Simply speaking, Cartier's watch products are completely the so-called "two-line brand". Products can be evaluated from two aspects: open line and dark line. Open line is the appearance of the product. Cartier's famous watch series: Sandoz, Tank, Blue Balloon, Pasha ... all have domineering designs that can be recognized at a glance ten meters away. The black line is the grade. Almost all different grades of Cartier use the above-mentioned famous appearance. At present, the lowest level is Solo, and the highest level is Haute Horlogerie. The grade difference is 20 thousand and 10 million (the currency is RMB, but it may all be "tank" face). All comments about "Cartier movement in general" are mostly aimed at the entry level of Solo, and the public knows little about Cartier's high-end products.
I want to give an interesting example about hedging. In the 1990s, Cartier's top-grade wristwatch product was the "Paris Private Collection (CPCP)" series, which included Santos, Tanks and Pasha (the blue balloon was not born at that time). In 2009, Cartier announced that the private collection series in Paris was discontinued and replaced by the high-end watch series. No one noticed at that time, but in recent years, the auction market price of Cartier CPCP watches with inventory level has been rising all the way, and people always cherish what they have lost, knowing it later.
Cartier is the first brand to enter watch manufacturing, and its tanks, Santos and even a series of famous brands such as blue balloons, which are very popular in recent years, are full of fans.
From the practical point of view of daily life, Cartier watches are especially suitable for matching with other jewelry and clothing, providing an excellent choice for fashionistas. If you care about its collection value, then Cartier's limited edition and artistic style are also very worthwhile. Cartier presents many rare art models every year, which are made by various techniques such as jewelry inlay, perspective, golden carving and enamel, and are especially popular with buyers.
And its classic product series, such as ancient tanks, also have a considerable number of fans in the second-hand market and are frequent visitors to auction houses. Over the years, a series of Cartier once belonged to celebrities, such as Jacqueline's Cartier and President Kennedy's wife, have appeared in the auction market, which has made Cartier's influence more and more important, which has also led to a higher and higher second-hand market for Cartier watches.
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In 2007, Richemont SA, Cartier's parent company, acquired the production facilities of Roger Dubuis's manufacturing plant in Geneva, which specializes in producing Geneva-stamped movements. Cartier soon took over a studio in the Dubs factory, where 65,438+00 watchmakers were arranged. The tourbillon movement 9452 MC they produced there is based on Roger Dubuis's design. Look: Cartier in Paris has a wristwatch production facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Fribourg, Switzerland, and has been transformed into a Geneva Seal brand. Technically, this is legal. But the question is: Is professional knowledge really Cartier's? Outside the balloon is Dolby's. Two years later, it is obvious that this is indeed Cartier. Some people think this is a gimmick, but it is actually a pioneering work. At the opening ceremony, it was announced that Cartier has become a real manufacturer of mechanical movements and has strong ambitions in high-end watches.
In the past two years, Cartier has rushed into the high-mechanical men's wear market at a speed similar to Usain Bolt. It introduced 17 brand-new men's mechanical watches and 9 brand-new manufacturing movements (including another Geneva high-quality imprint movement), at least 6 of which were conceived, developed, prototyped and produced in its large watchmaking factory in Lassau. One of them is the new basic automatic movement 1904 MC (made in Cartier), which is the first movement produced by Cartier. It was launched this year in Cartier's new men's watch series, namely Calibre de Cartier. 1904 MC movement will become the basic movement of Cartier automatic movements (including complex movements) in the future.
Cartier ID One was launched on 20 12, 165438 10. It is a conceptual watch developed by Cartier engineers, which may be the first watch in the world that needs no adjustment. Both inside and outside the watch are equipped with innovative mechanical devices and materials, such as hairspring made of Zerodur, balance wheel made of carbon crystal, pendulum plated with amorphous diamond-like carbon and niobium-titanium case. At present, the R&D department in the manufacturing industry is attracting the attention of engineers, and promises to provide new progress in advanced watches for future Cartier watches. (Cartier Concept: A Watch Without Adjustment10-February 20 10 65438+. All these developments have surprised, impressed and puzzled watch collectors and fans. They think Cartier is a miracle of making jewelry, scarves and handbags for women, not watches for themselves.
