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Professor: The text is: Dr. Rong Lu, Wei Wu: General Wei Zhen.
Second-class: Prince Shao Shi, Prince Shaofu, Prince Shaobao, Chief Minister of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Deputy Governor of the Eight Banners, Commander-in-Chief of the Guard, Deputy Governor of the Special City, Commander-in-Chief of the Forward, Commander-in-Chief of the Guard and Deputy Governor of the Special City.
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From the three products: Guanglu Siqing, salt transport ambassador, salt transport ambassador, cooperative leader, guerrilla.
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Grant: The text is: Dr. Zhong Xian, Wei Wu: Captain Wu Zhao.
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Professor: The text is: North Korean doctor Wei Wu: Captain Xuanwu.
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Grant: Wen Wei: Dr. Zheng Feng, Wei Wu: Wu De, riding captain.
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Grant: The text is: Dr. Feng Zhi, Wei Wu: Captain Wu Dezuo.
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Grant: Lin Wen Lang Wuwei: Wu Xin Riding Commandant
From seven categories: offering sacrifices to thousands of households, offering sacrifices to thousands of households, state judgments and various official experiences.
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Jiupin: Music Department, Wishing Officer, Commending and Giving Lang, County Master Book, General Manager of Outsourcing.
The text is; Deng awarded Wuwei; Captain xiuwu
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Shu Fei, the stepprincess of the ancestor Xuan Empress.
Taizu (Nurhachi) filial piety, Empress Yuan, succeeded Princess Da, Tai, and Tai Fei Mao.
Emperor Taizong (Huang taiji) Wen Huang Xiaozhuang Wen Huang Min He.
Yi Guifei Kang Shu Hui Fei Taizong Zhu Fei
Sai-jo (the emperor shunzhi) filial piety, filial piety, filial piety and filial piety.
Shu Huifei's ancestor Zhu Fei.
Saint (Emperor Kangxi) Empress Xiao Chengren, Empress Xiao Zhaoren, Empress Xiao Yiren and Empress Xiao Gongren.
Jing Min Di Gui Fei Ding Yidun Yi Di Gui Fei? Huang Hui imperial concubine saint Zhu Fei.
Sejong (Yong Zhengdi) showed filial piety to Empress Xian and Empress Dunsu.
The imperial concubine of the Qing emperor and the concubine of Sejong
Emperor Gaozong (Emperor Qianlong), Empress Xianchun of filial piety, Empress Ulan Nala of filial piety.
Huang Huixian Guifei Chun Huang Hui Guifei Qing Palace Huang Guifei Imperial Noble Consort Zhemin
Shuguiwan Guigaozong Zhu Fei
Xiao Shurui, the empress of Injong, obeys the imperial concubine respectfully.
Yu and Huang Guifei Renzong Zhu Fei
Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty became a queen of filial piety, a queen of filial piety, and a queen of filial piety.
Zhuang Shungui's Princess, Tong Guifei and Xuanzong Zhu Fei
Wenzong filial piety show queen filial piety show queen filial piety show queen.
Zhuang Guifei Mei Guifei Duan Guifei Wenzong
Mu Zongxiao, Shu Shen, Empress Huang.
Zhuanghe Huang Guifei Huang Jingyi Guifei Rong Huang Hui Guifei
Emperor Duan Kang, the filial queen of Dezong, was obedient to the imperial concubine.
Queen Shu Fei of Xuan Tong.
Emperor's Clothing System in Qing Dynasty
The materials of casual clothes of emperors in Qing Dynasty were mostly single-color woven flowers or jacquard silk, satin, yarn, brocade and other textures. Whether weaving flowers or jacquard, patterns symbolizing good fortune are often used. Such as Tuanlong, Tuanshou and Tuanhe, meaning "happiness" and "longevity"; The patterns of bats, group initials, panchang and streamers mean "long life" because bats are homophonic with "blessing", "longevity" and "longevity". For another example, the word ""or the pattern composed of evergreen flowers and ganoderma lucidum heads is called "all the best"; A ribbon is tied around the neck of the gourd, which together with the word ""is called "future generations". Because gourd is a climbing plant, continuous fruit picking means continuous reproduction of offspring, which means forever.
