The characteristics of Beijing snacks are very unique. The biggest difference with snacks in other regions is that, in addition to those from the people, some of them are taken from the people, and then selected as court snacks by the royal family, and then scattered from the court to the people. This process is very unique.

Let's talk about it from several aspects:

First, local snacks has obvious national characteristics.

Beijing has a capital history of more than 3,000 years and has long been the political, economic and cultural center of the country.

Italy Kyle? Poirot praised Beijing as the "richest city" in the13rd century. "There are many residents in the city ... they all have big houses ... and all kinds of things are imported, which seems to be endless".

He also said: "No other city in the world can compare with the huge foreign objects and everything imported by this city." Beijing, one of the six ancient capitals of China, especially after it became the capital city in Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, people of all ethnic groups gathered here one after another, bringing their own ethnic delicacies.

Especially in Yuan Dynasty and Qing Dynasty, Mongols and Manchus brought ethnic food to Beijing after they ruled the Central Plains.

The Yuan Dynasty was a great empire spanning Europe and Asia. Kublai Khan, who launched a war of foreign aggression and "only knew how to shoot an eagle with a bow", was a nomadic man, good at riding and shooting, and acted quickly. In the army of Kingoma Iron, it is not appropriate to concentrate on cooking.

Soldiers put their helmets upside down on the fire to hold water, so that people can rinse the slaughtered mutton and simply add seasoning to eat it. Very fast and convenient, and finally evolved into a popular instant-boiled mutton in Beijing.

I also brought milk tea made of cheese and flour tea made of oil milk skin.

According to Yanjing Folk Food, during the reign of Gui You in Jiaqing (18 13), Shuo Ting wrote "Zhi Zhu Ci": "Milk tea has a unique Beijing flavor, and cheese is like ice soaked teeth.

The name is Carla, and the color is black. I buy a cup of tea for a penny. "Original note:" The tea shop only sells cheese, and the rest uses milk as tea, which is called milk tea, and the oil skin and milk skin as tea, which is called flour tea.

Cooking tea is called carrara tea, and Kara is a Mongolian. "There is also a kind of tea that cooks brown rice with soup, called' children's tea'." Its method began in Mongolia and scholars imitated it. "

During the Yongle period of the Ming Dynasty, the capital moved from Nanjing to Beijing, and the imperial troops whose ancestral homes were on both sides of the Yangtze River retired and settled in Beijing. Farmers and businessmen who moved to Beijing brought southern rice planting techniques and cooking methods for making rice cakes, and snacks made from rice came into being in Beijing.

Later, it was borrowed by * * * and transplanted into * * * snacks, becoming a unique food of * * *.

Manchu snacks also came to Beijing after the Qing soldiers entered the customs, especially after the capital entered the customs. Typical varieties, such as Saqima, go through two processes: cutting Manchu into Saqifei and "coding" into Ma Lu, so the first two words are regarded as Saqima.

Some people say that Beijing snacks are a colorful picture in Beijing historical picture books. As Xiao Fuxing, a Beijing writer, said, "Most of them originated from flag bearers." He believed that Beijing snacks mainly originated from the imperial meals of the Qing Dynasty.

According to textual research, inby, pea yellow, minced meat biscuits, steamed corn buns, etc. Really flowed into the people from the imperial dining hall of the Qing Dynasty.

When it comes to Beijing snacks, you can't help but mention * * * * snacks.

According to Ms. Ma Jing, who lives in niujie and has a good knowledge of * * * food culture, in the second year of Tang Yonghui (65 1), marked by the first meeting of * * * envoys with Tang Gaozong in Chang 'an, Tang Dou, * * * religion was introduced to China. Later, a large number of businessmen went to China to do business, dealing in jewelry and medicinal materials, and brought spices such as cardamom, pepper and fennel and other edible spices.

Due to Genghis Khan's massive expedition to the west in the Yuan Dynasty, hundreds of thousands of people and Persians were forced to move eastward and settle in China, and niujie was one of the places where they settled.

* * * * * food also spread to Beijing, as evidenced by the large collection of * * * food in the Yuan Dynasty's Eating Rice.

* * * Compatriots are hardworking, intelligent and creative.

While forming their own national food culture, they are good at absorbing the essence of their brothers' food culture and creating a * * * food culture different from other nationalities, among which snacks are even more precious.