The top management of Cartier Paris and La Chaux-de-Fonds said that what was happening was a new chapter in the company's long and brilliant watch history. Cartier executives admit that Cartier is now more like a women's collection: it is the world's top jewelry and watch manufacturer. For example, in the United States, women's watches account for two-thirds of Cartier watch sales. Cartier executives also admit that they joined luxury mechanical watches a little late, so they didn't bring much high-end credibility in this regard. However, they pointed out that they made mechanical movements in order to maintain their identity with Cartier as MAISON (meaning "house" in French). Cartier craftsmen and women have produced their own luxury goods in history, and they have a tradition of being pioneers of men's watches, with icons such as Santos and Tank.
Cartier's mechanical transformation is not as sudden as it seems. Bernard Fornas, CEO of Cartier International, said that his new men's mechanical watch has been under development since 2005. This reflects the strategy adopted by Fornas Watch, which transforms the company from a mechanical watch assembler relying on the network of movement and parts suppliers to a movement and parts supplier. Vertical integrated manufacturing. For this reason, Cartier has quietly developed her knowledge of mechanical watches in the past six years. Our mission is not only to make Cartier a watch manufacturing base for Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lan Zhi, Earl and other sister companies of Richemont Group. Its movement reflects Cartier's image as a model of creativity and design. This has led to great changes in Cartier's watchmaking business. A year after Fornas became CEO in 2002, Cartier decided to start manufacturing his own mechanical movement. As it is now, Cartier produces hundreds of thousands of watches every year (the company does not disclose the specific figures). Vertical integration has been used in the production of quartz watches, which is the legacy of Cartier becoming a powerful quartz watch country in the 1960s and 1970s. In the1990s, 80% of Cartier's output came from Timely. Almost all the watch movements (90%) are made in China, and the watch case and bracelet are also made by this company.
However, like many Swiss watch companies, their mechanical watches are assembly machines, and they rely on the network of external suppliers to manufacture mechanical movements. Cartier's network of movement suppliers works well. 10 years ago, Cartier had 15 years experience, and Cartier was the manufacturing director. The factory can obtain mechanical movements from suppliers within Richemont Group (such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget) and some famous external suppliers (such as Girard-Perregaux). However, in 2004, with the surge in demand for mechanical watches, accounting for 40% of Cartier's total output (up to 50% at present), the problem of movement surfaced. There are other problems, such as the delay in delivery of the movement, and the fear of obtaining spare parts from the movement supplier for future watch maintenance. The most important thing is what Cartier executives call "legitimacy". "You can't ask others to make products for you," said Carole Forestier-Kasapi, head of movement development at Cartier Watchmaking Factory. "At some point, you have to do it yourself." As Fornas said, "No one can be better than himself." It is becoming clear that Cartier must become the master of the fate of its mechanical watch.
They achieved this goal through the so-called "think tank" project (Cute play of Cartier's most famous watch model tank released by19). Fornas approved this project in 2004. Complete three years. The "think tank" project not only brought necessary skills to the internal mechanical watchmaking industry, but also completely reorganized Cartier's watch production business and concentrated it on the glass building opened in La Saud, Jura Mountain, Switzerland in 2000. The slogan of the project is "one team, one place". Our goal is to make the watch employees and operators scattered outside Switzerland 100 miles within 1000 feet. For example, Cartier produces watch bracelets in 12 different locations in this area. In June 2007, Cartier established one of the largest comprehensive watch production facilities in Switzerland. The building has been expanded to 40,000 square meters and has 900 employees in 37 countries/regions, covering all fields from watchmaking research and development to after-sales service. Manufacturing is organized in a safe area, and all skills need to be concentrated to produce specific watches or sports to promote communication between departments. Cartier's vertical integration has been demonstrated in the new manufacturing. It manufactures timely movement, mechanical movement and movement components (plates, bridges, etc.). ), watchcases (including diamond-encrusted watchcases of jewelry watches), bracelets, belts, pointers (accounting for 33% of the total), all mineral crystals and dials (including all enamel dials).