The dress system of the Qing Dynasty also stipulated that wearing different clothes should be accompanied by corresponding crowns and hats. The emperor's crown and hat include royal service crown, auspicious service crown, regular service crown and traveling service crown. Smoked mink and black fox are crowned in winter and jade grass is crowned in summer. The emperor's crown includes royal crown, auspicious crown, permanent crown and walking crown. The imperial crown can be divided into winter and summer. The winter dynasty crown is rolled-eaves, made of sea dragon, smoked mink or black fox skin, covered with red velvet thread spikes, decorated with three layers of gold crowns in the middle, and decorated with a first-class big ball in the middle of each layer. Surrounded by a golden dome, it is decorated with four golden dragons. The head and back of the golden dragon are inlaid with a first-class East Pearl, and each of the four golden dragons holds an East Pearl. The summer crown is covered with alms, which are made of jade grass, rattan and bamboo bridge. Its top is also cylindrical, with * * * three layers, each layer is folded by four golden dragons, each dragon has an East Pearl in its mouth, and the top is a Big East Pearl. In addition, on the canopy, there is a golden Buddha in front, with fifteen East Beads embedded, followed by a "forest" and seven East Beads in front. Gifford crown, with a golden base full of flowers at the top and a big pearl at the top. Always wear a crown, black velvet is covered with red tassels, and red velvet is crowned.
The emperor should wear beads in royal robes, and beads of different textures should be worn according to different occasions. Zhu Chao is composed of 108 East Beads. Every 27 East Beads are divided into four parts: up, down, left and right, and four red coral beads are arranged at equal intervals. The beads on it are gourd-shaped and called "Buddha's head". When wearing beads, the head of the Buddha hangs down on the back, and a group of jade ornaments are connected by a yellow sash, which is called "the back cloud". Beads are hung on red coral beads around the chest and decorated with one or two turquoise beads, which is called "commemoration". Zhu Chao's composition is of special significance. One hundred and eight beads represent twelve months of the year, and four red coral beads symbolize the four seasons, spring, summer, autumn and winter. The Buddha's head and shadow cloud hang down from behind, meaning "the beginning of unity". Three strings of turquoise monuments represent the first, middle and tenth days of January. The emperor wears a plate of oriental pearls when wearing royal robes, while the queen and empress dowager wear a plate of oriental pearls when wearing royal robes, and two plates of red coral pearls are hung on their shoulders to show their special status. The emperor wears beads of different textures and colors according to different occasions: lapis lazuli beads are the sky, amber or beeswax beads are the ground, red coral beads are the sun, and turquoise beads are the moon. Beads with different textures and colors symbolize the sky, the earth, the sun and the moon, while the beads in Dongzhu are dedicated to the emperor as a link between heaven and earth.
When the emperor wears clothes, he should wear a corresponding belt around his waist, royal clothes and auspicious clothes. There are two kinds of Korean ribbons, one is a bright yellow ribbon for ceremony, and four gold plates with honey stones and oriental pearls embedded in them. One is for sacrifice, and four gold squares are embedded with a string of beads and various jade. There are hanging objects in the belt, namely left and right handkerchiefs, bags, tunnels, scabbard knives, etc. Jifu belt and Daichao belt have the same color and similar shape. The four gold plates on the belt are inlaid with jewels at will, with a corner buckle at the end and two rings on the left and right sides of the column for wearing. It is also very particular to wear a wallet. Manchu people call the purse "testimonies", which is a favorite ornament of Manchu people. Manchu old customs, both men and women, wear robes and belts, with "workers" tied to them, and purse is one of them. It evolved from the "bag" (a bag of rice) carried by Manchu ancestors when they went out hunting or nomadic, and it is the same as the sheath knife for cutting, the fire sickle for ignition and the handkerchief for wiping sweat. With the development of productivity and the change of production mode, nomadic and hunting have become fixed life and farming, and these jobs have lost their original meaning and become furnishings. The works of the Qing emperor are of high quality and exquisitely made. Embroider various patterns on silks and satins to match clothes. The patterns embroidered on the purse are "Five Grains" (the first month), "Five Poisons" (Duanyang Festival), "Queqiao Fairy Meeting" (July), "Fragrant Osmanthus fragrans" (Mid-Autumn Festival), "Chrysanthemum" (Double Ninth Festival in September), "Gourd Rising" (Winter solstice Festival), "Jiazi Re-established" and "Xianning in the World".
