British fashion designer, the "mother of punk" in fashion. Born into a worker's family in the north of England. She used to be an outstanding figure in punk movement, and her achievements should be attributed to the inspiration and guidance of her second husband, Malcolm McLovin, the founder and agent of the famous British rock band "Sex Gunmen". She gave rock and roll a typical appearance, such as T-shirts, zippers, pornographic slogans, metal chains and so on. , has been affecting today. Together with McLovin, she opened the first clothing store in King's Road, London, called "Rock", which specializes in clothes worn by street teenagers. Later, their shop was renamed several times to make clothes for rock musicians and punk. Creation and rebellion have always been the center of her life. Because of her promotion, punk culture had a revolutionary influence on high fashion. Because she gave a great blow to French traditional high fashion in a completely negative and rude way, and also won a place for British fashion in the international fashion world, the Queen of England awarded her a gold medal. She will always be a revolutionary fashion designer. For many years, he has always been regarded as an alternative in the clothing industry, with imaginative and bold ideas. Her style has been integrated into the mainstream design concepts: asymmetric T-shirts, cut-out raw-edge fabrics, underwear worn outside, tight-fitting clothes under tops, mini Cligny skirts, tight-fitting long skirts, waist-tied trousers, clogs and diagonal high heels. She has also influenced several generations of designers. She also designed clothes for the movie Leaving Las Vegas and operas Three Penny and Village.
Vivienne westwood is a leading figure in contemporary British clothing industry. She rose in the late 1960s. She opened an avant-garde clothing store and presented a scepter against the system, which attracted the attention of the world. Britain always gives people two extreme impressions: one is the royal image of Britain, which is one-sided; At the other end is a punk with lively body language, with colorful rebellious clothes and hairstyles. Westwood is an unorthodox extreme. She can grasp the spirit of the times and integrate rebellious elements into her works. Her design style has become a representative of Britain, just like the Beatles' music, miniskirts and street fashion. Affectionate affectation, casual appearance, bloody T-shirts and fake bloomers, not bound by tradition, and the attitude of absolute resistance to the end are all important dramas when vivienne westwood interprets his personal brand, which makes Avian westwood the ultimate representative of avant-garde, such as S& etc. M transformed and flavored clothes, T-shirts printed with spiritual slogans, and LOOK torn pirate clothes. VivienneWestwood also made a clear evaluation of rock punk in the 1970s and neo-romanticism in the 1980s.
Even if the words "decadent", "abnormal" and "deviant" are used to describe westwood's clothes, it is no exaggeration. Because her clothes with different lengths, strange shapes and no rules really surprised the western fashion world, people can not compliment her masterpiece, but they can not but be shocked by her unique design ideas. No matter how to praise or criticize westwood's design, people have to admit that she is rare. The contribution of eccentric design ideas to today's clothing industry. Her design caters to the fashionable young people in 1980s, especially the young "punk" and "punk" in London, which makes westwood's clothing have world influence. Hayford commented: "She is the most influential designer in Britain in recent ten years, and her design concept has fundamentally changed our clothing concept." Although her design has not become the dominant fashion trend in Paris, her influence is mainly in concept. Her design concept not only greatly impacted the traditional fashion industry, but also represented the radical younger generation. In a sense, just like mary quant in the 1960s, she gave this fashion industry a violent impact.
Westwood comes from the south of England. She was born in 194 1 a small place called dinster village. Her father works in the mechanical workshop of an ice cream factory. Although she is not rich, her childhood is happy. Westwood is smart and excellent at school, and won many scholarships in middle school. Later, her parents saved money and donated it to the post office in the southern town of Harrow. So she moved her family to the south. Later, she recalled her thoughts and said that when I went to Harrow Art School, it was still the idea of working class. She studied in Harrow Art School for a semester, majoring in gold and silver jewelry design. At that time, she dreamed of becoming a teacher. In order to enter a normal university, she first went to Kodak factory to earn money, and then went to school as a teacher. At that time, she thought, "I can be a teacher and draw at the same time."
Soon, she got married and gave birth to her son Benjamin. She likes painting, but she doesn't like doing housework. Finally, she divorced her husband. She thinks her husband is lazy. Westwood has never been the kind of person who goes step by step. As a teacher, she is not the kind of person that the headmaster likes. Although the students like her very much, she is not good at getting along with her colleagues. So she must design and make jewelry. Sold it on Portobello Street. Through her younger brother, she got to know malm McClellan, who had an important influence on her success. They are like two drifting, swaying and crazy currents. Once they meet, there will be strong lightning, and the same interest will finally bring them together. McClellan became her mentor and partner, and westwood followed him in believing in anarchy.
1970, westwood borrowed 100 from his mother, and McClellan opened a shop at No.430, King's Road, London, followed by a garage called Eden. At first, they sold records of rock music and rolling stone music in the 1950s. But westwood's interest was in fashion design, and soon her first clothing series came out, inspired by the rebellious spirit of western urban youth. People call it "Teddy Buddy" style, which has won the attention of the society. Her design completely gets rid of the traditional dress style and combines all kinds of unimaginable materials and ways in an almost rude way. It is this grotesque and barren form that has won the applause of decadent young people in the West.
