At the press conference held on the 3rd, I learned that the Cartier Treasure Art Exhibition consists of four parts: serving the European royal family, the artistic treasures of Huadu, the infiltration of oriental culture and the integration of five continents. The first two parts will mainly show the works of European native artistic style, while the latter two parts will focus on the jewelry and treasures created by absorbing China elements and artistic styles from all over the world. Most of the exhibits were made before the 1950s.
Art exhibition poster
Cartier: The Jeweler of the Emperor;
He was appointed as the royal jeweler of 16 European royal families.
As a jewelry workshop located in Paris Peace Street, Cartier has established close ties with the royal family since its establishment. From 65438 to 0855, Countess Uweikerke became Cartier's client. Her husband was an artistic director in the Charles Louis Napolé on Bonaparte era, and she was also a close friend of Napoleon's young cousin Princess Mathilde. A year later, Princess Mathilde personally visited Cartier. Since then, Cartier's works have begun to cross national boundaries and become famous among royal nobles. 1902, King Edward VII praised Cartier as "the jeweler of the emperor and the emperor among jewelers". On the eve of King Edward VII's accession to the throne, Cartier received an order for at least 27 crowns. 1904, that is, two years later, the young king became the first monarch to appoint Cartier as a royal jeweler. Since then, Cartier has been highly respected by many royal families in the East and West, and has been designated as the royal jeweler of Europe 16 royal families. In addition, on Cartier's client list, world celebrities from all walks of life are on the list, such as Princess Diana, Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Marilyn Monroe, Jacqueline Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor.
From the cheetah brooch that once accompanied the Duchess of Windsor, the sword of the French Academy specially customized for the literary giant jean cocteau, to the "mysterious clock" full of strange magic colors and the Kirin bracelet permeated with thousands of years old myths, these antique treasures are vivid memories and vivid representations of the world jewelry history and social trends in the East and the West. Next, let's walk into the art hall of Cartier antique treasures.
Plug-in clock
Embedded screen clock-the wisdom crystallization of oriental culture
From Cartier's series of works full of China charm in the 1920s and 1930s, we can deeply feel the infiltration and influence of eastern culture on western artistic style. These exquisite works with oriental flavor are deeply influenced by the decorative patterns of jade carvings, Qi Diao and silk fabrics. Cartier jewelry designers boldly borrowed China's artistic products and directly implanted them into the design of new works, so that the oriental elements can be perfectly integrated with western crafts. Cartier's external clock designed in 1926 is a typical example.
The clock plate of the screen-inserted desk clock is made of the screen-inserted part of China white jade relief, and the jade clock plate is beautifully carved on both sides. The pointer on the front is made into the shape of a dragon, and on the back, an enamel dragon proudly guards the China landscape depicted in the exquisite relief. China's most mysterious animal image instantly becomes the crowning touch of the whole work, showing Cartier's extremely rich imagination and creativity. The colors of clocks and watches are limited to black, red and green, which makes a perfect work full of China charm and shows Cartier's luxurious and elegant temperament and style.
Triangular brooch
The Artistic Style Leading the Social Trend —— Triangle Brooch
/kloc-At the end of 0/9th century, under the influence of the new middle class's pursuit of classicism, new platinum jewelry in Cartier Garland style came into being. Platinum gives jewelry a vivid shape, while the lightness of garland style better explains various classical patterns. The triangular brooch created by Cartier 1907 is undoubtedly a model of garland style.
This triangle bra brooch is exquisite in craftsmanship and luxurious in design. Looking closely, there are many similarities between its creative modeling and the gluttonous pattern combination in Shang and Zhou Dynasties in China. Similar decorative patterns in Shang and Zhou dynasties in China were mostly used on precious and powerful vessels, which were solemn, powerful and rigorous in structure, and were the classics of bronze decorative patterns. The nobility, exquisiteness and mystery of the two have the same effect, which shows that the eastern and western cultures reach the same goal by different routes.
This work also reflects that jewelry is closely related to the changes of human society. The brooch adds weight because of its large size and many gems. If there is no bra, this work cannot be worn on clothes. When the corset gradually faded out of people's lives, such jewelry accessories also disappeared.
For most crowns and brooches, once the styles are out of fashion, it is inevitable to replace and re-inlay them. But this triangular brooch is still well preserved after more than a hundred years, and its great artistic value has created a miracle in the history of jewelry.
Jaguar-brooch
Kirin bracelet
Kirin bracelet (1928)
Under Cartier's careful creativity, the polished and carved Kirin actually appeared in pairs on the bracelet. It was inspired by the collar in ancient civilization. Two mighty beasts, headed by coral, each have an emerald ball decorated with ribs, which is very lively.
Cocos Nick Crown
Cocos Nick Crown —— Exquisite craftsmanship that inherits the essence of history.
Since ancient times, the dazzling crown has been a symbol of royal authority and supreme status. Cartier's customized crown for the royal family, with its exquisite design and exquisite jewelry making technology, shows noble and elegant aristocratic temperament and amazing artistic taste.
Using the earliest "muguet" inlay technology in jewelry history, this classic Kokoshnik crown shows the ultimate skill handed down from generation to generation by Cartier. The slender platinum is shaped like a muguet, with a bright cut diamond in the middle and several diamonds around it, which looks like a single giant diamond. Pear-shaped diamonds inlaid on the "Gully Lily Bone Flower" by the method of "Lily of the Valley" can also hang freely and shine smartly. As a classic of Cartier's antique crown series, Cocos Nick Crown shows the charm of Cartier as "the jeweler of the emperor and the emperor of jewelers" with the perfect combination of diamonds and pearls.