Women's dresses in Tang Dynasty. Tang Gaozu promulgated the "Five Decrees", which includes: the queen's clothes are divided into three classes, namely, royal clothes, bow robes and hairpin robes. The hairpin dress includes the gold and jade hairpin on the dress and bun, and its status is clearly defined by the number of hairpin. There are records in the history books of the Tang Dynasty, such as Tongdian, Yao Hui, Imperial Servant System of the Old Tang Dynasty, Car Service System of the New Tang Dynasty and Opening Ethan. "Fu Cha etiquette, inside the myobu often participate, outside the myobu to attend, speech, ceremony. Make the same clothes, add double accessories, one product is nine cymbals, two products are eight cymbals, three products are seven cymbals, four products are six cymbals, and five products are five cymbals. " .

Li Yi's Clothing —— Significance

Now let's analyze the dress of Dianchai. Since "clothes make the same clothes", hairpin dresses should also be deep clothes; The argument that the hairpin dress is a kind of skirt dress comes from the History of China Clothing by Shen Congwen, a master of China clothing history. In the book, he pointed out that from the prosperous Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties, the layered dresses worn by Dunhuang diners were hairpin etiquette clothes, such as the mural "Laotinggui" in Cave No.1 103 of Mogao Grottoes. This kind of clothing system is not a special case. Many Dunhuang murals, such as "The Statue of Empress Cao Shi in Khotan", have found this kind of layered and regular clothing, as well as the symbolic level of people's bun and hairpin, all of which have some institutional characteristics. In view of Mr. Shen Congwen's rigorous research attitude, it is not rigorous to easily overthrow this view according to those books on etiquette written before the middle Tang Dynasty.

The textual research on Yue Chai Li Yi is really a difficult problem, because it has never been seen before, and it only appears in the history books and ritual books of the Tang Dynasty, with few handed down objects. In addition, there is a phenomenon that can't be ignored: the Tang Dynasty is an era of mixed customs and extremes meet, and many ceremonies in the history of China began in the Tang Dynasty. Significantly, the royal family has always respected the ancient ritual system. For example, if you look at the etiquette books in the Tang Dynasty, you will find that the strict observance of etiquette in the Zhou Dynasty may be caused by the pain of China's dress etiquette confusion for more than 300 years, which triggered the deep yearning of China ancestors for classics. For example, Tang wrote the six rites of marriage into Tang law. However, between ideal and reality, solemnity and celebration, there is always a beautiful peak of prosperity skillfully and interestingly. Even though the upper level strongly advocated the formal etiquette system, the miscellaneous gifts and different clothes initiated by the bottom people still led the way and eventually eroded to the upper level.

Before Tianbao, in the middle Tang Dynasty and even in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the fashion of clothing was like a world of difference. In short, what exactly is a gift package for issuing cards? What does it have to do with the donor "uniform" in Dunhuang murals from the prosperous Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties? Is there any change in the clothing system? Much remains to be tested.

Tang system, imperial costume, crown of Daegu, dragon crown, There are twelve headdresses, embroidered headdresses, Xuan noodles, headdresses, black clothes, black street mugs, white gauze hats, plain scarf mugs and white hats.

Bare fur, eight inches wide and one foot six inches long. In the mysterious Qiu Li, it is already different in width. Gold ornaments, jade hairpin guide, with the group as the tassel, the color is like its belt. Fur made of black lambskin, mysterious collar, skirt and lapel. Zhu Shang, wearing white gauze, soap collar, green sash, sash, belt, jade hook, sash, large sash, plain sash with Zhu Li, outside the sash, there is Zhu on the top and green on the bottom, and the new button group is also used. Cover the paint with a skirt. Lu Lu Yu has a sword and a fireball escort. White jade double layer, Xuan group double layer, six colors, Xuan, yellow, red, white, pale, green and pure Xuan. It is 20 feet long, 500 songs, and 1 foot wide. The small double ribbon is two feet and one inch long, the same color as the big ribbon, and there are three jade rings in the middle. Red socks, red socks. Sacrifice the land of the gods and serve them only.

It is crowned with gold ornaments, with twelve white beads hanging down, with the group as the tassel, the color as its tassel, full of ears and the Hosta as the guide. Xuanyi, Shang Meng, clothes, sun, moon, stars, dragons, mountains, insects, fire and Zong Yi in Chapter 12 and Chapter 8; The fourth chapter is about the dress, algae, pink rice, flounder, glutinous rice, clothes and collar, which are promoted to dragons and woven into them. Each is six levels, under the dragon and the mountain, with one line and twelve lines in each chapter. Single collar, blue, blue, blue, blue, black. Embroidering dragons, mountains and fire, the rest are the same as above. Belt, big belt, sword, sash and ribbon are the same as above. Add gold ornaments to the pot. Sacrifice the temple, send the generals, collect them, drink them, practice them, add money to take them, collect them, and take them if they are subjected to the DPRK on January 1.