Westwood's design conception is the most absurd, bizarre and original in the field of clothing. In the late 1970s, leather and rubber were used in her designs to make grotesque fashions, which expanded like the drums of gyro pants. A huge felt hat that must be wrapped in cloth first; T-shirts made of black leather; Pirate-style crepe clothes, beautiful big trademarks. Even the most expensive clothes are deliberately torn into holes or made into "parachuting clothes" with torn strips. In the early 1980 s, a bold approach was to wear underwear outside, even bras outside the coat, and women's underwear and pants outside the skirt. She threatened to reveal all the secrets of her family. Her crazy ideas often make foreign tourists feel creepy. She can even make the sleeves one long and one short, four feet long, tear them into pieces, piece together incongruous colors, and deliberately grab the rough sewing thread. In short, these have become her design methods.
Westwood's clothing is exactly what she pursues, violently opposing the social politics at that time and resisting the traditional stylized clothing. Her clothes often make the wearer look like a group of victims after the massacre, but also like a martyr who is happy and satisfied in spirit. Therefore, westwood is regarded as the most creative and courageous designer in London, and her leading idea is "to hell with tradition"! Her crazy ideas are also reflected in the ever-changing store name. 197 1 year, the name of the store is "Let it swing!" 1972 was changed to "Let's go, we are too happy"; Then she changed it to "juvenile death" and 1974 changed it to "sexy" and started to do rubber and various raw materials business for "punk". 1977, she changed it to "rebellion". She said, "Our interest is to consider rebellion, and we want to annoy the British ..."
1980, the famous Armageddon store was born. Armageddon has become a famous fashion shop in the world today because it is completely opposite to French fashion shops. Because everything in her shop is ridiculous, with winding stairs, clocks walking backwards and strange clothes. The first series of "doomsday" is called "pirates"
1982, her second shop, Nostalgia in the Mud, opened, which sells all kinds of oils and colorful cosmetics that punk youth like to use to keep their hair upright. Westwood's exotic clothes inspired street punks, especially "punks" and "tribesmen" in King's Road and hammersmith Palace.
With the "punk" going to the world, westwood's popularity is getting higher and higher. 1983 In the spring, westwood held its first fashion show in Paris. The series she launched is called "Witch", a set of modern clothes that show the belly. There are irregular colored fabrics, rough stitches, messy rags and various patches here, which is an unprecedented "fashion".
Westwood's main admirer is the youth school which is popular in the west in recent years. They are dissatisfied with the status quo, oppose the government and tradition, and vent their extreme dissatisfaction, decadence and ridicule to society in their clothes and manners. Punk, which prevailed in the 1980s, was just an alternative youth school in clothing, just like hippies and Teddy Brothers in those days, and it was a registered trademark of punk. Both sides are completely shaved, and a lock of short hair stands on the top of the head. Westwood designed many hair dyes, hair conditioners and styling agents for them. There are also strange makeup pigments, cyan, green and gold, applied to lips and cheeks. The clothes are worse. Westwood's clothing just reflects and represents the needs of this young cultural layer. They express their political inclinations with strange clothes and unusual hairstyles. At this point, the motives of modern people are no different from those of primitive people. In this regard, westwood said, "Clothing is a way to express everyone. In 198 1-82, her so-called neo-romantic style is a style. " "These clothes are for original exploration," she said. "I want to find romance in my own way. "She threw out a frilly pirate shirt, and the sweater was wrapped in satin underwear to wear outside Buffalo women's clothing, which conveyed her unconventional design concept.
1985, while masculine wide-shouldered women's dresses were popular in the world, a "new" skirt appeared on the hangers in London market, that is, the19th century arched shoulder skirt introduced by westwood. It seems that this deformed fashion is hard to win people's welcome, especially today when people are pursuing nature and bodybuilding. However, after London Fashion Week in 10, this hoop skirt filled the window for three months. Westwood is the advocate of this skirt. Of course, her spandex skirt or bubble skirt is wearing jeans. She called this skirt "another classical style" or "the harmonious mood of the new era". She said, "I never liked clothes with big shoulders. This is what Mugler brought. " She added, "Women." I don't understand why people should be made asexual. "In fact, her own designs are often capricious. Westwood won the favor of modern youth with her absurdity, exaggeration and breaking her word, and she herself became the idol of punk youth.
