of black velvet and satin strips, with silver wire or copper wire, decorated with jade or beads. "Generally, women use copper wire or iron wire to make their hair sticks. There are three kinds of cymbals: phoenix cymbals, full cymbals and semi-cymbals. Like a cockscomb in front of a scorpion, covered with a dustpan, the dome is wide up and down; Surround it with two strands of hair, and then insert ornaments such as flat hair, hair clasp and flowers.
Hairpin is an essential jewelry for Manchu women to comb all kinds of bun. Usually, Manchu women like to decorate their hair with big earlobes, small earlobes, beaded hairpins, sideburns hairpins, crested hairpins and faucet hairpins made of precious materials such as gold, silver, pearl jade, agate and coral. Although there are many kinds of hair clips, the choice should be based on everyone's conditions and identity. For example, before the People's Pass, Fujin in Nurhachi and Fujin and Gege in Baylor used Dongzhu as the best material for making hair accessories. After 200 years, it was gradually replaced by Hepu Pearl Nanzhu.
Compared with pearls, gold and jade are superior materials, such as gold-plated, silver-plated or copper, as well as precious stones, jadeite and coral ivory. They are made into various hairpin ornaments and decorated on the bun, which is much simpler than after entering the customs. After entering the customs, Manchu women, especially court women, paid more attention to hairpin ornaments because of the influence of Han women's headdresses. For example, in the 16th year of Qianlong (175 1), when Emperor Qianlong celebrated his mother's 60th birthday, only the names of all kinds of hair clips were jaw-dropping, for example, All goes well, Mei Caiying wins the hairpin, Jingfu sleeps in peace, and Riyongqin writes the hairpin. These hair clips are undoubtedly the top grade of materials and production.
Judging from the hairpin ornaments left by empresses in Qing Dynasty, there are two kinds of hairpin. One is a practical hairpin, which is mostly used to fix the bun and head shape. The other is a decorative hairpin, which is made of precious materials with exquisite patterns and is specially used to comb the bun and wear it in an obvious position. Many realistic palace paintings collected in the Forbidden City now depict queens wearing hairpins. From the picture, some of them put the hairpin in the middle of the bun, and some inserted it obliquely at the root of the bun. Empresses' heads are full of jewels, but their hairpins are the best. Therefore, in the Qing Dynasty, empresses and concubines were all made of jade jewelry, and their production techniques were also very particular. It is often the most precious to make a hairpin with a whole piece of jade, coral crystal or ivory. For example, the white jade in the Forbidden City in Beijing is made of a pure suet white jade, and the hairpin is the last stroke of the birth word. Similarly carved jade plate sausage hairpin and coral bat hairpin are excellent works of hairpin decoration. In addition, there are Jin Fu Qian Guan, Magpie Hairpin and Five Bat Shoushou Hairpin, which attract people's attention because of their exquisite carving and exquisite production. There is also a kind of head hairpin inlaid with various pearls and gems on a gold base, which is mostly composed of a head and a pin, but it still has a sense of wealth and luxury. With the gradual widening of the hairstyle of the empress in Qing Dynasty, the modeling of hairpin ornaments has gradually developed to two extremes. One is that the hairpin head gradually becomes smaller, such as pimple needle, ear-digging spoon and old crow spoon. The other is that the hairpin ornaments are getting bigger and bigger, which are not only suitable for Manchu women to comb two heads and cover a large area, but also gradually evolve into headdresses, flat squares and other big jewelry.