The clothes of the Qing emperors were all formulated by the General Storage Department of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, and the styles, colors and application numbers were accurate. The length, width, size, texture, pattern and color of satin are clearly defined. For example, the "imperial edict" in the archives repeatedly records that the satin woven by the official bureau "must be uniform in longitude and latitude, suitable in width and length, exquisite in pattern and bright in color". If the quality is not up to standard, it must be made up, otherwise it will be punished by flogging. Painters of the Ministry of Interior carefully designed the pictures and sent them to three weavers in Jiangning (Nanjing), Suzhou and Hangzhou for weaving. Jiangning Weaving is responsible for royal colorful brocade, Suzhou Weaving is responsible for silk, brocade, yarn, silk and embroidery, and Hangzhou Weaving is responsible for weaving royal robes, silks and hangsilks. This embroidery was designed by Ruyige's painter. After examination, it is enlarged and colored according to the size of the finished product, and sent to the embroidery factory affiliated to the Ministry of Internal Affairs and Jiangnan Weaving Yamen for production.
The emperor sometimes wears clothes at will, regardless of the code. According to the regulations, the auspicious clothes of the emperor are bright yellow, and the robes of the emperor and others are fragrant (autumn leaves). Although the color of clothes in the code system is different in rank and status, Qianlong clearly shows his preference for fragrance color. In the 19th year of Qianlong (1754), December 29th was New Year's Eve, and Emperor Qianlong was going to retire in front of the statue of his ancestor in the palace. That night, he took a shower and changed clothes as usual. When eunuch Siku held out a bright yellow dragon robe, he ordered to wear a "black fox-faced dragon robe". He also said that this dragon robe "should be taken less at ordinary times, and taken after bathing every year1February 30, and it is an example every year." If others wear clothes that don't conform to their status, it is definitely against the system. The emperor has a golden mouth and jade words, and he does whatever he wants, which is not restricted by the system. In addition, Emperor Qianlong kept saying that the dressing system followed the ancient ceremony, but he appeared in many court paintings wearing Hanfu. He once said that his Hanfu is just a "Danqing game". Palace paintings are mostly realistic works. No matter how high the level is, painters dare not draw a portrait of an emperor. It can be seen that court life is often politicized, which shows that imperial power is supreme.
In the Qing Palace, there are clothing supervisors who store the emperor's royal clothes and costumes, and there is a special clothing warehouse to manage the clothes and crowns commonly used by the emperor on weekdays, and a large group of eunuchs wait on the emperor to change clothes at any time. The emperor changed his clothes many times a day, sometimes two or three times a day.
Clothing system of Qing emperors II.
After the Qing dynasty entered the customs, the living environment of Manchu changed, and the robes and arrow sleeves lost their practical functions. Let's talk about clothing reform again. Several emperors in the early Qing Dynasty believed that the clothing system was of great significance and related to the rise and fall of a nation. This is especially true for ethnic minorities in the Central Plains of Dingding. When Emperor Qianlong arrived, he further realized that the Liao, Jin and Yuan emperors did not follow the national customs, but changed to wear Han and Tang costumes, which led to a long period of exile and extinction, which was deeply frightening. Ancestors' costumes have not changed, but have been constantly restored and improved, and finally a set of laws and regulations have been established.
