First, the knot type.
Tie-comb weaving method, first tie the hair at the top, then tie it with silk rope, bend it into a tie, support it on a post, hold it high above the head or on both sides, and have a towering appearance, and then decorate it with various gold ornaments, which are noble and gorgeous, and are mostly used for goddesses, empresses, ladies and virgins. For example, Li's Goddess of Vimalakīrti and Lang's Du Qiuniang all belong to this hairstyle. Eighty-seven fairy scrolls, Yongle Palace murals, there are many such hairstyles, generally high, double, flat, hanging and so on, with many changes:
Feixian steamed stuffed bun is mostly high-pitched on both sides. According to "Roast Hub", "When Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the Queen Mother descended to earth, and the fairy buns were different. The emperor ordered the palace to be effective, and the number was Feixian Steamed Bun. " Mostly used for fairies and maidens.
Lingyun bun belongs to a single style with high style. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "After the imperial edict, I combed Lingyun's bun, Yincui gorge combed Wang Xian's nine-eared bun, and Jiufei combed Shen Luan's bun." These are all of high style. "Tian Fei Street" is tied to the top and stands upright. According to "Song Wuxing", "In the sixth year of Yuanjia, folk women scored three points, which is called flying." The ancient "Hundred Flowers" hairstyle also belongs to this type.
Hair in a bun, mostly the hairstyle of a girl who has never left the room. Divide the hair into strands, tie the knot at the top, so that it hangs naturally without leaning, and tie the tail of the hair on the shoulder, also known as dovetail. According to Guo Xi An Yu Jia, "Emperor Han Ming ordered court officials to comb flowers to make buns." In the Tang Dynasty, it was often used as a symbol of virgin hairstyle.
Twist comb weaving is to divide the hair into several strands, twist it like a twist, and tie it on the top of the head or on both sides. This hairstyle is very elastic and can rotate freely, which is very helpful for beauty. According to Cai Lan magazine, "After Zhen entered the palace, there was a green snake in the palace. After changing clothes every day, form a bun and shape it before and after. Because of its different effects, the bun is different every day, and the number is Lingshe bun. " For example, the fairy in The Eighty-Seven Immortals and the fan in the picture of Tang Zhou's ladies also belong to this hairstyle. There are generally several forms of swivel changes, such as lateral swivel, cross swivel and overlapping swivel.
"Follow the cloud bun" is similar to the form of side twist, and its bun rolls with the cloud. According to "Guo Xian Jia Yi", "Chen Gong combs her hair." This hairstyle is vivid and ingenious, which is very popular with ladies.
"Xu Ling bun" belongs to the form of cross-twist, and its bun is cross-twist and hangs on the top. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, there are Xu Lingji and Xiangyun Ji in Sui Dynasty. This hairstyle is like a cloud, shaking but not falling on the Lingtuo.
"Lin Yun Jin Xiang Ji" is similar to the form of overlapping twist, and its weaving method is to twist the hair into strands and overlap it at the top, which is vivid and stable. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "In the great cause, imperial court officials combed clouds and approached incense buns." This hairstyle is unique and interesting. This hairstyle is also found in the eighty-seven fairy scrolls.
The winding bun is similar to the winding form, and its weaving method is to twist the hair into strands and tie it to the back or front of the head. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "Liang Wudi court officials combed their hearts." This hairstyle can also be found in the anonymous Yin Zhen Flight to Le Tu Ping in the Qing Dynasty.
Disc-stacking comb knitting is to tie the hair bundles together and then fold them on the top of the head or on both sides, which is called "bun". There is a saying in the Ci of Ninggong that "the bun is fragrant and fragrant, and the hairstyle prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, which can be seen in the existing paintings and tomb murals in the Tang Dynasty. The murals of Princess Yongtai's tomb and the fairies in the Eighty-Seven Immortals are all similar to this hairstyle. This hairstyle is beautiful and decorative, and is favored by empresses and ladies. There are many varieties, such as single snail, double snail, lily bun and Panheng bun.
The carding method of single screw is to gather strands and stack them like screws. Overhead, there are also some hairlike carvings in the sarcophagus of Princess Yongtai's tomb in the west and north.
Double helix comb method is to divide the hair into two strands and tie a knot at two top corners, also known as "double angle". This hairstyle is also found in the murals of Karazhuo's tomb, and the bun is beautiful and elegant.
