During the period of 1992, when Qu Ying, the champion of the second supermodel competition in China, made a catwalk for luxury goods at the gate of China World Hotel, it was hard to imagine that entertainers would be associated with luxury brands in the future.
1997, Takeshi Kaneshiro endorsed Prada men's wear for the first time, and shot a large advertisement for Prada 1998 spring and summer series, becoming the first artist to cooperate deeply with luxury brands.
Source: Sina Weibo @ Kelly Cary
Since then, artists such as Geng Le, Zhou Xun and Angel have established contact with Prada. Leaving the supermodel group and choosing to cooperate with artists has become a way for luxury brands including Prada to enter the mainland market.
In the blink of an eye, in 2022, the spokesmen of major luxury brands are competing for the early four-denier double ice, and now there are a number of small Kobanawa students such as Zhou Ye, Nana Ou-yang, Xia Chun and Liu Haoran. From the post-film group iteration to the stars with new qualifications, the influence of luxury brand spokespersons is gradually weakening only from the perspective of popularity.
Luxury brands can no longer rely on the battle for spokespersons to enhance brand value, and spokespersons are in an embarrassing period of old and new iterations.
On the one hand, luxury brands suffer from the lack of suitable spokespersons in the market; On the other hand, they refused to give up strict selection criteria. Luxury brands are faced with many problems, such as vague spokesperson positioning, unbearable responsibility, and falling gold content.
Zhou Xue, who used to be VivienneWestwood's brand business, couldn't help complaining to the entertainment thorn: "It's getting harder and harder for luxury brands to hire spokespersons these days."
Among the fans, Aidou speaks for a luxury brand, just like an actor won an Oscar and a singer won a Grammy. Not only can it be written into the performance table, but it is also the material for fans to step on the house.
Blue blood, red blood, top luxury, high luxury and light luxury divide many luxury brands into three or six grades and discharge a whole set of contempt chains. "Four magazines, six blue blood and eight red blood" is a popular knowledge.
The four major magazines refer to VOGUE, Bazaar, ELLE and Jia Ren, while the other five magazines that are not mentioned refer to GQ, Bazaar Men, ELLEMEN in Switzerland, Esquire and Fashion Men.
Stars appear on the cover of fashion magazines, either invited by magazines or recommended by luxury brands. When a luxury brand promotes a publication, stars need to appear on the cover of the magazine wearing the brand's clothes to promote the brand.
So the number of times you appear on the cover of fashion magazines is also a reflection of the status of stars in the fashion circle.
Source: Sina Weibo @Chrison Christen
In March of 20021year, Jackson Yee successfully unlocked the cover of 13 magazine, becoming the first artist in domestic entertainment circle to have a grand slam in mainstream magazines. Jackson Yee achieved this achievement because of his early cooperation with EmporioArmani, Givenchy, Tiffany, Bvlgari and other luxury goods, so that the brand can continue to promote publications for him.
"Six Blue Blood" and "Eight Red Blood" are the classification of luxury brands.
Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and Calvin Klein are called noble brands and are at the top of the contempt chain. The statement of "blue blood" originated from Spanish aristocrats, who thought that aristocrats were people with blue blood, and the brand "blue blood" naturally represented the aristocrats in the brand.
At present, Liu Yifei and Zhou Dongyu speak for Louis Wheaton, Shawn Shaw, Lu Han, Nini, Kun,,.
The latter kind of blue blood brand is red blood brand, including eight brands: Givenchy, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace, Hermes, Langfan and Burberry. Compared with blue blood brands, the number of red blood brands is more, and the gold content of spokespersons is relatively lower.
"Adam, Esther Yu and YoRoll, who debuted in the draft in recent years, are the brand spokespersons of Givenchy, a red-blooded brand, but their works and identities are not up to the standard of endorsing the blue-blooded brand." Zhou Xue explained.