Crown, seven chapters, three chapters in clothes, China worm, fire, Zong Yi; The fourth chapter is in petticoats, algae, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice.

I'm like a crown. If you have something to return to God, take it. The clothes in the crown, chapter five and chapter three, Zong Yi, seaweed and powdered rice; The second chapter is petticoats, Fu and Fu. Yu Tong? Crown. Sacrificing Haiyue is to serve it. Embroidered crown, three chapters, one chapter in clothes, and rice powder; The second chapter is petticoats, Fu and Fu. Yu Tong was crowned, offering sacrifices for the country and the emperor's society. Xuanmian clothes, clothes without chapters, with thorns on them. Yu Tong embroidered the crown. La Worship gods, sooner or later. Crown Tian Tong, Jiajinbo Mountain, guided by Twelve Cicadas, Zhu Cui Shi, Heijiege, Cuisui Faying and Jade as rhinoceros. In crimson yarn and white yarn, knitting is used to decorate singles, collars and jackets. You Zhu, you, white skirt, white skirt. And skirts. Crimson veil paint, white fake belt, square heart bent collar. Its belt, waist seal, sword, ribbon, ribbon and ribbon are the same as above. If you don't take Canadian dollars, you can wear a pair of children's buns, a black coat, a pair of jade guides and Jiabao ornaments. North Korea also offers sacrifices on the winter solstice, the prince in the pavilion, the Yuan Festival and the Winter Festival. Wu Yi, golden cicada and flat towel, the rest are the same as before. Speak martial arts, go out to war, search and hunt at four o'clock, shoot freely, be humble, be suitable for the society, respect the ancestors, punish the society and be strict. Dressed in deerskin. There are two qi in ten, and qi thinks it is the goal. Hosta guide, crimson gauze dress, plain dress, belt, white jade double skirt, small ribbon, white socks, black leather shoes. On the first day, you were convinced. Black lace, white gauze jacket, white skirt, belt, plain socks, black leather shoes. Worship the mausoleum, serve the mausoleum. White gauze hat, also black gauze. A white skirt is also a skirt.

White socks and black shoes. Depending on the trial and banquet, entertain guests. Flat towel decorated with gold treasures. Jade, purple pleats and white pleats are all used in the guide and crown. White beard, jade accessories, real jewelry ribbon. Ride away with it. Bai Biao, if the minister is in mourning, he will accept it.

Emperor Taizong also made wings and crowns, looked at the moon and the DPRK, and practiced skirts with uniforms and silks. If you take pleating, it is also common to use a flat towel. On the order. Its uniforms, red and yellow robes, folded headscarves, nine-chain belts and Liuhe boots all originated from Wei and Zhou Dynasties, which is convenient for military affairs. Since the beginning of Zhenguan, non-Yuan Day, winter solstice, Korea and big festivals have always existed.

In September of the Qing Dynasty, Qiu and officials issued a letter:

