The production technology of gold and silver fashion jewelry not only has the traditional production technology in China, such as embroidery technology, filigree technology, point-green technology, abortion technology, flat filling technology, inlay technology, blue burning technology and so on. There are also modern machining processes, such as casting process, electroforming process and stamping process.
First, the carving process
Chisel flower is a process of using a set of chisel with various basic patterns to make the metal surface show concave and convex patterns through the hammer of the chisel. Flower carving is an ancient craft. Unlike engraving and carving, no metal material is cut during carving. Flower carving technology serves two purposes: one is to make flower carving metal jewelry that only hits from the front; Secondly, pat the floating flower product from the back, and then pat it from the front to enhance its effect.
Second, the filament technology
Filament technology, also known as refined gold technology and filament-tired technology, is made by drawing gold, silver and copper into filaments and stacking them. Mosaic is to make gold and silver pieces into utensils, and then chisel out patterns, or carve patterns with bows and set gems. The fine gold technology in Ming Dynasty can be divided into four categories: filigree technology, flower carving technology, abortion technology and inlay technology. Filament technology is the production process of reprocessing "filament", that is, pinching, filling, saving, welding, stacking, laying, weaving, braiding and tapering.
1. Chopped silk is a groove made of filaments, which is made into various patterns such as dragons and phoenixes, lotus flowers, colorful clouds, butterflies, birds and auspicious patterns.
2. Sticking film is to fill the design outline with flattened filaments. Commonly used types are filling archwire and filling petals.
3. Saving welding is the process of putting patterns together and forming a complete piece of jewelry through welding.
4. Stacking is a process of stacking charcoal ashes, spelling out various shapes, uniformly sieving and welding the powder with a small sieve, and uniformly winding yards on the charcoal ashes.
5. Weaving is to weave the edge pattern of gold and silver thread with different shapes of shading, and then stick it on the shading to make different flower patterns made by various technological methods, which are completed by welding.
Third, the process of burning blue
Blue burning is made by filling the whole carcass with colored glaze and then baking it in a blast furnace with a temperature of about 800 degrees Celsius. Glass is melted from sandy solid into liquid, and after cooling, it becomes gorgeous glass fixed on the carcass. At this time, if the colored glaze is lower than the height of the copper wire, it is necessary to refill the colored glaze and then sinter it, usually four or five times in a row, until the pattern is filled to the same level as the cloisonne pattern.
Four. Mosaic technology
Jewelry inlay technology began in the west, and its technical difficulty is more sophisticated and complicated than the traditional oriental jade carving technology. It pays attention to design texture and exquisite craftsmanship. In jewelry modeling, we can highlight the material characteristics of jewelry, and the combination and contrast of various materials make the whole jewelry more fashionable and decorative. The process is as follows:
1, enjoy the stone. Observe the shape and specifications of the gem to see if it has cracks and can withstand the pressure required for inlaying.
2. Swing the stone. Put the gem on the ring bezel to see if it fits the specifications of the bezel, and if the claws are long enough and can be fixed.
3. positioning. The shape of the gem is used to measure the specifications of the inlaid metal jewelry pieces and determine the required position of the inlay. First, grind the inlay into a groove with a dental needle until the gem can be fixed. Then use an umbrella needle to grind a gap on the claw position according to the height of the gem, which is convenient for fixing the gem. The position of each claw must be balanced and consistent, and there must be no height, otherwise the uneven appearance will appear after the gem is set.
4, into the stone. Put the gemstone into the preset inlay, and then confirm whether the gemstone and inlay are placed evenly, whether the surface is balanced, not loose, not offset, and completely consistent.
5, solid stone. Fix a gem in an inlay. When fixing, the force must be applied according to the hardness of various gems. When using pliers, the force must be uniform. If the force is too large, the gem will be damaged. If you don't apply enough force, you may not be able to fix the stone firmly, and it is easy to make it loose.
6. repair. After the above procedures, it is inevitable to leave pincer marks and file marks, which will damage the overall beauty of jewelry and must be repaired, especially the parts with long claws. When repairing claws, we must pay attention to the safety of the torus. It is best to protect the gem with your fingers, and then round, smooth and repair your claws with a file and sandpaper.