No woman can be so indifferent to her success in society. Before this, the door of "social world" has never been opened to any female fashion designer, no matter how talented they are. Those creative ladies are labeled as "seamstresses" at most (the word "tailor" used to refer only to men). Then, all of a sudden, everything changed because of Chanel. But everything that happened to her seemed natural, just as natural as she triggered a revolution in fashion. Since 1925, Chanel's style has gradually developed and expanded, and finally represents the whole modern concept.
1926, the French edition of Vogue magazine published this illustration with the following comment: "This is simply a' Ford' Chanel." This refers to the mass production of Chanel clothes like Ford cars. Although the male reporter launched a malicious attack and lamented that Chanel's clothes had many restrictions-no breasts, no hips and no waist-her' Ford' clothes were still as popular as expected. Opponents can only ridicule: "Women's fashion in the 20th century will be purified to' nothing'. These famous "little black dresses" symbolize the success of rebellious culture and mark the end of the era when men dominate women's dress. With the popularity of Chanel's simple style, women can show their personality.
In the same year, the American version of Vogue predicted that a black dress designed by Chanel would be favored by all women and become a uniform-like dress. This skirt is made of crepe, and the sleeves are very long and very docile. But is it really reasonable for a large group of women to wear the same skirt? Then, in order to show readers that this great success may be attributed to simple styles of clothes without distinctive personality, the magazine took a risk and made a comparison: will anyone hesitate to buy a car because they are no different from similar brands? On the contrary, its similarity with other similar brands is precisely the guarantee of its quality. Therefore, the magazine concluded: "This is a' Ford style' Chanel fashion." Therefore, fashion has also entered the era of standardization. Facts have proved that this revolution is irreversible.
The picture shows two Chanel dresses that appeared in Paris and were later published in the French edition of Vogue in 1927 1 month. One is a Barry gauze skirt, and the other is a black satin skirt. They inspired Paul Poire to write a famous comment: "What did Chanel create? Luxury disaster! " He went on to write, "In the past, women's bodies were extremely beautiful, just like a brave ship. But now, they are all like malnourished telegraphs. "
Douglas Pohland's illustrations for the French edition of Vogue. There are more black clothes, more Chanel styles, and two new things are more exciting: Moroccan crepe and bell hat. Authorities who admire the old style, such as Sam, further sarcastically said, "Those hats are simply soft filters for tea sets. The women grabbed the brim with both hands and stuffed their heads in ... everything disappeared and was swallowed into elastic pockets-except nose, hair, forehead, ears and cheeks. From this point of view, they might as well pull out their shoes directly. "
1928, the successful Chanel opened a new store on the third floor of No.31Kangbang Street. Until her death, the house still existed. In addition to the sense of space created by the mirror, the dominant style is complete simplicity and restraint. The ground floor of this building is a grand high-end custom fashion exhibition salon. After conception and construction, this room seems to have no walls, and its mirror wall protection creates an infinite sense of space. Simple basin chandeliers glow and then are reflected by countless mirrors. In short, Chanel's Grand Salon became a symbol of the transition from the "Jazz Age" to the 1930s.
Chanel is at home. The success of his career made Gabriel have a residence on the ground floor of a luxury hotel called "Private Hotel" in the suburb of San Honore.
1925 In March, Gabrielle Chanel and the Duke of Westminster participated in the national horse race. Ladies in the upper class follow Chanel's example and wear thick hand-woven beige stockings.
Eton College-Country House of the Duke of Westminster. In the 1930s, Chanel saw Eton College as such.
From 1926 to 193 1 year, when she fell in love with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel fell in love with the English style. Whether at Eton College or on the Duke's yacht, she used everything that fascinated her and made these new discoveries the theme of her fashion collection.
1928, while fishing salmon with Duke, Chanel and another guest, Willa Bate, an Englishman, robbed the owner of his clothes: jacket, sweater, pants and shoes. This cross-border dress caused a lot of ridicule, but it also exposed Chanel to Scottish tweed.
After returning to Paris, Chanel turned the vest with black sleeves into fashion. The front of the vest is decorated with duke stripes, which are worn by servants of Eton College when they do housework in the morning. Nowadays, elegant ladies are also beginning to wear berets. Sailors on the yacht Cutty Sark of Westminster wore this kind of hat that pulled up to their eyelids.
Gabrielle Chanel in British times. No woman in British upper class dares to use evening dress jewelry for casual wear like her: a pearl necklace hangs like a waterfall on the chest of a uniform vest, while a beret is inlaid with clusters of jewels. It can be said that Chanel's clothing is permeated with a luxury style, but it is also an extremely restrained luxury style. In her life, Gabrielle Chanel thought that making simple things look unfair was the only purpose of luxury.
From 1932 to 1937, two factors had a great influence on Chanel's life. One is the warm friendship between her and Jean Cocqueteaux based on the creative level, and the other is her constantly improving creative ability. At this time, this female designer has become famous all over the world.
Two Chanel evening dresses created by Cocteau from 1932 to 1935.
1929 An unexpected encounter happened. In Monaco, Archduke Dimitri, a descendant of the czar, arranged for Chanel to meet with Hollywood dictator Sam godwin. Godwin decided to persuade Gabrielle Chanel to join the film industry. Besides, he hopes that she can come to Hollywood twice a year. The contract he drafted gave her an incredible salary: one million dollars. Because this movie star not only needs this French couture designer to design clothes for Hollywood celebrities, but also hopes that she can change their tastes. That's just an imperial edict: from now on, those charming actors can only wear Chanel clothes in private or on the screen. However, will the stars obey? After a long negotiation, Chanel finally agreed to go to California as godwin wished. It can be said that she was very successful during her stay in the film industry.