The Qing court's discriminatory policy towards * * * resulted in poverty and lack of culture in niujie. In order to make a living, it has also formed the professional characteristics of "two knives and eight ropes".

However, in order to make a living, the craft is becoming more and more refined and the management is becoming more and more shrewd, and there are distinctive snack varieties that are unconventional and competitive.

Since it has been handed down from generation to generation, some unique phenomena of Beijing snacks have also appeared, such as "sheep's head horse", "bean paste Zhang", "fried belly stone" and "cut cake Yang".

* * * snacks have greatly enriched Beijing snacks, forming a pattern that Beijing snacks are mainly * * * snacks.

Of course, there are also fine snacks of other nationalities in Beijing snacks.

For example, fried liver, stewed small intestine and lard rice cakes in Han snacks are also very distinctive.

There are also some snack varieties related to Beijing becoming the imperial examination room. For example, Tang mutton was a Shaoxing guest who took the imperial examination in Beijing during Xianfeng period. Because he was unfilial, he brewed soup and mutton with the secret recipe handed down from his family, and opened a Pearl Zhai in the north of the south exit of the deep ditch outside Qianmen to supply soup and mutton.

Han food is like soup and mutton in Beijing, and stinky tofu in Wang Zhihe.

This unique phenomenon in Beijing is not found in other cities.

Since the reform and opening up, it has become a trend to gather in Beijing from all directions.

For example, Dai customs in the western regions, Tibetan plateau cuisine, roasted whole sheep, mutton kebabs and hand-grabbed meat in Xinjiang, and ancient barbecue food in South Korea have all appeared in the streets of Beijing and become part of Beijing-style snacks.

The gathering of ethnic foods in Beijing snacks is not so much the development of cooking itself as the frequent activities of social interaction. It is better to say that the ethnic food on the streets of Beijing now is the expression of the centripetal force of all ethnic groups, and 56 ethnic groups love Beijing, which is the internal reason for the development of ethnic snacks in Beijing.

Second, local snacks has obvious local customs and culture.

Beijing has a long history, and the life of old Beijingers is also colorful.

The customs and habits of old Beijingers are almost all related to snack varieties, thus injecting a strong local color into Beijing snack culture.

From Spring Festival to birthday celebrations, there are many traditional festivals in China, and Beijing is no exception.

Pay attention to what food to eat on holidays, and understand it with reference to the height of "ceremony".

On New Year's Day, you should eat "flat food", and that is jiaozi.

Beginning of spring wants to make double cakes with hot noodles and sesame oil. When eating, put two pieces flat, put them in a cake dish, roll them up and eat them from beginning to end.

Cake dishes are very particular. You should use shallots and sweet noodle sauce, and add cooked shredded pork to the cake. Or eat "stir-fry", stir-fry or mix bean sprouts and vermicelli. More useful are spinach and leeks, day lilies, fungus and other stir-fry dishes.

Green vegetables are intended to keep good spring and send good luck, so eating spring cakes is called "biting spring".

Eating rice cakes in the first month, in order to get the good luck of "rising year by year", Liu Ruoyu's History of the Forbidden City also said: "On the second day of February, every family fried jujube cakes with millet noodles, or made pancakes with noodles and thin stalls, which is called' smoked insects'.

On March 18, Dongyue Temple served incense, and ate roasted chicken with bamboo shoots, cold cakes, steamed glutinous rice noodles, sugar, and chopped sesame seeds, that is, crispy rice. Xuan Shi's "Legacy of Old Beijing" in the Ming Dynasty records: "Officials from Beijing and North Korea send zongzi at the Dragon Boat Festival and cakes at Chongyang." In the third year of Tongzhi (1864), Jia Zi inscribed "Hua Zhai" and "Du Men Zayong", which contained Wang Jiacheng's words of chanting moon cakes and flower cakes: "Red and white hairs are turned into fine, and the Mid-Autumn Festival is given to all parts of Gyeonggi." "The Mid-Autumn Festival is too close to Chongyang, and there are flowers and cakes everywhere.

Jujube and chestnut with double layers on the surface can be proud of Liu Lang. Another book said: "Before the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month, red dates were mashed and soaked in water. On the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month, porridge cooked with japonica rice, walnuts, chestnuts and water chestnuts is called Laba porridge. " The above information provides a scene of what snacks to eat at any festival in Beijing, which was answered by Confucius in The Analects of Confucius. Discussion on "not eating from time to time" in the chapter of rural party.