Quasi-Wu Dechu wrote "Dress Order", and the son of heaven worshipped heaven and earth and wore a big robe without embarrassment. Chen Wuji, Zhi Ning, Jing Zong and others. I would like to press the cloud of "Special Sacrifice in the Suburb": "At the beginning of the week, it will be fine in the suburbs." "If you stay like a day, two tenths, the number of days is also." And these two gifts are all said to be Zhou Jiao, Zhou Qiu and Daqiu, which are different from each other. According to the "Moon Order": "Meng Dong, the son of heaven began to marry." It is unreasonable to keep out the cold in the Ming Dynasty. If you start praying for the valley, the winter solstice will be reported to the sky, and you will act in a suit. As for welcoming the spirit in summer, the dragon sees it and the inflammation is flourishing. How can we serve it? Looking for the past dynasties, I only serve the chapter, which is in line with the meaning of "suburban special sacrifice". According to Zhou Qian's "Yu Fu Zhi" cloud, Emperor Yongping of Han Dynasty made Zhou Guan and Book of Rites in two years, and only then did he make a service to worship heaven, and the emperor prepared twelve chapters. Shen Yue's Song Shuzhi says: "The suburbs of Wei and Jin Dynasties are also smooth." Wang Zhishen's Song Ji said: "Ming Di made clouds and worshipped heaven and earth with pure jade algae, mysterious clothes and Huang Shang suburbs." After Wei, Zhou, Qi, and the Sui Dynasty, the ritual system and ceremony were investigated. Division is a hundred kings, it's okay to be cold, and there's nothing wrong with the ceremony. Please keep your promise today, and worship heaven and earth in the suburbs, all of which are crowned. Please stop and change the ceremony. Also check the "New Gift", the emperor presented the embroidered crown to the country, with four chapters. On the day of sacrifice, the moon was veiled for three times, and her clothes were in disorder. I want to press: Ling Wen is a four-product and five-product suit, but this time, three public products, all wearing clothes, helping sacrifice and serving? Si is the number of chapters, and you are both doctors. It is absolutely impossible for you to have fewer ministers and more ministers. According to "Zhou Li", it is said: "Worship the sky will make you wear a big robe, and the five emperors will also. Enjoy the coronation of the first king and the first public? Looking at the mountains and rivers, you will be crowned. When you die for your country, you are crowned, and the little one is mysterious. " Another cloud says, "The clothes of dukes, marquises, sons, orphans and doctors are all like the clothes of kings." Therefore, there are two interpretations of "three rites and righteousness". On the day when Dr. Yun Gongqing sacrificed, the clothes he wrote were dedicated to the king. It is also known that Yun is with Wang. The search for compromise has not yet reached an agreement. However, the number of ceremonies varies with different positions. The son of heaven is divided into twelve sections, and the righteousness lies in the law. Are there four chapters and three chapters, all of which have become imperial clothes? If the minister assists in offering sacrifices, the crown will be the same as that of the monarch, that is, there will be no distinction between nobles and princes. If he is not as good as the king, then when the king wrote Xuanmian, the ministers served the nobles for the second time, serving both the emperor and the officials. The word "Zhou Li" has been out of use for a long time. It is still a sacrifice of corpses, the worship of courtiers by relatives, the establishment of nest officials, and the appointment of surnames. Only the Zhou Dynasty is out of reach. Therefore, from the Han and Wei Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty, we inherited the past and only used crowns. Today, the "new gift" pays homage to the sun and the moon, and still takes five clothes. When something happens, it is extremely unstable. Please follow the past dynasties and offer sacrifices and crowns.

This system can be manufactured.

Mowgli and others also said, "The Emperor offered condolences to his ministers and relatives in Wufu, and dressed in plain clothes according to the ceremony. This order is to use Bai Yun, and the ritual order is to take advantage and draw. Moreover, Bai Yan is from modern times, not a matter of nostalgia. Although it is written, it is not feasible. Please put on plain clothes to show politeness. " Go ahead. Natural? The crown has fallen, and I am even more dissatisfied. White-collar workers have been abolished, and the literature has been followed, but I have not changed.

In the winter of the eleventh year of Kaiyuan, Xuanzong had something to do in the southern suburbs. Secretary the Secretariat of the CPC Central Committee also said: "The emperor offered sacrifices to the God of Heaven, took the crown of Qiu, performed' rites' and took its quality. In the second year of Yonghui, Gao Zongqin enjoyed it in the southern suburbs. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, the ceremony was changed to the crown, resulting in "special worship in the suburbs", and its text was also taken. Because you'll need it one day. If you follow the ancient system, you should use a big robe. If it's convenient, Guanmei. " As a result, two dental crowns made by our company are presented, which are slightly covered with big autumn cattails. Without dental crowns, they can't be used in hot and cold weather and are discarded. Naturally, the Yuan Dynasty used the crown and the celestial crown in the order of ritual, and the ceremony also used the crown as a "suburban sacrifice". Because of the rest of the service, although it is in the text, it is no longer used. For seventeen years, I visited the Five Tombs, but I only wore a plain suit. New moon, look at the regular dynasty, also use uniforms, good wings, crown is also useless.

"Wu Deling": The crown prince's clothes include a crown, a three-beam crown that travels with clothes, a crown that travels with public service, a black hat, a flat towel and so on. After the completion of Guan Zhen, the system of taking clothes into the German crown was added.

The dragon is crowned with nine white beads, the group is tassel, the color is like its belt, the green belt is full of ears, and the rhinoceros is the guide. Xuan Yi, Shang Meng, nine chapters. The fifth chapter is about clothes, dragons, mountains, insects in China, fire and Zong Yi. The fourth chapter is in petticoats, algae, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice. Weave it. White yarn is single, collar, blue, thick and thin. Belts, gold hooks, large belts, plain cinnabar, and cinnabar green are all used in groups. Matching the color of the dress, it is divided into two chapters: fire and mountain. Jade has a sword and gold ornaments are treasures. Jade escort. Yu Pei and Yu Pei both wear them, and the Zhu group has two ribbons, four colors, red, white, light green and purple, pure Zhu, ten feet long, three hundred and twenty songs and nine inches wide. The small double ribbon is two feet six inches long, the first half is the same color as the big ribbon, and the second Yuhuan is also used. Red socks are red. Add gold ornaments to the pot. Take part in the emperor's sacrifices and visits, take Canadian dollars and take the princess.