193 1 year Chanel. From Garbo to Rahim, from Dietrich to Chuk, everyone who associates with her feels honored. The local media called her "the smartest person in fashion history".
However, despite the excellent response, Chanel left the film center and never came back. She can't stand the feeling of being a star. Stars refuse to accept the style imposed on them, even Chanel style. Although such a mess can only be cleaned up by Sam godwin, he never asked for the money he invested.
1932 1 1 month, a rare solo exhibition opened in Raqqa, Paris. This is an exhibition of Chanel, in the designer's own room on the first floor of Pierre Weil Hotel in the suburb of San Honore. Many wax busts brought from barbershops are hung with jewels designed by her. In order to be perfect, each bust is closely watched by guards equipped with revolvers. Therefore, these jewels are protected like diamonds.
Now, this woman who once advised women to wear fake jewelry has begun to contact the real thing. Facts soon proved that the real innovation lies in the form and adaptability of these jewels-they can be divided into two or four jewels.
This is a very baroque jewelry, suitable for the bangs headdress belt of "Pharaoh's wife".
The main exhibit of this exhibition: one of a pair of bracelets. This bracelet has an extra clasp, which can be turned into a necklace when untied.
Chanel did not choose the design of the necklace, but presented a comet-like jewelry.
1928, 45-year-old Chanel came to Rockbrun Heights and gave herself a gift-a house facing the Mediterranean with beautiful olive groves. This is a summer villa, very royal, and it is the first holiday villa she has.
Moran once relayed Chanel's words: "I don't let people flatter my vanity, and I am used to not humiliating them (I have other ways to retaliate, I admit, I can find out). But, as I said, because they are still useful, they will spread many things in my name near Paris. As for myself, I go to bed early every day. Thanks to them, I can keep up with everything. Just like Proust stays at home, he knows all about the topics on the table the night before. " Similarly, "because I seldom go out, it is very important to know people's movements, especially when it comes to my clothes." I have developed a habit, a brand-new habit, that is, I should not only let the dignitaries gather around me, but also keep in touch with the society. Nobles from Russia, Italy and France, as well as ladies from British upper class, all came to Kangbang Street to help me. Chanel went on to say, "I never invite idlers." "So, obviously what will happen. At first glance, those dignitaries seem to be parasites, all fed by an ordinary woman. Besides, they don't seem to care about her social history at all. The daughter of a Saiwen vendor now lives a life similar to theirs by the children of nobles. However, that kind of life is their birthright, but not hers.
Chanel is wearing a sea soul shirt and a sweatshirt. In 1929, it is obvious that wearing casual pants is only a freedom that rich women can enjoy. However, the taboo was broken. Once the leisure era and the trend of standardized clothing came, Chanel style swept the streets and made thousands of women put on pants. The era of jeans' popularity and androgynous clothing style is not far away. Now some people who prefer work clothes think their dress tastes are very innovative. As we all know, Chanel has long anticipated this: pullovers worn by sailors, T-shirts worn by dockers and traditional white coats worn by painters will all become a fashion. In front of everyone, she turned the clothes of the lower class into fashion.
The style of the whole jazz era (that is, the "folk era") was followed by Chanel: they all preferred black. However, this situation changed in 1926. People don't wear skirts anymore. Fashion has its own set of adjustment methods, which will change every ten years. From 1926 to 1929, clothing became longer and more attractive. In the increasingly gloomy new era, fashion is developing towards white.
"I was the first person to dye the carpet beige. It reminds me of the trampled land. Soon, the furniture turned beige. It was not until the interior design master shouted that I couldn't stand it anymore that I said,' Try forging in vain.' As a result, white chess swept everything ... "In addition, Chanel also noticed that the search for" innocence and white forging "also brought the revival of the Far East style: white lacquerware on the wall, white antique storage cabinets in China and white flowers in vases.
The Chanel skirt in the picture is made of white cicada yarn. Steichen photographed the French version of Vogue in 1930.
The picture shows the design of Chanel in 1935. Here, she uses small round lamps, sheets and tulle. Cecil beaton writes for the French edition of Vogue.
There is no doubt that Chanel sometimes inadvertently reveals the elegant and charming appearance of female singers in "performance cafes". When she appeared at the "Waltz Ball" in a costume made for Valentine Hugo, people couldn't help but think of her young appearance when she sang the title song when she hosted "Mulan's Army" in a cheap cafe.
1May, 936: The People's Front organized a strike movement to pay tribute to the people who died in the Paris Commune Movement. Chanel employees also went on strike, and those women wanted to defend their rights by going on strike. In a country where wages are extremely high and jobs are extremely unstable, this behavior angered Chanel. Chanel could not tolerate this behavior, not only turned a deaf ear to the most reasonable requirements such as employment contract, weekly salary, limited working hours and paid holidays, but also fired 300 employees who refused to give in. The two sides were deadlocked for a long time until the consultants said that if an agreement was not reached as soon as possible, the autumn collection would be ruined, and Miss Chanel finally gave in. Undoubtedly, it is extremely rare that Gabrielle Chanel failed to hide her extreme panic during her long career. Rip is dead, and all she has left is her career. She is the only one left in this world, facing the rebellion alone.
One day, Gabrielle Chanel went to a friend's house in Fuxi Street for dinner in this turmoil that has turned into a revolution. The driver drove her there in a Rolls Royce. The seat cushion of this car is extremely exquisite suede. The driver parked his car beside the beautiful avenue, got off to drink red wine and have dinner. Unfortunately, he forgot to lock the door. So, a rebellious passerby let his dog shit in the back seat. Although Chanel was very angry when she found out, she immediately began to think about how to adapt fashion to the new era.
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