Source: Sina Weibo @Chrison Christen
Chrison Christen, a senior fashion blogger, told the entertainment Cier that the knowledge of "four journals, six blues and eight reds" which was regarded as the standard in the rice circle at first was only anecdotal, and there was no such obvious contempt chain in the fashion circle. But now many people have begun to say so, and the fashion circle has gradually recognized it.
Four magazines, six blue blood and eight red blood, are a classic case of a rice circle "forcing death" fashion circle.
"Blue blood despises red blood, top luxury despises high luxury, and high luxury ignores light luxury. Now these statements have evolved into * * * knowledge. So luxury brands are looking for celebrities to be spokespersons. What is considered is not whether this star can bring goods, but whether this star can reduce the brand's' power'. " Brand Zhou Xue said.
Hermè s, standing on the pyramid of luxury brands, has never looked for any star to be a brand spokesperson. The unique coldness has added a bit of mystery to this brand in the public mind.
In the category of luxury goods, the spokesperson is a microcosm of the brand image, representing the current positioning and ethnic group of the brand or product line. Stars with goods can only be regarded as added value.
Luxury brands that don't worry about selling and luxury brands that don't care about star traffic, such as Hermes, don't pay special attention to the level of spokesperson traffic and the ability to bring goods.
Chrison Christen said: "Internationally, for example, a luxury brand finds an Oscar-winning actress and an Oscar-winning actress to speak for it, which proves that the brand image has reached a certain height. It will not evaluate or measure their so-called ability to carry goods, but pay more attention to the global reputation and influence of the spokesperson."
Source: Sina Weibo @ Xue Fei Sophia
202165438+February, YvesSaintLaurent officially announced that Al Pacino, the Oscar-winning actress, became the spokesperson. Al Pacino has appeared in classic international blockbusters, such as The Godfather, The Smell of Women and Scarface. , and enjoys a high international reputation. YvesSaintLaurent chose him, even though he is over 80 years old and has few fanatical die-hard fans.
The word "bringing goods" is a regional product after the emergence of East Asian rice circle culture. Only when spokespersons are invited in China, Japan and South Korea can luxury brands consider the ability to bring goods.
The identity of the spokesperson of luxury brands depends more on the influence of the stars, the sense of high class and whether it matches the brand tonality.
There is a joke in the fashion circle, "luxury brands lack friends." Zhou Xue said.
Once the identity of the spokesperson is finalized, the image of the luxury brand is tied to the image of the spokesperson. If the star's image is flawed, it will definitely affect the inherent image of luxury brands in the public mind.
Source: Sina Weibo @ Entertainment Master
202 1 1 19 The actress surnamed Zheng, who just announced to be the brand spokesperson a week ago, was quickly terminated due to negative news shortly after she became the spokesperson. Subsequently, the news that Prada's business in China was fired was posted on Weibo Hot Search.
Although the rumors of Prada China Company didn't expel the business people, Prada's official blog and Weibo, a private business person, were surrounded by netizens, asking them why they didn't cherish the brand feathers and do a good job as spokespersons.
The same thing happened in July of 20021,and the negative news of former Wu spokesperson was exposed. After other major brands canceled their cooperation with the actor, LouisVuitton did not say whether to cancel the contract, which caused widespread dissatisfaction among netizens and scolded LouisVuitton for supporting inferior artists.
Although LouisVuitton finally announced the termination of the contract and deleted all Weibo related to the actor, for a long time, there were still netizens in LouisVuitton's Weibo Square who criticized the brand for not knowing how to handle the crisis.
In 2022, the criteria for selecting spokespersons for luxury goods will become stricter and the audit will be more detailed. Zhou Xue said, "Every luxury brand has different processes and standards for selecting spokespersons, but now they all add one point: there is no potential risk of bad behavior." Some brands have added this to the compensation agreement of endorsement.
Prada and Louis Wheaton became negative textbooks because of their careless choice of spokesmen, which alerted many luxury brands: they would rather have no spokesmen, thus avoiding the strong connection between brands and stars.