Therefore, compared with other aspects, Manchu costumes in Qing Dynasty are more preserved. Such as robes, arrow sleeves, etc., were not only preserved, but also designated as the most distinguished costumes symbolizing the country and included in the legal system of the Qing Dynasty. At the grand ceremony, the emperor regarded the gowns worn by the DPRK and its ministers as the royal costumes, which became a veritable royal costume. In particular, the arrow sleeves of Manchu traditional costumes have lost their practical functions after entering the customs, but they have been preserved as "the gift of the monarch and the minister" of Manchu. Arrow sleeves, also known as horseshoe sleeves, are usually rolled into horseshoe shapes; When you meet a salute, quickly turn off the "sleeve head", and then either pay a half-salute or a full-salute. After the Qing Dynasty made Beijing its capital, this kind of etiquette was not limited to Manchu, but also used by Han people as a gift to show their respect for etiquette. Because of this special function, the arrow sleeve is also designed for auspicious clothes and casual clothes in Qing Dynasty. Even for clothes with flat cuffs, several pairs of "sleeves" with good materials should be specially made so that they can be put on the flat sleeves when necessary and taken off after use. This flexible and convenient "sleeve" also has a nice name-"Long Tunkou". The arrow sleeve form of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty remained until the demise of the Qing Dynasty.
While retaining the national tradition, the costumes in Qing Dynasty also absorbed the decorative patterns of emperors' costumes in previous dynasties-twelve chapters (twelve ink lines). Chapter 12 is a pattern with twelve meanings: the sun, the moon, the stars (meaning to shine all over the world), the mountains (lofty, taking its kernel), the dragons (making clouds and rain, taking its change), the China insects (taking its outstanding literary talent), the pink rice (one of the five grains, which can support people), the algae (taking its colorful flowers) and the fire. These decorative patterns symbolize that the emperor is the master of the earth, and his power is "as big as heaven and earth, and everything is contained in it, as bright as the sun and the moon, and in all directions."
In the event of a festive event in the palace, the emperor put on auspicious clothes on the birthday of the emperor, the birthday of the empress dowager and three days before and after the New Year's Day. Jifu, also known as dragon robe, is a full-length robe connected from top to bottom. Its forms are: right button, arrow sleeve and four-opening button; The collar and sleeves are stone blue, and the clothes are bright yellow; The twelve chapters of Kowloon are embroidered all over the body, and the dragon text is divided into three chapters, one for each shoulder and one for the inside. There are colorful clouds between the dragon patterns; Chapter 12 lists the left shoulder as the sun and the right shoulder as the moon. There are squid and dragons on the front, Zong Yi and algae on the bottom, stars, mountains, dragons and China worms on the back, and fire and rice on the bottom. There are dragons on the front and back of the collar, dragons on the left and right, dragons on the left and right lapels, dragons on the sleeves, and eight treasures stand at the bottom. When wearing auspicious clothes, cover the worn clothes and hang the beads and Peggy's belt. The robes of the Qing emperors also had fur, cotton, clips, yarn and other textures, which were suitable for wearing in different seasons throughout the year.
The existing imperial robes in the Forbidden City are embroidered with golden dragons, twelve chapters and colorful clouds, and embroidered with the word double happiness. There is no written record of the dress code in Qing dynasty, which was worn by the emperor when he got married. According to the regulations of the Qing dynasty, the emperor's marriage is called "big marriage". When the emperor ascended the throne when he was a child, he would have a grand wedding. Shunzhi and Kangxi in the early Qing Dynasty, Tongzhi and Guangxu in the late Qing Dynasty were all emperors who got married after they acceded to the throne. It's time to send a letter to the whole world and celebrate the whole country. In the palace, the food, clothing, housing and transportation around the emperor and queen, and the furnishings of the bridal chamber are mainly based on the double happiness of dragons and phoenixes. In the 11th year of Tongzhi (1872) and 14th year of Guangxu (1888), before the marriage of two young emperors in the late Qing Dynasty, Suzhou weaved and embroidered a large number of door curtains and bed curtains. The dragon robe worn at the emperor's wedding is naturally embroidered with the words "double happiness".