Since she exhibited her works in London from 65438 to 0972, she has established her own unconventional clothing style. In the past three years, she has performed five times in Paris, and her works have appeared in Italy, Sweden, Norway, Belgium, the Netherlands, France and Japan. In Japan, she has many followers and uses the same absurd method to design clothes that are either too tight or too loose. She said proudly, "Someone flattered me. It was my torn, oversized and disfigured design that inspired the Japanese. In the early 1970s, they came to England with their cameras on their backs. Japan, like Britain, is an island culture, and its development cannot but depend on other cultures. "
The style created by "The End of the World" should be said to be mainly based on their anarchist views. Westwood and McClellan supported various youth rebel schools, which in turn became the source of inspiration for their designs. They printed the declaration on T-shirts. "Only anarchy is the most beautiful." During their common career, westwood was a practical designer who designed and produced. McClellan is more of an "ideology" and "writing" design and creation. This gentle and seemingly kind man, with lovely red curly hair, is a firm anarchist. He is the founder of the British swing band "Sex Gunmen", and his fanaticism undoubtedly infected and supported westwood. McClellan was arrested in a demonstration against the Vietnam War. Westwood volunteered to go to jail. They claimed to expose the depravity and hypocrisy of our society. Westwood said, "We shocked our culture and all the superstitions. We are trying to find our true freedom. "
How to evaluate westwood's design? The evaluation of her creation is unclear or impatient. She has the creative passion of an artist, but she lacks the sober mind of a politician. But as she firmly believes, culture reflects society, fashion is an inevitable part of social culture, and her creation represents the so-called "subculture group" in modern society. This is her creative thought based on political anarchism and artistic anti-traditional spirit. In the 1980s, she took "punk" as the palette and created clothes that some modern young people loved, so she was once called "the mother of punk". Westwood's whimsy always pops up at the first moment, which is usually manifested in twisted stitches, asymmetrical tailoring, unfinished hem and incongruous colors. Her goal is clear: to challenge the traditional idols of fashion. Although she often mentions Chanel, Vioni and Armani with great reverence, her creative achievements run counter to them. She once called traditional women's designer L Ashley the worst designer. "She dresses up women as children, like poor people or fools hiding in the bedroom."
History has always been written by people who are dissatisfied with history. It is not uncommon to change the status quo and oppose traditional clothing in the history of clothing in the 20th century. But like her, she totally denies the traditional high fashion and attacks the clothing aesthetics in an anti-traditional and rude way. There is no doubt that she was unique in the 1980 s, and her influence could not spread to the fashion world. +0982, The Observer, a British magazine, called westwood "the queen of British kingship". The article said that the world could not deny her influence. From "The End of the World" to the Paris stage, as a pioneer warrior and the mother of modern culture, her creative thinking inspired many modern designers, and she broke the shackles for them and impacted the so-called "suffocating fashion salon".
Society is such a strange combination. Westwood and punk despised traditional fashion and abandoned traditional beauty, but this anti-fashion and anti-trend style became a new fashion. If westwood's design is often too extreme, other designers have created a new fashion design way by downplaying her radical way.
Vivienne Westwood
brief introduction
On April 8th, vivienne westwood was born into an English worker's family. Her real name was vivienne Isabel Swire. When she was young, she married Derek John Westwood and gave birth to a baby boy, but she couldn't stand the boring housewife life and decided to divorce.
197 1, I met McClaren, who is engaged in a band, and became interested in fashion, designing stage costumes for her boyfriend McClaren.
1972 cooperated with mclaren to open the first boutique named "Let it Rock".
1974 was renamed as "sex", and 1976 was renamed as "agitator". Most of the leather clothes sold in shops were bold and erotic, so they were deeply loved by heavy metal supporters at that time.
1989 was selected as one of the top six designers of the year by Women's Daily, a daily newspaper covering the clothing industry.
1990 and 199 1 year, she became the British designer of the year, and has since established VivienneWestwood's master position.
Classic works
The most admirable thing about Vivian's design is that she draws materials from traditional historical costumes and transforms them into modern design techniques. She constantly deduces the characteristics of 17 and 18 century traditional costumes, and successfully brings street fashion into the fashion field with special methods. And she brought the charm of Scottish plaid to the extreme and pushed the charm of Britain to the highest point. Looking for creative elements from tradition will once again become a brand-new fashion product, just like outdated designs such as girdle, platform high heels and classic Scottish plaid, which is undoubtedly vivienne westwood's classic works.
Brand awareness
The crown, planet and skull used by vivienne westwood, the godmother of punk, appear on brooches, bracelets and necklaces with higher colors, adding a lot of fashionable and handsome appearance to Leng Yan.
Style characteristic
In the early 1980s, Vivian's design style began to break away from strong social consciousness and political criticism, and began to pay attention to tailoring and material application. In the early 1980s, Vivian began to explore classical and British traditional and romantic pirate styles, such as multi-wave skirts, lotus leaf piping, belt buckle pirate hats and boots. In 1990s, Vivian's irregular tailoring, exaggerated and complicated structure, contrast and collocation of different materials and colors have become Vivian's unique style.
Comics; comedian
In ai yazawa's cartoon Nana, the clothes and jewelry of the heroine Oosaki Nana belong to vivienne westwood.