It is not easy to get a spokesperson, but also want to use the influence of stars to let luxury brands enter more people's horizons. Many luxury brands have innovated brand ambassadors, brand friends, brand friends, brand muses, brand make-up, skin care, jewelry line spokespersons, brand promotion officers and other names that are lower than brand spokespersons to be assigned to cooperative stars.
Sun, a fencer who won the gold medal in the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games, and e-sports club, which won the world championship in League of Legends in 20021year, were affectionately called brand friends by Dior.
Source: Sina Weibo @DIOR Dior
Zhang Ruonan, Crystal and Yi, four small flowers with smaller coffee spots, are called Dior brand friends; Lin Yi and Liu Yuxin are Dior's brand ambassadors, Olivia is Dior's jewelry branch ambassador, and Jing Tian is Dior's skin care branch ambassador.
Angelababy is the spokesperson of Dior Cosmetics Division, while Karry is not only the ambassador of Dior brand, but also the spokesperson of Dior China Yuan Ye men's perfume series.
A Dior can't wait to win over the men and women who can be named in the entertainment circle. "Not putting eggs in one basket is the basic principle for luxury brands to determine cooperative stars." Zhou Xue said. Unlike spokespersons, the titles of ambassadors, girlfriends and girlfriends are not as heavy as spokespersons, and the brands do not have to bear the biggest negative impact after the turnover of ambassadors, girlfriends and girlfriends.
Cartier, like Hermes, has never had a brand spokesperson, but Cartier invites different stars to promote different jewelry series and products as brand ambassadors and close friends. Gong Li and Jackson Wang are brand ambassadors of Cartier, while Bai Jingting, Zhang zhen, G.E.M., Liu Haocun and Li Xian are brand friends of Cartier.
Source: Sina Weibo @ Cartier
Kristen even introduced to the entertainment thorn that the luxury brand titles of domestic stars are flying all over the sky, which is requested by the stars themselves.
"Under the rice circle culture, even if the stars themselves are unwilling to compare the number of luxury endorsements, fans will compare. Rational fans don't want to compare, competitors' fans will still compare, so in the end, everyone should compare and enter an involution state. Kristen said that every luxury brand has a different strategy. Some brands have a strong voice in China, so they may have special titles. For example, Zhou Xun's Chanel China spokesperson title was customized for her.
Brand spokesperson is better than brand ambassador, and brand ambassador is better than brand branch spokesperson. However, these three titles need to be reported to the brand headquarters, and they will be claimed in official website at the same time abroad. Obtaining titles such as brand girlfriends, good friends and promotion officers is just a means for stars to cooperate with luxury brands.
Non-spokesperson titles such as girlfriends and girlfriends rarely give celebrity endorsement fees.
Many stars are willing to spend time to reduce their prices and become "friends" of luxury brands for free, in order to need luxury brands to help them "gild".
It will take no less than one year for artists and luxury brands to show signs of cooperation and formally sign endorsement contracts.
Source: Sina Weibo @GUCCI
20 19 Sean Xiao started to contact Gucci and wore Gucci brooch when he appeared at the airport; In June 2020, Gucci provided a full suit for Sean Shaw magazine shooting; 202 1 10, Gucci officially announced that Xiaozhan became the brand spokesperson. Three years of friction, no more, no less.
"Before the official cooperation with the title is reached, luxury brands will unilaterally inspect the stars for a long time. The inspection period is as short as one or two years and as long as five or six years. " Zhou Xue said that there are usually five steps to determine the spokesperson of luxury brands.
The first step is that luxury brands require artists on Guanbo or official INS to wear the same clothes and jewelry; The second step is to shoot promotional pictures for luxury brands; The third step is to be invited by luxury brands to watch the show; The fourth step is to get the promotion of luxury brands; Finally, the brand name was officially announced and the cooperation was confirmed. If there is a problem at any step, it is very likely that the cooperation will be terminated from now on.