Hairpins, as jewelry, are worn on the head, which not only beautifies the bun, but also symbolizes the auspicious words made of hairpins and the beautiful pursuit of expressing feelings and wishes. As far as the hairpin ornaments left by empresses in Qing dynasty are concerned, the diversity of forms and patterns is beyond the previous generation. A deformed bead "Boy Ping An" hairpin once exhibited in the Treasure Hall is a rare treasure. Hairpin is an exceptionally deformed pearl, about five centimeters long, and looks like a dancing urchin. On the left side of the deformed bead, a sapphire vase is decorated, and several thin red coral branches are inserted in the bottle mouth to set off the word "An". There is a A Jin Ruyi handle behind the urchin, which is connected with the Aquarius into a whole, and the head of Jinleisi Ganoderma lucidum is exposed on the right side of the urchin. Judging from the urchin decoration, it is a boy. When the whole wishful thinking is linked together, it is called "the boy is safe" or "the boy is happy and safe". The moral ethics of feudal society pays attention to the "three cardinal principles and five permanents", that is, the monarch is the minister's cardinal principle, the husband is the wife's cardinal principle and the father is the child's cardinal principle. The emperor's wives and concubines, of course, take the emperor as the key link and want to have more children for the royal family, so that the royal family can have a strong blood line and the imperial power can be passed down forever. The intention of this hairpin is self-evident. However, the facts are not so satisfactory. Twenty-four of the thirty-five sons of Emperor Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty grew up, and the princes fought for power and profit, so that Emperor Kangxi died before he was seventy years old. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, two emperors, Tongzhi and Guangxu, had queens and concubines, but no children, which made their mother Cixi listen to politics twice and ruled China for half a century.
Cixi is also a person who loves beauty. She likes gorgeous clothes all her life, especially rubies, red corals, jade peony hairpin and butterfly hairpin. In the 11th year of Xianfeng, Yining died in chengde mountain resort. Cixi became a widow at the age of 27. According to Manchu custom, the wife should be her husband Dai Xiao, and she was released for 27 months. The hair clasp on your head should be made of uncut bone or pure silver. Cixi ordered the factory to produce a batch of headdresses such as silver gray jade and thymelaeaceae. In February of the first year of Tongzhi, this batch of plain clothes jewelry was sent to Cixi one after another. Cixi wears it painfully every day. After the release expires, all the jewels are put in the cold palace. Cixi put on her exquisite and luxurious headdress again, and this habit remained until her later years.
Emperors, empresses, empresses and even officials of civil servants and military attaché s can wear imperial robes and beads. However, according to different grades and identities, the texture of Zhu Chao is also different. Only the emperor, empress and empress dowager can wear the Oriental Pearl. The Oriental Pearl is composed of 65,438+008 oriental pearls, and every 27 oriental pearls are separated by four red coral pearls at equal intervals. The beads on it are gourd-shaped and called "Buddha's head". When wearing beads, the head of the Buddha hangs down on the back, and a group of jade ornaments are connected by a yellow sash, which is called "the back cloud". Beads are hung on red coral beads on the left and right sides of the chest and decorated with one string or two strings of turquoise beads, which is called "commemoration". Zhu Chao's composition has profound meaning. 108 The East Pearl represents twelve months of the year. Four red coral beads symbolize the four seasons, spring, summer, autumn and winter. They hang down from the Buddha's head and the shadow clouds behind them, meaning "one yuan starts all over again". Three strings of turquoise commemorate the first, middle and tenth days of January. The emperor wore a plate of oriental pearls and two plates of red coral beads on his shoulders to show his special status.
There are two kinds of crowns: the crown of the court and the crown of the auspicious battle.
In the early Qing dynasty, ordinary flag girls and Han women imitated Manchu ladies' hair accessories, focusing on high bun. When combing their hair, they divide it into two long flat bun, about one foot wide, commonly known as "fork head" (also called "two ends" or "handle head"). When making a fork head, a lock of hair hangs from the back of the head, and the lower end is trimmed into two sharp corners to form a dovetail shape, which is called "dovetail". In the Qing Dynasty, Wu Shizan described this hairstyle in Gong Ci: "The bun and the clouds are in line, and the pearls protect the cricket." The city is more than a foot high, and the forked dove tail is low. "These palace words vividly describe the unique hairstyles of Manchu women.