As part of the reorganization, Cartier hired and trained the talents needed to manufacture mechanical watches for its high-end watch series from outside. It has established a sports development department around the respected French-born Forrest Kasapi. Before joining Cartier 10, Forrest Kasapi cooperated with Giulio Papi of Airbno &Papi. Cartier's R&D department has 12 engineers. In the second half of the past decade, these people were arranged in the new studio of Cartier watchmaking factory to engage in the research and development of mechanical watches, and developed Cartier's first internal automatic movement, a series of new mechanical movements and a concept table. The result is a series of new Cartier men's watches, which are famous for their creative design and original technology. Take two watches containing Cartier's first mechanical movement as an example. These movements are entirely made and produced internally. They are Santos 100 Skeleton and Rotonde de Cartier central chronograph watches launched last year. Santos 100 Skeleton Skull Watch features a movement designed by Frais Kasapi to display time. Her patented design has shaped the bridge of the movement, forming Roman numerals in XII, III, VI and IX positions. The 96 1 1 MC movement is square, which complements the Santos palladium case. Another novelty is that the fine-tuning pointer is designed into a Cartier-style "C" shape. Cartier designers freely use the "C" pattern in all parts of the watch. Another example: Cartier's new Calibre de Cartier flying tourbillon watch (US$ 65,438+RMB 3,000) is a C-shaped tourbillon watch stand, which is one of the two new Geneva sealed watches launched this year, with five watches in total.
You see, the difference between Cartier and excellent design focuses on the correct logo. MAISON's great Rotonde's Cartier central timer invented its own way in Cartier, showing the elapsed time by making the front and center of the timer. A watch has two dials. The hour hand and minute hand are located at the bottom, which are located below the top timer display. Undoubtedly, Cartier's movement construction team had to make some technical adjustments to support the unconventional design of watches. Forestier-Kasapi said: "We chose a very primitive display for the central chronograph. But we can still see the most advanced timers. " The 9907 MC movement of the central chronograph uses the guide post wheel to control the start, stop and reset functions, instead of the cam system used in most timepieces. In addition, Cartier uses a vertical coupling system instead of the usual horizontal release system in the chronograph. Cartier said that this reduced the energy consumption of the timer function and maintained excellent accuracy.
Cartier's reputation as a design company will certainly add a lot of color to its advanced watchmaking methods. "The main idea is innovation, not complexity," said Forestier-Kasapi. "Technology serves aesthetics and creativity. Our goal is not to be the most complicated watch in the world, nor to have the most complicated watch. Most importantly, creativity is a tool of technology. " In 20 10, Foretstier Kasapi was her favorite watch. Roton de Cartier astro tourbillon (please refer to the cover of this issue) shows exactly what she said: extraordinary technical achievements in serving unconventional design. Its notable feature is that tourbillon doubles as a second hand, rotating around the turntable once every minute. Tourbillon's eccentricity, the arrow-shaped balance frame points to the second hand. Manual winding movement 945 1 MC, which is another kind of 100% internal manufacturing Cartier said that the movement has several unique functions. First of all, the tourbillon movement is located in the center of the movement and has a special axis of rotation. From the two clockwork of the movement to the display of hours and minutes, a completely different gear train design is needed. Secondly, the balance bar and the escape wheel bar are not on the same axis of rotation as the carriage, but are located on the side of the carriage and aligned in a straight line with the axis of rotation. Finally, tourbillon is located above the movement between the two dials, instead of being integrated into the movement like the classic tourbillon. Looking for Cartier and continuing to create novel mechanical devices.
Cartier MC 1904 movement is as important to the legitimacy of Cartier watchmaking as the homemade mechanical miracle. This is the first internal automatic movement. The number of movements is very important. This is the year when Louis Cartier created the first men's Cartier watch. He did this at the request of his friend Alberto Santos dumont, a Brazilian pilot. He needs a watch instead of a pocket watch when flying because his hands are on the control panel. The Santos watch series later launched by Cartier is still an iconic men's watch. Cartier made it clear that, like other new movements, this watch is designed to help Cartier men's watches return to the market.