This custom of "not eating from time to time" even appeared in one day. According to Mr. Zhang Jiangzai's Historical Records of Yanjing Folk Diet, "every morning, almond tea, bean curd sauce, tea soup, cut cake and bean curd brain are sold in every street, bean dregs cake, steamed bean curd, bean curd porridge and old bean curd are sold in the afternoon, and hard noodles are sold in the evening. In fact, there are many varieties unique to this land, such as mutton hot pot.

In the 18th year of Guangxu (1892), Tongxiang, Zhejiang Province, who once lived in Beijing, wrote a poem "Remembering Kyoto", which was compared with that in the south: "Recalling that the winter windows of Kyoto were airtight, people gathered around the stove to drink and cheer, and all kinds of flavors melted into a small pot, unlike here where the wind was full of charcoal and the cherry fire was poisonous." Here, he wrote about the fun of family reunion and eating hot pot in a sealed cabin.

With the development of instant-boiled mutton hotpot, the variety of its raw materials is not limited to mutton, nor is it limited to eating only in winter.

Hot pot has also been greatly improved. On the basis of rinsing, a fountain hot pot with integrated rinsing and roasting is added, which is popular in Beijing, indicating that cookware develops with the progress of science and technology and promotes the progress of snack cooking culture.

Shuan hotpot is very popular and has become a major feature of Beijing.

Different ethnic groups living in Beijing have different dietary customs in sacrificial activities and weddings.

For example, when the Mongols worship their ancestors, they should fry yellow rice with butter and put it in a shallow bowl of birch, which is called "Lala"; Manchu ancestors offered walnut cakes and hibiscus cakes, and also made yellow and white "thimble cakes" with yellow wheat and rice noodles. * * * Weddings, funerals and wedding banquets should be fried with flour. The wedding oil is sweet, smaller, and the funeral oil is bigger, which is fried with salt.

In a word, Beijing snacks are produced with people's customs, which reflects its unique locality.

The locality of Beijing snacks is also manifested in the form of eating. For example, after autumn, we should eat instant-boiled mutton and roast beef.

Old Beijingers eat roast beef and loosen the firewood under the iron grill. They bake and eat by themselves. When eating, they stand with one foot and one foot on the bench, showing their unique boldness and boldness.

"Dumen Zayong" records: "The barbecue is delicious in winter, and the front of the big wine jar is surrounded.

It is best to roast cattle with tender meat and get drunk and burn knives in snowy days. "("burning knife "is the name of wine.

According to Mr. Jin Shoushen, the bowls used to sell wine in the big jars were all black horseshoe bowls, which were quite poetic and antique.

In "Hundred Chants of Food in the Old Capital", the scene of eating barbecue is very vivid: "Thick smoke makes you cry, and the light of firewood makes you drunk."

A plate full of raw food depends on a barbecue, so it is still close to barbarians. "It can be described as incisively and vividly, saying nothing.

The sales culture of Beijing snacks has the same local characteristics as Beijing snack culture.

In order to sell their snacks quickly, people who buy and sell snacks, many varieties are shouting while doing, and the rhyme is beautiful.

For example, hard cakes are sold along the street in the middle of the night and sent to residents' hospitals by the cold wind of winter nights.

Some people describe its hawking sound as: "The cake is moving skillfully along the street, and the sound is loud through the light window, which is incredibly difficult to spread the night and shock a pair of dreams." In the streets of Beijing, there are many food stalls selling steamed buns. They lifted the lid of the cage and shouted, "It's just cooked-eat it while it's hot". Introduce the newly-made information to passers-by through steaming cigarettes to attract customers to buy. Someone wrote this scene in a poem: "There are the most kinds of steamed buns, and there are new drawers in the pot.

Sweet and salty meat never returns to Han. How about a few flavors? The sound of selling snacks in Beijing is smooth and melodious, which evokes many people's childhood memories and unique yearning for their homeland, and inspires people's love for Beijing. However, due to the different times and the change of sales methods, the cry of selling snacks has become a rare history.

Third, the unique skills of Beijing snacks.