The combing method of "lily bun" is to divide the net hair into strands and twist them on the top of the head. As shown in the figure.
The combing method of "wandering bun" is to curl and stack the hair on the top of the head, which is called wandering bun. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "Chang 'an women are tied up in knots, and there are endless ways to tie them up, until today. "
Vertebral knot combing method is to tie the hair on the top of the head, in front of the head, behind the head or on both sides, and then bind it with silk rope to form one, two or three vertebrae, and wear it with a hairpin to stand upright on the head. According to "The Origin of Things", "Sun Shou is a horse bun, Zhao Hede is a palace curly hair, and Meng Guang is a vertebral bun." They are all similar to the knot, implying prudence and gentleness. From Shang and Zhou Dynasties to Qin and Han Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song and Yuan Dynasties, Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was extended and changed. There are mainly several categories, such as high-ridged bun, throwing home bun and falling horse bun.
The combing method of Gao Zhuan Ji is to tie the hair at the top, pull it into a single vertebra and stand on the top of the head. According to "Dressing Table", "Song Lizong's comb is high and lofty, and his name is high and lofty." This hairstyle is also seen in the female sculptures of Jinci Temple in Taiyuan, Shanxi Province in the Song Dynasty.
The combing method of "swinging a bun at home" is to pull the spine on the top of your head into a bun, lengthen your temples, and hold your face with tape. According to the Five Classics of Tang Dynasty, it is recorded that "the fake temples of the imperial concubine are jewelry, which is called Yi bun, and the wife of Nuo nationality is very anxious to tie her hair as a prisoner bun, while the women in the late Tang Dynasty comb her hair and hold her face as a family bun". Today, the role of Beijing Opera is still expanding.
The comb method of inclined bun is to divide the hair into strands, twist it into vertebrae, and put the inclined hair tail in front of or on the side of the head, which is quite common in ladies' paintings. The Book of Jin said: "Princess Taiyuan, you must put a bun on your temples."
The combing method of falling horse bun is to tie the hair together into a big spine, and tie a silk rope in the middle of the spine, which looks like a horse's belly and falls on the side or back of the head. According to the "Original Records", "Sun Shou is a horse's bun." Notes on Ancient and Modern China also records that "the falling horse bun is just a Japanese bun, and the cloud: the shape of falling horse is also".
The inverted comb method is to gather the hair, tie it backwards at the top, and then comb it into various forms, such as double knives, which are called "rotary knife bun". A frightened bird wants to fly and is called "Jinggu bun". Cheng Yuanbao is called "Yuanbao steamed bun". Turn it into a high wall, which is called "high bun" and "flower beauty figure" according to the records in Dressing Table. "In Kaiyuan, the comb was turned into a crane bun, and the noble lady made a worry bun. In Zhenyuan, it was really a bun with five colors of flowers." This kind of anti-comb is difficult to weave and prevailed in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It is the dress of the empresses and ladies, such as the anti-comb style in Han Xizai's night banquet. Its changes generally include "double-edged steamed bun", "surprised steamed bun", "Chaotian steamed bun" and "Yuanbao steamed bun".
The combing method of double-edged bun is to tie the hair on it and then turn it into a double-edged bun. According to "Dressing Table", "Wude in Tang Dynasty wore a bun in the palace. Comb the bun upside down, comb it back to the real bun in Zhenyuan and paste it with five-color flowers. " It's all about the opposite hairstyle.
"Stunning bun" is also one of the reverse styles. Its combing method is to pull up the hair and turn it upside down, so that the frightened birds want to spread their wings, which is vivid and interesting. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, people in Wei Palace like to draw long eyebrows, which makes them surprised by moths.
Chaotian bun is also one of the forms, and the weaving method will be tied up and tied to it. Then turn it into a high bun. According to records, "Song Lizong combed a high bun on the top of the palace princess's head and said," If you don't go down, you should dish it up. "The female statue of Taiyuan Jinci built in the Song Dynasty is similar to this hairstyle.
The combing method of Yuanbao bun is to tie the hair at the top, and then cover the wood or wig in a cage, showing the shape of Yuanbao. "Book of Jin" said: "Since a lot of hair is used, it is impossible to carry it constantly, so put it on a wooden cage first, which is called a fake bun or a fake head." This hairstyle is similar to the female figurines unearthed in the tomb of Zhang Xiong and his wife in the Tang Dynasty.