This is why Cartier's new series of movements are equipped with 1904 MC large movements. Different from Ballon Bleu series launched in 2007, its movement has many sizes, which are suitable for women's watches and men's watches, while Caliber1904 MC only adopts112Lignes size. Same as above, Cartier movement series; This is a 42 mm diameter men's watch. The new self-winding movement is a sturdy movement with two clockwork boxes, which can provide enough power for Cartier de Cartier watches and other complex functions that Cartier plans to add. This is the basic automatic movement that Cartier will develop in the future. The movement has a fine-tuning system, which can be adjusted by the C-shaped pointer and the second hand system to accurately set the time. Model 1904 movement MC is another important step of Cartier vertical integration.
Calibre de Cartier watches are equipped with a second hand dial and a calendar window, and are made of rose gold, fine steel or fine steel and rose gold. It has a smooth inclined bezel and a 120-inch groove ring at the edge of the dial. As Emmanuel Perrin, CEO of Cartier North America, said, Cartier executives regard this series as a means to "re-interact with male customers". "Recently, we have paid more attention to women," Palin said. "This is not to say that we don't know how to make an excellent men's watch. Look at Tank or Santos. It's still an ideal iconic watch. For men, Cartier is regarded as an innovator and craftsman, not just a woman's jewelry. There is no doubt that this is a woman's jewelry. But this is not the only handicraft we have in the House of Representatives. We will handle high-end machinery with the same details as high-end jewelry. "
After reading these, you will naturally get the answer, whether Cartier is worth buying.
If you are a woman, I suggest buying Cartier, pure gold and blue balloons. If you are a man, I suggest buying a big plate, Cartier.
Cartier is a top brand. If you like this brand or a series, and you are not short of money, wear it yourself. Wearing it will enhance your status! If you want to collect or add value, it is not recommended to buy! Because Cartier's movement is really pleasing! Personally, I feel that Cartier sells brands!
Cartier's redesigned Rotonde calendar has a round case with a diameter of only 40mm, which makes the watch more wearable and beautiful.
The month indicator moves from the outer circumference of the dial to the window at 6 o'clock in the center of the dial. At 12, two large holes indicate the date, while the hammer-shaped red tip at the outer edge of the dial indicates the day of the week.
Self-winding movement 9908 MC provides a complex calendar function by installing a mechanical device on the movement board of 1904 MC, which is a basic calendar movement, that is, a mechanism that must be manually adjusted at the end of each month. For the calendar, manual intervention is only needed once a year: the date is changed from February 28th or 29th to March 1. Calibre 9908 MC vibrates 28800 times per hour, and the power is stored for 48 hours.
The different displays of all calendars (day, month and month) can be managed by rapidly rotating the winding crown, thus avoiding any corrector on the watch case. In line with Cartier's design specifications, sword-shaped blue steel hands and large Roman numerals strongly express the dial, and its center is decorated with elegant twisted rope patterns. Rotonde de Cartier calendar watches come in two versions: rose gold with a silver dial and platinum with a gray dial.
Cartier is a famous jewelry supplier. In recent years, like some luxury goods companies (such as Gucci), it is also making watches. These watches, including Cartier, rely on the fame of their own jewelry. The watch does not have its own movement, and it is equipped with an ETA unified movement. It's just a design. Cartier belongs to Mo Lifeng Group. As for the value, it depends on the buyer's own preferences and personal economic ability. However, Cartier watches are well designed and have a strong brand recognition (you can see them at a glance). However, at present, there are many Cartier high imitation tables, so we should pay attention to the differences. As for hedging, that's impossible. Once you buy any watch, even if you don't wear it, the price will be reduced by at least two thirds.
Be sure to go to the store and issue an invoice, otherwise, one to one is fake! It's all pits.
Brand: Cartier Cartier
Type: men's watches
Case: 3 16 fine steel (excellent workmanship)
Strap: imported calf leather /3 16 fine steel (two options)
Movement: fully automatic mechanical movement (stable travel time)
Material: advanced reinforced coating mirror
Size: diameter 46mm, thickness 13mm.
Cartier is a top brand. If you like this brand or a series, and you are not short of money, wear it yourself. Wearing it will enhance your status! If you want to collect or add value, it is not recommended to buy! Because Cartier's movement is really pleasing! Personally, I feel that Cartier sells brands!