The emperor usually wears casual clothes, also called uniforms. The emperor spent the most time in secret service in the palace, such as banquets, listening to politics, paying homage to the dead, holding books and treasures. There are two kinds of uniforms: robes and robes. There are no special rules on color and decoration, but the emperor wants them. However, judging from the color and decoration of the emperor's casual clothes collected in the Forbidden City, there are obvious secrets. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu nobles liked to wear sky blue and royal blue clothes, which meant lightness and brightness. "Green" was homophonic with the country name, so light blue, royal blue and sky blue became the dominant colors in court costumes. The emperor's casual clothes also choose sky blue and sapphire blue. The palace painting "The Reading Portrait of Emperor Kangxi of Qing Dynasty" in the Forbidden City is a portrait of Kangxi's casual clothes, which is a realistic work of young Kangxi dressed in sapphire casual clothes. Even the emperor's dress and auspicious clothes are bright yellow or stone blue with sky blue or moon white. The court advocates blue, and both Qianlong and Jiaqing dynasties had casual clothes of this color. It was still popular until the Daoguang period. The picture of Yi Xi Qiu Ting in the Forbidden City depicts Daoguang dressed in royal blue casual clothes, playing and relaxing with his concubines and children in the imperial garden, enjoying family happiness. In addition, the colors of the emperor's casual clothes are wood red and jujube red, which symbolize the prosperity of the world, gray green with the homonym "Lu", clean and refreshing ginger and light beige.
Hairstyles and Jewelry of Empresses in Qing Dynasty
It can be said that the hairstyle of empresses in the Qing Dynasty is a mysterious thing: it was not until Cixi listened to politics and became famous as a "mother instrument" that the secret was revealed. The "big wings pull", which was popular in the late Qing Dynasty, was recognized by the world as the official hairstyle of harem concubines, and eunuchs, ladies-in-waiting and folk women followed suit and spread to the stage of drama. In fact, the hair styles of empresses in the Qing Dynasty also experienced the same process as the social development in the Qing Dynasty, from low to high, from simplicity to complexity, from simplicity to luxury.
Manchu, who ruled the Qing Dynasty, once lived between the white mountains and black waters in the northeast of China, and the natural environment created their lifestyle of fishing, hunting, farming and picking. In order to move quickly and facilitate riding and shooting, Manchu men and women have the habit of distinguishing long buns. Just put your hair on your head, braid it in a long braid and put it in a bun. At that time, regardless of status or wealth, hairstyles were uniform. Later, after Nurhachi established the State of Jin, he established the system of crown service. In order to wear the crown in the ceremony, the lifelong wife of the imperial concubine loosened the bun on her head to the back of her head. In the early Qing dynasty, the system of crown service was perfected again. In addition to the grand ceremony, the empresses also wear the crown of the dynasty, and on festive festivals, the empresses also wear dice. It is not suitable to wear a hairpin, hanging behind your head. As a result, the empresses combed two long horizontal buns, which looked like two catching buns combed by a little girl and were very stable to wear. Take off the bun, which can also be used as household clothes. Because of this hairstyle, it is divided equally, and everyone is tied. The concubines in the palace called it "little two heads". In the early Qing Dynasty, several empresses and empresses lived frugally. When they wear small heads, they only wear flowers, not jewelry. Xiao er tou has been popular in Qing dynasty for a long time. Until the Qianlong dynasty, Empress Hyo-hyun only wore a straw hat and no gold and silver jewelry. Used to urge the concubines in the palace to be frugal. The characteristic of "Xiaoerhou" is that it is made of my hair and can't wear heavy gold and silver jewelry. The emergence of "two heads" is based on practicality. With the consolidation of the Qing dynasty's rule and economic development, the hair styles of empresses have grown from small to large, from practical to beautiful.
