Leather head: the part that the club head touches when hitting the cue ball. It is made of high-quality leather.
Front corner: plastic or metal material that connects the wood and leather head of the front part to protect the club.
Front part: The thin part of the front part of billiards club, made of hardwood such as maple.
Upper ring: buffer the impact force of the contact surface with the middle wheel to prevent the front section of wood from cracking.
Middle wheel: connects the front and rear sections to buffer the impulse between them.
Lower ring: buffer the impact force of the contact surface with the middle wheel to prevent the wood from cracking at the back section.
Back section: The thicker back section of the club is made of maple, walnut, ebony, oak and ebony.
Grip: most of them are made of thread, and high-grade billiards sticks are also made of leather to prevent hand slipping.
Rubber head: the rubber part at the tail of billiard cue, in which there are mostly counterweight screws for adjustment.
Logo: embedded in the tail of the club, generally circular, but also square or other shapes, used to mark the brand and other information. There are also traces of direct carving or hot stamping on the original wood.
Extended handle: (nickname: extended handle, small rear handle)
Belonging to accessories, it is divided into wooden fixed-length telescopic handle and metal telescopic handle. Most brands of billiard sticks are equipped with extended handles at the factory, and some need to be purchased separately.
Note: the interface specifications of most brands of extension handles are not compatible, and they can only be used with extension handles produced by the original factory.
Billiards cue material:
As a necessary tool for every player, the club plays a particularly important role in playing.
First, choose a club that suits you. Many players choose the club completely wrong. For example, some players are superstitious about a brand first, then a professional player, and then a material. This is meaningless. The only criterion for a club is whether it suits you.
Beginners and experts use different clubs. Novices' requirements for clubs should be flexibility.
Some top clubs are not suitable for beginners to practice at all. He doesn't have that delicate touch. Soft clubs will only make them lose accuracy, and there is no way to control them. Maybe the hitting point is only slightly off the center, because of the elasticity of the club, there will be an unexpected side spin. Therefore, if you choose a club, you must first understand your own level, and pursuing expensive ones may not be suitable for you.
In the choice of materials, it is mainly divided into oak and maple, and some people say that ash and Qin Mu are different translations of ash. In Ash, some people call it Ash and some people call it Qin Mu because the wood produced has different time zones and different export routes.
These two kinds of wood have the same characteristics: high density, good water retention and moderate elasticity. The different characteristics are: there are many kinds of oak, the choice of wood with different elasticity is large, the wood production cycle is short, the material utilization rate is slightly higher than that of maple, and it is easier to air dry. But oak with good color is hard to find.
Maple, with moderate elasticity, long wood cycle, slightly lower material utilization rate and long air drying process, is the reason why maple is more expensive. Basically used in the production of 9 clubs. Maple is easier to maintain than oak. The appearance is generally flat wood grain, but sometimes there are fold textures, and the structure is loose and rough; Medium weight, hardness and strength; Low bending strength, toughness, seismic performance and corrosion resistance; Medium durability and extremely high compressive strength.
According to this difference, anyone can choose the oak club that suits him, but not everyone can use the maple club well, because oak can be said to have various handholds, while maple has basically the same handholds.
Oak has a hard and straight texture, rough structure, elegant color, beautiful texture, high mechanical strength and wear resistance, but the wood is not easy to dry and cut by sawing.
Ash wood, tough and elastic, milky white or pink. Processing is simple, steam method is easy to bend, but easy to rot.
Many people think that the pattern of oak clubs is real, but it is not. The pattern is not only beautiful, but also the symbol of oak. The cusp itself is the annual ring of wood, and the distance between the cusp can basically indicate the position and angle of wood used as a cue in the log. For example, a club with a lot of tips, wood near the treetops, or a person with a flat bottom corner can do it. The wood near the treetops is so soft and low density that it will become brittle and bad once it loses water. The selection of talents with flat bottom angle is generally hard, inflexible, dense and heavy. Many people know that there are few oak sticks with 4-6 sharp mouths. That's the reason. If there are 4-6 holes and the patterns are evenly spaced, it means that the talent is selected near the center of the tree, with moderate elasticity and density, and the angle of talent selection is close to vertical, which conforms to the grain of the tree itself, so there is basically no need to worry about bending the club.
The cork is suitable for high-level players to handle the ball with small force, and it is not easy for junior players to control the far table. Generally speaking, ash trees are better for wooden poles. Oak has enough hardness and good stability when hitting the ball, but it is poor in other aspects.
On the Chemical Treatment of Clubs
At present, many famous clubs in the world carry out chemical treatment in their top clubs. Apart from JP, JP himself is an antique and doesn't like chemistry. The so-called chemical treatment is to prepare an acidic solution to corrode a part of fatty collagen in wood, leaving tough fibers, improving elasticity and reducing weight. In order to adapt to the use of very delicate players, the special chemical treatment of the potion is regarded as the top secret.
About the carbon club. Different people have different opinions. Although elasticity, hardness and weight can be perfectly matched, it lacks the unique texture of wood.
Club selection:
When many friends choose their own clubs, the first feeling is "Shun". What is smoothness? My own experience is:
First, the weight and center of gravity should be appropriate. Convenience means that you have the urge to play when you pick up the pole (or you think it's cool to hit people in the head with it)! People who have no special requirements on weight can choose 18 ounce clubs, and a slightly lighter club is convenient for you to master the sense of the ball. Many domestic clubs are not made according to the standard, which leads to a great deviation of the center of gravity. Some manufacturers use wood without standard production procedures, and the counterweight of the rear handle makes the center of gravity too front or back. This kind of club will greatly affect your normal play! And it will make you lose control of your power for a long time. So from this point of view, when we choose clubs, we should try our best to choose clubs produced by regular manufacturers. Although they use other people's technology and equipment, they are still reasonable in terms of production standards.