Double-hanging comb knitting method is to divide the top of hair into two strands, comb them into symmetrical bun or hair circle, and hang them on both sides relatively. This hairstyle is mostly used for maids, maids, maids or underage girls. According to records, from the Qin Dynasty to modern times, the most typical ones are Shuangji and Twin Bun, which are especially common in the preserved ancient paintings. This hairstyle is similar to the maid of the provider of the Thousand Buddha Cave in Dunhuang and the maid-in-waiting of Yan's Liedi Tu. Its changes generally include "double bun", "hanging bun" and "double flat bun".
Double bun is the most common hairstyle in double hanging style, and its combing method is to divide the hair evenly on both sides, then comb it into a bun and put it on both sides of the head. The extra burden is decorated with drooping hair, commonly known as bangs, which is generally used for maids and maids.
Double flat hair is a double hanging comb weaving method, in which the hair is evenly divided on both sides. Then tie it into a circle and make it symmetrical and vertical. Hanging on both sides. This hairstyle is quite common in ladies' pictures, and is mostly used for unmarried girls or children.
The hair of children or unmarried girls is combed by dividing the hair into two strands, symmetrically tying them into two vertebrae, which are placed on both sides of the top of the head, and a small lock of hair is led out at the bun. Let it droop naturally
Lotus crown: This picture is recorded in the lotus crown carved by a female in Jinci, Taiyuan. Its crown is like a lotus, decorated with golden jade, tied to the top bun. How easy it was for women in the Tang and Song Dynasties.
Corolla: There is only one bun in the crown, and there are many flowers on the crown, which is more useful for ladies in the Ming Dynasty. This picture is taken from the corolla of Tang Yin's Shu Meng Palace Prostitute.
Guan Feng: This painting is taken from Guan Feng in the stone carving of Prince Yide's tomb in Tang Dynasty. This is a gift from ancient empresses and concubines. The crown is decorated with phoenix, pearl and jade, which is heavier than ceremony.
Woman: A woman's scarf is a kind of silk scarf, tied in a bun and tied with a hairpin. Song Liang Hongyu likes to wear women's scarves, so she often calls heroines heroines.
Clothing and personal ornaments
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (770 ~ 22 BC1), weaving and embroidery technology made great progress, which made the clothing materials more and more refined and the variety names more and more varied. Brocade in Xiangyi, Henan, ice dance, romance and embroidery in Qilu, Shandong are popular all over the country. The spread of technology makes a variety of exquisite clothes stand out. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, not only the princes themselves were luxuriantly dressed, but even the courtiers Ke Qingshi wore pearls and jade around their waists, and clothes, crowns and shoes were very expensive. The ancients wore jade, which was divided into honour and inferiority, and gave it a symbol of personality. As far as influence is concerned, people in the upper class, both men and women, should wear several pieces or groups of exquisite carved Yu Pei. The sword was a new weapon at that time. In order to show courage and self-defense, nobles must wear swords inlaid with gold and jade. Waist belts are also popular with various hooks, which compete with each other. Men's and women's hats are more eye-catching, with delicate veils as thin as cicadas and precious pearls and jade; Some are shaped like cups. Shoes, mostly made of small deerskin, or woven with silk thread and fine grass; In winter, fur coats are extremely thick, and white fox fur is worth thousands of dollars. Women like to make the front of the cuffs with fur, and thin and gorgeous gloves with half exposed fingers, which are extremely beautiful. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the clothes of the upper class were broad and the clothes of the lower class were narrow. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of domestic literati and the dresses of Shu Ren people. They are unisex and may have been formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The deep coat combines the previously independent coat and skirt into one, but keeps the line that divides into two, which is not sewn up and down, and the width is not wide. The most ingenious design is to embed a rectangular fabric at the junction of waist seam and sleeve seam of two armpits, which can make the plane cut three-dimensionally, perfectly represent the human body shape, and the sleeves also have greater elbow extension function. According to records, there are four different names for deep clothes: deep clothes, long clothes, linen clothes and medium clothes. From the unearthed objects, it can be seen that during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, many clothes were widely used, even attached to clothes, and some of them could be regarded as variants of deep clothes. In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu to promote Khufu's riding and shooting. Khufu refers to the costume of "Hu Ren" at that time, which is quite different from Dai Bo who took off his coat in the Central Plains. It is characterized by knee-length clothes, a fruit belt around the waist, hooks and boots, which is convenient for riding and shooting activities. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing styles were unprecedentedly rich and varied, including deep clothes and Hu clothes. Musicians wear hoods, dancers have sleeves several feet long, and some people often wear horns or magpie tails, long small sleeve dresses and diagonal skirts. These are all related to the colorful social life.