The mid-Qing Dynasty was a golden age, known as the prosperous time of Qianlong. During this period, the mode of production and lifestyle have developed greatly, and jewelry making technology is no exception. In Qing Dynasty, the court had a special position, and precious jewels from all over the country were continuously paid into the Qing court, which greatly stimulated the court empresses' psychology of pursuing exquisite ornaments. However, if you want to wear these gold, silver, jade, pearls and gemstones with the same weight on your head, the "Xiaoerhou" bun will show many shortcomings. For example, the "little two heads" droop, almost touching the ears, and the bun is loose, which will spread when touched. How to wear these beautiful jewels? As a result, a new carding tool-hair rack came into being. The hair rack is twisted with wood and iron wire, and it is shaped like a horizontal spectacle frame. When combing your hair, first fix the head seat, then put it on the hair rack, divide your hair into two pieces and cross it on the hair rack. Insert a long square horizontally in the middle (in the two holes of the hair rack), and then fix the hair end and broken hair firmly with a needle, so that you can catch what kind of jewelry you are wearing. The hair hanging on the ears behind the two handles is combed into a flat shape, and both ends are tied up with hair bands, slightly upturned, shaped like a dovetail. The whole bun looks like a swallow waiting to fly. Empresses and concubines in the Qing Dynasty also combed their hair and wore jewelry according to their age. Young people wear gorgeous jewelry to show their youthful and lively vitality. Old people comb "two ends" and choose noble jewelry, which shows that old women are dignified and steady. The royal woman wears two heads on her head and expensive jewelry, which echoes the high-heeled shoes at her feet. When walking, the upper body is upright, chest is raised and abdomen is closed, which seems to have a sense of rhythm. The head and neck can't swing left and right, and swing back and forth. It established the best image of women's code of conduct for feudal society.
By the end of the Qing Dynasty, concubines of the Qing Dynasty were popular with headdress-style "big wings pull" hairstyle. The "big pull wing" is a hard shell shaped like a sector, about one foot high, in which a hoop and skeleton are made of iron wire according to the size of the head circumference, and then a tire is made of cloth. Covered with green satin and green flannel, make a fixed purely decorative head. Wear it on your head when you need it, and take it off and put it aside when you don't use it. It can beautify hair and lose hair freely, which can be described as the best of both worlds. "Qing Gong Ci" says: "The phoenix and the bun stand in two lines, while the pearl and the hairpin protect the cricket. The city is more than a foot high, and the fork divides the dovetail bottom equally. " It is said that the big pull wing replaces the two heads combed with a hair rack, which is the original creation of Cixi and is related to her position in the Qing Palace. Her position is different from that of the Empress Dowager and Empress in Qing Dynasty. Besides, she lives in luxury and spends a lot of money. Food, clothing, housing and transportation must meet her standard of pursuing "beauty".
Empresses' hairstyles in Qing Dynasty, from simple "small head" to "fork head" and then to "big wings", all have obvious Manchu traditional characteristics, and headdresses decorated with these hairstyles also have their unique national style. The following are described separately: flat square: flat square is the main jewelry for Manchu women to comb "two heads". In Heyun's book "The Life of Nobles in the Late Qing Dynasty", it was said that "Manchu women generally comb" two heads "with simple styles, all of which are on the" flat side "of jade or jade with real hair." A flat square is generally 32-35cm long and 4cm wide. 0.2-0.3 cm thick. It is ruler-shaped, with a semicircle at one end and a scroll at the other. Comb "fork head" or "big pull wing" both play the role of transverse connection. It was popular in Han dynasty that men wore crowns, ornaments and crowns for decoration. The crown, ornament and crown are connected by a 12 inch long hairpin, which runs from left to right.
The flat square of Manchu women in Qing Dynasty is similar to the long hairpin in Han Dynasty in function and size. It's just different people. It can be inferred that the rectangle may have evolved from the long hairpin. But there are also rectangular ones and small ones. At the funeral, the wife was her husband Dai Xiao. Put down the "two heads" and insert a small flat bone about 3 inches into the head. If the daughter-in-law is Dai Xiao, a small square of silver or copper should be inserted to show the difference.
Empresses and concubines in the Qing Dynasty wore mostly flat materials, including gold, silver, jade, jadeite, tortoise shell, carnation, sandalwood, pearls and precious stones. Its exquisite workmanship is rare in the world. For example, gold silk dipped in jade, silver inlaid with precious stones, golden flower jade carving, and so on. On a narrow plane with a square width of only one inch, exquisite and realistic patterns such as flowers, birds, fish, insects, pavilions, melons and fruits can be made. Empresses and concubines wear a flat square, deliberately revealing floral decorations at both ends, and some even hang a string of green spikes in the shaft hole at one end of the flat square, so that they can walk in moderation and add dignified and beautiful manners to women.
