1, ancient female facial makeup steps

In addition to makeup, ancient women's facial makeup also included forehead yellow, flower shape, oblique red, makeup and lip hook. The makeup process can be roughly divided into seven steps: the first step is to apply lead powder, the second step is to apply rouge, the third step is to apply eyebrows, the fourth step is to apply forehead yellow (or applique cymbals), the fifth step is to apply oblique red, and the seventh step is to apply lip fat.

2. Front yellow

The forehead yellow, also known as "goose yellow" and "crow yellow", is an ancient decoration. Named for painting his forehead with yellow pigment.

According to historical records, it was a popular custom for women to paint their foreheads yellow after the Northern and Southern Dynasties. The appearance of this decoration has a certain relationship with the popularity of Buddhism.

According to the literature, there are two ways to decorate ancient women's foreheads with yellow, one is caused by painting, and the other is caused by paste.

The so-called painting dyeing is to dip a yellow brush on your forehead. There are two specific painting methods: one is flat painting, that is, the whole forehead is painted with yellow; The other is the semi-painting method, which does not completely draw the forehead, but only draws half, up or down, and then transitions with clear water, showing a smudge.

Compared with dyeing pictures, the pasting rules are simpler. This kind of forehead yellow is a flaky ornament made of yellow material, which is dipped in glue and stuck to the forehead when used. Because it can be cut into various patterns, it is also called "flower yellow". In a sense, it has left the yellow circle of the forehead and is closer to the decoration of the flower bud.

Step 3: flower buds

Bud is also a kind of forehead decoration.

It was more common for women to use flower buds in Tang Dynasty.

From the color point of view, the color of flower buds is much richer than the yellow forehead. Positive yellow generally only uses one color; But the bud is colorful, and its color is usually determined by the material itself, such as gold foil, black glossy paper, white fish cheekbones and so on. Some are dyed in various colors according to the needs of the pattern. The most wonderful thing is a kind of "Cuiwei", which is made of various kingfisher feathers. The whole ornament is turquoise, fresh and unique, full of humor.

Glue for sticking flower buds, mainly glue. This kind of glue is produced in the north. It is said that it is made of swim bladder, which has excellent adhesion and can be used to stick arrows. A woman can stick a bud on it, breathe into it, and dip it in a small amount of oral liquid to dissolve the paste. When removing makeup, apply hot water to remove makeup.

4. Oblique red

Oblique red is a decoration on women's cheeks. Female figurines unearthed from tombs in the Tang Dynasty often have two red crescent-shaped patterns on their faces. These decorations are rich in color and strange in image, and some of them are deliberately depicted as broken. From a distance, they look like two scars on a white face. This kind of makeup is called "oblique red".

From the image point of view, the oblique red on women's faces in the Tang Dynasty is generally depicted in temples. The neat shape is like a string moon, and the complicated shape is like a scar. Sometimes, in order to create a broken feeling, you will get rouge dizzy and look like blood.

5. Front roller

Face roller is different from this, it is a kind of decoration applied to dimples on cheeks, also called makeup roller. It is said that the note on a woman's face is not for decoration, but a special mark in court life. A certain period of empresses has come, and I can't accept the emperor's "imperial luck", so it's hard to say. As long as they click two dots on their faces, women's history won't list their names. Later, this practice spread to the people and gradually became a decoration.

The method of daubing dough figurines is usually rouge, or gold foil, jade feather, etc. , like a flower bud. Before the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the specific shape of makeup enamel was generally made into two points like soybeans. After the prosperous Tang dynasty, the range of noodles was expanded and the styles were richer: some were shaped like coins, called "money points"; Some are shaped like apricot peaches and are called "apricots". The exquisite surface is decorated with various flowers around the original surface, commonly known as "flower enamel".

After the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, due to economic and political reasons, China's clothing gradually tended to be introverted and conservative, but women's cosmetic atmosphere was enhanced.

Step 6 nod your lips

In ancient women's face ornaments, there was a custom of lips. The so-called touching the lips is to apply lip fat to the lips. The appearance of this kind of cosmetology, like other forms of female makeup, is also determined by the aesthetics of ancient society. As early as the pre-Qin period, the phenomenon of advocating the beauty of women's lips appeared in China society.

In the Tang Dynasty, oral fat was used by both men and women. However, the names of these two oral fats are different. Oral fat for men, generally colorless, is transparent anti-crack red. Lip fat for women is mainly for decoration, so it contains color. Because the color of lip fat has a strong hiding ability, it can be used to change the mouth shape. Thick lips can be turned into thin lips, and big lips can be turned into small lips, so the art of painting lips appeared.