Travel three beams and crowns, add Jin Jiu cicada, apply pearl jade, make black interface, make tassel jade and guide rhinoceros. Crimson gauze robe, wearing white gauze alone, soap collar, quilt, skirt, white skirt quilt, white false belt, square heart bent collar, red gauze covering knee. Its belt, sword, ribbon, ribbon, socks and ribbon are the same as above. Then I used white socks and black silk. Without a crown, there is a double bun, a black cover with an empty top, a pair of jade guides and a jewel. Return to the temple and the palace, enter the DPRK on the winter solstice of the Yuan Dynasty, and offer it when drinking. Public office travels far to the top, as before. Crimson yarn coat, white skirt, belt, gold hook, fake belt, square heart, dispute, and pocket, 6 feet 4 inches long, 2 inches 4 minutes wide, the same color.

White socks and black shoes. 5. Daily clothes, winter solstice will be served by North Korea in January. Flat towel, purple pleat, white quilt, thin belt. Ride away with it. Take a suit of clothes and make it out of deerskin. Rhino guide, group tassel, Yuqijiu, crimson gauze dress, plain dress, belt, small pocket, double dress, white socks, black leather shoes. Looking forward to it, I will accept it when I see it. Into the German crown, nine qi, plus gold ornaments, its regular clothes and white dress to wear. If you take a pleat, it communicates with a flat towel.

Since wearing the Yonghui emblem, it has only been worn as a crown, costume and official business. If you ride a horse, try to get into the German crown and waste the rest. If the banquet costumes, uniforms, purple shirts and robes are the same as those of the king.

In the 26th year of Kaiyuan, Su Zong was promoted to Crown Prince, and he was inscribed. Documents written too often are marked with scarlet robes. The prince thinks that, as the emperor said, the above words are not worthy. Please change it. Xuanzong ordered a hundred officials to discuss in detail. Pei Yaoqing, Prime Minister of Shangshu Zuo, and Xiao Song, Crown Prince, said, "According to the dressing order, the Crown Prince is dressed, and the crown, three beams, nine cicadas are attached with gold, pearl jade, black middle, tassel, rhinoceros guide, crimson gauze robe, single white gauze, soap collar and tassel."

White skirt, square heart bent collar, crimson yarn to cover knees, belt, sword, sash, ribbon, etc. Return to the palace to pay homage to the temple, enter the DPRK from the winter solstice in January, and drink. Its crimson gauze robe is the number of things in the crown, just like skirts, swords and ornaments. As for the difference between noble and lowly, the crown is jewelry, the name system is different, and the number of beads and decorative badges is also somewhat different, so everything can't be different from appearance. There is also a unified service from top to bottom, with the same name system, heavy ceremony and light ceremony. Today, even with respect, I dare not. I can't reduce my clothes and my title must be changed. I hope the note I wrote is not called crimson gauze robe, but clothes, which means there is a difference between respect and humility. "When discussing, the hand was replaced by Zhu Ming's suit, which was used by the company.

"Wu Deling", the servant is obedient. Embroidery, embroidery, mystery, peerless, traveling, entering the sacred crown, martial arts, arrogance, and so on.

With nine beads as the crown, the group is a tassel, the color is like its tassel, and the following tassels and tassels are the same. Guide to green ears and hairpins. Tsing Yi, Shang Yi, served for nine chapters. Five chapters are clothes, dragons, mountains, China insects, fire and Zong Yi are five grades. The fourth chapter is in petticoats, algae, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice. It's all crimson embroidery, all over the clothes and all over the bottom. White gauze single, shallow collar, embroidered crown, single blue collar. Green skirt and skirt. Belt, hook, big belt, all three products are put on. The plain belt is Zhu Li, all outside, and the top is green. Five-level belt, vertical outside and yellow inside. New Zealand is made up of green organizations.

Everything is consistent with the color of the dress. On the headdress, there are two chapters: mountain and fire, a chapter on embroidered headdress, and no chapter on Xuanmian. Jian, Pei, ribbon, red socks and red ribbon go first.

Crown, clothes in chapters 7 and 7 and 3, insects in China, fire, Zong Yi; The fourth chapter is in petticoats, algae, pink rice, flounder and glutinous rice. Like the crown, I took it for the second time.

Clothes in the Crown, Chapter 5, Chapter 5 and Chapter 3, Zong Yi, seaweed and powdered rice; The second chapter is petticoats, Fu and Fu.

Yu Tong? Crown, the third product is served.

Embroidered headdress, four ears, three chapters, one chapter in clothes, pink rice; The second chapter is about petticoats, flounder and haze. I wear the same crown, and the fourth product is on the table.