The national and local characteristics of Beijing snacks are also reflected in the skills of making snacks. For example, the baked wheat cake in Beijing snacks is a popular food, crispy and delicious, and has won the love of the masses for many years.

Its production requirements are very high, for example, the ratio of noodles to sesame paste should be appropriate, and more sesame paste will be bitter and not fragrant; The thickness of dough and the degree of yeast distribution according to different seasons are all particular.

The biscuits that meet the requirements have neat appearance, yellow color and crisp taste. After cutting, there must be more than 20 layers in it to be qualified.

Therefore, you can't do it well without skills and experience. Cooking skill is a process of long-term experience accumulation and cooking culture deposition.

Another example is Baishui Yangtou in Beijing, where the materials are very particular. Only 20 sheep heads were sold every day.

He personally went to the slaughterhouse to choose the sheep head that must be white hair. The age of sheep is strict, about one and a half years old.

After you come back, wash it inside and out, pull out the tongue of the mutton, brush it with a brush, and cook it according to the tenderness.

Salt and pepper should be refined from clove, pepper and salt. Stir-fry until brown, grind into fine powder, and put it in a container made of horn that is not easy to get wet and stink.

When selling, cut the sheep's head with a big curved knife, and peel every piece of meat.

When selling sheep's head meat, there were many onlookers, competing to see him use a piece of blade meat and operation skills.

Sheep's head meat tastes excellent and won the appreciation of the people and cultural celebrities.

"Miscellaneous Poems on Yanjing Snacks" records: "In October, Yanjing, the cold wind is cold, the sheep's head is on the market, and the flavor is endless.

Salt is sprinkled like snow, and it is thinly cut into the same paper. "It takes a lot of skill. According to Chen Liansheng, a snack expert and deputy general manager of Beijing Xiangda Restaurant Group (formerly manager of Nan Laishun), it is a pity that no one can inherit this skill at present.

Coincidentally, the pig's head meat of Han nationality in Beijing is a kind of cooked and smoked snack, but it is not called pig's head meat in Beijing, but smoked fish.

Its slicing technique is also superb, as evidenced by a poem: "A pig's head is not called smoked fish, but it is cut into pieces like paper by skillful hands.

It's hot enough to chew, and the sunset red cabinet goes to the street. "Because the producers who sell this snack wear red cabinets every day at sunset and shout smoked fish to walk the streets, there is a saying that' sunset red cabinets walk the streets'.

There is a poem about pies in Hundred Chants of Food in the Old Capital: "If you live in Chang 'an, you can't eat in Shu Ren.".

Up to now, there has been a pie week in front of Meishi Street. "It's about the gathering hall on the street outside Qianmen Coal Market, which is famous for making pies. Shopkeeper Zhou Xiaoting is known as "Pie Week" for her excellent pies.

The original "Pie Week" had very strict requirements on the feeding of pies. The tender part of fresh beef should be chopped with pure scallion, and the meat should be chopped into minced meat with a knife, so that the noodles made are thin and smooth in your hands.

Wrap this thin dough into a round cake with a diameter of 2 inches and a height of 1 inch, and fry it in a pan, which is golden yellow.

Pie with thin skin and big stuffing, the skin does not break, the stuffing does not leak, a bite, the juice is fresh and the skin is crisp, which is really rare, so it has become a must in Beijing and is famous far and wide.

There are also many high-quality products among the Han people. In Dumen Zayong, Yang Jingting wrote about the wonton in Zhimeizhai, the shredded chicken noodles in Fuxingju, and the steamed dumplings with crab meat in Xiaoyoufang in Qing Dynasty, praising: "Wonton is more delicious than usual, ... and it tastes long after being swallowed." Chicken noodles are "as white as silver and as thin as silk, and the cooked chicken juice is slightly purple"; Writing steamed dumplings is "a jade plate holds a pile of snow, and the thin skin also needs crab yellow."

Write down the mouth-watering taste shapes of these varieties.

It is impossible without superb cooking.

This technique embodies the cooking characteristics of China with color, aroma, taste, shape, taste (texture), nourishment (health preservation) and taste as the core.

It is not only the expression of personal cooking skills, but also the accumulation and summary of China's cooking experience for thousands of years.

Beijing snacks, with their characteristics of economy, convenience and elegance, have become the ties and bridges between people, which fully embodies the truth that the more national things are, the more cosmopolitan they are.

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