The longer the inspection period, the more complicated the steps and the harsher the conditions, and the spokespersons of luxury brands often have the highest gold content.
"Chanel has no global spokesperson from China, and Zhou Xun is only the spokesperson and global ambassador of China. Therefore, Chanel's brand ambassador is the title with the highest gold content in the current circle. Chanel will have a very long inspection period for each ambassador, and it is very difficult for newcomers to join. "
Source: Sina Weibo @ Chanel Chanel
According to Chrison Christen, to become a long-term co-artist of Chanel, you need to visit their studio in Paris first, and learn about the history and origin of the brand on the spot. To become an ambassador, you not only need to cross the above demanding threshold requirements, but also need a deeper assessment.
"As we all know, Chanel is not worried about sales at all, so when choosing artists to cooperate, it is more based on brand image evaluation, which means that Chanel will not have a' fast-food' signing."
In 2007, Zhou Xun's focus shifted from TV series to movies, and Chanel also noticed Zhou Xun, who is smart, free and playful by nature. In the same year, Zhou Xun attended Chanel2007 spring and summer haute couture conference; Later, Zhou Xun was arranged to visit Chanel's headquarters, watch Chanel's big show and meet Chanel's chief designer, Lafayette karl lagerfeld. Galeries Lafayette described Zhou Xun as much like Miss coco chanel.
Five years later, on 20 12, Zhou Xun finally officially joined the Chanel brand ambassador series, and has maintained an excellent cooperative relationship with Chanel since then. Because of this fit and long-term affection, the cooperation between Zhou Xun and Chanel is regarded as the benchmark of cooperation between luxury brands and stars in fashion circle.
In 2022, after the spokespersons of Louis Vuitton, Prada, Bulgari and other traffic stars overturned due to negative news, which affected the brand sales, luxury brands paid more attention to the young power of generation Z and the outstanding athletes in the sports circle when choosing partners.
"Now many brands pay great attention to millennials. Recently, I have heard more names in luxury brands, that is, Time Youth League. Before that, there were many big names vying for them. " Chrison Christen said, "I also learned that a luxury brand has signed a popular player for the Winter Olympics, and we can wait for the official announcement recently."
202 1 years ago, the spokespersons of LouisVuitton brand were two actresses, Liu Yifei and Zhou Dongyu. The former is developing towards internationalization, while the latter is the newly born three gold medal actresses in China. Gina and Zhong Xintong, three brand ambassadors, are actresses in the film and television industry. Their influence is limited in the same field, and it is difficult to radiate to the young female college students at this stage.
Source: Sina Weibo @ Louis Vuitton
In February, 2002 1,1,Time Youth League was invited by Louis Vuitton to go to Shenzhen to watch the brand theme exhibition. On March 3 1 2022, LouisVuitton's official blog published a group of promotional pictures taken by the Youth League for LV VOLT jewelry series.
Behind the idol groups of the Z era are the young people of the Z generation.
The average age of Youth League members is 18 years old, and fan portraits tend to be junior high school, senior high school and college students. Their influence has played an important role in Louis Vuitton's development of the next generation of young markets. Traffic is not the demand of luxury goods. Their real purpose is to promote their brand position to this group of young fans.
In foreign countries, it is more common for athletes to establish cooperation with luxury brands. Tennis player Naomi Osaka became Louis Vuitton's brand ambassador, and soccer players cristiano ronaldo and David Beckham filmed advertisements for Emporio Armani. Chrison Christen said, "I believe there will be more and more cooperation between luxury brands and athletes after the domestic winter Olympics fever in 2022."
It may be the most correct way for luxury brands to choose spokespersons in the future by lengthening the inspection time of spokespersons again, focusing on younger groups, breaking the boundaries of entertainment circles and touching the sports circle.
(In this article, Zhou Xue is a pseudonym. )