The second is the hardness of the club. Some people may not know how to choose the hardness of the club. This can't be broken by hand. Generally, maple clubs are softer than birch or oak clubs (both of which have patterns).
Judging the hardness of a patterned club depends on the pattern density of the shaft. The denser the pattern, the harder the club is. If you pay more attention to the grain of the pattern, you'd better choose a club with a straight pattern and no scar (that is, the arrow on the front of the shaft and the wood grain on the side of the shaft should be straight).
The third is the toughness of the rod. This will directly determine the force transmission effect of your club! The method is: hold the center of gravity of the club with one hand, and then leave the club with the other hand to feel the vibration of the club head. The club with good toughness vibrates evenly and for a long time, and the vibration force is from the inside out. Or use the other hand to hold the end of the club and hit the center of gravity, so as to feel the vibration of the club (here is another point: the faster the vibration frequency, the harder the club, and vice versa). Don't worry, feel more, compare clubs more, and you will distinguish clearly. Don't be afraid of trouble and time-consuming in order to use the club in your hand.
Fourth, it is the workmanship of the club. Mainly check whether the copper head of the club is loose, whether the front and rear branch interfaces are concentric, and whether there is a gap after tightening. Whether the club is smooth (many clubs are not painted now, so you don't need to use sandpaper when you buy them, which can greatly reduce the chance of club deformation).
As for whether the club is straight or not, I think everyone will roll on the table:) Note: roll slowly, and check whether the shaft bounces through the backlight on the side of the club and whether there is a gap between the club and the table. Don't forget to look at the back of the club, it won't bounce. Don't hit a new club with sandpaper, it will soon break. It is best to clean the club with a semi-dry soft cloth after each use, so as not to corrode the club with clever powder and dirt. Oil the club every half month to prevent the club from cracking and deformation.
Club maintenance:
High-grade clubs are made of natural wood. Although the material has been processed and screened through many processes, if it is not carefully maintained during use, the external and internal structures may still change, and the club is slender and often hit, which is easy to cause damage. Therefore, in order to keep the club stable and prolong its service life, it must be carefully maintained.
First, keep it clean during use, and often wipe it with a dry cloth to prevent sweat and other stolen goods from infiltrating into the wood and eroding the rod body. For buckled clubs, the threaded contact surface should be kept clean. Don't wipe the club with a wet cloth. Apply club oil regularly to prevent the change of air humidity from affecting club performance.
Second, put the club vertically when not in use, or choose a well-structured club box for storage. Don't put the club in a place where the temperature is too high, too low and the humidity changes greatly for a long time (such as near the heating, car trunk, etc.). ).
Third, when the wooden surface changes slightly, it is not appropriate to polish it with coarse sandpaper. If necessary, it should be lightly wiped with polished sandpaper, and then immediately coated with polished rod oil. If it changes greatly, it must be professionally maintained.
Fourth, don't beat the vibrator (especially the one with buckle) often. Don't hit the ball with a stick that doesn't stick to the skin. Once the copper ring, thread and other parts are loose, they should be repaired as soon as possible to avoid irreparable damage to the wood.
Snooker club structure:
First of all, a single club
Second, 3/4 Split Club.
Third, 1/2 Split Club
Four, four/five split clubs
5. 3/4 Highly divided club
I. Single shot (alias: straight shot, single shot, single shot)
The shaft of the club is integrated with no joint in the middle. The different Woods of the front branch and the back handle are forked together. The length of the rod is about 145cm.
Advantages: good force transmission. Because in theory, integrated wood transmission is better. Although the wood of the front branch and the back stalk are different, they are all wood and have similar physical properties.
Disadvantages: inconvenient to carry. The minimum length of the club is 145cm, and the extended handle or the club box may be longer, so many cars can't fit in the trunk or back seat.
Second, 3/4 Split Club.
There is an interface from the position of the club head down to about 3/4 of the whole club, and the club can be unscrewed and installed in the club box when not in use. After unscrewing, the length of the front branch is about 1 10cm, and the length of the rear handle is about 35-36cm.
Advantages: it is convenient to carry, and the interface is close to the center of gravity of the club, so that the whole club can be stressed evenly.
Third, 1/2 Split Club
There is an interface in the center of the whole club. When not in use, you can unscrew the club and put it in the club box.
Apart from portability, there are few such styles.
Four, four/five split clubs
It is basically the same as the 3/4 club, but the interface position is lower than the 3/4 and closer to the end of the club. It can be unscrewed for storage.
5. 3/4 Highly divided club
The interface position is higher than 3/4, and there are few clubs in this interface position. The TM2 model under Thailand's MASTER brand is well known, because the famous snooker player mark williams has won many awards for using this club.
Advantages: it is more convenient to carry.
Disadvantages: Because the joint is located in the ash wood part, long-term use may cause the wood grain dislocation of the front and rear branches, which will affect the appearance.
Snooker cue specifications:
Length: the total length of the club, the straight line length from the position of the copper ring to the end of the club. Usually 145cm.
Weight: generally between 480-520g.
Rod head diameter: that is, the diameter of copper hoop, usually between 9.5mm and10 mm.
Rear handle diameter: the diameter of the thickest part of the rear handle.
Taper: The club is thin at the front and thick at the back, but not straight. Different brands of clubs will have different radians, which is called taper.
Center of gravity position: the center of gravity position of the whole club is usually located at the position where the head accounts for 3/4 of the whole club, and different brands will have subtle differences.
It can also be used, because jujube trees are hard and heavy, with poor elasticity and no permeability to force transmission, so the effect is not good.