Hairpins: Hairpins are used very early. In Yangshao culture of Neolithic Age, a conical bone hairpin was unearthed. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Jin Chai and Yu Chai appeared one after another, becoming the symbol of the aristocratic status of slave owners. The emperor decorated the jade hairpin and the queen decorated the gold hairpin. Secondly, ivory hairpin and hawksbill hairpin were worn by courtiers. Judging from the hairpin ornaments left by empresses in Qing Dynasty, there are two kinds: practical and decorative. Practical hair clips are mostly plain and long, and the texture is mostly gold, silver, copper and so on. , plays a role in fixing the head shape when rolling the bun. Decorative hair clips are made of precious materials with exquisite patterns, which are specially used to comb the bun and wear it in an obvious position. Empresses and concubines in the Qing Dynasty mostly used gold, jade beads and precious stones as materials, with exquisite craftsmanship and exquisite shapes. For example, the existing "White's first hand needle" in the Forbidden City is the word "hand" carved with a piece of pure white suet jade, and the needle is the last stroke of the word "hand". The likewise carved jade plate sausage hairpin and red coral bat hairpin are both excellent works in hairpin decoration. Golden hairpin, magpie plum hairpin and five bats longevity hairpin are famous for their exquisite carving. Furthermore, the heads of various pearls and gems embedded in gold and silver bases are mostly composed of a head and a needle seat. The head of the hairpin is made of copper wires with different thicknesses, and then a hole is drilled at the bottom of the flower core made of precious stones. The thin copper wire is wound into a spring with great elasticity, which moves gently and keeps swinging. Make birds' eyes, tentacles, plant beards and branches lifelike. Wearing it on women's heads undoubtedly adds a bit of charm.
Touhua: Touhua is the main jewelry for the Empress Dowager Cixi to comb the "fork head" and "big wing" bun, and it is mostly inlaid with jewelry. For example, the ruby beaded flowers in the Forbidden City, the feathered emeralds inlaid with pearls (pine, bamboo and plum), the sapphire dragonfly flowers, the overlapping ruby flowers, the golden silk twisted Ssangyong playing beaded flowers, and the double-money beaded flowers inlaid with gold are all famous for their exquisite production and vivid images. Empresses and concubines in the Qing Dynasty liked to wear headdresses. Because of its large flowers and large coverage, it is magnificent to wear between the "two ends". Empresses and concubines in Qing Dynasty wore headdresses to beautify their hair bun and show their status. In many portraits and photos of Cixi, we can see her towering bun and wearing a big headdress. Cixi not only likes jewelry headdresses, but also likes to wear large velvet flowers. This is because "velvet flower" in Chinese is similar to "splendor" in Manchu, and wearing velvet flower means splendor. Therefore, concubines in the Qing Dynasty wore velvet headdresses all the year round for good luck. In particular, seasonal velvet flowers should be worn in seasonal order: beginning of spring wears velvet spring flag, Qingming wears velvet willow bud, Duanyang wears velvet wormwood, Mid-Autumn Festival wears velvet chrysanthemum, Chongyang wears velvet dogwood, and winter solstice wears gourd velvet. ...
