During the shaping period of 3 to 4 years after planting, winter pruning is mainly short pruning, combined with eye injuries to promote strong and long branches, and weak branches can be slowed down to enhance growth; July to September The opening angle of the vigorously growing new shoots is to pull or tie the branches. The specific method is:

In the year of planting, set the stem height to 100 cm. After germination, wipe out all the sprouts below 40 cm from the ground on the main stem. From July to September, you can sprout seeds on the central stem or side branches. The long new shoots are pulled into an angle of 70°.

When pruning in the second year of winter, when the center trunk extends branches to more than 50 cm, 4 to 6 full buds can be left in short sections, and 3 to 6 buds under the cut can be damaged; the length of the extended branches is 30 cm. Only the terminal buds are cut off when they are ~50 cm in height; extension branches shorter than 30 cm are not required to be pruned. Among the remaining annual branches on the center trunk, 2 to 3 buds are cut short for those above 50 cm and cultivated into branch bases; below 50 cm If not pruned, use the terminal buds to grow into strong branches. From July to September, the branches can be pulled to an angle of 70° for the long new shoots growing on the sides of the central trunk or on the base axis of the branch group.

During winter pruning in the third year, the pruning method of the central trunk extension branches is the same as in the second year. If the central trunk has reached the predetermined height, the direction of the first and second buds under the cutting edge of the central trunk extension branches should be selected. On both sides facing the rows, let the strong branches extend towards the rows. Among other year-long branches growing on the central trunk and long branches on the basal axis, if the number of branches with a length of more than 100 cm reaches 10, you can shorten the central trunk to extend the branches, and then shorten 1 to 2 strong branches. (Leave 1 to 2 buds) and let the rest grow. If there are only 6 to 9 long branches with a length of more than 100 cm, the number of short-cut and strong branches can be slightly more, and the ratio of short-cut and long-cut branches can be 1:1 or 1:2. The short-cut part can be selected where the long-growing branch group is longer or the flowering branch group is more concentrated. From July to September, the two strong long branches at the tip of the central trunk can be bent and pulled in opposite directions to form a "reverse bow shape", and tied and fixed at their intersections with straw ropes, and the other long new shoots can be pulled into a 70° angle.

At this point, the single-layer high-open heart shape has been basically completed. From then on, in 6 to 7 years, the crown will continue to expand, the number of branches will increase, and it will gradually enter the fruiting period. During this period, winter pruning is still mainly based on long branches, and only the excessive growth and thin branch groups are controlled and adjusted to varying degrees. However, special attention should be paid to preventing the long branches at the top of the crown from sprouting upright and leggy branches, so as to avoid the growth of branches below. The growth potential of the medium and small branch groups on the group becomes weak and even causes them to die.