Qin and Han clothing (Qin and Han clothing fabrics are still splendid. Embroidery patterns are mostly mountain clouds, birds and animals or vines. Brocade has various complicated geometric diamond patterns, and the whole pattern is woven with words. The history of Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties has never been interrupted, and it is called the "Silk Road" in history. As a result, China clothing culture spread to the world. Since the Qin and Han dynasties, there have been some developments and changes in deep clothing. Judging from the upper class in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the general cut robes were institutionalized. There is not much difference between the clothing system in Qin Dynasty and the Warring States Period, which ensures that China's clothing keeps the basic form of deep clothing. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are Hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together to become a rigid suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "boasting clothes and big skirts". The first step is to wear different shoes. Belt. In the Qin dynasty, clothes were black. In the Han Dynasty, there was a clothing system. The history books list more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms of emperors and courtiers. The grade difference in clothing is very obvious. Clothing in the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties (220 ~ 589) During the Wei, Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, the grade clothing changed and the national clothing merged greatly. The crown hat has been replaced by towels used by scholars, such as horn towels, water chestnut towels, purple nylon towels, white nylon towels and so on. Wei Chu and Cao Wen have formulated a nine-product official system, which takes purple, red and green as the difference of nine products. Since then, this system has been used in successive dynasties until the Yuan and Ming Dynasties. In the Jin Dynasty, in addition to towels, the first clothes were used by the society, and men with official positions also wore small crowns with lacquer sarong crowns with gauze caps. Wearing the dumb pleats of northern national shorts has gradually become the mainstream, which can be worn by both men and women, regardless of grade. Women's clothing is "frugal and rich". From the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the period of Qi and Liang Dynasties, dresses were skirts, which originated in the Han Dynasty. In the Jin dynasty, it had the characteristics of short coat and wide skirt. There was a time when full-toe shoes and high-toothed shoes (a kind of lacquer-painted clogs) were popular. On the other hand, influenced by the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, ethnic minorities wear Hanfu. In the 18th year of Taihe (494), after Xianbei Northern Wei moved its capital to Luoyang, Emperor Xiaowen of Wei promoted the policy of sinicization, changed his surname to Tuoba, and led hundreds of officials to wear Han and Wei costumes. It turns out that Xianbei people are wearing small sleeve clothes with collars. This reform of the old customs, called "filial piety reform", has enabled the old system of crown clothing to continue since the Qin and Han Dynasties and promoted the development of China's clothing culture.
Clothing in the Sui and Tang Dynasties (58 1 ~ 907) During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was divided and unified, and its economy and culture were prosperous. The development of clothing presents an unprecedented brilliant scene in materials and styles. Colorful brocade is a kind of silk woven with various colors and patterns, which is often used as half-arm and collar clothing. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors. Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns can be divided into multicolor overprint dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades, and patterns to indicate official ranks. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties was full of fashion flavor, which often developed from palace women's clothing to folk, and was imitated in succession, and was often influenced by northwest nationalities. The most fashionable women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties was short skirt, that is, long skirt with short coat, and the waist of the skirt was tied with silk ribbon, almost reaching the armpit. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied as a chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk. Women's hair accessories in Tang Dynasty are various, each with its own name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of splendid fabrics, colored silks and leather. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. During the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan, new Hu clothes were very popular.
The costumes of the Song, Liao, Xia, Jin and Yuan Dynasties (947 ~ 1368) basically retained the style of Han costumes in the Song Dynasty. In the Yuan Dynasty, textiles included Nashijiajinjin, Hunjinzuozi, Jindianzi, Douluojin, Sanliluo, Daling, Xiaoxing, Nansi, Beisi, Hibiscus and Fanjin. During the Yuan Dynasty, there were 10 many times a year. At that time, thousands of officials wore high-grade dresses with the same color and style and decorated with gems and jewels, which was called high-quality sun clothes, which was rare in past dynasties. In the Ming dynasty, this kind of clothing was used as a police costume.
Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368 ~1911) was dominated by traditional Han costumes in Ming Dynasty, and Manchu costumes were the mainstream in Qing Dynasty. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius had "evil purple to take Zhu also", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and one on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. Usually, T-shirts are distinguished by the length of clothes and the size of sleeves, and the old ones are the most respected. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded towels, and the wings of his hat stood up from behind. The official robe wears lacquered yarn with spreading wings and often wears his duties. The wives and mothers of the banned officials also have red big sleeve dresses with different stripes and decorations and various summer shawls. In addition, high heels have been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown. Apart from the old hats that have been popular since the Tang and Song Dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, which were promulgated throughout the country and used by ordinary people. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called a square nipple; One is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means equality in all countries and unity in the world. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the regulations on wearing colored epaulettes were promulgated, abolishing the crown clothes with strong colors of Han nationality. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing Dynasty, the hair was blown into braided hair, the braids hung behind the head, wearing thin horseshoe cufflinks, tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different. The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. A jacket is a coat added to a robe, named after it originated from riding a jacket. It is characterized by a slit at the front and back, and a blue chest (disc for the king of Prince Edward County). Buzi's bird and beast patterns and order are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. The official hats of the Qing dynasty are completely different from those of previous dynasties. Military and political personnel above non-commissioned officers and officers wear weft hats that look like hats, which are divided into warm hats and cool hats according to winter and summer seasons. They were also dressed in "coats" of different colors and materials, and a bunch of peacock feathers were dragged behind their hats. Ling is called Hualing. There are "eyes" (round spots on feathers) on the senior ling, which can be divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes. More eyes are more expensive, and only princes or ministers with outstanding achievements are rewarded. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as the influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors have gradually become popular among officials and gentry, and become ordinary costumes. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk weaving, embroidery, printing and dyeing and various manual occupations created conditions for the richness of clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them. Manchu women wear "flag clothes", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two ends) and wear "flowerpot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so-called cheongsam circulated in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies of the Han nationality.
Jiangnan shuixiang clothing
Rural women living in Jiaozhi, Shengpu, Weiting and Mu Chen in Wuxian, eastern Suzhou, still retain traditional folk costumes. They have been wearing traditional costumes characterized by combing their hair, wearing headscarves, sewing shirts, trousers, cambodian skirts, wrapped arms and embroidered shoes, which are quite characteristic of Jiangnan water town, so they are called "Suzhou ethnic minorities".
Women in water towns attach great importance to combing their hair and grooming their heads. They showed their intelligence, dignity and beauty with their black hair, huge hair and numerous ornaments, supplemented by exquisite Baotou interiors and costumes. Its clothing has strong local characteristics and stable inheritance, but there are obvious differences with the change of seasons, the difference of age and the need of etiquette. Generally speaking, in spring and autumn, the characteristics of spring and autumn clothing are particularly prominent. The spring and autumn clothes are mainly spliced shirts, and the fabrics are mainly printed cloth, homespun cloth and dark thin stone forest cloth. The color contrast is bright, fresh but not bright, bright but not vulgar. They are usually made by splicing fabrics of several colors, with appropriate tailoring, fine sewing and strong decoration. Its characteristics are also reflected in the decoration technology of clothing in Song Dynasty: splicing, edge rolling, new climbing, belt decoration, embroidery and so on. Pants are mostly made of blue and white printed cloth or white and blue printed cloth, and pants are made of blue or black stone forest cloth. At first, due to the limitation of fabric width and material saving, these garments were spliced. When splicing, they all pay attention to the formal beauty of neatness, balance and symmetry from the splicing of actual needs to the splicing of subjective consciousness. The skirt at the waist is also very distinctive, knee-length and extremely thin. There are floral decorations with different techniques on the shelf and skirt, and a small waistline is tied outside the skirt, which is an auxiliary part associated with the skirt. There is a big pocket sewn on the waist, and various patterns are embroidered around the waist and belt, which is an important ornament in the clothing. The design of the skirt is very practical. Get a stubborn skirt at work, so that your back won't catch cold easily, and standing can also increase your waist strength. The hem is large, which does not affect the action, is beneficial to paddy field operation, is convenient for field covering, and is practical and beautiful. But the characteristics of water shoes are also very strong. The form of shoes is quite like a boat, regardless of left and right, so they are also called boat-shaped embroidered shoes. The vamp consists of two performers. The vamp is mainly embroidered with bright colors and colorful patterns. Boat shoes are fine, durable, strong and affordable, and are traditional etiquette shoes for women in water towns.