With the change of social atmosphere and the evolution of aesthetic taste, people's lip style has also undergone a series of changes, and the lip style in each period has some characteristics. This situation can be seen from the paintings of ladies, murals and pottery figurines in various periods. Generally speaking, China women's lips are petite and colorful, but despite the ever-changing specific forms, this basic feature remains unchanged. It is generally believed that the most ideal and beautiful mouth shape should be petite and bright like a cherry. Bai Juyi's Su Fan's mouth is said to have these characteristics, so it is called "cherry Su Fan mouth". In order to meet this requirement, when applying makeup powder, women often put the original lips together and then reapply them with lip fat.

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1. Hairstyles of ancient women

The comb dress of ancient women includes three parts: hairstyle, makeup and jewelry. Hairstyle is one of the most important decorative forms of human beings, and the coordination of hairstyle and clothing can constitute the overall beauty of characters' appearance. Hair accessories in ancient China can be divided into three types: bun, knot and braid. Fu, or hairpin, appeared as early as the Neolithic Age, and since then, people have started to comb their hair from hair to hair. The quilt has two purposes: calming the hair and strengthening the crown. Hair accessories for men and women in ancient times. Not only that, but also a sign of whether ancient women got married as adults. In the ancient three generations, women's hairstyles in China were relatively simple, and there were not many ornaments. After Qin and Han Dynasties, hair accessories became more and more complicated. Since then, women's bun style has become an important decorative content. The famous styles of hair bun in the past dynasties include horse-falling bun, bun, nine-fragrant bun, double bun, concentric bun, high bun, bun, flower bun, big pull wing and so on.

2. Makeup and jewelry of ancient women

The basic cosmetics for women are eyebrow makeup, powder cake, rouge and flower bud. Eyebrows are used for thrusting. Female recruitment began in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. There is a saying in The Songs of the South: "White and black are used to paint incense." It's just that in ancient times, women pulled out their real eyebrows and replaced them with fake eyebrows. In addition to black, the color of the Dai people is green, which was called Cuimei in ancient times. Cuiwei originated in the pre-Qin Dynasty and flourished in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. The popularity of black eyebrows began in the Tang Dynasty, which was related to Yang Guifei's advocacy. As the saying goes, "When the new makeup is abandoned, the six palaces compete to draw black eyebrows" (Volume 474 of Complete Tang Poetry, Xu Ning's Song in the Palace). In a word, ancient women thrush advocated artificial beauty, which is different from modern women's advocating natural beauty. In ancient times, rice flour was originally made of rice flour, or red was added to the surface. It was not until the Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties that lead white powder and rouge with red and blue flowers and Soviet wood appeared. Rouge is also called Yan Zhi, Yan Zhi and Yan Zhi. In ancient times, rouge was made into paste and powder, and it was also coated on paper or soaked in silk floss to make rouge paper and rouge sponge, which was applied to cheeks or used as lip fat. Flower buds, also known as flower seeds and flatterers, are generally made of gold foil, paper, fishbone and dragonfly wings into ornaments of various shapes and pasted on the forehead, sideburns, cheeks or corners of the mouth. The "yellow flower" in Mulan Ci and the "yellow flower" in the ancient poem "Qing Mei" both refer to flowers. In ancient times, women's jewelry included ornaments, hairpins, walking stones, combs and so on. In addition, there are ornaments on ears, hands and fingers, which are called Erdang, pin bracelet and ring respectively, but the wearing methods and functions of these ornaments are different from the beginning.

I suggest you buy a book to read ... China Dynasties by Li Ya.

This book introduces in detail the basic development of cosmetics in China during the long historical period from primitive society to the end of the 20th century. The content mainly includes makeup and hairstyle. Among them, makeup is subdivided into painting, tattoo, female facial makeup, eyebrow makeup, eye makeup, humiliating makeup, facial decoration, hair care and skin care products, foot binding and male makeup; Hairstyles are divided into men's hairstyles and women's hairstyles, which basically cover all aspects of the cosmetics field. And the decorative characteristics of each historical period are summarized. It is a more detailed academic work to study the history and culture of China.

As for modern times, the word "fashion" is undoubtedly the most widely used. However, fashion has existed since ancient times, and like today, it has been refurbished and changed rapidly. Some women's cosmetics popular in ancient China are even similar to some fashions today, such as painting black lips, sticking gold foil and jewels on the face, and opening flared trousers outside. "Underwear is worn outside (it was originally a close-fitting bust, and later it was partially exposed and became part of the coat), and so on.

However, no matter how ancient fashion changes, one thing remains unchanged, that is, it is completely different from contemporary fashion in guiding concept. For thousands of years, both at home and abroad, women's hairstyles and clothes are beautiful in complexity. To put it bluntly, it is inconvenient for women to move.

Suggested reference: Author Yuan