The hats worn by the ancients were called "Dai Li" and "Dai Li". Yuan, the first and the first are the most important sounds. Among many hats in ancient times, the most important one is the "crown", which can be said to be the strangest invention of ancient clothing in China.
This is so important and peculiar that costume movies and TV series will certainly not be spared, so we see such a crown: the two ends of the crown plate are inclined or wavy; The length of headdress is out of sight. There are 1 1 headdresses on the front, and each headdress has 20 pearls.
Actors often shake their heads when wearing this headdress, and the headdress swings with the "collision", which looks very chic and enhances the charm of the role. But this kind of design and performance only comes from the understanding of modern people, who have abandoned etiquette but lost its connotation.
It was invented by Huang Di, the Crown.
According to historical records, this crown was invented by Huangdi and made by his minister Cao Cao. Later period was called "Emperor", Xia Dynasty called "Shou", Shang Dynasty called "Ji" and Zhou Dynasty called "Mian".
The word "emperor" of the emperor was originally a hat, but now it can also be used to express identity by clothes. However, are emperors, emperors, emperors and crowns the same in appearance and structure? This problem is difficult to prove. Only the crown style has been handed down. This style is undoubtedly very strange today.
There is no explanation for the style of crown in history, which can only be inferred from the concept of modern people. First of all, in primitive society, people often wear colored stones and animal teeth as jewelry on their heads and faces to show their identity and ability. The more they wear, the higher their status and ability. Secondly, when there are too many jewels, sticking to hair and cheeks will get in the way and you need to stay away from your face.
From this point of view, the appearance of the crown becomes reasonable. Our ancestors just accidentally hung jewelry on the front and back of their faces with plates. Others often use bigger and bigger jewels or set them higher and higher.
The crown is mainly composed of crown roll, age, crown plate, crown cap, Tang Dynasty, tassel and so on. However, the crown plate, the crown seal and the hat are more detailed components.
The cover plate at the top of the crown is called "flag", also called "crown plate". The top is black, the bottom is red, and the front is low and the back is high. The size of the roof varies from side to side, from 1 ft 2 by 7 inches to 2 ft 4 by 1 ft 2. In addition, this kind of wooden board is flat, unlike some costume dramas, where both ends are tilted or the waves are up and down.
Beads hanging at the front and rear ends of the crown plate are called crown flags. The length of the headdress should be lower than the line of sight, and it is generally composed of colored silk threads passing through colored beads. The number of headdresses varies according to status. Wang Wei, a famous poet in the Tang Dynasty, wrote a poem "Nine Days Exposed to the Palace, Many Countries Bowed Their Bows and Beads crowned", describing the grandeur and solemnity of the early Ming Dynasty. 1000 years later, the weather in the imperial city continues, which shows how strong the visual impact of wool surface is.
Tang hung two topaz on two ear holes. Its common name is "ear". Sometimes it is made of yellow cotton, the size of an orange. In winter, hanging two stones next to your ears will make you feel cool. Changing to yellow cotton will keep you warm.
The design of the crown is related to ruling the world.
Because of its high value, cotton has been the ceremonial crown of emperors, governors and ministers since the Zhou Dynasty. These people are usually members of the royal family, so the crown is a symbol of family rule. So, what is the connection between the design of the crown and the governance of the world?
There are many basic things in the crown plate, the most important thing is that the front is low and the back is high, which is related to the name of the crown. The ancients explained that "cotton" in cottonseed means "autumn" and means leaning forward. These gestures represent the courtesy and diligence of the emperor and senior officials. Therefore, Dai Mian embodies identity and culture. Therefore, people who are inclined or undulating at both ends of the crown can only show their personality or dramatic style at most, which is far from the realm of the ancients.
In the eyes of modern people, the most mysterious thing is probably a series of crown banners hanging on the front and back of the face.