Edge: 1904, American female painter Carl painted several oil paintings for Cixi. One of them wore a shroud embroidered with wisteria on a yellow background, with "big wings" on his head, and many pearls and jewels were inserted on it: green hairpin, phoenix hairpin, gold square, jewel headdress, pearl headband and drooping string. The tassels and treads in the eight ancient jewelry are very imaginative. "Those who step and shake, with gold beads and jade, hang on the hairpin and step and shake it." Bu Yao began to appear in the sacrificial jewelry of concubines in the harem in the Han Dynasty. After the Han Dynasty, Buyao gradually became popular among the people and became one of women's favorite jewelry. Empresses and concubines in the Qing dynasty called it the step of shaking tassels. There are various forms, such as dragon and phoenix head, sparrow head, butterfly, mandarin duck, bat and so on. , or beads hanging on your mouth or head. Beads also have one layer, two layers and three layers. A piece of "Mi Zhu double happiness tassel" on display in the Treasure Hall of the Forbidden City was worn by the queen during the wedding of Emperor Tongzhi. At the top of the tassel is a big bat with delicate feathers. It has two small gold collars in its mouth and a cloud with delicate feathers attached to it. There are three strings of long pearls under the cloud. Each string of pearls is divided into three layers in parallel, and the layers are separated by double happiness carved by red coral. Ruby is used as a falling angle at the bottom of beads. The whole tassel is 28 cm long and is worn at the top of the bun, with beads hanging down shoulder-length. This is the longest tassel. Most of the tassels collected in Qing Palace are worn by empresses, and the number of beads in Phoenix is the largest. For example, the confrontation between a phoenix in Yi Long is called "Dragon and Phoenix Becoming Auspicious", and the confrontation between two phoenixes is called "Qi Fei in Cai Feng". Peony flowers and phoenixes are "Feng Dan facing the sun" and "Phoenix wearing peony" and so on. The emperor claimed to be the real dragon emperor, and the queen was the phoenix, the king of birds. Feudal emperors wanted to have many children and grandchildren, so there were many themes of phoenix and phoenix hatching eggs in the headdress of the queen.
In addition, the headdress of the queen also includes Manchu-style jewelry, such as fun, knotting flowers, knotting needles, old crow gourd ladle, ear-digging spoon and so on. It was used by empresses of the Qing Dynasty to fix and decorate the bun. With the integration of Manchu and Han customs and costume culture, the headdresses of empresses in Qing Dynasty were gradually absorbed by people and evolved into many headdresses loved by women, which have far-reaching influence so far.
Palace night duty rules
Just after eight o'clock in the evening, the flag of Xitiao rang, and eunuchs who had no errands left the palace one after another. Lock the door with a bang and hand in the key to the lounge. If you need to ask for a key under special circumstances, you must go through the front desk and record it in the diary file for timely investigation.
At about 7: 30, the eunuch will go to the eunuch in charge to focus on the night shift and assign tasks after the roll call. The monitor walked into the courtyard of the emperor's bedroom. At this time, the hall door has been locked, and the north and south are forbidden to pass. Two eunuchs are on duty at the door, and two eunuchs patrol the north gate. A eunuch patrolled the east and west halls and the porch of the bedroom.
There are usually five to seven people working at night in the dormitory, including a foreman. Outside the palace, the people inside don't care At nine o'clock sharp, one door in the main hall of the dormitory was closed, and the other door was ready to fetch water. There are five bedrooms, namely West Room (the emperor's bedroom), West Room (the quiet room of Buddhist temple), nave (for worship), East Room and East Room. The night watchman is assigned like this:
1. Two people at the entrance of the main hall, outside the bamboo curtain in summer and inside the cotton curtain in winter. As long as the door is closed, no matter how high the position, no one is allowed to enter.
Second, there is a man outside the west gate, who is responsible for everything in the bedroom, Ming and San rooms, mainly paying attention to the movement of the emperor's bedroom, and is the deputy of the night watchman in the bedroom.
Three, one person outside the bedroom, responsible for the quiet room and a row of windows in the south.
Fourth, the dormitory is alone. This man is very important. His name is Shi Shi. He is the closest attendant trusted by the emperor, that is, the eunuch in charge of power. All officials are also afraid of three points. Because he has spent the longest time with the emperor, he can chat with the emperor casually. He is also the night watchman in the bedroom. The whole bedroom depends on his eyes. Even if you don't understand a look, you will inevitably get hit by the board the next day. You can't cry yet, just put your pen straight, or you won't get out alive. Serving in the bedroom is also the hardest job. Unlike people in the outhouse, he has a felt pad and can lie against the wall for a while at night. He has no mat (mat is not allowed in the bedroom), so he can only sit on the ground two feet away from the emperor on the western wall, facing the bed and listening to the emperor sleep with his ears.