Official robes of Tang Dynasty:
1. Dressing with gauze sleeves: it belongs to making clothes. Its hair is combed with a unique hairstyle in the Tang Dynasty, with "high walls" and large flowers, decorated with flower pins, swaying when walking, and the beauty of moths is full of dots. It is wearing an open collar, big sleeves and bright clothes, a long skirt, a big ribbon, a knot and a pair of high-top shoes. In the Tang Dynasty, this kind of dress, as a dress, was very popular among nobles and ladies.
Second, the Tang Dynasty ladies' half-sleeved shirt system: it is a unique fashion in the Tang Dynasty. It was originally worn as a banquet, and later it was worn as a uniform for court concubines and celebrities.
Third, the Tang ladies' banquet dress: the upper body is a tube top, covered with gauze and colorful clothes, and the lower part is a long skirt with a waist and chest, which is narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, with a small band at the end. It is a banquet dress, but the head comb is high and flowers are worn, so the dress can also be used as a foreign dress.
Clothing in Ming Dynasty can be basically divided into python, sitting in a basin, lying down, pleating and clothing.
Python, or embroidered robe, is a costume given to heroes by the Ming emperor. Only emperors or dignitaries are eligible to wear them, and they are named after the pythons embroidered on their clothes. Python is a four-claw dragon shaped like a dragon. In the play, embroidered robes are the official uniforms of emperors, generals and queens, which are divided into men and women. Men's embroidered robes are dominated by four-claw dragon patterns, while women's embroidered robes are dominated by dragon patterns or phoenix patterns.
Embroidered robes are very decorative, and the sleeves are wide, giving people a solemn feeling. Its gorgeous patterns not only symbolize dignity, but also have a sense of rhythm, and are good at revealing and expressing the emotions of actors, making the performance more substantial and rich.
Bi originated in the Ming Dynasty, which is characterized by a large collar and double-breasted robes, so it is also called double-breasted robes. Besides, it is a luxurious and unrestrained casual dress with split sleeves. In China traditional operas, Kui has always been the official costume of emperors, generals, officials and gentry. There are differences between men and women, and the colors are dividend, blue, yellow, crimson, purple, pink and sky blue, among which red is the representative color of wedding or celebration.
Kao, also known as armor, originated from the uniforms of generals in the Qing Dynasty, and later evolved into the costumes of military commanders in traditional operas, usually with round necks and tight sleeves. There are two ways of learning: hard learning and soft learning. Hard leaning can insert triangular leaning flag, soft leaning can not insert flag. With the continuous evolution of embroidered robes, the improved ones are not as powerful as the traditional ones, but lighter, especially suitable for difficult martial arts movements.
The Qing Dynasty is an era with the greatest changes in the history of China's clothing. The Qing Dynasty was an era when Manchu and Chinese cultures blended, especially the costume culture, and it was also a non-Han dynasty that retained the most primitive costume tradition after entering China. Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty clearly realized that clothing is a set of political theories that have been included in the clothing system, and it is not necessarily a form of representation, so that it can spread to the whole country for a long time. The Qianlong dynasty formulated a detailed system of crown service and illustrated it with pictures, so that future generations could "live forever"
In the Qing dynasty, clothes, robes and mandarin jackets were originally worn by wealthy families, but later they became popular and became the national common clothing. The hat I wear on weekdays is a small hat with melon skin, and the color is black outside and red inside. The cheongsam worn by Manchu women was wide and big in the early days, but later it became a waistline, and a "vest" was added outside the cheongsam. Their shoes are also very special, they are flowerpot-style high-top shoes.
Men's wear:
Dress jacket: due to different decorative patterns, the official rank is different.
Clothes: for the emperor.
Dragon Jacket: Written for the Prince.
Supplementary services: ranking according to different decorative patterns.
Royal dress: the most grand big dress.
Jifu: The costume of the Qing Dynasty, next to the Korean costume, is Jifu, which was worn at auspicious ceremonies.
Uniforms: The clothing system of the Qing Dynasty only made few provisions on uniforms.
Women's wear:
Court dress: The queen's court dress is a court dress, a court gown and a court gown, which are integrated into one.
Gifford: It consists of a coat and a robe.