The highest configuration of the crown includes 12 flags on the front and back, with 12 colored beads on each side. Other senior officials, according to the grade, reduce the number of headdresses and colored beads, thus strengthening the grade. Mao has a nice name-Fan Lu, which means dew. Dong Zhongshu, a scholar in the Han Dynasty, has a story about the Spring and Autumn Annals. As long as he takes a look, he can see that he is talking about the concern of emperors and princes.
However, the ancestors were not satisfied with Mao's identity and status, which gave him a richer cultural interpretation. Their intentions are beyond imagination.
The ancients explained that the purpose of hanging headdress is to maintain a solemn image. The head is upright, the movement is slow, and the crown still does not shake, showing the majesty of the emperor. If you can't sit still or walk fast, your head will get bigger because of absorbent cotton. Are you a little embarrassed? In some costume dramas, the little emperor couldn't stand this bondage and suddenly flirted, which was obviously not enough.
Some people think that Mao Mao's purpose of covering his sight is to remind the emperor not to see too clearly. They are wise emperors and should see what they should see, not what they should not see. Dong Fangshuo, a famous figure in the Western Han Dynasty, held this view. He thinks that the function of cotton wool is to "hide light". In his view, there are no fish in clear water, and there are no disciples in people's view.
Ear filling is an inconspicuous part that many people may not notice, but this design also contains the good intentions of our ancestors. Dong Fangshuo explained the function of turning a deaf ear, because the emperor should not listen to anything, but should listen to what they should listen to, and should not listen to what they should not listen to. Listening is equivalent to "listening"
Of course, "hood" and "empty color" have positive aspects, but if they are both like what Dong Fangshuo said, it is difficult for an emperor to govern the country with his eyes and ears closed. Therefore, if there is no need to give Mianmao and Zhong Er a cultural explanation, it may be more reasonable to say that Mianmao hopes the emperor can understand that everyone is as precious as the jewels in front of him. The so-called seriousness means that the emperor should know that every suggestion is like jade in the ear. Although it is hard, it is precious.
Qin Shihuang abolished his crown and was promoted.
The ancients said that there were three ministers in the period of the Yellow Emperor: Hu Cao, Xun Zi and Yu Ze. Among them, Cao Cao is the crown, Xunzi is the crown, Yuze is the cover, and sandals are the cover. These three people can be said to be the founders of China's clothing industry.
Corona is the most prominent crown. Generally speaking, only senior officials can wear crowns, and most of them are members of the royal family. However, since the Zhou Dynasty, the scale of rule has been expanding, officials with other surnames have increased, and other types of crowns have become a major trend. This trend was very obvious in Qin Shihuang's time.
In modern people's impression, Qin Shihuang wears a crown, but this image is not accurate. Qin Shihuang wore the crown only before the reunification of China, because he did something immediately after the reunification: in, he abolished the six-crown system of the Zhou Dynasty and showed great enthusiasm for the crown from then on.
Qin Shihuang himself often wore celestial crowns, and incorporated the crowns of other vassal States into his official clothing system. For example, Zhao's "crown of enemy gods" is the crown of military commanders. King Chu was appointed king of France. The highest mountain is the highest in the whole field. The reason is not difficult to understand. We can't rule the whole of China by winning the surname. We must establish a bureaucratic system with a large number of foreign surnames. The kingship embodies family rule, so it is necessary to abolish and develop kingship.
As can be seen from the encyclopaedia of the Ming Dynasty, "Three Tales and Pictures Society", Liu Bang inherited the clothing system of the Qin Dynasty, so no emperor of the Western Han Dynasty was crowned in the portrait. Other historical data also show that Liu Bang's favorite is Liu Guan and Fan Li's is named after Fan Li. However, in the Western Han Dynasty, various headdresses and costumes appeared, such as Jinxian Guan, Jianhua Guan, Fangshan Guan and Qiao Guan.
Unlike modern times, which mainly serve aesthetics, ancient costumes serve politics more. Knowing this difference, we can see the historical truth and evolutionary background behind clothing.